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PBE Shield Stickers and Deagle Boltface Patches On Sale Now!

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103340 No. 103340 ID: 220d82 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
I've seen a few of these in various shops in Texas. I believe these guys are based in Spring, TX.

They make some very wild designs, very skeletonized, and have a wide variety of crazy colors. I saw one that was done in the colors of a Dr. Pepper can, for example. White, blue, all kinds of stuff. Image is their 'Old Glory' model.

These things look hella fun, but are they worth a shit? Company claims to have the most modern tools, incredible tooling precision, etc.

Anyone have experience with one of these things?
2 posts and 1 image omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 103345 ID: 813f6b
I wonder how much gas leakage there would be and if it's more annoying than on a classic AR15? Probably wouldn't want to run one suppressed I'd imagine.
>> No. 103350 ID: f11f4d
I've never really understood the skeletonizing upper/lower receivers either. There's really nothing on them to remove without compromising the integrity of the gun.
If a guy wants to spend money weight savings, then he should look first and foremost at the barrel, then at the optics/mounts. I also wouldn't mess with the bolt carrier groups either, as that is a direct and poorly tested change to reliability.

I do wish aluminum sleeved barrels were more of a thing. Last I checked the ones from Lothar Walther were around $800 which is "just buy a different gun" territory.
>> No. 103362 ID: d73b58
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>holes escape rather than fragment
I don't know...
>> No. 103363 ID: d73b58
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>> No. 103402 ID: 9dcda2
Heh, yeah do that with a non-milled tube and see what happens.

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103322 No. 103322 ID: f34d3f hide watch quickreply [Reply]
I was wondering if anyone had manufacturing specs for various firearms specifically the Browning M2. The more the better though.
>> No. 103326 ID: 13f512
You might browse through /z/.

Don't build anything illegal.

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103155 No. 103155 ID: 0f04c4 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
I recently acquired a 12 gauge Remington Model 11 from 1928 w/ a 26" barrel and Poly-Choke. She's a little rough around the edges and a true working girl. I'm going to chop her down, but I can't decide how. Do I take her back to 18.5" and tube extend'er, AOW ala Bonnie and Clyde "Whippet" (see pic), or keep the stock and chop the barrel one shell length north of the mag tube?

My safe has other shotguns for hunting and home defense; this was more of a spur-of-the-moment, let's do something fun and different for a change acquisition.
10 posts and 9 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 103171 ID: 19518e
That thing is S E X Y.
>> No. 103176 ID: 181cef



Also isn't there some fiddling you have to do to the gas system on these (Model 11 and A4s) to make them cycle correctly when you chop the barrel?
>> No. 103177 ID: 6057a8
Model 11s should be long recoil, the gun might cycle a little harder with less barrel, but IIRC these guns have friction rings to adjust cycling. Not sure a bit less barrel it'll make that much difference to begin with, the front end of a shotgun barrel doesn't weigh that much.
>> No. 103217 ID: f11f4d
>Barrel is same length as magtube
I will always love this for some reason.
>> No. 103276 ID: 0f04c4
Much to the disappointment of my wife, an Auto 5 and another Model 11 followed me home from a semi local show. The guy was highly motivated to move them which made me leery, but after getting them home and scrubbing them down, I feel my purchase was a deal.

The new Model 11 requires a new recoil spring, trigger spring, and main spring retaining screw.

The Auto 5 is functional the way it is but could use new furniture (a couple cracks and chips) and a friction ring.

After I get them all up and running I'll take them out, see which patterns the best, and keep that one in it's original configuration. The other two though... Chop! Chop! I'm thinking one 18.5" with mag extension and the other SBS.

Not bad for a grand total of $600 for all three shotguns. Well, so far...

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102412 No. 102412 ID: cdc490 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
For some inexplicable reason, large bore snub nose revolvers are the most aesthetically pleasing handgun to me. I know in my head that they're ugly, but in my heart, there's just something about them...

Pic is a cut down Colt 1917 in .45acp. It looks like the kind of thing a depression era gambler would stuff in his coat.
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>> No. 102628 ID: 0f04c4
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Or maybe even Fitz'd?
>> No. 102631 ID: a5ad5d
File 148607482151.jpg - (236.25KB , 1350x728 , pistol US Smith & Wesson 1937 Custom 3_5 _45 D.jpg )
1937 Custom 3.5 with Ken Driskill Stags and a Brazilian badge.
>> No. 102636 ID: 8a2fe4
Lately, I've been dreaming about a Fitz'd S&W 24. .44 special really does seem like the best cartridge for the concept (big bullet, relatively easy shooting), but do you really want to do that trigger guard modification? I get it, but... Jesus Christ.
>> No. 103166 ID: 0f04c4
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>> No. 103168 ID: 0f04c4
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*heavy breathing

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98059 No. 98059 ID: a615a8 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply] [Last 50 posts]
Not long ago I picked up a Gen 2 G17 with a lot of miles on it for, if not a song, then a few pages from an old songbook.

I took it to the range, and the first thing I noticed was lots of ejection problems. A Glock armorer looked at it and said the factory recoil spring guide was broken, the recoil spring--possibly non-original--was crusted with carbon and had bits of scaly rust falling off it, and also had a nasty bend in the middle; he also said the extractor plunger was put in the wrong way, preventing the extractor from pivoting properly.

One Glock factory recoil spring and a reinstalled extractor plunger, I took it to the range. And got brass to the face, more than 50% of the time. If it doesn't hit me in the face, the brass barely trickles out of the ejection port and falls at my feet.

I asked the gunsmith and he said that since the cartridges were coming out, it wasn't an extractor problem, and that maybe the ejector was worn.

One factory replacement trigger housing with ejector, plus new factory extractor spring, plus new factory extractor later... the gun still gives me brass to the face over half the time, with four different kinds of factory ammo.

A second gunsmith said that I was "limp wristing the gun," because muh Glock perfection. I do not, incidentally, have this problem with other handguns I own. This was at another establishment that had an indoor range, so I invited him out to shoot it himself. It gave him brass to the face over half the time, then he let me shoot the last mag out of it while he watched. I'm not limp-wristing it, but it gives me brass to the face over half the time, including one that hit the magic angle to drop over the back side of my shooting glasses to give me a nice blister on my left eyelid.

He hemmed and hawed and said that the gun is "old" (it has all new springs in it, including a new Zev trigger) and that maybe the factory recoil spring is too much and maybe I should chop a dozen or so coils off it (what about muh Glock Perfection?) and that maybe I should shoot only the hottest surplus 9mm SMG ammo I can find in it--only it's 2016 and war surplus subgun ammo isn't really a thing any more.

So, is there anything else to do with the gun? Sell it cheap on Armslist? Trade it in on something else? Wait for the next mass-shooting panic sellers' market and try to get my money back out of it?
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>> No. 99055 ID: 3f2708
I'm not sure how closing a slide on a loaded mag would be any easier than closing a slide with no mag. That said, I wouldn't be surprised if the guns were new and needed to break in a bit.
>> No. 99059 ID: 86d09e
>I'm not sure how closing a slide on a loaded mag would be any easier than closing a slide with no mag.

Because it tends to be the mag spring which pushes up the slide lock in most designs? On a loaded mag, there would be no mag spring pressure on the slide lock as the bullets prevent the follower from engaging with the slide lock.

Personally, I always sling shot in stress situations and usually only use the slide lock for manual lock backs.
The exception being my Beretta 87 Target, which has a huge slide lock lever and is easy as hell to operate (and reach).
>> No. 99069 ID: 3f2708
>I'm not sure how closing a slide on a loaded mag would be any easier than closing a slide with no mag.
I know how the magazine follower and the slide release interact.
>> No. 102897 ID: 7c3c05
wize fwom ya gwave!

Due to an excess of RL stuff, it was only a few weeks ago that I finally got the chance to send the pistol back to Glock.

They shipped it back the same day they received it, with a letter saying they replaced ejector, extractor, extractor spring, firing pin, striker, disconnector, and gave me a new replacement for the beat-up factory Glock mag I sent with the gun.

I took it to a range, fired 150 rounds, and got brass to face, again.

I asked around and it was suggested that I try Winchester "NATO" 9mm, which is apparently pretty stoutly loaded. With Winchester "NATO" 124gr ball ammo it lofts the spent brass over my head instead of smacking me in the face. It has been recommended that I shoot an additional 500-1000 rounds so that the ejector, extractor, and recoil spring can wear in and the ejection pattern can change to something more consistently away from my face. In the meantime, I've found that some production lots of Tula steelcase 9mm mimic the ejection pattern of the hot "NATO" ammo, so that is what I will be using for practice in the hopes of breaking the gun in and making it somewhat usable.

It's still annoying, and most of my preferred 9mm defensive loads are 147gr (Gold Dot, Ranger-T), which have a softer recoil impulse and are in this particular gun more prone to giving me brass-to-face.
>> No. 103156 ID: 50c102
I fixed my Gen 3 G19 brass to face by buying a Gen 4 trigger housing with ejector, pulling out the Gen 4 ejector with my fingers (some guys use tape covered pliers), and transplanting it into my Gen 3 trigger housing. No more brass to face even with mousefart plinking loads.

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102916 No. 102916 ID: 8c869c hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
Fudds with glocks.
7 posts and 1 image omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 102929 ID: aadd02
It's a pretty easy habit to get into when the consequence of a mishap is BLOWING YOUR FUCKING COCK OFF!
>> No. 102935 ID: 028b36
>> No. 102936 ID: 028b36
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This is why you get a Kydex/leather hybrid holster

It's neat holster but I rather carry one extra round in the chamber
>> No. 103140 ID: 0876ee
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Folks, this is why y'all gotta get yourself a springfield XD. Not only is it made by an AMURICAN company instead of Yerepeeans, but it has a grip safety just like my 1911 (its a kimber, i carry it every day) so you dont accidently shoot yerself unlike those dangerous plastic commie guns. what kind of cheap bastard doesnt have a safety on his carry gun?
>> No. 103142 ID: 9dcda2
You should have renamed the image to HS2000.jpg for more irony.

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103062 No. 103062 ID: ecc980 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
Did these kind of firearms go straight from being muzzleloading caplock guns to using brass cartridges?

I can't find any info or even videos on breechloading elephant guns that used self-contained paper cartridges. I dont think I can find any pics or stats on weight, price for the era, muzzle velocity, etc.
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>> No. 103089 ID: 2001f3
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And this...this is the double, same manufacturer. Using again the Jones-patent underlever action, mated to a pair of 30" barrels (1:48" twist, 1.326" bore diameter), four 13oz mercury recoil reducers in the maple stock. Finished weight 44 pounds, though this one was built to the specifications of a particular customer. Stolzer believes with some modifications to the design (shorter, more tapered barrels being the main aspect), that could be reduced to about 32 pounds...which is still heavier than a Barrett M107, and about the same as the heavier M82A1.
>> No. 103090 ID: 628641
If my math is correct... and I think it is... 3500gn x2 = 1 lb. of lead in two shots.
>> No. 103093 ID: 2001f3
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That's precisely correct, because a 2-bore (or 2-gauge) by definition fires a half-pound lead ball. Gauge or bore refers to the number of lead balls of a diameter to fit the gun's bore can be cast out of a pound of lead. Eg. a 12-gauge round ball is 1/12th of a pound.
>> No. 103125 ID: c5b6f2
While looking for Stoplossed's lightweight AR thread, I came across another Bat Guano elephant gun thread.

Dagnabbit Bats.

>> No. 103128 ID: 74c131
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Yeah, an old elephant gun thread mentioned here:

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103091 No. 103091 ID: ad8094 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
Through trading and selling I have a Mossberg 500 JIC (gen 1 I guess, the green one) everything minus the shotgun. What are some suggestion to keep in it? Beside the obvious... a shotgun

Also a general prepping thread
8 posts and 4 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 103102 ID: 1611fc
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A lot of it really depends on how bad things get, and how long they stay that way. If things are bad enough for long enough, eventually guns are going to become easier to come by than ammo. In such a case, having a box or two of a few of the more common calibers that you don't actually already have a gun for certainly won't hurt. As long as you're not sacrificing adding to your primary stocks in order to pick up outliers.

Pic somewhat related.
>You got a guuuunnn.....well shit, it ain't loaded. Eh...They never are.
>> No. 103103 ID: 16a605
>22lr conversion BCG.
Are fine for practice and plinking. If you need reliability and accuracy, you need a dedicated .22lr upper.
>> No. 103106 ID: 813f6b
>Are fine for practice and plinking. If you need reliability and accuracy, you need a dedicated .22lr upper.

And a conversion BCG does nothing to prevent fouling everywhere.
Dedicated upper (or separate gun) is really what you want.
>> No. 103107 ID: 19518e
>dedicated 22LR upper
>22LR conversion BCG

For survival stuff, honestly, I would either forgo the BCG and have a Ruger MKwhatever, or have a 22LR rifle. The pistol will be about the size and weight of the BCG kit with 22 magazines, yet be more reliable, more accurate (with a steady hand), and will keep the rifle in good clean shape when 223 medicine is required. If you can spare more than that, such as an upper, or if you think you'll need more than 22LR pistol practical accuracy, jump straight to a Marlin 795 or 70PSS or 10/22 Takedown. Although I lean to the Marlin rifles for various reasons, a comparable 22 rifle will be close in size/weight to the upper, and be very practical for all situations in need of 22LR when a pistol wouldn't be as effective.

I'd rather have a Ruger MKwhatever and zip-tie some pool flotation foam to it. It'll be more accurate, more reliable, more durable, smaller, and lighter overall. The AR7 to my mind was a decent idea, but so poorly executed that it is mostly self-defeating. Marlin and Ruger takedown models perform brilliantly and do what the AR7 wanted to do without being that much heavier or bulkier. Remember that although the AR7 sounds compact, when you hold one, it really ends up being like a fucking Michelin-Man rifle; puffed out and comically lumpy from having to stuff itself in its own stock.

Then there's the Browning carbine things. I've always wondered if one could be offered with a removable stock setup to basically do an effective pistol-becomes-rifle job. I know that putting a stock on a pistol in the USA is a legal problem, but with paperwork or if we are in a survival situation, this issue could be irrelevant.
>> No. 103127 ID: 206ed5
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I had a lengthy reply writtend own but forgot about it... doesn't matter. This will interest folks like you. Get your own tanks:


50k$$$ for a T-72 doesn't even sound that bad. If I had the land I'd buy one, restore it, built a parcour for it and let midlife crisis dads ride a tank for an hour. Sounds like a sound business to me.


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103109 No. 103109 ID: d8fc32 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
I've had this for about 12yrs stashed away in a box. Any ideas on the country of origin?
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>> No. 103111 ID: d8fc32
File 148995670360.jpg - (1.82MB , 2576x1932 , 20170319_133547.jpg )
Stamp on the other. It looks like a sword through a gear, with S E on either side of the sword in the gear. I can't quite make out what it says under the gear though
>> No. 103112 ID: d8fc32
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Lug hole
>> No. 103113 ID: d8fc32
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>> No. 103114 ID: f5c3ed
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>Toledo Military Spanish INI Rifle Bayonet Sword Knife & Scabbard

>> No. 103115 ID: 9790ae
That was a quick reply,thanks for taking the time to help me.

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103021 No. 103021 ID: cad48c hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]

Looks like a much more DIY-friendly idea for rifling barrels has cropped up. Might merit some experimentation / refinement by some of the locals, and certainly on my extended to-do list.

Makes me miss the STEM board.

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>> No. 103055 ID: 19518e
Damn that's small, you got any better pics?
>> No. 103056 ID: 7c3c05
I can't even imagine how you do that. Did you build a really tiny Bridgeport mill as the first step? Seriously, that's impressive.
>> No. 103057 ID: 1b9ff7
File 148937313237.jpg - (0.96MB , 3456x2592 , IMG_0835.jpg )
it's not that hard. Behold my workhorse, and old WW2 pattern lathe of dubious origins!
Threading his done with a die held in the hand and the slot in the head is made with a special file, called a slotting file.
>> No. 103058 ID: 19518e
What thread is it? It looks quite a bit smaller than a 0-80...
>> No. 103060 ID: 1b9ff7
good question. The die set is packed away god knows where now, but it does not use metric or US standards for thread pitch. It's probably close to a metric 0.5x0.125

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