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File 156022762620.png - (177.59KB , 340x246 , 001.png )
108917 No. 108917 ID: 4fa264 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply] [Last 50 posts]
I'm hasgun again, but not the one I want. My k-frame is gone. Somewhere between my idiot sister-in-law and her idiot baby daddy, that one was "lost." Fuck, I hope someone pawned it. Better than losing a fucking firearm.
Anyway, the one returned to me was my back-up/fuck around piece, a Jimenez Arms .22 I purchased new a few years ago. It didn't work that well. I took it to the factory (they're close), they worked on it, and surprise! No difference! From what I've read online, the thing to do is sand and polish the innards, and I figured that's worth trying, but a lot of variables there. What grit should I use? Should I just use steel wool? What kind of polishing compound? Feed ramp and slide rails of course, but anywhere else I should hit? Seems like it could be a fun little project, and if I completely fuck the thing, who gives a shit? It's a Jimenez.
50 posts and 34 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 109021 ID: 218cb4
File 156168292531.png - (710.69KB , 1600x708 , pistol US Smith & Wesson Model 41 _22LR 7_4-in.png )
109021
US Smith & Wesson Model 41 .22LR 7.4-inch target pistol
Introduced in 1957. With an extra 5" barrel, extra barrel weight, and extra walnut target grips.
https://www.rockislandauction.com/detail/1033/4607/smith-wesson-model-41-target-pistol-with-extra-barrel
>> No. 109022 ID: c917a1
File 156168296067.png - (587.02KB , 1600x708 , pistol US Smith & Wesson Model 41 _22LR 7_4-in.png )
109022
>> No. 109023 ID: 21a46d
File 156168345476.jpg - (487.86KB , 3071x2047 , pistol US Smith & Wesson Model 41 _22LR made a.jpg )
109023
US Smith & Wesson Model 41 .22LR made around 1970
>> No. 109024 ID: c917a1
File 156168351829.jpg - (572.25KB , 3887x2591 , pistol US Smith & Wesson Model 41 _22LR target.jpg )
109024
>> No. 109025 ID: c917a1
File 156168354153.jpg - (588.72KB , 3887x2591 , pistol US Smith & Wesson Model 41 _22LR target.jpg )
109025


No. 108999 ID: 6affc4 hide watch quickreply [Reply]
  he


File 156065166583.jpg - (92.69KB , 1200x800 , BCM-URG-SS410-20SAMR-KMR-A-15-2.jpg )
108951 No. 108951 ID: 419c96 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
So I've been putting together an 20" upper and optic combo with the intent of making a DMR type of gun. I've got the upper and optic sorted out but my bipod choice is giving me trouble.

I went with the BCM SS410 20" with the SAM-R profile barrel and their M-Lok handguard because I've standardized on M-Lok. I went with the Magpul bipod. My problem is that the barrel is thick, along with the gas block, and/or the handguard is so trim that there isn't enough room between the inside of the handguard and the barrel or underside of the gas block for the bipod to lock it in. Trying to move it back to a slot clear of the gas block and I run into the problem of the barrel itself being so thick there isn't clearance between the M-Lok attachment screws.

I know Vltor makes a two-piece bipod that could possibly attach on the sides but they aren't M-Lok. Does anybody have any other suggestions for bipods that are M-Lok attach and they mount to the sides of the handguard instead of at the bottom?
2 posts and 2 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 108956 ID: 9dcda2
File 156072716187.jpg - (21.32KB , 978x550 , opplanet-leapers-utg-recon-flex-m-lok-bipod-matte-.jpg )
108956
https://www.opticsplanet.com/leapers-utg-recon-flex-m-lok-bipod.html

The slightly less expensive route would be the UTG side mounts. No idea as to the quality, but UTG is pretty well known for being poverty tier.
>> No. 108957 ID: 9dcda2
File 156072796979.jpg - (2.36MB , 3264x2448 , scar with legs.jpg )
108957
Another shot of the VLTOR modpod legs on the SCAR 17. Back when bullet buttons were a thing in California.

The 17 is currently a bolt action rifle (with gas system removed) until I can fix the stock, wrap the pistol grip, and swap the FSC for a non flash hiding muzzle brake.
>> No. 108988 ID: f5c3ed
>>108956
>UTG is pretty well known for being poverty tier.
Not even. I had some airsoft guns and accessories by them when I was in middle school circa 2004. And even they couldn't hold up to walking around in the woods for a few hours every weekend in the summer.

But, I have a morbid curiosity about their US made accessories now...
>> No. 108989 ID: 419c96
Thought I'd let y'all know I did a bit of a work around. Rather than going with an airsoft bipod or shelling out £330 for that neat top-mounted model, I trimmed down the screws on the M-Lok attachment so that they don't contact the barrel. I still had to use the next slot back from the gas block because the little rotating piece itself is too thick to fit between that and the handguard. While it's not a whole lot of clearance between the barrel and the screw, it's clearance.
>> No. 108995 ID: 9dcda2
>>108989
Sweet. Post pics.


File 156010840673.jpg - (1.49MB , 2656x1494 , 20190609_150956.jpg )
108888 No. 108888 ID: e56201 hide watch quickreply [Reply]
Does anyone know where I can find a 30mm cantilever scope mount lower than the typical AR height? They all seem to be around 1.4" - 1.5" from the rail to the CL of the optic. I was using the optic from my AR while I waited for a scope to come in, and the LT-104 it's in is really too high at 1.5". No one seems to make a lower cantilever except super expensive ones like spuhr, nightforce, etc.
>> No. 108963 ID: b32d05
i have nothing helpful to say, but that's a sweet rig you got.


File 155996714073.jpg - (2.44MB , 4272x2848 , IMG_2202l2.jpg )
108866 No. 108866 ID: 0fd95c hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
I've been collecting information regarding Japanese small arms cartridges for a few years now, trying my best to sort out all the confusing Type designations. I still consider this a work-in-progress and I am still hoping to fill in some f the gaps in my collection.

Japanese Handgun Cartridges

The first modern handgun adopted by the Japanese military was the Smith & Wesson No.3 Russian revolver. The Type 26 officially replaced the aging Smith & Wesson revolvers still in service in 1893 but some of the older .44’s still remained in military stocks until the end of WWII - though most of the ammunition had degraded to the point of being nonfunctional. In addition to the .44 S&W Russian, there were also privately purchased handguns in military service chambered in 7.63x25mm Mauser, 7.65x21mm Parabellum and .32 ACP.

1- The .32 ACP was likely the most popular foreign handgun caliber in Japanese service. This was used in private purchase Colt, FN and Mauser .32 caliber pistols as well as domestic designs like the Hamada.
•Average loading used a 71gr bullet with a muzzle velocity of 905 fps.
2- The 7mm Nambu was introduced around 1902 for the Type B ‘Baby’ Nambu pistol. It was produced until the end of WW2 despite the relatively low number of pistols made for this cartridge.
•Average loading used a 56gr bullet with a muzzle velocity of 1050 fps.
3- The Type 26 revolver was the only handgun to use the 9mm Japanese revolver cartridge. It was adopted in 1893 and served until the end of WWII.
•Average loading was a 149gr bullet with a muzzle velocity of 639 fps.

4, 5 - The 8mm Nambu was used in the 1902, 1904, Type 14 and Type 94 Nambu pistols. It was also used in the Type 100 submachine gun. There were a few experimentals such as the Hino-Komura pistol and the Type I and Type II submachine guns. Most bullet jackets were cupronickel but in WWII the shift was made to gilding metal jackets.
•Average loading used a 103gr bullet with a muzzle velocity of 984 fps.
Message too long. Click here to view the full text.
44 posts and 35 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 108945 ID: eb9dbe
>>108940
I'm slightly confused as to how that's much worse than the external trigger bar on a Beretta 92.
>> No. 108946 ID: c917a1
  >>108945
Does it cause the pistol to negligently or unexpectedly discharge?
I had a WW2 Walther P.38 and she had a trigger bar outside of the frame that didn't cause me any problems.
M9 Trigger problem Repair https://youtu.be/w8a_67nAdyI
>> No. 108948 ID: 9dcda2
File 156051911933.png - (1.29MB , 1920x1080 , disasm_2019_06_14_09_19_52_141.png )
108948
>>108945
Screenshot from World of Guns on Steam. The Beretta trigger bar is pulled forward by the trigger and trips the sear. The trigger is a lever that gives your finger some mechanical advantage to pull the trigger bar forward.
>> No. 108949 ID: 9dcda2
  FF to 1:37.

The sear bar on the Type 94 directly operates the striker, and pivots inward, where your holster could push it in.
>> No. 108950 ID: 9dcda2
  FF to 0:40

The Luger actually has the same issue, except that the sear bar is covered by the trigger side plate in normal operation. But if left loaded, it can be fired with the slide and frame separated.


File 155980909771.png - (122.27KB , 614x445 , Screenshot_2019-06-01_22-48-22.png )
108853 No. 108853 ID: b6e91c hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
So a problem with some revolvers in .38 special or .357 magnum is that they can be really snappy and thus less accurate on followup shots. This goes extra for snubbys.
Now the point of revolvers that have the barrels on the bottom of the gun like Matebas or Rhinos is that they distribute the recoil in a way that yields less barrel rise, making follow up shots more easy and accurate.
And the point of the .327 federal magnum cartridge was to get similar power to the .357 magnum but with less recoil.

So WHY THE FUCK has NO gun company (or at least some nerd with a CNC machine) combined these two technologies to create an under-barrel .327 federal magnum revolver? Why? And if you chopped it down, you'd have the lowest recoil possible revolver with that kind of powerful cartridge! How has this not happened already?
9 posts and 7 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 108869 ID: b6e91c
>>108854
Waaaaait wait wait.
MORE powerful than .357 magnum? Now I'd assume .327 federal magnum is more powerful than .38 special without thinking about it very long, but more powerful than .357 magnum? No way, that can't be right.
>> No. 108870 ID: 419c96
I'd be more interested in a 44 Magnum or even a .454 Rhino. People choose big bore revolvers for protection against dangerous game and faster follow-up shots there could mean the difference between life and death and they wouldn't mind the weight.
>> No. 108871 ID: c917a1
File 156003172080.jpg - (164.10KB , 1500x816 , pistol US Ruger Super Blackhawk (New Model) _44 ma.jpg )
108871
>>108870
A favorite .44 Magnum revolver is the Ruger New Model Super Blackhawk single-action. They are available in 3.75" barrels to 10.50" with very beefy frames. I have a 5.5" and she is a nice 6-shooter. Far more handy than my massive Ruger Super Redhawk scoped 9.5" .44 Magnum double-action.
>> No. 108872 ID: 9dcda2
File 156003240062.jpg - (103.10KB , 640x640 , glock-43-vs-sig-p365.jpg )
108872
>>108853
> So WHY THE FUCK has NO gun company (or at least some nerd with a CNC machine) combined these two technologies to create an under-barrel .327 federal magnum revolver?

Because revolvers are obsolete. I shot a small revolver in .327 and it was alright. .38 snubbys are pretty unpleasant. And .357 snubbys...

http://snubnose.info/docs/sp101_2.htm

> Have you had the chance to fire off one of these ultra-air-light-feather weight pocket revolvers? Using a full house .357 Magnum load? If you haven’t, do this; put your Concealed Carry Magazine down, stand up, walk outside to your car or truck and open the hood… and then slam it down on your firing hand. Quite unpleasant.

The Chiappa Rhino does a pretty good job in .38 but is a bit harsh in .357. If I need a gun to specifically shoot from a jacket pocket, a 2" rhino would do the job. If I needed a compact gun for defense, I'd go for a Glock 43, 43x, or Sig P365 any day, because they can actually be reloaded in a reasonable amount of time.
>> No. 108875 ID: 48ddd0
  >>108872
I found the 2" Rhino .357 surprisingly mild to fire with very little muzzle flip. Well, compared to my double-barrel .410 shotgun Derringer or other .38 lightweight snub-noses.

Glock 43 9mm [Review]: Concealed Carry Perfection? https://youtu.be/c5rukFfZ7bo


No. 107456 ID: f5c3ed hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
  Decided to test some reloads, story to follow with pics when I have the time to post later.
18 posts and 11 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 107483 ID: f5c3ed
Had the opportunity to test my reloads in an M9 this morning. The primers bulged a little indicating my reloads are too hot. I have 250 rounds left, I may still run them in my carbine and lesson learned load lighter next time. Anyone know if a CZ 75b can handle +P loads?
>> No. 107484 ID: 6ca38e
>>107482
I used to have to push their polymer lowers when I worked in a gun shop. Chinciest shit ever. Cheap and lightweight, but very little aftermarket worked in it and they'd often crack at the pivot pin.

I just have a visceral reaction to their name now, especially when coupled with PSA.
>> No. 107485 ID: e35b40
>>107484
This. Our shop got a ton in after Sandy Hook and once the panic died down we couldn't give them away.
>> No. 107491 ID: f5c3ed
File 153102320174.png - (511.67KB , 826x364 , Capture.png )
107491
I just noticed this about 0:37 in to my video when showing it to a friend. Appears to be a flash in the hand guards. Is this normal for PPC ARs? It makes sense that there could be unburned powder burning every so often out of the unused gas port, but how typical should this be?
>> No. 108818 ID: b774b1
I figured this out last year but I forgot to post (like I do for a lot of things). My cartridge overall length was too short, bullet was pressed in too far causing the pressure to be excessive. Simple as that. I handloaded another 500 rounds of 125gr LRN with a COAL closer to the specs in my Speer Vol. 13 book. Zero issues in my carbine, no bulged primers in my dad's M9. Also ran in my CZ without issue. I want another 9mm handgun. That is all.


File 151537899348.jpg - (1.81MB , 3591x852 , P1066153.jpg )
106706 No. 106706 ID: 19518e hide watch expand quickreply [Reply] [First 100 posts] [Last 50 posts]
There's a machine gun thread a while ago but I felt like I should start a specific thread for firearms fed by belts.

Mostly because of this MG34 that followed me home.

Since this really is the first rifle of this type that I've had to play with, I'm a little out of my element. This is a TNW semi-auto only 7.92x57 and I wouldn't mind learning everything I can about this particular piece.
106 posts and 65 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 108788 ID: 6fe1bd
File 155862795276.jpg - (26.12KB , 450x285 , 37-german-mg34-in-action.jpg )
108788
>>108786
Ahhh I see, that does make more sense, I'm still learning the intricacies of the MG34,thank you for clearing that up.

Would there be ways of adjusting the feed pawl travel to help it position the belt better? Of course it would have to be done carefully to prevent issues once the belt is almost empty and isn't resisting the pawl movement as much...
Maybe it's just a matter of pulling the starter tab for a bit or supporting the loaded belt at the beginning as seen here with the lad next to the gunner.
>> No. 108790 ID: 6fe1bd
File 15586339222.jpg - (421.37KB , 1056x700 , blue34.jpg )
108790
Outing planned later today. I've hardened the S7 sear and "sear ring" to the best of my very limited abilities, dry tests are promising. I'm also trying out this Microlon Ultrablue on the bolt carrier and sliding surfaces of the top cover components. There's also a thin layer on the bolt/bolt carrier camming surfaces. Having dry tested before and after, there was a noticeable improvement regardless of my dislike for unicorn dust snake oil. This blue stuff might actually be worth it. It's a very very light grease and so far it seems to be good stuff.

I'll bring my Doppler radar and my buddy is bringing his historically unimportant K98, we'll test that Russian ammo. I have ~400 rounds so I'll grab three from every other box and try it until I'm satisfied that it won't hurt mein fräulein.
>> No. 108793 ID: bbee29
File 155881692773.jpg - (1.04MB , 2360x1968 , huuurrrr.jpg )
108793
Welp I fucked up but it wasn't a complete loss.

>drive 3 hours to nice spot
>get there
>remember that radar battery is on charger
>at home

I did remember to bring plenty of the usual PPU and I discovered a very weird thing. I had a .413" booster in, and the gun wasn't running too well. Stovepiping every ~3 rounds. I thought that it might be cycling a little slow, so I put in a tighter booster. The gun ran a bit better, 1 stoppage every ~7 rounds or so, so again I thought maybe it needs a bit tighter booster. Then I noticed I'd mixed up and put in a LESS restrictive booster, the .430" one. So it ran better on a booster with a bigger port. So I went up a step, to my most open booster, a .450" one. Again, the gun ran more reliably, but still not perfectly. So I removed the booster entirely and was getting it to 1 malfunction per belt on average.

No booster at all was the most reliable, the malfunctions were also always stovepipes, and those were happening MORE as the gun ran harder. This seems to indicate that the action is still running a bit too fast with NO booster.

I don't think it's the ammo, PPU is 3-ply soft load ammo. My firing pin spring is pretty stiff, and really detonates the primers properly, so I don't want to mess with that. The harder the firing pin spring, the slower the action should drive as it cocks on opening. Maybe the Ultrablue is TOO good and I should use a thicker grease to slow the gun down? Could my barrel return spring be way too light? Even then that particular spring probably doesn't do that much to slow the action down. I am confus pls halp.
>> No. 108794 ID: bbee29
In all I ran 200 rounds of PPU and the kitchen heat-treat S7 of the sear and sear ring show no signs of wear at all. All I did was heat them to bright orange, almost yellow, keeping them at that temp for 30 to 45 seconds. I then plunged them into cold water, shaking them in a figure 8. I found that you must have the water very close to the parts so the parts spend virtually no time out of the heat, the parts hardened successfully when the flame was 2" above the water and the movement to shove them in the water was as quick as possible.

I know this type of thing is not proper heat treat, but so far it has worked. I think the awesome chemistry of S7 steel is making up for my horrible shortcomings in heat treat method and equipment.
>> No. 108795 ID: 9dcda2
>>108793
Sucks about the battery, but at least you got some interesting data about the recoil boosters.

> All I did was heat them to bright orange, almost yellow, keeping them at that temp for 30 to 45 seconds. I then plunged them into cold water, shaking them in a figure 8.

M1903 approved.


File 155854191819.jpg - (29.89KB , 739x628 , 1bde23a.jpg )
108785 No. 108785 ID: 9ef7c5 hide watch quickreply [Reply]
im stuck on this vidya atm called rising storm 2 vietnam, it has potential but its nothing to write home about

anyway, im wanting to make a mod for it where instead of 32 vs 32 us army against nlf/pavn it would be 7-9 leet sog operators vs 50+ lightly armed charlies, and the SOG guys have to reach checkpoints through the map while charlie zerg rushes, with sog respawns done in a left4dead fashion of reaching a checkpoint to trigger respawns.

to get to the /k/ part of this post im looking for ideas on arming the SOG team, since they are going to be so outnumbered i want to give them extra firepower eg china lake or the starlight nv scope. i was really hoping for a hand portable flame thrower ala the aliens ripley thing because the game already has flame mechanics with a ww2 era flamethrower, but i want to err on the side of reality so if it didnt exist ill nix it.

pasting the list i wrote up, let me know what you think:

pointman
xm177, m3/suppressed,12ga, m2/starlight *sidearms*: hushpuppy, .45, hipower, LAW

mg
stoner 63, m60, rpd *sidearms*: hushpuppy, 45, hipower

engy
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>> No. 108787 ID: 9ef7c5
File 155856633359.jpg - (65.22KB , 800x575 , 139003752022.jpg )
108787
i also want to do a good guy vs good guy map, like LRRP dudes in helicopters vs rogue SOG dudes who also use the vc traps. this would be a lot easier to do with the sdk than my original post but it would still be fun with the right map, or just recycling one of the more favored existing maps.

i think i would also add the folding stock ak to most roles and the scoped mas49 to sniper/dm because theyre already in the game
>> No. 108791 ID: 04d80a
File 155870579683.jpg - (151.07KB , 768x1024 , Swedish Carl Gustav m-45 (Swedish K) SMG in Vietna.jpg )
108791
Make sure to include the Swedish Carl Gustav m/45 9x19mm kulsprutepistol (bullet-spraying pistol, aka Swedish-K) or the Smith & Wesson M76 clone. In the early days of the US involvement in the Vietnam War, US special forces and CIA spooks used the Swedish-K as it was a good, reliable SMG and it was not US-made so captured weapons could not directly implicate US involvement (but who do they think they were fooling?).

Plus, this is one of my favorite Vietnam War-era guns.

During the Vietnam War, the US Navy SEALs used the m/45 extensively. One of the gun's qualities which appealed to the US Navy was that the m/45 can fire almost immediately out of the water (over the beach). It also saw use by CIA operatives and advisers. The US Navy was so impressed by the m/45 that when Sweden embargoed the export of weapons to the United States in 1966, Smith & Wesson was given the task of producing a copy. This was designated the Smith & Wesson M76. However, by the time the M76 was ready for combat deployment, the US Navy interest had largely evaporated. Many of the m/45s used by US forces and agencies were devoid of markings, implying clandestine use ("sanitized"). https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carl_Gustav_m/45
>> No. 108851 ID: 9ef7c5
File 15597387516.jpg - (67.14KB , 513x352 , seal_mk_22_with_ammo_and_suppressor_internal_wipe_.jpg )
108851
turns out the suppressed m39 could only go for 2 mags before the can internals had to be replaced, pic related wikipedia told me NSW sent new guts with every 26 rounds. So, probably going to put that one on the backburner. couldnt find a neato flamethrower either so thats out.

Uzi, Sten, MAC10 and swedish K, with suppressors for the first three. Remington 1148 for the 12ga, or the Ithaca 37 included in the game

The big toys will be the LAW and 40mm pump. The LAW will p be based on the RPG7 already in the game, so that might be tough to get correct we'll see

Stoner 63 and M60 shorty, maybe RPD shorty

starlight scope, M16 scopes, a combat knife, colored smokes

Oh and probably some incendiary grenades, and melee tools for the attacking vc's


File 155829783782.jpg - (611.91KB , 2284x889 , IMG_8856.jpg )
108729 No. 108729 ID: 0fd95c hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
I had a chance to handle one of these recently and took a few photos.
24 posts and 24 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 108755 ID: e9dc13
File 155831006896.jpg - (259.57KB , 1584x982 , Russian WW2 SVT-40 captured by a German troooper 2.jpg )
108755
>> No. 108756 ID: aa52e9
File 155831014987.jpg - (195.46KB , 1600x1106 , Russian WW2 SVT-40 captured by a German troooper 3.jpg )
108756
SVT-40 captured and being used in the Battle of Stalingrad.
>> No. 108757 ID: 04d80a
File 15583111121.jpg - (82.34KB , 770x512 , Russian WW2 SVT-40 semi-automatic rifle 'stic.jpg )
108757
And imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.
Such as with this Italian Pavesi prototype SVT copy in 8x59 Breda...
http://www.operatorchan.org/k/res/98094.html#101594
https://www.forgottenweapons.com/pavesi-prototype-svt-copy-video/
>> No. 108758 ID: f46323
File 15583119039.jpg - (3.70MB , 5777x2810 , German WW2 Walther Gewehr 43 aka K-43 w scope 1.jpg )
108758
The Walther Gewehr 43 was the Nazis’ answer to the superlative American M1 Garand. A gas-operated design actually pirated from the Soviet SVT40 self-loading rifle, the G43 was relatively lightweight and offered fast and reliable semiautomatic fire from a detachable ten-round box magazine. Though the magazine was tidy and removable, German Infantrymen were typically only issued two spares and fed the gun instead via standard five-round stripper clips from the top. These strippers were the same sort that fed the bolt-action Kar98k.
The G43 was later designated the K43, but the two weapons were otherwise identical. The G43 included a short length of cleaning rod underneath the barrel. Several soldiers would pool their cleaning rod segments to make a single usable tool.
The rear sight of the G43 was a sliding tangent, while the front sight was a fixed hooded barleycorn. The leather sling mounted on the left side. The safety was a rotating lever at the back of the receiver. A sheet steel re-ceiver cover helped keep the action clean from battlefield crud.
G43 rifles were intended to be issued at the rate of 19 rifles per Infantry company, along with ten separate ZF-4 sights and mounts. Allerberger fired all the new rifles his unit received and selected the most accurate for marksmen rifles. The scopes and mounts were then matched to their host rifles and marked by hand with the gun’s serial number.
https://www.swatmag.com/article/wehrmacht-sniper-lessons-eastern-front/
>> No. 108759 ID: 0fd95c
File 155831593412.jpg - (3.38MB , 4272x2848 , IMG_2083.jpg )
108759
>>108750
Good to see you're still around as well. The collection has grown quite a bit, it is near 3100 cartridges at present. This was a photo I took back in January of the pile that had accumulated which I still needed to sort and catalog.

>>108752
While we did not have the opportunity to shoot this one and it would be of questionable wisdom to do so as the stock exhibited at least two cracks, SVT-38's handle and shoot much like the later SVT-40's. Most of the differences lie in the design of the stock and hand guards, the placement of the cleaning rod and the function of the magazine catch. I did find the SVT-38's mag catch seemed a bit more fiddly than those on the SVT-40 which may have had a hand in why it was redesigned. These two magazines were very snug fits but that can be the case with SVT-40's as well since the locking lug occasionally needs fitting to the individual rifle.


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