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Patches and Stickers for sale here

File 147483277979.jpg - (112.09KB , 574x960 , YoungAlanAldaHawkeyeInRSF.jpg )
17711 No. 17711 ID: fe91ea hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]

I am looking for a pair of "BDU shorts"/"cargo shorts". Currently I consider products from Tru-Spec, Propper and Rothco. Since design is the same at every shop my question is about the quality of clothing (in terms of craftsmanship, materials, comfort, durability) from the aformentioned vendors - which one is worth buying? Are there any actual differences? How are the poly/cotton blends working in hot weather compared to 100% cotton?

No "capri-pants" nor any other gay-related items of clothing allowed in this thread.
2 posts and 1 image omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 17723 ID: ec7ed1
File 147517052238.jpg - (858.15KB , 2560x1600 , jeans cut-offs 1.jpg )
How about just making some cut-offs? Hem up the bottom where you want.
>> No. 17730 ID: e99cc7
File 147569928079.jpg - (47.05KB , 220x536 , 220px-Yvon_Chouinard__Mt_Hood.jpg )
Get yourself a pair of patagonia stand-up canvas shorts. They'll last foreve rand come with a lifetime guarantee. They work great in the heat and have more than enough storage in the huge front and back pockets.
>> No. 17756 ID: afbf4f
Seconded. They're great shorts.
>> No. 17814 ID: 89d360


Dem boots
>> No. 17815 ID: 5a1acb
I'm currently wearing some truspec, with a zippered fly. I've had them for a few years now with regular weekend wear and they're still good as new. Pretty great pants, would buy again.

Poly-cotton is great, it's still quite durable, while feeling like summer shorts. 100% cotton is closer to wearing jeans, it's heavier, stiffer, and takes longer to dry.

File 147224534955.png - (4.50MB , 1583x4545 , RH Preyda Deluxe Honing Kit Massdrop.png )
17647 No. 17647 ID: c5ecc5 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
I have never sharpened a knife before. Is this what I want?

3 posts omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 17655 ID: dda126
>To sharpen or polish

it's the same thing if you don't let a knife get dull but just touch it up after some use. ofc, if you wreck an edge you'll need a rough whetstone first. I don't really use knives but I keep them polished razor sharp and greased up to prevent oxidation which kinda tends to creep up on an edge in the dampy conditions of my 5.11 pants.
>> No. 17669 ID: c5ecc5
I just bought the large kit last night. I doubt I'm going to need to sharpen anything right away, though.
>> No. 17681 ID: 22504e


99% of the time, all you need is to reset the edge. To do this, you hone it, like with one of those chef's steels. Other than that, just use waterstones. Be sure to let it soak for a min or two submerged in water before starting. Often, also, cheaper stones are not very flat, and need to be flattened before hand. You can rub two stones together to do this, as they will wear away at the high spots first. When sharpening, don't use heavy pressure, especially if you are using a finer stone. Let the grit do its work. Very little material needs to be removed generally anyway. Also don't get too autistic with it unless you are using this for culinary purposes (or so I hear, I am no chef) or shaving. A true razor's edge won't survive 10 seconds of real work.
>> No. 17812 ID: e517e3
If you don't know what to use or how to sharpen, I would strongly recommend against doing so and learning with free-hand. Yes, having an understanding and practical experience with doing it by hand is a good foundation to be able to revert to - but it also means a lot of trial and error and learning when and where you're fucking up. And many people aren't even aware of when they do.

The stones seem decent. Arkansas stones are good and will work and perform well on a myriad amount of steels. Stay the fuck away from aluminum-oxide (corundum) stones, however. Ceramic and diamond are king as far as I'm concerned.

As far as "systems" go, of the ones I've bought and used the two best are the Lanksy sharpener and the DMT Aligner. DMT Aligner, especially, is pretty fucking boss and well designed (DMT's diamond stones are also very, very good). Lansky has diamond hones as well and is more versatile and cheaper. Look into which works for you. Whatever you get, make sure you have angle control options.

Spyderco Sharpmaker is sub-optimal because of lack of angle control past the standard 15/20 DPS and the "medium"/gray stones that come standard are shit and useless for reprofiling - you're going to need CBN or diamond. That's about another ~$50 on top of the system to begin with. Then you'll want SF stones because they're fucking awesome to finish with - that's about $15 each (yes, you'll need two). I'd just as soon avoid. I barely use my Sharpmaker outside of specialty sharpening now.

Despite it's legion of fans (...why?), the Edge Pro and it's many clones are some of the shittiest available. I hate the living fuck out of using them. Not only does the original Edge Pro not have a clamp system (automatic disqualification due to movements therefore causing changes in your apex angle), but the clamp system clones are annoying because you have to remove the clamp and turn the blade over to do the other side. Fuck these systems. I'm baffled that people actually like them.

Next on my list is a KME system. Expensive (around $200) and there aren't a ton of options, but it seems like one of the best designed systems out there.

TL;DR version: That's okay, but it's just decent-looking stones in a wood box to make you pay more for it. I'd suggest a DMT Aligner or Lansky guided sharpener. YMMV.
>> No. 17813 ID: caf239
I had the Lansky sharpening system. Damn good, I miss it. But I had to leave it behind in Florida because it was too heavy for my check bags.

I need to pick up a whet stone and start doing it by hand again. I got too comfortable with a sharpening system that I feel I lost my competence doing it the old fashioned way. I need to get that back.

I remember seeing whet stones at Harbor Freight. It was a glance, so I don't know if they're any good or not. I'll go investigate and see if they're worth the $2.

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17426 No. 17426 ID: 82b738 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
Just finally standardized mine
2 posts omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 17496 ID: c1c101
I don't really care to do the subload thing. Not that my fat dumb ass is going to be doing much running in the first place. But I guess that means that what running I can/will do should be as unimpaired as possible. Since it's only a israeli bandage and tq (and maybe some celox gauze) going on the belt, it won't need much real estate.

There's also no point in me standardizing to anyone else's standard, since there's no longer anyone in my local AO I trust to roll deep with.

No idea what class you mean. So I guess that's a no. A cursory google search brings up something in early August. There's really no way for me to know this far ahead of time if my work schedule will permit me to take a Monday-Tuesday class and by the time I know the class will probably be full. So I guess that's a double no.
>> No. 17757 ID: a4d0ec
Are there any good $10 trauma shears, or are the ones in the $20+ range the way to go? I only own 2 pairs and need to buy more
>> No. 17767 ID: 7e7763
what's wrong with the $3 chinese shears?
>> No. 17768 ID: c550c6
Any specific one on Amazon or eBay that has a good reputation?
>> No. 17811 ID: f05ad0

EMT here.

If you're using em to cut clothes, the 10 dollar ones are fine. If you gotta cut through something thicker (the example that comes to mind for me is the harness firefighters put on you to pull you out of a car when they can't get the doors open) its probably gonna break em.

tl:dr unless you use em professionally, the cheap ones are fine

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17107 No. 17107 ID: 5023d5 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply] [First 100 posts] [Last 50 posts]
Drooling over new Busse
It's another I can't spend that on that sword but Oh My!

let's see 'em.
154 posts and 142 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 17805 ID: a90ce2
File 147942196978.jpg - (1.01MB , 2491x1944 , CC knife Sage Blades black walnut & copper wra.jpg )
>> No. 17806 ID: a90ce2
File 147942201138.jpg - (1.03MB , 2550x1880 , CC knife Sage Blades black walnut & copper wra.jpg )
>> No. 17807 ID: a90ce2
File 147942204544.jpg - (1.53MB , 2592x1944 , CC knife Sage Blades black walnut & copper wra.jpg )
>> No. 17808 ID: a90ce2
File 147942225218.jpg - (1.21MB , 2518x1551 , CC knife Sage Blades stiletto with triple-hollow g.jpg )
A custom, old-fashion stiletto with triple-hollow ground blade
>> No. 17809 ID: a90ce2
File 147942232641.jpg - (837.29KB , 2119x1375 , CC knife Sage Blades custom compact-SK3.jpg )
A custom compact-SK3

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17731 No. 17731 ID: 3e0c42 hide watch quickreply [Reply]
Sup operators. I'm looking for an easy to attach and detach flashlight holder for an AA flashlight that I can strap to my issue C7A2 rifles for when I'm out on field exercises. Nothing too crazy that involves removing or adding parts of the firearm or alot of tools to install since this will be for a service rifle that I have to return at the end of the Ex. Any decent recommendations? Post what you got. Simpler is better. Cheers!
>> No. 17732 ID: 3e0c42
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The rifle has an M16A2 style handguard FYI, but has a very small trirail at the front.

A one piece light+mount is acceptable as long as it's AA or AAA since those are the batteries available and I use with my kit.
>> No. 17733 ID: 6b956f
Grab a set of cheap Weaver or pic compatable scope rings. 1" would probably be fine. Maybe 20mm if your light is a thin AAA light. Can use a strip of cut up bicycle inner tube or some other bit of rubber to shim up the body of the light and add traction so the light doesn't slide in the ring.

Its ghetto but should do the job.
>> No. 17762 ID: 3e0c42
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Thanks bruh, I got one of these low profile QD mounts and it should fit the role perfectly.

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17252 No. 17252 ID: 7ec630 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
For awhile now I've wanted to try and make a MOLLE belt capable of holding an Infantry fighting load. Basically something similar to how the ALICE belt used to be. 6-7 magazines, two canteen pouches, & GP Pouch. I tried using an HSGI belt a few years back and it didn't really work out.

Recently I got to work with the British Military and I really took a liking to their PLCE. It seems like it does exactly what I'm looking for. With the harness setup I could even figure out a way to hook up a camelbak.

I'm a weekend warrior in a light infantry unit these days, but I still would like gear that's able to perform well. Can any recommend where in the US to buy real PLCE, or have any suggestions for a MOLLE belt setup?
23 posts and 9 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 17488 ID: d50d06
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The shoulder yoke is very well padded indeed. It rubs on my neck but without taking it on a march I don't know how much that would irritate me. It feels very stable and with the belt tightened down I don't feel as much weight on my shoulders as I thought I would.
>> No. 17489 ID: d50d06
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First complaint is this buckle. I'm just not used to it, but I think I would prefer some sort of quick release clip. This holds very snug and doesn't back off that I've found. But it takes a few seconds to get tight, where as I feel like a buckle would be a lot quicker.
>> No. 17490 ID: d50d06
File 146690894479.jpg - (338.78KB , 1152x2048 , 13509625_10209026290869784_230111730_o.jpg )
Here is my biggest concern. The material is nice, but it feels plasticy (Don't know how else to describe it). All the stitching is single stitching. No idea if this will be an issue at all, but I'll be keeping an eye on things to watch for bits coming undone.

Thanks to everyone who helped me with this purchase!
>> No. 17738 ID: 1cbaaa
Disciple is ok, I think Dragon Supplies or Jay Jay's of Brecon would be better quality.

The roll pin is a solid choice, if you add or remove layers then the belt will always be exactly the right tightness. Whereas with a traditional buckle you'd have to adjust it.

I also secure the roll pin belt using adhesive velcro (reinforced with superglue), but that's just me.
>> No. 17740 ID: 3a0e10
http://www.tacticaltailor.com/mavbody2piece.aspx and

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17721 No. 17721 ID: 38a9a9 hide watch quickreply [Reply]
I am looking at Armasight NODs and due to my being not so well off have decided to go cheap for my first set. Does anyone have any experience with Gen 1 NV? I'd be particularly interested in hearing from anyone that has experience with the Spark or Vega models from Armasight.
>> No. 17724 ID: 2ed649
File 147517058844.jpg - (511.33KB , 2125x1196 , nods.jpg )
I don't have experience with with Armasight stuff, although it looks good. I do have a pair of Pulsar nods. They are nowhere near as good as Gen III, which is what I'm used to, but they can be used for familiarization if you have an IR light mounted to your helmet. I like the pulsar pair because they mount to the standard rhino mount without too much fuss.

If you're planning to use these for anything other than just getting used to nods or some limited indoor use, I recommend you save your money. Pic related, my helmet and cheapo nods.
>> No. 17726 ID: 8a53bd
I had a gen 1 monocular as a kid.

Save your jewgold to get at least gen2 tube equipped. Gen1 works but is supershit.
>> No. 17727 ID: 02cdd5
How did you mount the pulsar to your rhino arm? Did you build an adapter or is there one available commercially?
>> No. 17728 ID: 2ed649
The standard j-arm fits the pulsar. No modifications required.
>> No. 17729 ID: 6f4a31
I am going to go with the spark...it is basically Gen II without the microchannel plate (so it is technically Gen 1+).

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17712 No. 17712 ID: bec165 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
What are you guys wearing? I've been taking an R.G.B for a spin lately.

Lets talk about why good belts are important for a second...
3 posts omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 17716 ID: 685058
File 147493540981.jpg - (244.77KB , 1192x2520 , pistol holster Arvo Ojala fast-draw holster and be.jpg )
I have a plain Western-style leather belt and holster rig for my Ruger Vaquero.
>> No. 17717 ID: 0cc1d8
I'm currently using my Dickies web belt. It's pretty rigid, but I think it's eventually going to warp once I start carrying daily after I move.

Any good budget belts? I'm going to be using my Dickies belt without much regret because I don't care that it will eventually warp, but I do see the benefits of a more rigid belt and longevity.
>> No. 17718 ID: 028b36
I've been wearing the Carhartt leather and webbing belt


I found it at a surplus store and it has been holding up really well, worked great with Comp-Tac's C-Clip for holsters. But from what I can gathered it's no longer in production :(
>> No. 17719 ID: 22504e
I second this recommendation. Though I never tuck in my shirt, so I don't think anyone ever sees it. Frankly, it's mostly the COBRA buckle that makes it look mall ninja. At a glance it looks more like a cloth belt that teenagers wear.
>> No. 17725 ID: bd9939
I wear a $15 black factory second 5.11 "OPERATOR" belt erry day because my nice 214 gear cobra belt was getting a liiiiitle tight for the moment. It's pretty dumb but it's still less gay than the big fucking wannabe cowboy buckles most of these fudds and bubbas are wearing. Works quite well, wish it was less obvious but for the price I'm very happy.

Next belt will be something leather and smaller from safariland simply because I can get them quite cheap.

No. 17690 ID: bc78c2 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
  If SHTF and you have one of these, you're the hottest of shit.
10 posts and 4 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 17706 ID: f49edb

>The only thing going for the woodmobile is that it runs (poorly) on firewood.

That's it entirely. If you've got nothing else you can still use wood. Until the wood is all gone.
>> No. 17707 ID: d4c8ee
File 147423607772.jpg - (1.48MB , 2560x1920 , Haiti_deforestation.jpg )
And then you end up like Haiti.
>> No. 17708 ID: bc78c2
  This is now saw general thread
>> No. 17709 ID: 7e7763
Many diesel engines can be made to run on straight vegetable oil, no need to convert the oil to biodiesel.
>> No. 17710 ID: f87148

Yeah, but my reading indicates that SVO comes with a few issues of its own, notably gelling and oxidative polymerization, the latter of which can apparently BTFO an ICE in fairly short order.

Besides, with biodiesel, I'll be able to just pump it straight into literally anything that takes diesel, from my second-echelon standby generators, to an old Muhsaydes TDI, to a fuckin' bush plane without having to fuck around with any of their gaskets and seals and whatever the hell else.

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17564 No. 17564 ID: c8dc6d hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
Once I move to Arizona, I'm going to be in the land of constitutional carry and I intend to carry my Glock 19.

However, I don't have a holster and I am a poorfag, otherwise I'd just pick up a G-Code or Armiger and be done with it.

Are there any good holsters in the $30-$40 range? I prefer appendix carry. Do I have options for this price? Or am I limited to belt slide minimalist holsters and button up shirts?
8 posts and 2 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 17635 ID: dda126

>> No. 17642 ID: c1c101
To be clear...I do not honestly advocate the use of Fobus holsters...They don't seem to conceal well, retain well, or not-break well. First hand experience.
>> No. 17643 ID: 0cc1d8
I know to avoid them, quality a shit and that design is pants on hand retarded.

There's a few I'm looking at and there's a local kydex holster maker whose prices aren't crazy. Might go that route.
>> No. 17644 ID: c1c101
It's also not that hard or cost intensive to roll your own kydex. You seem handy enough and once you've put together a press and presuming you have access to an oven, you can make a holster for just a few bucks. Order some rivets and belt attachment hardware, and you're good to go.

>> No. 17696 ID: 460861
Ended up ordering this.


I hear good things about Blade Tech and the clip looks like it has good retention. Now I just need to find some cheap mag pouches.

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