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Patches and Stickers for sale here

No. 17444 ID: ce2b82 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply] [Last 50 posts]
What's good? What's bad? What's easy to make yourself?
I chanced upon videos of this guy, Steve1989 MREinfo, who tastes and reviews military rations, from old survival food packs from WW2, C-rats from the Vietnam War and modern MREs from around the world.

This Norwegian reindeer stew ration got some terrific marks. Even the instant coffee, toffee bars and chocolate were amazingly good.
2016 Norwegian Arctic Field Ration Reindeer Casserole Game Stew MRE Review Military https://youtu.be/7fmLlkfGQ_0
52 posts and 25 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 17850 ID: eefa98
File 148113234559.jpg - (101.41KB , 1024x768 , rations US MCI 1980 Menu 4 Pork Sliced Cooked with.jpg )
>> No. 17851 ID: eefa98
File 148113245026.jpg - (92.74KB , 1024x768 , rations US MCI 1980 Menu 4 Pork Sliced Cooked with.jpg )
A leaky can of sliced pork cooked with juices 36+ years old? Don't risk it!
>> No. 17852 ID: eefa98
File 148113248078.jpg - (150.18KB , 1024x770 , rations US MCI 1980 Menu 4 Pork Sliced Cooked with.jpg )
>> No. 17853 ID: eefa98
File 148113251338.jpg - (113.65KB , 1024x754 , rations US MCI 1980 Menu 4 Pork Sliced Cooked with.jpg )
>> No. 17854 ID: eefa98
  1993 Frozen For 15 years Preserved MRE Pork Rice & BBQ Sauce Ration Pack US Military Food Review https://youtu.be/PiErAgbwH3Q
Howdy, folks! This time we got a Pork & Rice W/ BBQ Sauce MRE from 1993 that has been frozen for the last 15 years (Actually just talked to Jerry, the dude I got 'em from and he told me up to 20 years) and this experiment was a 100% success! This thing looks and tastes like it was made last year! Even the applesauce was in perfect shape! Absolutely amazing MRE review for that reason alone and totally worth watching, you won't be disappointed.

File 14778339832.png - (74.75KB , 1045x1010 , p124-125.png )
17752 No. 17752 ID: 1e7323 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
Reading a little about Russian forces and found they abandoned footwraps in the late 2000's[1]. I found that a little surprising so I looked up why. Is it crazy to use a footwrap in lieu of modern socks for thinks like hiking and camping? Did the Russians hold on to it for traditions sake or are us spoiled westerners with our fancy industry missing out?

- They are easy to wash and they dry quickly
- One universal "size" fits the foot of any adult human
- They can be disinfected by boiling and ironing without suffering any damage.
- There is no need to search for a mate to form a pair.
- They can be easily fabricated in the field from most any material at hand.
- They can continue to be safely used after localized wear by simply shifting to an area without holes or tears.
- They are extremely durable, especially when fabricated from wool or felt.

- Can cause blisters
- Socks are cheap

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>> No. 17821 ID: 044fd0
File 148071612068.jpg - (82.58KB , 640x475 , 1453435806-5-12573100_1148558651863300_75575699853.jpg )

When I'm camping I'll often take a GI wool blanket, fold the narrow end down about 6 or 8 inches or so to form a collar and fasten it at the neck with a large safety pin. I find this quite cozy.

Alternatively you could find yourself an Afghan Patu.
>> No. 17823 ID: 5a1acb
File 148085234960.jpg - (325.50KB , 900x1448 , Viking_trader_by_VendelRus.jpg )
I feel you. Sometimes I wish I could dress more like pic related.

Capes could make a comeback. The modern wardrobe is just designed for fashion anyways, often at the cost of function and comfort. Superheros and medieval fantasy are popular these days.

Look at jeans, they're inferior to other options in nearly every aspect. They're heavy, sponge like, restrictive, average to high in cost, even the pockets suck to use.

Maybe the sock is better than the foot wrap, but I'm sure we make some functionally poor choices else where. If you still think jeans are great, try on a pair of high heels.
>> No. 17824 ID: 3f7131
File 148094740526.jpg - (278.24KB , 1536x2048 , 111.jpg )
For winter camping I've sewn a full on cloak out of old wool blankets. When it's 5 degrees and you're sleeping in the middle of the woods, who really gives a crap how you're dressed? It's heavy, sure, but so much dead air. Like small swords and capes, they aren't any less effective, just less... socially acceptable.
>> No. 17834 ID: fb3bdd
You can't cut a main in twain with a smallsword!
>> No. 17890 ID: 5556d0
Pox to that. Nary a need to have a man cloven in twide whenas smallsword thro his offal.

I wonder how many litfags that mess will piss off. Probably all of them.

File 146289667374.jpg - (48.12KB , 478x640 , anorak.jpg )
17379 No. 17379 ID: 244c85 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
How much do TAD Anoraks run for these days? I know they're basically impossible to find, and I image the wear on it would make it kinda not worth the cash.

Didn't they go for like less than a hundred though at the time?
4 posts and 1 image omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 17424 ID: cad48c
I've got a couple of TAD items and TBH neither have impressed me overmuch. The fleece gets cut through by a breeze, and the hardshell just hasn't held up well at all. I've had to glue the fucker back together and it's managed to start pilling up at contact points. I expected to have to re-apply DWR a few times, but thought it'd be pretty bombproof otherwise given the price.
>> No. 17425 ID: 82b738
File 146491348279.jpg - (2.81MB , 3264x2448 , 14649133689912045640519.jpg )
Knockoff jacket came in last week. Wore it camping, I'll post more photos later.
>> No. 17443 ID: 0fa6d7

I'd be interested in knowing which knockoffs are good & which aren't.
>> No. 17509 ID: c550c6
File 146808482555.jpg - (393.03KB , 1600x1426 , s-l1600.jpg )
This was the one I bought:

I wear an XL, bought the 3XL because lolAsian sizes and it fits me perfectly.
>> No. 17822 ID: 1b69e9

Pretty much this. They have a huge sale going on this weekend and while I was browsing their site the only product that I think commands its price point is their stealth hoodie LT since no one else makes a tacticool jacket in c_change which is alot more breathable than goretex. For everything else Id rather spend my money on arc'teryx, cause deadbird shit is legit high quality.

File 147483277979.jpg - (112.09KB , 574x960 , YoungAlanAldaHawkeyeInRSF.jpg )
17711 No. 17711 ID: fe91ea hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]

I am looking for a pair of "BDU shorts"/"cargo shorts". Currently I consider products from Tru-Spec, Propper and Rothco. Since design is the same at every shop my question is about the quality of clothing (in terms of craftsmanship, materials, comfort, durability) from the aformentioned vendors - which one is worth buying? Are there any actual differences? How are the poly/cotton blends working in hot weather compared to 100% cotton?

No "capri-pants" nor any other gay-related items of clothing allowed in this thread.
2 posts and 1 image omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 17723 ID: ec7ed1
File 147517052238.jpg - (858.15KB , 2560x1600 , jeans cut-offs 1.jpg )
How about just making some cut-offs? Hem up the bottom where you want.
>> No. 17730 ID: e99cc7
File 147569928079.jpg - (47.05KB , 220x536 , 220px-Yvon_Chouinard__Mt_Hood.jpg )
Get yourself a pair of patagonia stand-up canvas shorts. They'll last foreve rand come with a lifetime guarantee. They work great in the heat and have more than enough storage in the huge front and back pockets.
>> No. 17756 ID: afbf4f
Seconded. They're great shorts.
>> No. 17814 ID: 89d360


Dem boots
>> No. 17815 ID: 5a1acb
I'm currently wearing some truspec, with a zippered fly. I've had them for a few years now with regular weekend wear and they're still good as new. Pretty great pants, would buy again.

Poly-cotton is great, it's still quite durable, while feeling like summer shorts. 100% cotton is closer to wearing jeans, it's heavier, stiffer, and takes longer to dry.

File 147224534955.png - (4.50MB , 1583x4545 , RH Preyda Deluxe Honing Kit Massdrop.png )
17647 No. 17647 ID: c5ecc5 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
I have never sharpened a knife before. Is this what I want?

3 posts omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 17655 ID: dda126
>To sharpen or polish

it's the same thing if you don't let a knife get dull but just touch it up after some use. ofc, if you wreck an edge you'll need a rough whetstone first. I don't really use knives but I keep them polished razor sharp and greased up to prevent oxidation which kinda tends to creep up on an edge in the dampy conditions of my 5.11 pants.
>> No. 17669 ID: c5ecc5
I just bought the large kit last night. I doubt I'm going to need to sharpen anything right away, though.
>> No. 17681 ID: 22504e


99% of the time, all you need is to reset the edge. To do this, you hone it, like with one of those chef's steels. Other than that, just use waterstones. Be sure to let it soak for a min or two submerged in water before starting. Often, also, cheaper stones are not very flat, and need to be flattened before hand. You can rub two stones together to do this, as they will wear away at the high spots first. When sharpening, don't use heavy pressure, especially if you are using a finer stone. Let the grit do its work. Very little material needs to be removed generally anyway. Also don't get too autistic with it unless you are using this for culinary purposes (or so I hear, I am no chef) or shaving. A true razor's edge won't survive 10 seconds of real work.
>> No. 17812 ID: e517e3
If you don't know what to use or how to sharpen, I would strongly recommend against doing so and learning with free-hand. Yes, having an understanding and practical experience with doing it by hand is a good foundation to be able to revert to - but it also means a lot of trial and error and learning when and where you're fucking up. And many people aren't even aware of when they do.

The stones seem decent. Arkansas stones are good and will work and perform well on a myriad amount of steels. Stay the fuck away from aluminum-oxide (corundum) stones, however. Ceramic and diamond are king as far as I'm concerned.

As far as "systems" go, of the ones I've bought and used the two best are the Lanksy sharpener and the DMT Aligner. DMT Aligner, especially, is pretty fucking boss and well designed (DMT's diamond stones are also very, very good). Lansky has diamond hones as well and is more versatile and cheaper. Look into which works for you. Whatever you get, make sure you have angle control options.

Spyderco Sharpmaker is sub-optimal because of lack of angle control past the standard 15/20 DPS and the "medium"/gray stones that come standard are shit and useless for reprofiling - you're going to need CBN or diamond. That's about another ~$50 on top of the system to begin with. Then you'll want SF stones because they're fucking awesome to finish with - that's about $15 each (yes, you'll need two). I'd just as soon avoid. I barely use my Sharpmaker outside of specialty sharpening now.

Despite it's legion of fans (...why?), the Edge Pro and it's many clones are some of the shittiest available. I hate the living fuck out of using them. Not only does the original Edge Pro not have a clamp system (automatic disqualification due to movements therefore causing changes in your apex angle), but the clamp system clones are annoying because you have to remove the clamp and turn the blade over to do the other side. Fuck these systems. I'm baffled that people actually like them.

Next on my list is a KME system. Expensive (around $200) and there aren't a ton of options, but it seems like one of the best designed systems out there.

TL;DR version: That's okay, but it's just decent-looking stones in a wood box to make you pay more for it. I'd suggest a DMT Aligner or Lansky guided sharpener. YMMV.
>> No. 17813 ID: caf239
I had the Lansky sharpening system. Damn good, I miss it. But I had to leave it behind in Florida because it was too heavy for my check bags.

I need to pick up a whet stone and start doing it by hand again. I got too comfortable with a sharpening system that I feel I lost my competence doing it the old fashioned way. I need to get that back.

I remember seeing whet stones at Harbor Freight. It was a glance, so I don't know if they're any good or not. I'll go investigate and see if they're worth the $2.

File 146491360466.jpg - (3.10MB , 3264x2448 , 20160602_190012.jpg )
17426 No. 17426 ID: 82b738 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
Just finally standardized mine
2 posts omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 17496 ID: c1c101
I don't really care to do the subload thing. Not that my fat dumb ass is going to be doing much running in the first place. But I guess that means that what running I can/will do should be as unimpaired as possible. Since it's only a israeli bandage and tq (and maybe some celox gauze) going on the belt, it won't need much real estate.

There's also no point in me standardizing to anyone else's standard, since there's no longer anyone in my local AO I trust to roll deep with.

No idea what class you mean. So I guess that's a no. A cursory google search brings up something in early August. There's really no way for me to know this far ahead of time if my work schedule will permit me to take a Monday-Tuesday class and by the time I know the class will probably be full. So I guess that's a double no.
>> No. 17757 ID: a4d0ec
Are there any good $10 trauma shears, or are the ones in the $20+ range the way to go? I only own 2 pairs and need to buy more
>> No. 17767 ID: 7e7763
what's wrong with the $3 chinese shears?
>> No. 17768 ID: c550c6
Any specific one on Amazon or eBay that has a good reputation?
>> No. 17811 ID: f05ad0

EMT here.

If you're using em to cut clothes, the 10 dollar ones are fine. If you gotta cut through something thicker (the example that comes to mind for me is the harness firefighters put on you to pull you out of a car when they can't get the doors open) its probably gonna break em.

tl:dr unless you use em professionally, the cheap ones are fine

File 145921300798.jpg - (238.75KB , 1280x629 , hognosewarsword.jpg )
17107 No. 17107 ID: 5023d5 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply] [First 100 posts] [Last 50 posts]
Drooling over new Busse
It's another I can't spend that on that sword but Oh My!

let's see 'em.
154 posts and 142 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 17805 ID: a90ce2
File 147942196978.jpg - (1.01MB , 2491x1944 , CC knife Sage Blades black walnut & copper wra.jpg )
>> No. 17806 ID: a90ce2
File 147942201138.jpg - (1.03MB , 2550x1880 , CC knife Sage Blades black walnut & copper wra.jpg )
>> No. 17807 ID: a90ce2
File 147942204544.jpg - (1.53MB , 2592x1944 , CC knife Sage Blades black walnut & copper wra.jpg )
>> No. 17808 ID: a90ce2
File 147942225218.jpg - (1.21MB , 2518x1551 , CC knife Sage Blades stiletto with triple-hollow g.jpg )
A custom, old-fashion stiletto with triple-hollow ground blade
>> No. 17809 ID: a90ce2
File 147942232641.jpg - (837.29KB , 2119x1375 , CC knife Sage Blades custom compact-SK3.jpg )
A custom compact-SK3

File 14757331787.jpg - (177.04KB , 1024x683 , c7a2-automatic-rifle-03_JPG.jpg )
17731 No. 17731 ID: 3e0c42 hide watch quickreply [Reply]
Sup operators. I'm looking for an easy to attach and detach flashlight holder for an AA flashlight that I can strap to my issue C7A2 rifles for when I'm out on field exercises. Nothing too crazy that involves removing or adding parts of the firearm or alot of tools to install since this will be for a service rifle that I have to return at the end of the Ex. Any decent recommendations? Post what you got. Simpler is better. Cheers!
>> No. 17732 ID: 3e0c42
File 147573330879.jpg - (304.04KB , 1024x682 , 15189458232_096c070510_b.jpg )
The rifle has an M16A2 style handguard FYI, but has a very small trirail at the front.

A one piece light+mount is acceptable as long as it's AA or AAA since those are the batteries available and I use with my kit.
>> No. 17733 ID: 6b956f
Grab a set of cheap Weaver or pic compatable scope rings. 1" would probably be fine. Maybe 20mm if your light is a thin AAA light. Can use a strip of cut up bicycle inner tube or some other bit of rubber to shim up the body of the light and add traction so the light doesn't slide in the ring.

Its ghetto but should do the job.
>> No. 17762 ID: 3e0c42
File 14785035656.jpg - (57.22KB , 800x800 , $_57_JPG.jpg )
Thanks bruh, I got one of these low profile QD mounts and it should fit the role perfectly.

File 146005524589.jpg - (28.01KB , 500x500 , s-l500.jpg )
17252 No. 17252 ID: 7ec630 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
For awhile now I've wanted to try and make a MOLLE belt capable of holding an Infantry fighting load. Basically something similar to how the ALICE belt used to be. 6-7 magazines, two canteen pouches, & GP Pouch. I tried using an HSGI belt a few years back and it didn't really work out.

Recently I got to work with the British Military and I really took a liking to their PLCE. It seems like it does exactly what I'm looking for. With the harness setup I could even figure out a way to hook up a camelbak.

I'm a weekend warrior in a light infantry unit these days, but I still would like gear that's able to perform well. Can any recommend where in the US to buy real PLCE, or have any suggestions for a MOLLE belt setup?
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>> No. 17488 ID: d50d06
File 146690862777.jpg - (391.94KB , 2048x1152 , 13548986_10209026290909785_1675793202_o.jpg )
The shoulder yoke is very well padded indeed. It rubs on my neck but without taking it on a march I don't know how much that would irritate me. It feels very stable and with the belt tightened down I don't feel as much weight on my shoulders as I thought I would.
>> No. 17489 ID: d50d06
File 146690872777.jpg - (341.63KB , 2048x1152 , 13499439_10209026290789782_1760953272_o.jpg )
First complaint is this buckle. I'm just not used to it, but I think I would prefer some sort of quick release clip. This holds very snug and doesn't back off that I've found. But it takes a few seconds to get tight, where as I feel like a buckle would be a lot quicker.
>> No. 17490 ID: d50d06
File 146690894479.jpg - (338.78KB , 1152x2048 , 13509625_10209026290869784_230111730_o.jpg )
Here is my biggest concern. The material is nice, but it feels plasticy (Don't know how else to describe it). All the stitching is single stitching. No idea if this will be an issue at all, but I'll be keeping an eye on things to watch for bits coming undone.

Thanks to everyone who helped me with this purchase!
>> No. 17738 ID: 1cbaaa
Disciple is ok, I think Dragon Supplies or Jay Jay's of Brecon would be better quality.

The roll pin is a solid choice, if you add or remove layers then the belt will always be exactly the right tightness. Whereas with a traditional buckle you'd have to adjust it.

I also secure the roll pin belt using adhesive velcro (reinforced with superglue), but that's just me.
>> No. 17740 ID: 3a0e10
http://www.tacticaltailor.com/mavbody2piece.aspx and

File 147509520797.jpg - (12.68KB , 184x184 , 1468043235664.jpg )
17721 No. 17721 ID: 38a9a9 hide watch quickreply [Reply]
I am looking at Armasight NODs and due to my being not so well off have decided to go cheap for my first set. Does anyone have any experience with Gen 1 NV? I'd be particularly interested in hearing from anyone that has experience with the Spark or Vega models from Armasight.
>> No. 17724 ID: 2ed649
File 147517058844.jpg - (511.33KB , 2125x1196 , nods.jpg )
I don't have experience with with Armasight stuff, although it looks good. I do have a pair of Pulsar nods. They are nowhere near as good as Gen III, which is what I'm used to, but they can be used for familiarization if you have an IR light mounted to your helmet. I like the pulsar pair because they mount to the standard rhino mount without too much fuss.

If you're planning to use these for anything other than just getting used to nods or some limited indoor use, I recommend you save your money. Pic related, my helmet and cheapo nods.
>> No. 17726 ID: 8a53bd
I had a gen 1 monocular as a kid.

Save your jewgold to get at least gen2 tube equipped. Gen1 works but is supershit.
>> No. 17727 ID: 02cdd5
How did you mount the pulsar to your rhino arm? Did you build an adapter or is there one available commercially?
>> No. 17728 ID: 2ed649
The standard j-arm fits the pulsar. No modifications required.
>> No. 17729 ID: 6f4a31
I am going to go with the spark...it is basically Gen II without the microchannel plate (so it is technically Gen 1+).

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