I have an old (stamped W. Germany) Sig-Sauer P220. It's a solid, classic design, but I just did not like the feel of the grips. I actually preferred the feel of my double-column .45s like my Tanfoglio Witness 10-shot and FNP-45 15-shot to the 220's 7-shot.

But if you like the feel and the weapon in general and have $450 burning a hole in your pocket, go for it.

>>107741
Personally, I'd pass on the DAK trigger. Save a bit more for a used P220 if you're set on a .45 Sig.

>>107741
Sure, $450 is a bangin' deal. My first gun was a CPO Sig 226 that I paid $650 a decade ago.

The DAK trigger is good for a DAO trigger, but that's still the best of the worst kind of deal.

For what you'd use a P220 for, shootan at the range, the surplus deal is fine.

It seems like a good deal and the DAK seems cool if you're into that sort of thing but legacy model Sigs don't really blow my skirt up, especially lower capacity 45 models.

It seems like you already have pretty much every other 45 base covered and you must have the money to blow, so why not?

test.

>>107741
>>107744
I have used sigs for years, and have probably handled almost every pistol they make. The DAK is something unique that I actually enjoy, but not for target shooting. because of the way the DAK works, you have a very very safe gun (I have attempted to induce a failure in the safety and was not able to)

the drawback naturally is that the DAK has somewhere around a 10 pound trigger (depending on which spring variant/generation/publication you use)

my advice to those who want a sig is to buy only ones made in germany (as exter is known for generally poor QC).

my personal recommendation is get something off the classic line which will allow you to get a wide variety of parts (many are interchangeable)

don't spend more than $600 though, 450-500 is a typical used price for the 225-229s

>>107868
Good advice, thanks! My dad owns a P228 made in Germany, very nice handgun. I'll wait a week and see if Aim still has these P220s available. I have 3 pay checks this months so it's the only reason I can justify another firearm. I see there are also some well reviewed aftermarket P220 mags for ~$20 from a company called ACT-MAG. I don't intend to get a light or IWB holster for it, unless I shoot it better than my M&P .45.

Hmm... should I go with the standard plus the hand pick fee for $460, or the shooter grade for $400? Would the extra $60 be worth it? Both are in mechanically good shape.

>>107888
You think you'll ever have it refinished? If so, why pay the premium?

If it were me, I'd say pay the extra $60. It's only $60.

>>107888
In my experience, the points for wear are usually:
>the magazine release pin breaks the side out
if this breaks, the frame is trash and cannot hold magazines
>the edge where the slide rides across the frame
does not seem to affect performance, but after several thousand rounds, I have seen some sigs develop cracks along the frame
>the hole that the trigger bar sits in
the trigger bar wears against the frame and eventually prevents the trigger from resetting properly with the slide removed, but does not seem to affect the trigger with slide installed

another thing that does not seem to affect the performance, but looks like poor QC is that many exter sigs have poor fitting slides that rattle to varying degrees and are really annoying

checking the night sights is also something you may want to do, since surplus LE sigs may have been dropped and have punctured tritium vials or may be expired. trijicon guarantees the sights for 12 years, but that does not cover damage, and the date of manufacture is stamped on the sight with a 2 digit year code.

>>107889
Good point. I guess I'll pay the extra $60 since I never intended on having it refinished.
>>107890
Thank you! These are definitely things I'll check for. I just emailed my FFL to get one on order with the best of 5 hand pick for $460. In total with my FFL's $25 handgun fee (NY paperwork) and the $8 to put it on my permit is $543.94 in the end of it all. Cost me less than my CZ-75B in total (a few bucks under MSRP after tax, fees, etc).

If you haven't ordered yet, I'd look at these DA/SA models from Sportsman Outdoor Superstore.

https://www.sportsmansoutdoorsuperstore.com/products2.cfm/ID/208957

They also have S&W 5906s, which are awesome and mostly unrelated to what you're looking for.

>>107892
I already ordered, and I already own a DA/SA CZ. I figured I'd give a DAO a try. Something different in the collection.

>>107893
Can't hurt to try it. I like the H&K LEM best of the DAO triggers I've tried. DAO third generation S&Ws are pretty good too.

I like it! Trigger isn't bad at all. Better than a nice revolver double action trigger. I'm definitely going to replace the worn grips eventually. No rust aside from a little on the rear sight. Should clean up easily.

When shooting with a thumbs forward grip, the slide won't lock back after the last round because my right thumb accidently hits the slide lock lever. Anyone else experience this with Sigs? I don't have this problem with my other handguns. Is there a recommend grip for Sigs?

>>107910
Nice!

Rust on the sights isn't surprising. I'm not sure why but the sights on every police trade-in gun I've seen were way more rusted than the slide. I guess when you're making such a small mass of metal and a part that's swapped out frequently, you can cheap out on the finish. When you're talking about a whole slide assembly, cutting corners on your finish would be an obvious and embarrassing.

>>107912
I "grew up" shooting the Sig 226, so that's part of the reason I shoot a thumb down grip*, not the thumbs forward grip everyone does.

Put your right thumb just like >>107910 With your left hand, crush your right. No 45% left 65% right nonsense. Hold the gun tight in your dominant hand, and hold the hand-gun assembly really tight with your other hand. Having your support palm in contact with the grip panel is also nonsense.

There's a couple of guns (Glocks and VP9 specifically) that have a little indent in the grip where your thumb goes.

* Certain guns I shoot thumbs forward. Specifically the CZ Shadow 2 and 1911s. Specifically to use the thumb safety as a rest.

There's one gun thumb down really doesn't work for and that's the Walther PPQ M2. I kept dropping mags while firing.

> bUt ThAts A rEvOlVeR gRiP!!111

Fuck off. Do what works for you. Also, I don't roast my thumbs accidentally with wheelgats.

>>107920
Also I'd like to point out that I just took a picture of my hands with no assistance. Figure that one out.

Thumbs forward grip for comparison.

Additional Czechnology. My buddy's P-10. It's pretty fucking good. Great trigger. Shortest reset and pull-after-reset of any striker fired gun I've tried. It's not quite Shadow 2 accurate, but pretty damn close. I thoroughly intimidated a branch on the 100 yard berm and even hit it a few times.

>>107920
Thanks for the advice! I'll give it a try tomorrow night
>>107921
Selfie stick between legs?

>>107920
>> bUt ThAts A rEvOlVeR gRiP!!111
I shoot revolvers with my left thumb across my right hand. Makes it very easy to cock the hammer without changing the grip. I see so many people try to use thumbs forward for a revolver, and they constantly break their grip to cock the hammer, especially for single actions.

>>107924

I've been taught to never break the grip of the shooting hand when shooting revolver, and to always use the offhand's thumb to sock the hammer if you want to shoot single action.

>>107912
The slide stop location is why I lost interest in SIGs and started shooting 3rd gen S&Ws and later, CZs. I'll take the slide safety on the S&Ws any day if it means the gun locks open on an empty mag.