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Server Moneys Needed!

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807 No. 807 ID: 708727 Stickied hide watch quickreply [Reply] [First 100 posts] [Last 50 posts]
Every post must have an image, and every image must be your personal gear. Battle belts, plate carriers, hell, even range bags.

Show us whatcha got.
401 posts and 399 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 17920 ID: 86395b
File 148364594934.jpg - (1.33MB , 2211x1242 , DSC04037.jpg )
17920
man, fuck winter sometimes
>> No. 17929 ID: 1d84a5
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17929


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17930 No. 17930 ID: 47660b hide watch quickreply [Reply]
Snek


File 148114058777.jpg - (475.48KB , 816x1056 , Black Black and other caffeine gum.jpg )
17855 No. 17855 ID: eefa98 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
Caffeine gum, mints, candy, bars, supplements...
Has anyone tried this stuff, or do you just keep it simple with caffeinated drinks like coffee, tea, and Mountain Dew?
Which are the best for the least amount of money?
I used Xylish and Black Black caffeine gum from Japan, but I discovered a stick only contains 5mg of caffeine. Jolt gum contains 45mg of caffeine per piece, plus guarana & ginseng - and two pieces of the gum amounts to the same caffeine as an average cup of coffee.

Examining the website http://www.caffeineinformer.com/caffeine-in-candy it seems the most caffeine in a gum is LiveWire Energy Chews, small 6 gram chews available in several flavors and varieties with 90 to 120mg of caffeine per chew. Military Energy Gum (formerly Stay Alert Gum) is a highly caffeinated chewing gum containing 100mg of caffeine per piece. It is marketed to the US Military but is also available to the general public. Amazon sells 24-pack boxes (5 pieces per pack or 120 pieces total) for $25 to $28.
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>> No. 17881 ID: c5dfe3
File 148132089211.jpg - (1.77MB , 2560x1920 , caffeine Wired Waffles 200mg of caffeine per servi.jpg )
17881
Back to caffeine stuff.
Here's a package of Wired Waffles, containing 200mg of caffeine per serving.
>> No. 17889 ID: 5a1acb
File 148143944176.jpg - (153.91KB , 478x478 , 1aday.jpg )
17889
I used to be big into supplements since I knew my regular diet was pretty lacking. You can usually find some amount of caffeine in multi-vitamins that have words such as "active" or "energy" on the label.

Caffeine is also common in a lot of "pre-workout" supplements.

From my experience Red Bull is probably my favorite for staying up days at a time on harmfully low amounts of sleep.

You might also pay attention to the Vitamin B# content of these, as this is also used to give short term energy. You'll typically find large amount of B vitamins in most energy boosters these days.

I've never used to supplements explicitly for their caffeine content. After noticing the huge amount of B vitamins, in the bottle I got from the gym. I'll try and post a pic later, but I think it had upwards of 1000% of the daily value of 6 and 12, maybe more. I will take half of one when if I feel like crashing. The result usually gets me through the 2nd half of my day, often along with more coffee.

I've heard lack of sleep is one of the most common problems in America, and I'm guessing, a lot of the modern world.
>> No. 17926 ID: f11f4d
>>17855
I actually use a lot of the MEG gum/pills, since coffee fucks my stomach.

If you want the best price/caffeine ratio, just get pills. But the gum is great to have for driving. I can get really tired fairly suddenly while driving. Not like a narcoleptic episode, but more like head nodding and starting to wander in my lane. The gum is a great way to instantly restore my ability to focus and get to where I'm going when the only other alternative would be to pull over somewhere and close my eyes for 30-45min. It's also great to have on hand for meetings and shit. Just be aware about dose, and how late you take it and all that. I suspect that caffeine effects people differently, as I could chew a piece right before bed and be fine, but some people it would destroy their night.

The MEG gum has fairly haphazard flavor quality control. So expect to get the occasional "cinna-mint" piece from them switching production using the same equipment or something.
>> No. 17927 ID: 0064e9
File 148401142676.jpg - (267.26KB , 1600x1200 , caffeine STAY ALERT Military Caffeine Energy Gum 1.jpg )
17927
>>17926
The Military Energy Gum (MEG) spearmint flavor tastes... REVOLTING! After a minute or so, the taste gets even worse. The cinnamon flavor is not so bad, but still horrible. This is gum; those cretins can make it taste great. Did they make it taste like garbage so people would not chew up a lot and overdose on caffeine? You really have to chew it with regular gum to make it palatable. Did I get bad batches?

Black-Black caffeine gum from Japan has a strong menthol and peppermint taste (but only 5 mg per piece). It taste like chewing an Altoids. It actually clears your sinuses! As I stated before, I used it and Xylish to stay awake in boring classes and in long road trips. Keep chewing a fresh stick or piece of gum every hour when the effects start to wane.

Another good tip for staying awake for long road trips is to listen to radio plays, like Dragnet (1949-1957 377 episodes), audio books, radio Shakespeare plays, or mystery dramas (but they have to be interesting to you to keep your attention). You have to pay attention to what is being said and described, but you are not visually distracted in doing this.
>> No. 17928 ID: f11f4d
>>17927
Dunno. I always hate spearimint no matter what it is so I've never tried it. That said, the flavor quality control is hilariously bad with this gum. In addition to the flavor mixing I mentioned (which should only show up in 1-2 packs out of a box), the strength of the flavor can vary quite a lot.
I get the blue "normal mint" is basically mint+the bitterness from concentrated caffeine. I actually like the bitterness.

Funny you mention Black-Black, I actually ordered some a week ago and it's headed my way. It's my absolute favorite gum.


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17825 No. 17825 ID: 6ef9f1 hide watch quickreply [Reply]
Anyone have any idea who makes this jacket/knows of any similar products?
>> No. 17826 ID: 044fd0
Looks like something Mil-Tec would make.
>> No. 17827 ID: 6e9743
File 148100503230.jpg - (488.25KB , 1280x853 , German uniform NVA belt buckle - Feldkoppel der Na.jpg )
17827
The brown lines resemble East German camouflage.
Strichmuster (line pattern) is a very simple pattern incorporating long, slender brown rain straits on a light greyish-green background. http://camopedia.org/index.php?title=East_Germany
- East German NVA belt buckle - Feldkoppel der Nationalen Volksarmee der DDR.
>> No. 17922 ID: 1a2172
I could have sworn I saw a pattern very similar to this on a jacket on either cabelas site or basspro.

Check those places. I almost bought it, I thought it looked very similar to the German rain camp or whatever it is.
>> No. 17925 ID: bd9939
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17925
>>17922
Cabela's "Outfitter" camo maybe? henceforth referred to as outfitterflage. Lacks the East German style rain line thingies, but similar concept.


Their space space rain jackets are pretty bitchin for their purpose if you can get them on sale or ebay bee tee dubs. I wish they made them in gray or brown or something. I had to get one in their dorky new "Octane" camo to get it cheap.


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17903 No. 17903 ID: da89f3 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
Hello there, I have kind of an awkward backpack and I'm worried about a lamp on the outside of it getting broken

Looking for advice on exercising caution so as to not break the fragile lamp on this awkward backpack

..... ty operator chan
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>> No. 17909 ID: 4008e1
Why the fuck are you lugging a full-size lantern around in the first place? Genuinely curious.

Oh, and along with battery powered options, there's a model I've had my eye on which uses special candles, and seems well-received.
>> No. 17910 ID: 4008e1
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17910
Marginally related.
>> No. 17916 ID: 3aa6db
I laughed when I read this OP. You just need to be careful about the lamp.

Also I liked the advice above about getting a more mil-spec lamp.

Or get a peli-case/similar, but I imagine that's not ideal.
>> No. 17923 ID: 226e7c
Lamps are great for anywhere you need to camp up and need to illuminate a large area. My $25 lamp from bass pro has a battery runtime of something insane like 150hrs. I've had it for years and haven't needed to change the batteries once.

IMO that's difficult to keep on your pack. I would vote for running it on the molle on the back, keep it real fucking tight so it doesn't move and make sure your bag aint going to roll on it when you put it down. You'll have a longer pack but it's better for the back than off-setting the weight, and if you turn it on while walking at night (IF Ever, even) it could illuminate the area pretty well.

I wouldn't recommend carrying one in a BOB kit tho
>> No. 17924 ID: 9723b1
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17924
>Rule 12: Backpacks should not be wider than a door frame, or thicker than a door frame width minus your body thickness.
Your shit's all fucked up, stow it properly.


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16816 No. 16816 ID: 2ed649 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
Getting real tired of my rucksack. I have a MOLLE ruck with the standard frame, and that shit keeps fucking with me after a while.

I've been thinking of getting another pack. A lot of guys, I've seen with ALICE packs, with the standard frame. It seems to work for them, and most of them are old-timers, so I pay attention to their opinions a bit more.

However, I've been looking at the 1606 frame. I have a spare MOLLE ruck that I'm able to modify to my heart's content. Anyone have experience with this? I know it says that it isn't the best frame for it, but I assume it's because the MOLLE ruck lacks the frame pocket at the top. I can always sew one in, or not, depending on how it works.

Or should I simply get an ALICE? In either case, I'd rather not have the metal frame. It looks pretty uncomfortable.
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>> No. 16818 ID: 2ed649
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16818
>>16817
I can't really use the commercial stuff. It's not really allowed, you see.

I have seen one guy with a mystery ranch ruck, but I'm not rich, so I'm trying to just improve what I have.

I was thinking of a setup similar to pic related or simply using the frame on my other rucksack.
>> No. 16820 ID: bd9939
File 14542014836.jpg - (36.26KB , 423x562 , somedudeshellcat.jpg )
16820
Never tried the plastic frames, but I once built one of those "hellcat" alice packs using the "molle II" ruck kidney pad and shoulder straps. It still sucked, but it was much, much nicer than the original ALICE equipment, and worked as okayish as can be expected with a plate carrier. Still they're nothing but a money pit with little to no payoff.

Got the old 3 color desert stuff off of ebay for super cheap and dyed it. Came out kind of a blueish green, but it worked fine.

Seriously though, if you can save pennies and swing for a used/sale price Mystery Ranch, Kuiu, Kifaru, Hill People Gear etc. They will last for a long, long time and your body will thank you.
>> No. 16821 ID: 2ed649
>>16820
I'll probably save up for something like that for now, I'll try this frame as an improvement. Planning to keep the kidney belt and straps either way, but the ALICE looks like it takes too much work. I could get a MALICE pack, but at that point, I might just buy a high-quality rucksack.
>> No. 17893 ID: f36974
>>16820
you gotta really wrestle with alice packs to make em' fit right

you usually are gonna have to tighten the waist belt a little higher than normal than most packs

packing your gear correctly in an alice pack is absolutely essential

they can't handle much past 45 lbs unless you are packing them really really well

when you first put the alice pack on, tighten the shoulders and loosen the waist belt. Make sure the waist belt is sitting on top of your kidneys and hips. Then tighten the waist belt. Then loosen the shoulders so the frame goes near vertical. Keep playing with it that way until you feel the best distribution. Alice packs aren't gonna be like regular hiking packs, and their weight distribution (most people like 90% on hips 10% on shoulds or 80/20%) is gonna be 75/25% or maybe less

great for hunting in cold weather though cause no zippers but they aren't very waterproof
>> No. 17921 ID: 622449
>>16817
> not adapting molle II straps to your ALICE


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17917 No. 17917 ID: 854024 hide watch quickreply [Reply]
Dear Operators,

stupid fucking question to those who might have hands-on experience:

will this dropleg magazine panel: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Eagle-Industries-UMP-3-Mag-Drop-Leg-Black-Duty-Pouch-SWAT-Police-FBI-LE-SMG-/152164899367?hash=item236dbc1a27:g:cD0AAOSwl-FXNMrh

hold MP5 magazines SECURELY? or due to larger size of UMP45 magazines the MP5 mags might just slip out under the loose flap (and most likely will)?
>> No. 17919 ID: 5fdcaa
I own the Eagle industries MP5 .40 3 mag drop leg pouch, it does hold the 9mm 33rd
Glock magazines securely.


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17882 No. 17882 ID: a28495 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
Ok,

For practical purposes as a private citizen, would it be worth paying the extra money for Ceramic Level III armor or to get the Lightweight AR500 Level III+ with Pacxon double-coat? A lot of people bitch about frag/spalling but I've yet to see a single documented instance where AR500 with PaxCon base coat plus build up failed to contain fragmentation.
4 posts omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 17892 ID: bd9939
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17892
If you're uncomfortable with it, I totally get it and appreciate your focus of more realistic threat rounds (m193,m855,m855a1 and m80 ball vs fucking AP .30-06). But most destructive testing on quality level IV plates (highcom, midwest armor, paraclete, etc) ends up with them taking multiple hits of 5.56 and 7.62 with no penetration and survivable back face deformation. Keep in mind why you're buying these things. Get something you are actually going to be able to keep on all day if needed. You are legitimately looking at lugging around 18+ pounds of steel while still having only front and back torso protection. My plates are "only" 13ish pounds and I still hate them. If you think you can deal, then cool beans.

I would and did choose to save weight buy going with still heavy 6.3 pound level IV highcom guardians for around $300. At the time I was going to order some spartan armor steel which is supposed to be superior to AR500, but midwest armor had a sale. Following the "must have" trend on arfcom, I bought a retarded Shellback Banshee carrier and suffered practicing in that monstrosity for a couple years before realizing I had equipped myself wrong as a civilian (or as anyone, because that is a terrible plate carrier simply due to the shoulder design). I realized I was far better off with a much lower profile loadout that was concealable under an overshirt in a pinch, but scaleable to be able to hold it's own when needed at least in conjunction with a supplementary chest rig or direct to armor platform. After some research I settled on a Ferro Concepts Slickster from the great white north and it is absolutely perfect for my needs. Highly recommend.

That being said, if I were starting over again, I would save every penny to buy lighter "3+" manufacturer rated plates. I have been equipping my wife with the most cutting edge, but simplified shit I can afford from gear to weapon so that she'll actually be able and willing to practice with it, keep up with me and maybe even back me up a little bit. I bought her some 4.5 pound target man branded ceramic spectra hybrids and they're absolutely amazing. Trying them out for myself I felt like Ned Flanders wearing nothing at all. I'll be saving a few months here to get my own set and delegate my level IV's as a vehicle set.

You see plates identical in specs to these under a few names including Grey Ghost Gear, but I believe they are just rebrands from one armor manufacturer. This was the cheapest set I could find that wasn't coming from a sketch looking place.
https://www.spartanarmorsystems.com/level-iii-medium-9-25-x-12-5-ceramic-spectra-lightweight-advanced-set-of-two/


The practice of wearing armor only waned with the proliferation of firearms
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>> No. 17911 ID: 83051c
I've got some SAPI plates I picked up from a surplus store outside JBLM a few years ago I've been meaning to replace and suppliment with some soft stuff. Been looking at these and looks like it might be what you're looking for as well.

http://www.bulletproofme.com/RP-Level-3-PLUS-Ceramic.html
>> No. 17913 ID: bd9939
File 148255226347.jpg - (135.60KB , 823x971 , polish_hussar_v2_by_mynameisbyron-d54ugck.jpg )
17913
>>17911
Proceed with caution with those. I desperately wanted them to be good because they're almost half the cost of competitive weight/rating, but none of this "independently lab verified" stuff has ever actually been shown on those particular plates, only on the crappy steel stuff. They're stuff is not listed on the NIJ website either. In fact I can't even find any "youtube testing" they make fun of on those actual plates.

A lot of stuff the owner says is gibberish and raises a few flags.
>> No. 17914 ID: 6ca38e
>>17913
If you contacted Armour Wear, the company that supplies Bulletproofme with those particular plates, you could have the certification information sent to you. But yeah, only their IIIA stuff is listed on the NIJ compliance site. Might be because that's the only product they've submitted for any government contracts or something? I dunno. But if you got the information, you could find out what lab did the testing and make a call based on that.

Bulletproofme is one of the oldest sites on the internet that has sold armor to civis, though. I have to imagine that they can't have stayed in business so long while making false claims as to the proofing of their products.

In any case, you make a good point. Researching what you plan to buy is never a bad move.
>> No. 17915 ID: 0b17af
Dude just go on eBay and pick up some plates. I just bought 4 ceramic plates for $330 shipped. Shop around for a while. You might be surprised at what you find on there.


File 144299716091.jpg - (119.88KB , 900x1600 , 20150922_172002.jpg )
16251 No. 16251 ID: 7443a9 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
Sup guys,

So one of the things I like to do is about once or twice a year is buy myself something nice...something pricey. I decided that this year is would be a watch. What I wanted was a basic manually wound mechanical watch. I spent a couple of months researching and finally decided on buying a Weiss Watch Co. Field Watch. I was going go with the slightly cheaper Hamilton field watch that fit the same criteria but I decided I wanted to help out the small American business more and I liked the Weiss's dial better.

The good:
Higher quality finish than I was expecting. Most pics online are of his first pieces and while he hasn't changed anything major in the design he has come a LONG way in the finishing of the watch.
The sapphire front and back. Not only are they super scratch resistant but being able to see the mechanism is pretty cool.
The weight is also something to comment on. For the size of this watch (42mm) it is light on my wrist.
Lastly while it comes close it is not too big for me to wear like most 42mm watches.

The bad:
No hacking seconds. I'm not sure you can actually call this a real field watch without that capability. On a TAC mission you HAVE to be within +/- 30seconds of your L-Hour or you can get yourself or other people killed. Not that we use wrist watches for timing that nowadays but I would have liked to actually do a time hack next brief I was in for the lulz. I guess for most people today it's a non issue but really it would be nice for historical accuracy.

The neutral:
He calls the movement the "Caliber 1001". I feel this is a bit dishonest. The movement is a ETA UNITAS 6497 that he disassembles, polishes, etches, and "modifies" (not that I can find what that entails anywhere. But I honestly don't care enough to ask) before reassembling & regulating. I think he should hold off on the naming before he reaches his stated goal of making his own movements.
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>> No. 17390 ID: 51e25e
File 146338713679.jpg - (3.40MB , 4000x2992 , IMG_20160513_000831.jpg )
17390
It wears equally nice on a NATO as well. I plan on eventually getting the Sinn bracelet or a deployment clasp rubber.
>> No. 17418 ID: 818111
My Stocker and Yale "mickey mouse" watch died.

Had it since tech. Who can get it working? Tritium is long dead, if that matters.
>> No. 17422 ID: bec165
>>17418

Any competent watch maker should be able to help you out.
>> No. 17423 ID: f87148
>>17388

Fuck me, I could look at automatics' asses all damn day.

I just got a Seiko 5 about six months ago, and for ~$70, I couldn't be happier. I'll post photos when I get a halfway decent camera.
>> No. 17912 ID: 1d4d8c
>>16251
What band is that?


File 148169118440.jpg - (644.52KB , 2188x1877 , o2524875.jpg )
17894 No. 17894 ID: 4c768d hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
Any ideas what he has attached to his under barrel?
3 posts and 1 image omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 17898 ID: c5dfe3
File 14817170486.jpg - (685.78KB , 2103x2650 , US XM-2 Personnel Detector detects urine & swe.jpg )
17898
The first version of the People Sniffer was the XM-2 personnel detector man-pack (also known as the E63 man-pack personnel detector). The XM-2 consisted of a backpack-mounted sensor, coupled with an air intake tube mounted on the end of a M16 rifle. Deployed during 1967, reports are that the XM-2 was often a bit too sensitive, and would only pick up the sweat odors of its user. This, coupled with the rather loud “ticka-ticka-ticka” noise that sensor made while in use rather gave the whole game away. Understandably, troops were uncomfortable carrying a heavy noisemaker into an ambush zone. So the XM-2 man-portable system gave way to the much more powerful XM-3 airborne platform, normally mounted on a helicopter. The XM-3 delivered much better results, although the Viet Cong eventually learned ways to deceive the device’s ability to detect sweat, urine and campfire smoke.

If you can find an XM-2 “personnel detector” out there somewhere, it will make a great accessory for your vintage M16A1 rifle—granted you can find one of those.
>> No. 17899 ID: c5dfe3
  U.S. soldier with E63 personnel detector, receives maintenance assistance from another soldier in the field. https://youtu.be/ZdHyKPTHgVs

A US Army 1st Air Cavalry Division soldier equipped with an E63 personnel detector manpack, advances through a jungle area during training in Ankhe, South Vietnam. He signals to his buddy, that his E63 is malfunctioning. He assumes an alert defensive posture, as his buddy opens the manpack and checks its internal components. Interior view of the E63 shows air transport fan and chemicals. Location: Ankhe South Vietnam. Date: February 1, 1967.
>> No. 17900 ID: c5dfe3
  US Army 1st Air Cavalry Division soldier with an E63 personnel detector, in Ankhe, South Vietnam. https://youtu.be/4kGpf9W5s3c

A US 1st Air Cavalry Division soldier equipped with an E63 (XM-2) personnel detector manpack. The E63 intake tube is mounted to the barrel of his M-16 rifle and a signal cord runs from the backpack to a speaker under his helmet. The soldier advances slowly through an area of heavy brush, during training in Ankhe, South Vietnam. Another soldier moves in the background. Location: Ankhe South Vietnam. Date: January 31, 1966.
>> No. 17901 ID: c5dfe3
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17901
I prefer this Vietnam War-era personnel detector.
>> No. 17902 ID: c5dfe3
File 148172657148.jpg - (1.23MB , 2849x2243 , US trooper dog in Vietnam.jpg )
17902
Inexpensive to produce, but the training costs are high.


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