https://www.opticsplanet.com/leapers-utg-recon-flex-m-lok-bipod.html

The slightly less expensive route would be the UTG side mounts. No idea as to the quality, but UTG is pretty well known for being poverty tier.

Another shot of the VLTOR modpod legs on the SCAR 17. Back when bullet buttons were a thing in California.

The 17 is currently a bolt action rifle (with gas system removed) until I can fix the stock, wrap the pistol grip, and swap the FSC for a non flash hiding muzzle brake.

>>108956
>UTG is pretty well known for being poverty tier.
Not even. I had some airsoft guns and accessories by them when I was in middle school circa 2004. And even they couldn't hold up to walking around in the woods for a few hours every weekend in the summer.

But, I have a morbid curiosity about their US made accessories now...

Thought I'd let y'all know I did a bit of a work around. Rather than going with an airsoft bipod or shelling out £330 for that neat top-mounted model, I trimmed down the screws on the M-Lok attachment so that they don't contact the barrel. I still had to use the next slot back from the gas block because the little rotating piece itself is too thick to fit between that and the handguard. While it's not a whole lot of clearance between the barrel and the screw, it's clearance.

>>108989
Sweet. Post pics.

i have nothing helpful to say, but that's a sweet rig you got.

>>108940
I'm slightly confused as to how that's much worse than the external trigger bar on a Beretta 92.

  >>108945
Does it cause the pistol to negligently or unexpectedly discharge?
I had a WW2 Walther P.38 and she had a trigger bar outside of the frame that didn't cause me any problems.
M9 Trigger problem Repair https://youtu.be/w8a_67nAdyI

>>108945
Screenshot from World of Guns on Steam. The Beretta trigger bar is pulled forward by the trigger and trips the sear. The trigger is a lever that gives your finger some mechanical advantage to pull the trigger bar forward.

  FF to 1:37.

The sear bar on the Type 94 directly operates the striker, and pivots inward, where your holster could push it in.

  FF to 0:40

The Luger actually has the same issue, except that the sear bar is covered by the trigger side plate in normal operation. But if left loaded, it can be fired with the slide and frame separated.

>>108854
Waaaaait wait wait.
MORE powerful than .357 magnum? Now I'd assume .327 federal magnum is more powerful than .38 special without thinking about it very long, but more powerful than .357 magnum? No way, that can't be right.

I'd be more interested in a 44 Magnum or even a .454 Rhino. People choose big bore revolvers for protection against dangerous game and faster follow-up shots there could mean the difference between life and death and they wouldn't mind the weight.

>>108870
A favorite .44 Magnum revolver is the Ruger New Model Super Blackhawk single-action. They are available in 3.75" barrels to 10.50" with very beefy frames. I have a 5.5" and she is a nice 6-shooter. Far more handy than my massive Ruger Super Redhawk scoped 9.5" .44 Magnum double-action.

>>108853
> So WHY THE FUCK has NO gun company (or at least some nerd with a CNC machine) combined these two technologies to create an under-barrel .327 federal magnum revolver?

Because revolvers are obsolete. I shot a small revolver in .327 and it was alright. .38 snubbys are pretty unpleasant. And .357 snubbys...

http://snubnose.info/docs/sp101_2.htm

> Have you had the chance to fire off one of these ultra-air-light-feather weight pocket revolvers? Using a full house .357 Magnum load? If you haven’t, do this; put your Concealed Carry Magazine down, stand up, walk outside to your car or truck and open the hood… and then slam it down on your firing hand. Quite unpleasant.

The Chiappa Rhino does a pretty good job in .38 but is a bit harsh in .357. If I need a gun to specifically shoot from a jacket pocket, a 2" rhino would do the job. If I needed a compact gun for defense, I'd go for a Glock 43, 43x, or Sig P365 any day, because they can actually be reloaded in a reasonable amount of time.

  >>108872
I found the 2" Rhino .357 surprisingly mild to fire with very little muzzle flip. Well, compared to my double-barrel .410 shotgun Derringer or other .38 lightweight snub-noses.

Glock 43 9mm [Review]: Concealed Carry Perfection? https://youtu.be/c5rukFfZ7bo

Had the opportunity to test my reloads in an M9 this morning. The primers bulged a little indicating my reloads are too hot. I have 250 rounds left, I may still run them in my carbine and lesson learned load lighter next time. Anyone know if a CZ 75b can handle +P loads?

>>107482
I used to have to push their polymer lowers when I worked in a gun shop. Chinciest shit ever. Cheap and lightweight, but very little aftermarket worked in it and they'd often crack at the pivot pin.

I just have a visceral reaction to their name now, especially when coupled with PSA.

>>107484
This. Our shop got a ton in after Sandy Hook and once the panic died down we couldn't give them away.

I just noticed this about 0:37 in to my video when showing it to a friend. Appears to be a flash in the hand guards. Is this normal for PPC ARs? It makes sense that there could be unburned powder burning every so often out of the unused gas port, but how typical should this be?

I figured this out last year but I forgot to post (like I do for a lot of things). My cartridge overall length was too short, bullet was pressed in too far causing the pressure to be excessive. Simple as that. I handloaded another 500 rounds of 125gr LRN with a COAL closer to the specs in my Speer Vol. 13 book. Zero issues in my carbine, no bulged primers in my dad's M9. Also ran in my CZ without issue. I want another 9mm handgun. That is all.

>>108786
Ahhh I see, that does make more sense, I'm still learning the intricacies of the MG34,thank you for clearing that up.

Would there be ways of adjusting the feed pawl travel to help it position the belt better? Of course it would have to be done carefully to prevent issues once the belt is almost empty and isn't resisting the pawl movement as much...
Maybe it's just a matter of pulling the starter tab for a bit or supporting the loaded belt at the beginning as seen here with the lad next to the gunner.

Outing planned later today. I've hardened the S7 sear and "sear ring" to the best of my very limited abilities, dry tests are promising. I'm also trying out this Microlon Ultrablue on the bolt carrier and sliding surfaces of the top cover components. There's also a thin layer on the bolt/bolt carrier camming surfaces. Having dry tested before and after, there was a noticeable improvement regardless of my dislike for unicorn dust snake oil. This blue stuff might actually be worth it. It's a very very light grease and so far it seems to be good stuff.

I'll bring my Doppler radar and my buddy is bringing his historically unimportant K98, we'll test that Russian ammo. I have ~400 rounds so I'll grab three from every other box and try it until I'm satisfied that it won't hurt mein fräulein.

Welp I fucked up but it wasn't a complete loss.

>drive 3 hours to nice spot
>get there
>remember that radar battery is on charger
>at home

I did remember to bring plenty of the usual PPU and I discovered a very weird thing. I had a .413" booster in, and the gun wasn't running too well. Stovepiping every ~3 rounds. I thought that it might be cycling a little slow, so I put in a tighter booster. The gun ran a bit better, 1 stoppage every ~7 rounds or so, so again I thought maybe it needs a bit tighter booster. Then I noticed I'd mixed up and put in a LESS restrictive booster, the .430" one. So it ran better on a booster with a bigger port. So I went up a step, to my most open booster, a .450" one. Again, the gun ran more reliably, but still not perfectly. So I removed the booster entirely and was getting it to 1 malfunction per belt on average.

No booster at all was the most reliable, the malfunctions were also always stovepipes, and those were happening MORE as the gun ran harder. This seems to indicate that the action is still running a bit too fast with NO booster.

I don't think it's the ammo, PPU is 3-ply soft load ammo. My firing pin spring is pretty stiff, and really detonates the primers properly, so I don't want to mess with that. The harder the firing pin spring, the slower the action should drive as it cocks on opening. Maybe the Ultrablue is TOO good and I should use a thicker grease to slow the gun down? Could my barrel return spring be way too light? Even then that particular spring probably doesn't do that much to slow the action down. I am confus pls halp.

In all I ran 200 rounds of PPU and the kitchen heat-treat S7 of the sear and sear ring show no signs of wear at all. All I did was heat them to bright orange, almost yellow, keeping them at that temp for 30 to 45 seconds. I then plunged them into cold water, shaking them in a figure 8. I found that you must have the water very close to the parts so the parts spend virtually no time out of the heat, the parts hardened successfully when the flame was 2" above the water and the movement to shove them in the water was as quick as possible.

I know this type of thing is not proper heat treat, but so far it has worked. I think the awesome chemistry of S7 steel is making up for my horrible shortcomings in heat treat method and equipment.

>>108793
Sucks about the battery, but at least you got some interesting data about the recoil boosters.

> All I did was heat them to bright orange, almost yellow, keeping them at that temp for 30 to 45 seconds. I then plunged them into cold water, shaking them in a figure 8.

M1903 approved.

i also want to do a good guy vs good guy map, like LRRP dudes in helicopters vs rogue SOG dudes who also use the vc traps. this would be a lot easier to do with the sdk than my original post but it would still be fun with the right map, or just recycling one of the more favored existing maps.

i think i would also add the folding stock ak to most roles and the scoped mas49 to sniper/dm because theyre already in the game

Make sure to include the Swedish Carl Gustav m/45 9x19mm kulsprutepistol (bullet-spraying pistol, aka Swedish-K) or the Smith & Wesson M76 clone. In the early days of the US involvement in the Vietnam War, US special forces and CIA spooks used the Swedish-K as it was a good, reliable SMG and it was not US-made so captured weapons could not directly implicate US involvement (but who do they think they were fooling?).

Plus, this is one of my favorite Vietnam War-era guns.

During the Vietnam War, the US Navy SEALs used the m/45 extensively. One of the gun's qualities which appealed to the US Navy was that the m/45 can fire almost immediately out of the water (over the beach). It also saw use by CIA operatives and advisers. The US Navy was so impressed by the m/45 that when Sweden embargoed the export of weapons to the United States in 1966, Smith & Wesson was given the task of producing a copy. This was designated the Smith & Wesson M76. However, by the time the M76 was ready for combat deployment, the US Navy interest had largely evaporated. Many of the m/45s used by US forces and agencies were devoid of markings, implying clandestine use ("sanitized"). https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carl_Gustav_m/45

turns out the suppressed m39 could only go for 2 mags before the can internals had to be replaced, pic related wikipedia told me NSW sent new guts with every 26 rounds. So, probably going to put that one on the backburner. couldnt find a neato flamethrower either so thats out.

Uzi, Sten, MAC10 and swedish K, with suppressors for the first three. Remington 1148 for the 12ga, or the Ithaca 37 included in the game

The big toys will be the LAW and 40mm pump. The LAW will p be based on the RPG7 already in the game, so that might be tough to get correct we'll see

Stoner 63 and M60 shorty, maybe RPD shorty

starlight scope, M16 scopes, a combat knife, colored smokes

Oh and probably some incendiary grenades, and melee tools for the attacking vc's

SVT-40 captured and being used in the Battle of Stalingrad.

And imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.
Such as with this Italian Pavesi prototype SVT copy in 8x59 Breda...
http://www.operatorchan.org/k/res/98094.html#101594
https://www.forgottenweapons.com/pavesi-prototype-svt-copy-video/

The Walther Gewehr 43 was the Nazis’ answer to the superlative American M1 Garand. A gas-operated design actually pirated from the Soviet SVT40 self-loading rifle, the G43 was relatively lightweight and offered fast and reliable semiautomatic fire from a detachable ten-round box magazine. Though the magazine was tidy and removable, German Infantrymen were typically only issued two spares and fed the gun instead via standard five-round stripper clips from the top. These strippers were the same sort that fed the bolt-action Kar98k.
The G43 was later designated the K43, but the two weapons were otherwise identical. The G43 included a short length of cleaning rod underneath the barrel. Several soldiers would pool their cleaning rod segments to make a single usable tool.
The rear sight of the G43 was a sliding tangent, while the front sight was a fixed hooded barleycorn. The leather sling mounted on the left side. The safety was a rotating lever at the back of the receiver. A sheet steel re-ceiver cover helped keep the action clean from battlefield crud.
G43 rifles were intended to be issued at the rate of 19 rifles per Infantry company, along with ten separate ZF-4 sights and mounts. Allerberger fired all the new rifles his unit received and selected the most accurate for marksmen rifles. The scopes and mounts were then matched to their host rifles and marked by hand with the gun’s serial number.
https://www.swatmag.com/article/wehrmacht-sniper-lessons-eastern-front/

>>108750
Good to see you're still around as well. The collection has grown quite a bit, it is near 3100 cartridges at present. This was a photo I took back in January of the pile that had accumulated which I still needed to sort and catalog.

>>108752
While we did not have the opportunity to shoot this one and it would be of questionable wisdom to do so as the stock exhibited at least two cracks, SVT-38's handle and shoot much like the later SVT-40's. Most of the differences lie in the design of the stock and hand guards, the placement of the cleaning rod and the function of the magazine catch. I did find the SVT-38's mag catch seemed a bit more fiddly than those on the SVT-40 which may have had a hand in why it was redesigned. These two magazines were very snug fits but that can be the case with SVT-40's as well since the locking lug occasionally needs fitting to the individual rifle.

>>108688
>I doubt these politicians comprehend how much .455" I own.
Lucky!
I know people who collected British firearms and they were stymied by the difficulty in obtaining ammo for them. Not only the rarities like .476 Enfield, .455 Webly Auto, .577 Snyder, and so on, but plain-Jane .455 Webley.

For UK .577 Boxer, people use rare 24 gauge brass cut down and sized to a .62 case. Some home-loaders also cut down 24 gauge brass to 2" for homemade .577 Snyder, an interesting cartridge conversion of the Enfield muzzle-loading .577 rifled musket.

And good luck to those looking for Mars ammo.
Here's a display of British fodder for you:
http://www.operatorchan.org/k/res/107749.html#107754

  Some people really get into their gun and kit collecting...
The Mk III Snider-Enfield: Introduction https://youtu.be/DJ-f11hM4Sk

>>108369

U.S. MACHINE GUN T52E1 .30 (T65) SN# 6
Maker/Manufacturer: BRIDGE TOOL & DIE WORKS
Date of Manufacture: 1949-1952

U.S. MACHINE GUN T52E1 .30 (T93E1) SN# 8
Maker/Manufacturer: BRIDGE TOOL & DIE WORKS
Date of Manufacture: 1949-1952

And the experimental T-44 machine gun developed from the German FG 42 and MG 42 machine guns.
U.S. MACHINE GUN T44 7.92MM
Manufactured by Bridge Tool & Die Works, Philadelphia, Pa. in 1946 - The gun is a conversion of the FG42 German, Light, Magazine Feed Machine Gun, with the belt feeding mechanism of the MG42 German, Belt Feed Machine Gun. The mechanical solution for the conversion was provided by the Bridge Tool & Die Works. The weapon is gas-operated blowback type combination; air-cooled; bipod supported; with forward handgrip and rear shoulder stock.
The receiver body in which the essential parts of the gun operate is a sheet metal fabrication. The barrel is permanently mounted into the forward end, and the receiver swaged circumferentially into a recess around the rear end of the barrel and secured by a locking ring, likewise swaged. The hinge member about which the feed mechanism rotates is welded to that portion of the receiver body directly rearward from the swaged area, thereby making the receiver body, barrel and hinge member an integral unit. Holding the receiver body in a normal firing position, there is an opening on the left-hand side running longitudinally from the welded hinge member for the length of the housing. This opening is bridged in one instance at a point located approximately 4" rearward from the hinge member by the ejector assembly. The resultant opening between the hinge member and the ejector assembly permit the receiver plate to position the shell cartridge for insertion into the barrel. Directly opposite this opening there is a similar small opening through which the cartridge cases are ejected. http://ww2.rediscov.com/spring/VFPCGI.exe?IDCFile=/spring/DETAILS.IDC,SPECIFIC=9554,DATABASE=objects