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File 149548019339.jpg - (73.27KB , 1024x791 , US WW2 M1 Carbine M2 1951.jpg )
104025 No. 104025 ID: 56190f hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
US M2 Carbine, an assault rifle, submachinegun or PDW?
The .30 Carbine metric dimensions are 7.62x33mm and that looks similar to the Sturmgewehr 44's 8mm Kurz' 7.92x33mm round, but the .30 Carbine has a thin case more akin to a pistol cartridge, not a fat bottlenecked assault rifle case like the 8mmK. The .30 Carbine round is more comparable to the .357 Magnum (9x33mmR) pistol cartridge in performance.
A standard .30 Carbine ball bullet weighs 110 grains (7.1 g); a complete loaded round weighs 195 grains (12.6 g) and has a muzzle velocity of 1,990 ft/s (610 m/s), giving it 967 ft·lbf (1,311 joules) of energy when fired from the M1 Carbine's 18" barrel. A .357 Magnum cartridge fired from an 18" rifle barrel, which can have a muzzle velocity range from about 1,718–2,092 ft/s (524–638 m/s) with energies at 720–1,215 ft·lbf (976–1,647 J) for a 110 gr (7.1 g) bullet at the low end and a 125 gr (8.1 g) bullet on the high end. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.30_Carbine
14 posts and 10 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 104072 ID: 56190f
File 149617176942.jpg - (200.93KB , 2186x960 , US WW2 M1A1 Carbine w paratrooper carry case 4.jpg )
>> No. 104073 ID: 56190f
File 149617178939.jpg - (220.25KB , 1967x1154 , US WW2 M1A1 Carbine w paratrooper carry case 5.jpg )
>> No. 104074 ID: 56190f
File 149617399643.jpg - (516.78KB , 1214x578 , US WW2 M1 Carbine w paratrooper carry case 1.jpg )
>> No. 104075 ID: 56190f
File 14961740808.jpg - (1.28MB , 3000x1655 , US WW2 M1 Carbine w ammo pouches 1.jpg )
But is the attached ammo pouch uncomfortable when aiming?
>> No. 104124 ID: 0876ee
Its not uncomfortable at all. My only complaint is that it seems to move around a little too much for my tastes, but I can see the combat value. Ended up taking the mag pouch off my M1 carbine and putting it on my single shot .22, where it sufficiently holds 2 50 round boxes of .22, or a bunch of loose ammo for high speed reloads. Its a pain in the ass to keep bending over to grab another round of .22 at your feet when standing, and the pouch fixed that problem really well.

No. 104032 ID: 5ae8a3 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
6 posts and 3 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 104096 ID: a8dbe2
I'd choose a melee weapon myself if I was a noguns. When I was 10, I used to sleep by the broken front door of a crackhouse with a knife in hand just in case anyone came in.

However, not completely discounting the bow if that's his preference. If you set up a good ambush, it's not a bad option. Especially if you huddle in the corner of your room with 911 on speaker.

There's also the psychological effect. Imagine being one of 2 crackheads breaking into a house. Your buddy opens a door to a bedroom and next thing you know you hear a thunderous CRACK and your buddy collapses with either a shaft sticking out of him or the arrow sticking in the wall behind him, depending on your poundage. Bows are louder than people think, especially in a house in the middle of the night with a heavy poundage.

I would shit myself.

I want to get a bow again, my new backyard is perfect for it. I have a Hank Hill alley!
>> No. 104097 ID: 13f512

The Kestrel is apparently a really baller as fuck bow. It's interesting due to its hybrid design.

The league of assassins apparently has the PSE Chaos AD as its standard issue.
>> No. 104098 ID: c9069c
  Clearly what the OP is looking for is a Chinese "Chu Ko Nu" repeating crossbow.

It can be stored loaded and ready to fire. Has a gravity feed box magazine containing as many as ten bolts. Can produce a reasonable rate of fire. Perhaps the OP won't be drilling eye sockets at 100 meter, but for home defense the accuracy should be plenty acceptable.
>> No. 104099 ID: a8dbe2
  You didn't post a budget.
>> No. 104100 ID: 587b99
  A Dream Came True: Home Made Full Auto Crossbow! https://youtu.be/tbKGjRoSofA

File 149568711168.jpg - (3.00MB , 4032x3024 , 20170525_003644.jpg )
104036 No. 104036 ID: 815268 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
Haters gonna hate
7 posts and 4 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 104084 ID: 56190f
  Mossberg + Aguila mini shell + adapter = solved https://youtu.be/zsiyLkZtW-E
An introduction to my adapter I designed and had made that allows Aguila mini shells to function reliably in a Mossberg 500 series pump 12 gauge shotgun

Aguila 12 gauge 1" Minishells https://youtu.be/zi2sjO7yH3g
>> No. 104085 ID: 56190f
  Serbu Super Shorty with mini shells https://youtu.be/ZyRLMOsEJkI
Testing out the Aguila mini shells in the Serbu Super Shorty Shotgun. They don't chamber reliably unless you put the weapon at an extreme cant when extracting and chambering. The shells are so small they tumble around.
>> No. 104086 ID: 56190f
File 149651763043.jpg - (385.52KB , 2448x3264 , bullets, shotgun Aguila Minishells slug, buckshot,.jpg )
Aguila Minishells - slug, buckshot, & birdshot.
>> No. 104087 ID: 56190f
File 149651765388.jpg - (559.02KB , 3264x2448 , bullets, shotgun Aguila Minishells slug, buckshot,.jpg )
>> No. 104092 ID: da39fa
I own an (apparently discontinued? There was a lawsuit or something, I'm not sure but it's not for sale anymore, it's a weird situation) ATI TACSX2 which is one of those Turkish-made semiauto shotguns and when I was able to get my hands on some Aguila minishells (birdshot) it cycled them reliably (this was after the break-in period). That was only two boxes though, I just can't get minishells locally.

I've read that Winchester 1300s can reliably feed the rounds, as well as 1897s.

File 147960520728.jpg - (131.98KB , 813x360 , 200803_P1.jpg )
101876 No. 101876 ID: 1e7323 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply] [Last 50 posts]
I've decided it's time to build a precision rifle and start building up a better technical understand of long range shooting. I'm working my way through TiborasaurusRex's series if anyone else is interested.

In my part of the country, there are no ranges over 300 yards in any reasonable driving distance, but I'd still like to invest long term for if/when I move for a rifle 1-2 MOA at 600+ yards. I don't (currently) rifle hunt, so this is purely a long range target project. I'm relatively new to the precision field so I'd like some sanity check on my choices. Budget is flexible here but I'd like to stay in the neighborhood of $750-1000.

Caliber: .308 / 7.62x51
It seems to have acceptable BC and kinetic energy at 1000 yards. Frankly I'm most interested in ammo availability. I don't reload yet so being able to find match grade locally is a good bonus. If anyone has a preferred match brand, I'd like to hear it.

Rifle: Savage Model 10T
I've really liked the AccuTrigger and seems a popular base for "budget" long range builds. The version with detachable magazines is $100 more but does not seem particularly important to me. A threaded barrel would be more interesting if I had access to private land to shoot with a suppressor, but since I can only shoot at public ranges I'm using earpro anyways.

Rifle (alt): Ruger American
The initial reviews seem positive and it's $100 cheaper than the Savage. Played with one at the fun store and the trigger felt better than expected (can be adjusted down to 2.5# even). Budget isn't that tight so if the Savage is generally better, so be it.
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>> No. 102581 ID: 3f7131
File 148572161181.jpg - (2.53MB , 3948x2961 , IMG_20170129_141914.jpg )
Not to necro my own thread but I finally got the rifle put together and zero'd for 100 yards with XM80C. Final build is the Savage 110 FCP, PA 4-14 FFP 44mm scope on an Armalite unibody mount. Bipod is a no-name Chinese one I stole off my .22 (for now) and I picked up an American Mountain Supply squeeze bag which is great. Total cost is still <$1000.
>> No. 102582 ID: 3f7131
File 148572175361.jpg - (2.16MB , 3904x2928 , IMG_20170129_142023.jpg )
Picture doesn't demonstrate it but the PA scope is very clear and plenty bright for my needs. I have no real experience with nicer scopes so my opinion here is pretty useless, but I like it so far.

I'm shooting about 1.5 MOA at 100 yards if I'm doing my job. I'm positive the rifle can do better, so now it's on me.

Anyways, thanks for the advice guys.
>> No. 102584 ID: 9dcda2
File 148573236124.jpg - (50.49KB , 500x500 , hornady-80926-308-winchester-by-hornady-155-gr-bth.jpg )
Sweet. Now time to figure out what kind of ammo the gun likes. My RPR really likes the 155gr Hornaday Steel Match. The Prvi Partizan Ammo match and PMC X-Tac were meh. Federal GMM 168 works as expected.
>> No. 104079 ID: 19518e
File 14963639116.jpg - (801.29KB , 2162x929 , 300setup.jpg )
Not to necrojack this, but I'd like to discuss something I've only really seen mentioned a few times in stuff like 6mmBR articles, related to >>101888 >>101887.

How do you guys set up rifle balance? I didn't want to make the Savage build any heavier for the longest time, but the rear end is a little too nervous so I put a bit of lead in the stock, now the balance is about an inch and three quarters ahead of the front of the action. Not sure when I'll get to shoot it again, but it feels a lot better now. I used to think "rifle is heavy enough no need to make it heavier", but it seems that it isn't so simple.

Furthermore, it also slings normally. Before it was hard to carry in any way because of the awkward weight distribution, muzzle up it would fight to point down, and muzzle down it's too likely that it'll eat dirt or smack a rock or something due to the length when navigating steep terrain; picture related was not a walk in the park, nobody wants to muzzle rock quarry ground going up jagged ditches. Weird as it is to admit, as it sits now with bipod, scope and something like 5lbs of lead in the stock, it's nicer to carry. Total weight with all the trimmings clocks in at a hair under 20lbs.

tl;dr discuss rifle balance/weight distribution for long distance rifle'ing, what is the balance point on your precision guns?
>> No. 104080 ID: 19518e
File 149636592631.jpg - (602.38KB , 2048x1536 , IMG00259-20130515-1938.jpg )
>inch and three quarters
Derp, just three quarters. Basically right where the barrel nut is.

In any case I can't wait to shoot it now, even if the price of factory has gone up from 42$/20 to 64(to easily 85 depending of flavor)/20 since last I bought some. I got handloads to cook up, but I always try to have at least one common factory load zero written down and chronographed in case I run out of some component and have trouble finding it. Pic pretty related, it was a while ago but I was invited to a thousand yard shoot a bit last minute and had no handloads. The Hornady match 195gr BTHPs performed very well.

But NOFUCKINGBODY has them up here. Every store has Hornady 180gr Superformance usually around 60ish/20, so I might just go with that for my next outing and chrony it/write down zero offset compared to handloads since it does shoot well and it is incredibly common. Fuck it ain't cheap but I can take a small inkling of comfort that I didn't go with something like .338 Lap.

File 149443912653.jpg - (411.43KB , 2008x3008 , DK Waterloo 001_ - Copy-P50.jpg )
103744 No. 103744 ID: 813f6b hide watch expand quickreply [Reply] [Last 50 posts]
So, I recently went to visit the Waterloo Memorial 1815 museum. Thought I'd post some pics.

The Waterloo 1815 museum was recently expanded, and since the entire area surrounding the battlefield is considered a "protected" site, they chose to build the entire museum underground. Which is kinda neat.
77 posts and 77 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 103828 ID: 4d69b8
File 14945025002.jpg - (93.07KB , 2000x1005 , antique flintlock UK Baker rifle 1800 to 1838 6.jpg )
>> No. 103829 ID: 4d69b8
File 149450296879.jpg - (1.06MB , 2048x1320 , antique flintlock UK Brown Bess 2nd Model Short La.jpg )
$ 6,950.00
An Antique Revolutionary War British 2nd Model Short Land Brown Bess Military Flintlock Musket pattern 1769/1777. 41.75",. 80 cal. barrel with remnants of standard PROOFS struck on the top of breech. Standard pattern brass regulation furniture. Long Land pattern 1756 lock in good mechanical working order. Stock is solid with an old repair around the lock and side plate; some chip loses from the upper edges of fore-end; brass nose cap is missing; worn, scratches and dings from years of service. Visible 'STORES KEEPER' mark on the right side of the comb of stock. The steel ram rod is most likely an American made hand forged replacement. Musket comes with the correct bayonet.

Note; this is one of the primary weapons used in the American Revolutionary War. These muskets are becoming harder and harder to find in any condition ! https://tortugatrading.com/products/american-revolutionary-war-british-2nd-model-short-land-brown-bess-flintlock-musket-pattern-1769-1777
>> No. 103835 ID: 813f6b
>An unrifled Baker??? That defeats the purpose of having a Baker!

I guess people might use it as a wall hanger. ;)
>> No. 103888 ID: 9315da
>>The lion is a dutch one
>> It is facing Paris, reminding it not to try that shit again.

That's cool. Didn't know there was a large museum dedicated to the battle. Just one more thing I'd like to see someday.
>> No. 104021 ID: 9dcda2
Good shit dude.

File 148684605217.jpg - (14.57KB , 650x223 , z-m_lr300-2000.jpg )
102722 No. 102722 ID: 1519ac hide watch expand quickreply [Reply] [Last 50 posts]
Hey WarPlanRed, could you post some pictures of your lr-300esque build? Specifically the gas key, recoil spring setup, and bolt carrier? I stupidly didn't save them when you first posted them. Thanks bro.
46 posts and 16 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 103803 ID: f11f4d
Interesting, according to this http://hybris.cms.henkel.com/medias/sys_master/root/h40/h15/9112834539550.pdf it should have been fine to use on aluminum (despite the basic pH of 10.6)
If you have any bits of aluminum left from the project and are still curious, you might try giving them a test in the cleaner, with and without the cleaner/degreaser.
>> No. 103804 ID: 19518e
The cleaner in there was diluted, and possibly had contaminants from the day shift that could have tainted the part. It could have been the heating function, but it doesn't get anywhere boiling...

Either way I'm not too concerned, mostly curious.
>> No. 103843 ID: 3a8aee
you could always make a test piece (a machined block or something with a similar surface finish to the part that changed colour) and leave it the cleaner extra long to see what happens. Consider it a "worst case scenario" test or do it just for giggles.
>> No. 103845 ID: f11f4d
File 149455408338.jpg - (25.14KB , 689x328 , aluminum color degradation UV light.jpg )
Ah, didn't see the picture before I posted. Yeah, that's not nearly as bad as I thought. I was expecting something more along the lines of what happens when cheap dyes are used to color aluminum, that then proceed to leach out from bad sealing or break down under UV light. Pic related. Which was confusing the hell out of me because your piece wasn't dyed.

I think your contaminants theory is likely correct, as anodizing is great at picking that sort of thing up.
>> No. 103847 ID: 19518e
File 14946067416.jpg - (770.37KB , 3480x1300 , tests.jpg )
First block is control, second is 1 hour in left-over contaminated day shift natural blue cleaner (unknown concentration), third is 1 hour in fresh 10% natural blue, last is 1 hour in tap water.

I think it might be the water. The tap water at work isn't fit for drinking, we have water coolers and bottled water for drinking, it usually smells and I don't know what's in it exactly. Could sulfur stain aluminum? There is sometimes a rotten egg smell from the tap water.

Monday I might use bottled water and run another block one more hour. All other variables were kept pretty steady, same temp on the machine, blocks were in the same spot too.

No. 103656 ID: 1989a8 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
  For a modest price of 7500$ you too can see the legend come back to life!
42 posts and 30 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 103740 ID: bec165

I felt insulted when their hits at 100m seem like some unobtainable achievement. I mean, I guess the RMR on my Roland could be considered cheating, but it really isn't that big of a deal to get hits on steel at 100m, with some practice and understanding of your sight picture at that distance of course.

I was about to close the video when I saw Rob Pincus, I closed it when I saw "hydrostatic shock".

If SVI can make a 100% barstock billet 1911 or 2011 for less money than this with the same accuracy guarantee, wtf are they doing?

Yes, for $7500 you could have a grade 9 titanium 1911 made (with microwelded tool steel rails to eliminate galling) that generally will shoot .5" groups or better with AET rifling.

Or hell, you could start a Korth collection, or two SVIs, or multiple forged in the halls of Mount Doom custom 1911s that I promise you have better attention to detail and craftsmanship than this does.

Btw, Les Baers are rather well priced (bit above some of the better production guns like the Colt Rail Gun, Springfield TRP, Dan Wesson Valor).
>> No. 103741 ID: 19518e
All those guns you mentioned are things that are already proven, all the plans and tooling are already done, to quote the post you linked to
"...riding a hundred year wave of Browning's legacy. 1911s are understood in every way"

All those manufacturers just have to make what is already made and do it with attention to detail and closer fits. It's like doing a cover of a song when everybody and their mothers have the music sheets and the instruments, SVI/les baer/everygucci1911brand just comes in, picks up the guitars and microphone, and plays the same old song.

The accuracy ends up being the same, but FK has to write a new song from scratch, that's the actually complicated and expensive part.

Yes their marketing is annoying as hell and going "wow we're amazing hitting stuff 100 yards nevah been dun befoh muh hydroquantumshox see we can use buzzwords too".
>> No. 103742 ID: 1989a8
Doesn't hydrostatic shock become relevant when the projectile goes above 2000 fps? FK only has 2000 fps at the muzzle though. On the other hand, it dropped an elk without vertebra damage which is very impressive if it wasn't staged.
>> No. 103743 ID: 19518e
I'm no terminal ballistician, but from what I understand "hydrostatic shock" is damage to some types of tissues and/or organs from a large enough temporary cavity caused by a projectile. The size of the temporary cavity is related to the projectile's weight, diameter, speed, upset (tumbling), expansion or fragmentation. This temporary cavity, if large and violent enough, can increase the trauma and physiological shock to the target beyond the permanent cavity. I remember reading theories of nervous system damage from this temporary cavity effect, but I can't say I know if it was speculation or confirmed by legitimate scientific process. I do imagine, all else being equal, a larger temporary cavity would probably hurt more but pain is an extremely unreliable factor in incapacitation of a creature at best.

12 gauge slugs are very large, heavy, made of soft lead, and from what I know, can create very large temporary cavities regardless of the relatively slow velocity (well under 2000ft/s) of the projectile. Conversely, the 223 with a proper bullet can also impart devastating damage beyond what one would expect from a small projectile.

In the case of most handguns, there is neither weight or speed sufficient to do anything but look impressive in a gel test. Gel and high-speed cameras can make basically anything look like the new wonderbullet is like a high explosive autocannon round. From Fackler's reports, yes the general speed required to have enough energy to make temporary cavity matter is around 2000ft/s, but bullet weight and construction (expansion, tumbling, fragmentation) are important factors in this rule of thumb.

Hunters have been taking large game with smaller calibers for a long time, with a bullet that can go deep enough, I would imagine that countless medium-to-large animals have been taken with lever actions in modest chamberings assuming shot placement was good. Hunting is often anecdotal and very case-by-case, the animal's reaction to being shot can never really be predicted with perfect accuracy. Maybe they shot a dozen game before landing on the one elk that just gave up after getting a hole poked in it. There's a video of some guys shooting a small doe with a 50BMG and it taking a football-sized scoop right out the exit side, and the doe still ran for a few seconds. There's plenty of videos of hunters sack-of-potatoes-drop on larger animals with a whole lot less than the 50BMG, like 357 Magnums.

The 7.5 round is basically a 30 carbine round (as if shot from a long barrel) from a pistol barrel. Whatever you can kill with an M1 carbine, you could do with the 7.5 from the pistol.
>> No. 103747 ID: 1989a8
I'm just saying that an aproximately 100 grain bullet goes into the target at supersonic speeds so their claims of effective hydrostatic damage may not be a just marketing meme. No amout of accurate or meme marketing claims justifies that fucking price tho. Would be interesting to see if they make any actual military AP ammo for it and how will it look if they do.

File 149419029948.jpg - (634.41KB , 1536x2048 , IMG_0185.jpg )
103708 No. 103708 ID: e9af5c hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
Does anyone know of a double rifle chambered in 454 casull that accepts 45 colt and .410?
4 posts and 3 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 103713 ID: 4d69b8
File 14941924386.jpg - (1.56MB , 4492x2073 , pistol Brazilian Taurus Raging Judge Magnum _410, .jpg )
>> No. 103714 ID: 4d69b8
File 149419268048.jpg - (43.00KB , 900x900 , pistol Brazilian Taurus Raging Judge Magnum _410 7.jpg )
7 shot Raging Judge .410 Speed Loader is made from solid billet aluminum looks quite nice.
>> No. 103715 ID: 4d69b8
File 149419287596.jpg - (49.53KB , 900x900 , pistol Brazilian Taurus Raging Judge Magnum 6 shot.jpg )
6 shot Raging Judge .454 Speed Loader
>> No. 103717 ID: e9af5c

I've seen those, but a double rifle that has usage for big and small game would just be handy. Pedersolli (I think that's how you spell it) has a new production double barrel 45 long colt with chambers long enough for .410, all in a pistol format. A stock with 454 and longer barrel could really suit my needs (wants).
>> No. 103719 ID: b70387
File 149420315570.jpg - (73.95KB , 1900x756 , 233S_890-S892.jpg )
And here's one by Pedersoli.

File 14941571354.png - (501.52KB , 2048x1536 , IMG_1524.png )
103685 No. 103685 ID: 2a93dd hide watch quickreply [Reply]
>> No. 103690 ID: 13f512
>> No. 103701 ID: 9dcda2
The moment I saw KDG's Kinect system, I knew M-LOK was the winner.

File 149300538319.jpg - (3.14MB , 2766x1808 , 20170423_223202-1.jpg )
103605 No. 103605 ID: d5bb74 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
Help me operators!

Having ejection issues with a romy G build. Every spent case gets stuck in the dust cover/ action.. Pull the dust cover off and run it and it shoots and cycles fine. About a five o'clock ejection at about 5-7yrds. This has only began within the last two hundred rounds. Had the gun for years and it always ran great.

Included are pictures of the ejector with obvious peening on the face. Im fearing this might be the issue. What does everyone think?
15 posts and 9 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 103626 ID: 8c968b
how long have you had this thing? The ejector looks suspiciously beat, like shit has chipped off on the corner. I don't know if it is enough to effect the function but even on my relatively high round count AK's, it doesn't look like that. It is smooth with a shiny spot where the case has been hitting.

That aside, if you have another working AK handy. You should try and compare the position of the ejector's front face to that one. I had a very VERY troublesome AKS74 that always had ejection issues (stovepipes mostly). The ejector was sitting way back compared to the ejector on my other AK. I had to grind off the spot welds and re-weld on a new ejector rail further up (didn't know how to weld/have a welder at the time, other than a spot welder). It works great now.
>> No. 103635 ID: 6a7d74
Owned it nearly two years now.less than 700rounds through it by me.I suspect the damage is from the bolt hitting it and just being a cheaper or bad heat treated rail.
>> No. 103644 ID: 813f6b
>I suspect the damage is from the bolt hitting it

I think you'd feel it in the bolt if that were the case.

>or bad heat treated rail.

That appears to be the most likely suspect in my opinion.
I guess you also mostly shot steel cased? Not that there's anything wrong with that, but that might have sped up the wear.
>> No. 103646 ID: 6a7d74
Its definitely the bolt. Can see light wear marks on the bolt from where it makes contact.
>> No. 103666 ID: 05187c
careful welding the extractor, I did and had to file it just right, otherwise my ak wouldnt eject at all.

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