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File 148186434639.jpg - (1.41MB , 2048x1536 , 20161215_140648.jpg )
17903 No. 17903 ID: da89f3 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
Hello there, I have kind of an awkward backpack and I'm worried about a lamp on the outside of it getting broken

Looking for advice on exercising caution so as to not break the fragile lamp on this awkward backpack

..... ty operator chan
6 posts and 2 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 17910 ID: 4008e1
File 148212075568.jpg - (60.34KB , 750x750 , 15078742_1179193105508263_529060592483507771_n.jpg )
17910
Marginally related.
>> No. 17916 ID: 3aa6db
I laughed when I read this OP. You just need to be careful about the lamp.

Also I liked the advice above about getting a more mil-spec lamp.

Or get a peli-case/similar, but I imagine that's not ideal.
>> No. 17923 ID: 226e7c
Lamps are great for anywhere you need to camp up and need to illuminate a large area. My $25 lamp from bass pro has a battery runtime of something insane like 150hrs. I've had it for years and haven't needed to change the batteries once.

IMO that's difficult to keep on your pack. I would vote for running it on the molle on the back, keep it real fucking tight so it doesn't move and make sure your bag aint going to roll on it when you put it down. You'll have a longer pack but it's better for the back than off-setting the weight, and if you turn it on while walking at night (IF Ever, even) it could illuminate the area pretty well.

I wouldn't recommend carrying one in a BOB kit tho
>> No. 17924 ID: 9723b1
File 148385741119.jpg - (76.95KB , 507x676 , 148186434639.jpg )
17924
>Rule 12: Backpacks should not be wider than a door frame, or thicker than a door frame width minus your body thickness.
Your shit's all fucked up, stow it properly.
>> No. 18002 ID: 5f423f
Stash it horizontally across the top of the small external pouch.


File 148114058777.jpg - (475.48KB , 816x1056 , Black Black and other caffeine gum.jpg )
17855 No. 17855 ID: eefa98 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
Caffeine gum, mints, candy, bars, supplements...
Has anyone tried this stuff, or do you just keep it simple with caffeinated drinks like coffee, tea, and Mountain Dew?
Which are the best for the least amount of money?
I used Xylish and Black Black caffeine gum from Japan, but I discovered a stick only contains 5mg of caffeine. Jolt gum contains 45mg of caffeine per piece, plus guarana & ginseng - and two pieces of the gum amounts to the same caffeine as an average cup of coffee.

Examining the website http://www.caffeineinformer.com/caffeine-in-candy it seems the most caffeine in a gum is LiveWire Energy Chews, small 6 gram chews available in several flavors and varieties with 90 to 120mg of caffeine per chew. Military Energy Gum (formerly Stay Alert Gum) is a highly caffeinated chewing gum containing 100mg of caffeine per piece. It is marketed to the US Military but is also available to the general public. Amazon sells 24-pack boxes (5 pieces per pack or 120 pieces total) for $25 to $28.
26 posts and 13 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 17926 ID: f11f4d
>>17855
I actually use a lot of the MEG gum/pills, since coffee fucks my stomach.

If you want the best price/caffeine ratio, just get pills. But the gum is great to have for driving. I can get really tired fairly suddenly while driving. Not like a narcoleptic episode, but more like head nodding and starting to wander in my lane. The gum is a great way to instantly restore my ability to focus and get to where I'm going when the only other alternative would be to pull over somewhere and close my eyes for 30-45min. It's also great to have on hand for meetings and shit. Just be aware about dose, and how late you take it and all that. I suspect that caffeine effects people differently, as I could chew a piece right before bed and be fine, but some people it would destroy their night.

The MEG gum has fairly haphazard flavor quality control. So expect to get the occasional "cinna-mint" piece from them switching production using the same equipment or something.
>> No. 17927 ID: 0064e9
File 148401142676.jpg - (267.26KB , 1600x1200 , caffeine STAY ALERT Military Caffeine Energy Gum 1.jpg )
17927
>>17926
The Military Energy Gum (MEG) spearmint flavor tastes... REVOLTING! After a minute or so, the taste gets even worse. The cinnamon flavor is not so bad, but still horrible. This is gum; those cretins can make it taste great. Did they make it taste like garbage so people would not chew up a lot and overdose on caffeine? You really have to chew it with regular gum to make it palatable. Did I get bad batches?

Black-Black caffeine gum from Japan has a strong menthol and peppermint taste (but only 5 mg per piece). It taste like chewing an Altoids. It actually clears your sinuses! As I stated before, I used it and Xylish to stay awake in boring classes and in long road trips. Keep chewing a fresh stick or piece of gum every hour when the effects start to wane.

Another good tip for staying awake for long road trips is to listen to radio plays, like Dragnet (1949-1957 377 episodes), audio books, radio Shakespeare plays, or mystery dramas (but they have to be interesting to you to keep your attention). You have to pay attention to what is being said and described, but you are not visually distracted in doing this.
>> No. 17928 ID: f11f4d
>>17927
Dunno. I always hate spearimint no matter what it is so I've never tried it. That said, the flavor quality control is hilariously bad with this gum. In addition to the flavor mixing I mentioned (which should only show up in 1-2 packs out of a box), the strength of the flavor can vary quite a lot.
I get the blue "normal mint" is basically mint+the bitterness from concentrated caffeine. I actually like the bitterness.

Funny you mention Black-Black, I actually ordered some a week ago and it's headed my way. It's my absolute favorite gum.
>> No. 17959 ID: 5a1acb
>>17927
The bitterness might be intentional as the bitter taste can be a bit of an eye opener for a lot of people. This is why my go to is Red Bull: it's got enough bitter to wake me up, without being terribly unpleasant.
>> No. 17983 ID: 9d8092
Cold for easy. Methylphenidate for medium. Dextroamphetamine to make hard/grueling easy.


File 14862263259.jpg - (68.58KB , 676x676 , Coleman-1-Mantle-Kerosene-Lantern.jpg )
17951 No. 17951 ID: d6be59 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
liquid fuel is best innawoods/survival fuel.
Anyone who relies on propane or canisters for fuel is a damn casual.

I run my shit off kerosene because it has longest lifespan of liquid fuels. Also because I can get it as Jet-A from a local airport for $3.7 a gallon.

Pic related. I acquired a Coleman Kerosene One over the holidays to add to my petromax and cold blast lanterns.

It runs great off 500CP Petromax and Peerless 111 mantles that also fit the petromax styles. Brighter, cheaper, and more durable than those Coleman mantles made of Chinesium. Thorium still king.

It's much easier to start than the petromax, but what isn't? Preheater is a cup opposed to the dish and blow torch type pre heaters the petromax features. Knob really can't adjust the amount of light much but that's more a function of how kero lanterns work. Wish it had a pressure gauge and a way to depressurize the tank other than slowly unscrewing the tank cap. I've heard it it can be run off diesel as well but its not as bright, mantle lasts less and you need to basically clean the nozzle after every tank cause clogs.
2 posts omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 17956 ID: bc78c2
  I really want to get one of those skookum aladdin mantle lamps but $$$
>> No. 17957 ID: fb3bdd
Someone's been watching AvE...
>> No. 17958 ID: bc78c2
File 148664884360.jpg - (216.89KB , 600x600 , us-army-stove-gasoline-cooking-m-1950.jpg )
17958
I wanna get one of those M1950 gasoline stoves the army fielded from 1951 till the 80s

It comes in a case that can be used as cookware. The lid of which has 2 notches so it can fit the earlier WWII M1942 stove

https://sklcolorado.wordpress.com/2015/04/30/m-1950-cooking-stove/
>> No. 17961 ID: bc78c2
  This guy knows his stuff on liquid fuel.
>> No. 17964 ID: bc78c2
  Guy knows his kerosene


File 138483331145.jpg - (292.47KB , 1000x912 , weapon collection AR safe.jpg )
11545 No. 11545 ID: 263d6c hide watch expand quickreply [Reply] [Last 50 posts]
10 THINGS TO CONSIDER WHEN BUYING A GUN SAFE
Posted on April 12, 2011 by GunWorld
By Steve Quinlan http://www.gunworld.com/buyers-guides/accessories/10-things-to-consider-when-buying-a-gun-safe/
Gun safes protect guns and other valuables from theft and fire. Here are 10 things to consider before purchasing one.

In this economy, a gun safe is one of the wisest investments you can make. According to the FBI, guns top the list of stolen items thieves target in home burglaries. Alcohol, cigarettes and prescription medicine rank second, followed by video equipment (TVs, cameras and recorders). Stereo equipment comes in at No. 4, and rounding out the Top 5 are jewelry and cash. All of the above can be stored securely in a quality gun safe, protected not only from thieves, but from a catastrophic fire, as well.

If your main concern is protecting children from an accidental discharge or transporting guns safely within the home or vehicle, other options are available, such as quick-access pistol boxes and minimum-security safes and strongboxes. These allow you quick access to weapons in the event of a break-in, but do little to stop a determined thief.

A gun safe buys you time against thieves and fire. Most break-ins last 10 minutes or less, and a gun safe buys you time as police are dispatched. These break-ins are typically during business hours when no one’s home ”between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m., and thieves don’t want to still be in the home when the police arrive.

Yet, generally speaking, the more security features a gun safe has, the better. Realistically, fire poses more of a threat to your guns than does theft. There is an average of nearly 400,000 residential fires annually, which translates to billions of dollars in property loss each year. Fireproof insulation is critical, and several types are available.

The more you know about the various theft- and fire-prevention features available for gun safes, the better informed you will be when purchasing a gun safe. Here are the six things you need to know about fire protection.
53 posts and 32 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 16567 ID: e7f332
>>14154

Dan Bilzerian should have had that on his safe.

http://www.washingtontimes.com/news/2015/nov/12/dan-bilzerian-los-angeles-cops-took-guns-without-w/?page=all
>> No. 16573 ID: 52ed6e
  >>15907
A seriously massive con of this is the mechanical override lock is a tubular lock which is ridiculously easy to pick if you own a $10 tubular lockpick.

If a safe has a wafer lock or a tubular lock, figure out a way to replace said lock with something actually good or buy something different. Wafer locks especially, you can pick those open with a screwdriver.
>> No. 16576 ID: 254d85
>>14154
>magnet

A engraved plaque of high-hardness stainless that can be welded or riveted on would be a far better option.
>> No. 16590 ID: 3254ec
>>12788
I just hope by then intra-stellar or even interstellar space travel is a thing so men yearning to be free can carve out their own corner of the system/galaxy (and eventually cleanse the eatrth with a kinetic kill vehicle)
>> No. 16591 ID: 3254ec
>>11560
The biggest problem I have with these kind of safes (couchsafe and bedsafe) is they are in the worst position for a crowbar/breaker bar attack, and it's not terribly effective concealment - it's something a hired home cleaner would easily run into.


File 148097267932.jpg - (126.21KB , 540x540 , hoodie.jpg )
17825 No. 17825 ID: 6ef9f1 hide watch quickreply [Reply]
Anyone have any idea who makes this jacket/knows of any similar products?
>> No. 17826 ID: 044fd0
Looks like something Mil-Tec would make.
>> No. 17827 ID: 6e9743
File 148100503230.jpg - (488.25KB , 1280x853 , German uniform NVA belt buckle - Feldkoppel der Na.jpg )
17827
The brown lines resemble East German camouflage.
Strichmuster (line pattern) is a very simple pattern incorporating long, slender brown rain straits on a light greyish-green background. http://camopedia.org/index.php?title=East_Germany
- East German NVA belt buckle - Feldkoppel der Nationalen Volksarmee der DDR.
>> No. 17922 ID: 1a2172
I could have sworn I saw a pattern very similar to this on a jacket on either cabelas site or basspro.

Check those places. I almost bought it, I thought it looked very similar to the German rain camp or whatever it is.
>> No. 17925 ID: bd9939
File 148391974453.jpg - (98.60KB , 615x660 , Cabelas-Mens-Space-Rain-Full-Zip-Jacket-with-4Most.jpg )
17925
>>17922
Cabela's "Outfitter" camo maybe? henceforth referred to as outfitterflage. Lacks the East German style rain line thingies, but similar concept.


Their space space rain jackets are pretty bitchin for their purpose if you can get them on sale or ebay bee tee dubs. I wish they made them in gray or brown or something. I had to get one in their dorky new "Octane" camo to get it cheap.
>> No. 17960 ID: f11f4d
>>17825
I just want to say, I love the colors on that rifle.
They're a mess, but it looks like they end up working perfectly together out in scrub.


File 148538734060.jpg - (73.85KB , 800x800 , surplus-soldier-helmets.jpg )
17932 No. 17932 ID: 8abb7b hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
Why were Eastern Bloc helmets so retarded?
9 posts and 7 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 17945 ID: a5ad5d
File 148581454628.jpg - (120.98KB , 1024x768 , Swiss WW2 helmet made in 1976 4.jpg )
17945
>> No. 17946 ID: a5ad5d
File 148581468512.jpg - (229.62KB , 1425x1636 , Swedish trooper helmet linjeinfanteri.jpg )
17946
And this Swedish linjeinfanteri boiled leather helmet with brass doo-dads just screams trademark violation.
>> No. 17947 ID: a5ad5d
File 148581481042.jpg - (333.98KB , 1200x960 , Ukrainian helmet image of St_ Michael & Ukrain.jpg )
17947
Ukrainian helmet bearing an iconic image of St. Michael and the Ukrainian crest.
Aim for Saint Mike; he won't mind and certainly won't intervene.
>> No. 17948 ID: b3839d
this helmet is clearly too small for that guy. Just imagine where it is sitting on his head. With the correct size Id imagine it would almost cover the ear.
>> No. 17949 ID: a5ad5d
File 148587403059.jpg - (408.80KB , 1280x1920 , German trooper East German military cadet guards a.jpg )
17949
Yeah, those East German helmets were big.


File 145413541321.jpg - (105.83KB , 600x900 , 1[1].jpg )
16816 No. 16816 ID: 2ed649 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
Getting real tired of my rucksack. I have a MOLLE ruck with the standard frame, and that shit keeps fucking with me after a while.

I've been thinking of getting another pack. A lot of guys, I've seen with ALICE packs, with the standard frame. It seems to work for them, and most of them are old-timers, so I pay attention to their opinions a bit more.

However, I've been looking at the 1606 frame. I have a spare MOLLE ruck that I'm able to modify to my heart's content. Anyone have experience with this? I know it says that it isn't the best frame for it, but I assume it's because the MOLLE ruck lacks the frame pocket at the top. I can always sew one in, or not, depending on how it works.

Or should I simply get an ALICE? In either case, I'd rather not have the metal frame. It looks pretty uncomfortable.
2 posts and 2 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 16820 ID: bd9939
File 14542014836.jpg - (36.26KB , 423x562 , somedudeshellcat.jpg )
16820
Never tried the plastic frames, but I once built one of those "hellcat" alice packs using the "molle II" ruck kidney pad and shoulder straps. It still sucked, but it was much, much nicer than the original ALICE equipment, and worked as okayish as can be expected with a plate carrier. Still they're nothing but a money pit with little to no payoff.

Got the old 3 color desert stuff off of ebay for super cheap and dyed it. Came out kind of a blueish green, but it worked fine.

Seriously though, if you can save pennies and swing for a used/sale price Mystery Ranch, Kuiu, Kifaru, Hill People Gear etc. They will last for a long, long time and your body will thank you.
>> No. 16821 ID: 2ed649
>>16820
I'll probably save up for something like that for now, I'll try this frame as an improvement. Planning to keep the kidney belt and straps either way, but the ALICE looks like it takes too much work. I could get a MALICE pack, but at that point, I might just buy a high-quality rucksack.
>> No. 17893 ID: f36974
>>16820
you gotta really wrestle with alice packs to make em' fit right

you usually are gonna have to tighten the waist belt a little higher than normal than most packs

packing your gear correctly in an alice pack is absolutely essential

they can't handle much past 45 lbs unless you are packing them really really well

when you first put the alice pack on, tighten the shoulders and loosen the waist belt. Make sure the waist belt is sitting on top of your kidneys and hips. Then tighten the waist belt. Then loosen the shoulders so the frame goes near vertical. Keep playing with it that way until you feel the best distribution. Alice packs aren't gonna be like regular hiking packs, and their weight distribution (most people like 90% on hips 10% on shoulds or 80/20%) is gonna be 75/25% or maybe less

great for hunting in cold weather though cause no zippers but they aren't very waterproof
>> No. 17921 ID: 622449
>>16817
> not adapting molle II straps to your ALICE
>> No. 17940 ID: 880526
>>16820

I'm in the process of building a Devil Cat mod. The only difference is that I'm using a FILBE main pack instead of an ALICE. The only thing I'm waiting on is the frame, which should arrive over the weekend.


File 148521442578.jpg - (189.68KB , 680x433 , 35201586a5f57d74b6.jpg )
17930 No. 17930 ID: 47660b hide watch quickreply [Reply]
Snek
>> No. 17931 ID: 95e359
File 148529109877.jpg - (449.61KB , 891x889 , indefinite detention.jpg )
17931
I have actually started cruising kinder/k/ quite a bit to keep up with the patches being produces. Some of them are really god damn neat-o.
Forgive the animu.
Also here's a pastebin of the stores if you would like to browse the numerous stores. Woodptach, Crimson, and Skinwalker are of particular interest IMO.
http://pastebin.com/cXZTGafD


File 148296297059.jpg - (67.47KB , 736x513 , f2da7a12e23691994b65b10629236b5e.jpg )
17917 No. 17917 ID: 854024 hide watch quickreply [Reply]
Dear Operators,

stupid fucking question to those who might have hands-on experience:

will this dropleg magazine panel: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Eagle-Industries-UMP-3-Mag-Drop-Leg-Black-Duty-Pouch-SWAT-Police-FBI-LE-SMG-/152164899367?hash=item236dbc1a27:g:cD0AAOSwl-FXNMrh

hold MP5 magazines SECURELY? or due to larger size of UMP45 magazines the MP5 mags might just slip out under the loose flap (and most likely will)?
>> No. 17919 ID: 5fdcaa
I own the Eagle industries MP5 .40 3 mag drop leg pouch, it does hold the 9mm 33rd
Glock magazines securely.


File 148134963267.jpg - (569.49KB , 776x943 , XL-Multicam.jpg )
17882 No. 17882 ID: a28495 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
Ok,

For practical purposes as a private citizen, would it be worth paying the extra money for Ceramic Level III armor or to get the Lightweight AR500 Level III+ with Pacxon double-coat? A lot of people bitch about frag/spalling but I've yet to see a single documented instance where AR500 with PaxCon base coat plus build up failed to contain fragmentation.
4 posts omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 17892 ID: bd9939
File 148156223535.jpg - (61.96KB , 600x400 , slickster.jpg )
17892
If you're uncomfortable with it, I totally get it and appreciate your focus of more realistic threat rounds (m193,m855,m855a1 and m80 ball vs fucking AP .30-06). But most destructive testing on quality level IV plates (highcom, midwest armor, paraclete, etc) ends up with them taking multiple hits of 5.56 and 7.62 with no penetration and survivable back face deformation. Keep in mind why you're buying these things. Get something you are actually going to be able to keep on all day if needed. You are legitimately looking at lugging around 18+ pounds of steel while still having only front and back torso protection. My plates are "only" 13ish pounds and I still hate them. If you think you can deal, then cool beans.

I would and did choose to save weight buy going with still heavy 6.3 pound level IV highcom guardians for around $300. At the time I was going to order some spartan armor steel which is supposed to be superior to AR500, but midwest armor had a sale. Following the "must have" trend on arfcom, I bought a retarded Shellback Banshee carrier and suffered practicing in that monstrosity for a couple years before realizing I had equipped myself wrong as a civilian (or as anyone, because that is a terrible plate carrier simply due to the shoulder design). I realized I was far better off with a much lower profile loadout that was concealable under an overshirt in a pinch, but scaleable to be able to hold it's own when needed at least in conjunction with a supplementary chest rig or direct to armor platform. After some research I settled on a Ferro Concepts Slickster from the great white north and it is absolutely perfect for my needs. Highly recommend.

That being said, if I were starting over again, I would save every penny to buy lighter "3+" manufacturer rated plates. I have been equipping my wife with the most cutting edge, but simplified shit I can afford from gear to weapon so that she'll actually be able and willing to practice with it, keep up with me and maybe even back me up a little bit. I bought her some 4.5 pound target man branded ceramic spectra hybrids and they're absolutely amazing. Trying them out for myself I felt like Ned Flanders wearing nothing at all. I'll be saving a few months here to get my own set and delegate my level IV's as a vehicle set.

You see plates identical in specs to these under a few names including Grey Ghost Gear, but I believe they are just rebrands from one armor manufacturer. This was the cheapest set I could find that wasn't coming from a sketch looking place.
https://www.spartanarmorsystems.com/level-iii-medium-9-25-x-12-5-ceramic-spectra-lightweight-advanced-set-of-two/


The practice of wearing armor only waned with the proliferation of firearms
Message too long. Click here to view the full text.
>> No. 17911 ID: 83051c
I've got some SAPI plates I picked up from a surplus store outside JBLM a few years ago I've been meaning to replace and suppliment with some soft stuff. Been looking at these and looks like it might be what you're looking for as well.

http://www.bulletproofme.com/RP-Level-3-PLUS-Ceramic.html
>> No. 17913 ID: bd9939
File 148255226347.jpg - (135.60KB , 823x971 , polish_hussar_v2_by_mynameisbyron-d54ugck.jpg )
17913
>>17911
Proceed with caution with those. I desperately wanted them to be good because they're almost half the cost of competitive weight/rating, but none of this "independently lab verified" stuff has ever actually been shown on those particular plates, only on the crappy steel stuff. They're stuff is not listed on the NIJ website either. In fact I can't even find any "youtube testing" they make fun of on those actual plates.

A lot of stuff the owner says is gibberish and raises a few flags.
>> No. 17914 ID: 6ca38e
>>17913
If you contacted Armour Wear, the company that supplies Bulletproofme with those particular plates, you could have the certification information sent to you. But yeah, only their IIIA stuff is listed on the NIJ compliance site. Might be because that's the only product they've submitted for any government contracts or something? I dunno. But if you got the information, you could find out what lab did the testing and make a call based on that.

Bulletproofme is one of the oldest sites on the internet that has sold armor to civis, though. I have to imagine that they can't have stayed in business so long while making false claims as to the proofing of their products.

In any case, you make a good point. Researching what you plan to buy is never a bad move.
>> No. 17915 ID: 0b17af
Dude just go on eBay and pick up some plates. I just bought 4 ceramic plates for $330 shipped. Shop around for a while. You might be surprised at what you find on there.


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