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PBE Shield Stickers and Deagle Boltface Patches On Sale Now!



File 154766432359.jpg - (0.98MB , 5312x2988 , qwe_download.jpg )
108143 No. 108143 ID: 7e7aa7
I've finally decided that I'm going to pull the trigger and build an AR-15 (of sorts; SCR Lower). I've set aside money for the lower, just waiting on Brownells or Budsgunshop to have them instock again. In the mean time I'm going to build up the upper, 100% from scratch (well from parts because I'm not a machinist).

Why not just buy an upper? I actually want to really learn something out of this.

Why an SCR lower? I broke my hand long before joining the Marine Corps. Being young and dumb and not wating to miss work I would duck tape my hand into a ball for work (pulling rocks out of the blueberry barrens) and then tape my fingers and hand out on make shift splints after work. Suffice to say it never healed right and now shooting a true pistol grip actually kind of hurts. Straightish stocks work much better for me.

Has anyone here assembled their own upper?
Any good guides to read?
Manufactures to avoid? (obviously avoid poverty pony stuff)
Manufactures you like?

Over all I'm going for an upper that looks somewhat milspec, sans the forward assist (SCR bolt can't utilize one) and carry handle. Almost mini-14ish in overall asthetics.

Pic semi-related. I'm thinking of a wood buttstock because #woodissexyasfuck
Expand all images
>> No. 108144 ID: 9dcda2
  >>108143
> Has anyone here assembled their own upper?

A couple. I worked at a AR-15 shop in CA for a while and I've assembled complete guns. The last one was for my buddy here on the least coast and we did it without a vice. (One guy held the receiver block with a pipe wrench while the other torqued the barrel nut on. LEGIT)

> Any good guides to read?

There are about a million guides, both written and in video. See embeded video from TFBTV.

> Manufactures to avoid? (obviously avoid poverty pony stuff)

Plastic lowers like New Frontier Armory. Anything that's really cheap. Just stick to known manufacturers and you'll be fine. My buddy is running a UTG-Pro handguard that's worked just fine.

> Manufactures you like?

Receivers: Aero Precision is my go-to for low cost uppers and lowers. They're actually really good quality. (As of a couple of years ago.)

Handguards: ALG / Geissele rails are damn good. Basically just look at some AR pictures and find one your like, make sure it's not complete crap.

Barrels: White Oak Armament, Spikes Tactical, Faxon Firearms, Daniel Defense.

Bolt Carrier Group: Faxon firearms.

Adjustable gas block (if you're into that sort of thing): SLR Rifleworks Sentry 7

Triggers: Geissele / ALG again. Laure has a nice "combaty" 2 stage that goes on sale for like $100.

> SCR lower

They do look sweet with wooden furniture. I'll do one for sure when I get back to CA.

> Being young and dumb and not wating to miss work I would duck tape my hand into a ball for work (pulling rocks out of the blueberry barrens) and then tape my fingers and hand out on make shift splints after work.

Wow.
>> No. 108145 ID: 9dcda2
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108145
>> No. 108146 ID: 9dcda2
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108146
>> No. 108147 ID: 9dcda2
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108147
>> No. 108148 ID: 9dcda2
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108148
>> No. 108149 ID: 9dcda2
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108149
>> No. 108150 ID: ae593f
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108150
Lower is pretty easy to build don't really need AR Armorer's Wrench but it's nice to have one. Upper on the other hand you will need a wrench and vice block and punch + hammer.

There is the clamp type of vice block (see pic) which works with most standard AR uppers
>> No. 108151 ID: ae593f
File 154768826822.jpg - (116.96KB , 750x565 , 308.jpg )
108151
>>108150
One thing to note is the clamp type of vice block doesn't work with non-standard upper, I learn that the hardway when I bought a Vltor MUR upper and I had to get this type of vice block.
>> No. 108152 ID: ae593f
File 154768863273.jpg - (86.98KB , 750x600 , Trijicon MaRiO.jpg )
108152
Do you have a build/look/style you have in mind for your upper? Barrel length/gas system? Handguard options? Bushwhacker use to use this website to do mock up so you get an idea how you want your setup will look like. It's dated and a lot of newer accessories aren't in the list so you will have to use your imagination.

http://pimpmygun.doctornoob.com/app.php


Gunstruction is a more up to date site to build your rifle but unlike PimpMyGun you can't just make your own stuff you have to pick from their ok selection of parts.

https://www.ar15.com/gunstruction/
>> No. 108153 ID: 02ecb0
File 154770858443.jpg - (1.01MB , 1200x900 , SAM_1828.jpg )
108153
>Has anyone here assembled their own upper?
between me and my buddies we have built a few.

>Any good guides to read?
youtube, and the above guides.

>Manufactures to avoid? (obviously avoid poverty pony stuff)
dpms, anderson (lowers seem fine tbqh but check one in person first, i've had a dud before) doublestar, radical...basically any manufacturer that sells a complete AR for under $500.

>Manufactures you like?

barrels: faxon, ballistic advantage, and larue. all three of these guys offer up a barrel that tapers from the receiver end to the muzzle, so it's thick where it needs to be (towards the receiver) and thin at the end towards the muzzle) to aid in weight balance, and give you some advantages of a heavy barrel. (faxon makes the gunner profile, BA makes the hanson profile, and larue makes the stealth, all sub $250 iirc.) DD and BCM make good hammer forged barrels if you would rather have that.

bolt carrier groups: toolcraft is my go-to. they are OEM for a lot of companies, and offer up one under their own name that is mil-spec (158 carpenter steel) and is nitrided, which is better than mil-spec phosphating. if you need meme coatings, cryptic is good despite their cringey marketing. bootleg makes a neat, 4-position adjustable carrier that i've had great luck with, but that does not come with a bolt or the other parts, just the carrier.

handguards: alg is good, and not too expensive, like their sister company geissele. i use a fortis rev2, which is nice because it is free-floating, and bolts right on to a mil-spec barrel nut with no hassle. other guys like centurion arms and samson make handguards like this, too.

muzzle devices: you could get away with an a2 birdcage, it costs almost nothing and works well for both flash and recoil reduction. the yhm phantom is good and cheap too. if you need something to work with a silencer, companies usually make their muzzle devices proprietary to their suppressors, but some cross over.

receivers: aero precision makes the best price-to-performance ones, bar none, so i'd have to second avgas here. they also make an awesome non-forward assist stripped upper that still allows you to mount on a dust cover for not much money either, and i've used one of those to good effect on a recent rebuild. they also make an m4e1 lower that i'm going to build up soon, and i like those a lot because no fucking roll pins, and it looks cool like a billet lower while still being forged.

triggers: alg if you need a slightly-fancier mil-spec trigger, geissele if you need top-tier performance. seconding avgas for the larue mbt, though, since right now it is $87 and is by far the best deal for a durable, great 2-stage trigger that is also durable.

charging handle: bcm gunfighters are great value for money while being bulletproof, and come in ambi if you need that feature. the radian raptor and geissele super/airborne are also awesome but are more money.

buffer: sprinco for springs, spikes for buffers. geissele also makes the super 42 which is also money, and the vltor a5 is awesome too.
>> No. 108154 ID: 9dcda2
>>108153
All good shit.

One thing I do when possible, is to get the barrel and bolt from the same manufacturer, as they are the pressure bearing components.

Not that I've had a problem. Modern manufacturing is really damn good. As long as you avoid "gun show" no-name shit, you'll be fine.
>> No. 108155 ID: 7e7aa7
Thanks guys!

Going for a very stock military look. A2 front sight block, birdcage flash hider, etc. Also iron sights only, partly for asthetics and partly because iron sights is what I learned to shoot on (optics always feel wonky to me).

Wont be building up a lower as the SCR lower is a proprietary system that can mate to just about any upper (has issues with some off the wall uppers from what I've read and can't use a piston upper). Only change I'm making to the lower is putting a wood buttstock on it.

So Aero makes just what I think I need:
https://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/receiver-parts/receivers/upper-receivers/ar-15-stripped-upper-w-marking-no-forward-assist-prod81821.aspx?avs%7CStyle_1=Stripped
I assume a standard vice block will work with that?

>>108147
What is the actual practical difference between the two sight block variations?

>>108154
Didn't know that was a thing. Will make sure I buy a barrel that comes with a bolt.

What I've come up with so far:
1x Armorer's Wrench
1x Punch & Hammer
1x Vice Block
1x Vice
1x Drill Press (needed an excuse to buy one!)

Aero Stripped Lower, no Foward Assist
Ejection Port Cover
Charging Handle (a basic no thrills one is all I need)
20" Barrel w/bolt (are the ones Brownells slaps their name on any good?)
A2 FSB (not sure if I need the "F" or not); I've watched some videos on alternative ways to mount them without buying a $200 jig for paying a gunsmith to drill and pin them - thoughts on that?
Bird Cage flash hider
Rifle length gas tube
Black MOE handguards unless there is something horrible about them I don't know about - I like the look of them
Fixed rearsight of some sort (not sure if I want the detachable carry handle or not)
>> No. 108156 ID: 7e7aa7
>>108155
Oh and I've seen clamp-on A2 style FSB that require no drilling at all, just 5x set screws. Thoughts on those?
>> No. 108157 ID: 02ecb0
File 154774964249.jpg - (1.12MB , 1500x850 , 20170630_233914.jpg )
108157
>>108154
thats good advice for sure, but personally i don't think it will be a problem if you have access to headspace gauges. i don't think i have ever bought a matched bolt and barrel from a company before, but that's just because i have easy enough access to somebody who can headspace for me to make sure that isn't a problem.

i forgot to mention that toolcraft bolt carriers typically go for under $100 too, and that's a steal considering how high quality they are for what you get!

>>108155
>Going for a very stock military look. A2 front sight block, birdcage flash hider, etc. Also iron sights only, partly for asthetics and partly because iron sights is what I learned to shoot on (optics always feel wonky to me).
that's rad, fsbs are bombproof and i think even with optics that is the most solid way to have a backup front sight. you might want to look through a bunch of optics (red dots, prisms, acogs, low-power variable optics like 1-4x) since technology has made these so good nowadays. can't go wrong with irons only though, that is a good skill to practice even before getting an optic.

>Wont be building up a lower as the SCR lower is a proprietary system that can mate to just about any upper (has issues with some off the wall uppers from what I've read and can't use a piston upper). Only change I'm making to the lower is putting a wood buttstock on it.
also, i'd try a bunch of different grips out there too before settling on the ares. there also tons of them out there now too in different profiles if you are not totally set on the ares, and it will help ensure parts compatibility.

>I assume a standard vice block will work with that?
i don't see why it wouldn't, so somebody else will hopefully chime in with that. for this no FA build, i had a gunsmith build and lap the receiver, since he also had to pin the flash hider to my barrel. i'd typically use a magpul bev block if i were building, since the interface to the upper is actually to the bolt lugs of the barrel's receiver extension, which takes stress off of the aluminum receiver when torquing.

>What is the actual practical difference between the two sight block variations?
the taller F-marked fsp is for use with flat-top upper receivers, while the shorter one is for fixed carry handle sights on an a2/a1 upper iirc.

>Black MOE handguards unless there is something horrible about them I don't know about - I like the look of them
those are about as great as you can make a drop-in handguard, especially for the price, quality, and modularity, but i'd look into a free-floater nowadays since there really isn't much of a reason not to use one in the current year besides price. if you are set on this at least get one with m-lok on it, not the old MOE interface.

>Fixed rearsight of some sort (not sure if I want the detachable carry handle or not)
i'd get one that folds if you plan to get optics, but if you are getting a fixed rear that is not a carry handle, that will be good too for a red dot. cowitnessing is useful.

>Oh and I've seen clamp-on A2 style FSB that require no drilling at all, just 5x set screws. Thoughts on those?
don't, have it pinned if you go FSB.
>> No. 108158 ID: 9dcda2
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108158
>>108155 >>108157
> Going for a very stock military look. A2 front sight block, birdcage flash hider, etc. Also iron sights only, partly for asthetics and partly because iron sights is what I learned to shoot on (optics always feel wonky to me).

I don't think standard AR sights are going to work. The AR sights are tall because the stock is straight. The SCR stock drops quite a bit, so you'd need a cheek riser to see your sights, and no, just no. See pic.
>> No. 108159 ID: 9dcda2
File 15477764756.jpg - (71.64KB , 1024x435 , NqwT28zh.jpg )
108159
Well I found a pic of what you're describing. I like it, but we gotta fix your sights.
>> No. 108160 ID: 9dcda2
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108160
Now I would probably go with a free float handguard and some Troy Micro Sights. The HCAR comes with these and they're nice, just expensive.

https://troyind.com/products/micro-set-hk-front-and-round-rear-blk
>> No. 108161 ID: 9dcda2
File 15477766966.jpg - (93.44KB , 1500x1500 , SCR-SIGHT-SET-MICRO_Z.jpg )
108161
Well, there's the stock SCR sights. Need something to hold the front of the handguard.
>> No. 108162 ID: 9dcda2
File 154777725559.png - (67.81KB , 300x159 , 366000000001-1.png )
108162
CZ EVO Skorpion sights.

https://shop.cz-usa.com/ProductDetail/366000000001_Evo-Sight-Set
>> No. 108163 ID: 9dcda2
File 154777957612.jpg - (25.50KB , 600x391 , 23.jpg )
108163
>>108161
Ok need the Fightlight gas block for that front sight. You could probably contact the mfg and buy one.
>> No. 108164 ID: f5c3ed
>>108160
$135 used isn't too bad.
https://www.amazon.com/Troy-Industries-Micro-Folding-Battle/dp/B0051T92BS
>> No. 108165 ID: 5c87e8
mount a fleshlight on the upper rail, find the biggest mags you can and get some bumpfire going. you will cum long before the barrel burns out, its awesome. that stream of hot shells ricocheting off your inner thigh is what makes it really special
>> No. 108167 ID: 8fe1aa
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108167
>>108158
that definately doesn't look right or practical. Carry handle is now a hard no.

>>108159

I've been reading about this issue and it seems a monte-carlo stock or cheek pad is the solution when >>108163 isn't available.

Another possible solution I saw was using HK Diopter Sights. Basically the sight is lower because the rail of a 416 is higher. I don't think anyone tested this however. I'm wondering if there is a way to work out, mathmatically, if it is feasible.

I'm also wondering with that if the HK rear sight with an A2 FSB would work. Front sights for the 416, that aren't rail mounted, look tall as hell coming off the barrel (though it could just be an optical illusion).

Absolute worst case senserio, if that doesn't work and factory SCR sights are unobtanium, a fancy leather cheekpad isn't the worst thing in the world.

My only objection to rail mounted front sights is just that I don't like the way they look. They function just fine but for some reason they remind me of a lazily bubb'd SKS or Mini-14.
>> No. 108168 ID: 8fe1aa
>>108167
Something else also crossed my mind, though it is outside my skill level to do and I would have to hire someone to do it for me.

There are videos and threads about people cuting and turning their FSB into low profile gas blocks. The ones I've seen came out pretty nice whith the sharp edges ground off and the block refinished.

If it is possible to do that, then why wouldn't it be possible to cut and weld the front sight base to the correct height for the SCR?

Though how do you determine what that height is?

Then again I may be entering the realm of "sure, if you have enough money you can do anything..."
>> No. 108169 ID: 8fe1aa
>>108167
Actually scratch that A2 front sight with the HK rear sight. Upon more looking, it wouldn't work. Might work with the SCR factory front sight.
>> No. 108170 ID: 9dcda2
  >>108165
Lower rail.
>> No. 108171 ID: 1487e2
File 154783335439.jpg - (3.35MB , 5312x2988 , 20170922_013237.jpg )
108171
>>108158
>>108159
Folding front sight with A2 aesthetics and it's clamp on style install

http://armsmounts.com/shop/iron-sights/a-r-m-s-41-b-silhouette/
>> No. 108175 ID: 9dcda2
>>108171
Those are still too tall, as they're the standard AR height.
>> No. 108176 ID: fe0cf7
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108176
>>108170
I don't doubt that this is a real thing that people are getting into, but still... Please, Jesus, forgive our wickedness and don't eradicate this country with fire as I would expect!
>> No. 108177 ID: c69b56
Ordered parts today. Got a 10% off and free shipping from Brownells. Funny how if you leave a full cart for 24hrs suddenly there are coupon offers in your email.

Ordered From Brownells:
1x Aero Stripped Upper, no FA
1x Brownells 20" 6.5 Grendel SS barrel 1in8 w/bolt
1x Ejection port cover assy
1x SS rifle length gas tube
1x A2 Flash Hider
1x Basic charging handle
1x Armorers tool (tapco one)
1x Action Vise Block

From other sites:
1x Clamp on A2 FSB w/bayo-lug & swivel
1x Delta ring w/barrel nut assy
1x Magpul MOE M-LOK Rifle Length, BLK

I decided I'm going the 6.5 Grendel route last second. I've been doing a lot of reading and for my needs (plinking -> hunting) it seems like the better choice.

I also decided that I'm going to put a leather cheek pad on the stock. It is a weird story of how I got there but I figured out a way I could side mount a reproduction PE Scope with off the shelf parts or side mount a POSP with some slight modifications to off the shelf parts. Either way, a cheekpad or a monte carlo stock would be necessary for a side mounted scope. I know it sounds like a crazy idea but my brain needs to see if it would work...

Only thing I haven't figured out is which rear sight I want to use.
>> No. 108182 ID: 9dcda2
>>108177
> Got a 10% off and free shipping from Brownells. Funny how if you leave a full cart for 24hrs suddenly there are coupon offers in your email.

That's a good tip.

> 6.5 Grendel

Well the thing about 6.5 is the ammo cost...

https://www.sgammo.com/product/65-grendel-ammo/1000-rounds-65-grendel-100-grain-fmj-lacquered-steel-case-wpa-wolf-ammo
> 1000 Rounds - 6.5 Grendel 100 grain FMJ Lacquered Steel case WPA Wolf Ammo $249.50 Each (price per round $0.25)

Shit! I didn't know Wolf made 6.5 for cheap.

> Basic charging handle

Depending on your optics choice, you may have to go with an extended charging handle. I like the BCM "Medium" gunfighters or the Geissele Super Charging Handle. (The airborne is too small.)
>> No. 108186 ID: 764ef6
>>108182
Link saved!

Also, I had thought firearms related purchases were exempt, but my I used my cash back credit card (1-3% depending on what is purhcased; I put everything on it and pay it off at the end of the month) and got 3%. Pleasant surprise.
>> No. 108192 ID: 02ecb0
File 154840548023.jpg - (43.14KB , 800x800 , offset-heights.jpg )
108192
>>108177
>Ordered parts today. Got a 10% off and free shipping from Brownells. Funny how if you leave a full cart for 24hrs suddenly there are coupon offers in your email.
personally i never found brownells to be a particularly good place to shop for AR parts for cheap. i guess it's because i've always found better deals elsewhere, but it's nice to get all of your shit from one place.

>Ordered From Brownells:
>1x Aero Stripped Upper, no FA
patrician choice.

>1x Brownells 20" 6.5 Grendel SS barrel 1in8 w/bolt
>I decided I'm going the 6.5 Grendel route last second. I've been doing a lot of reading and for my needs (plinking -> hunting) it seems like the better choice.
i'd have personally started with a 5.56 but i was tossing around the idea of building a 12.5" 6.5 grendel pistol to hunt with myself. at least there are cheap steel-cased offerings out there to plink with, i have no qualms about shooting tulammo/wolf crap through any of my guns.

i don't know if there was an option for this at brownells either, but i'd assume they are at least on top of their game and offer the 6.5 grendel stuff with the type 2 chamber if you enjoy having fingers and a face.

>1x A2 Flash Hider
>1x Basic charging handle
ok on the flash hider but i think you could have done better with the charging handle. it might seem kind of silly to spend a lot more on that part than what a standard one goes for (i hope its at least 7075 aluminum) but a medium-sized latch will be a god-send when you have a scope, plus it will not be too big as to wreck your shit when it's up against your body when you are trekking innawoods. you could probably just swap the latch out of your basic one, since the dinky roll pin in those come out real easy. theres another issue with that i might forsee which ill mention below.

>1x Armorers tool (tapco one)
>1x Action Vise Block
i use the magpul wrench with one of their bev blocks and they are fucking sweet. a plain tapco one is a bit better if you have to deal with larger diameter buffer tubes like a KAK pistol one; the magpul wrench doesn't really fit around the extra thicc girth that those have.

>From other sites:
>1x Clamp on A2 FSB w/bayo-lug & swivel
>1x Delta ring w/barrel nut assy
>1x Magpul MOE M-LOK Rifle Length, BLK
i think you dun goofed on this one since the potential of a 6.5 grendel round, especially in a barrel that long would be better realized with a free-floater. did you at least cop the front handguard cap too?


>I also decided that I'm going to put a leather cheek pad on the stock. It is a weird story of how I got there but I figured out a way I could side mount a reproduction PE Scope with off the shelf parts or side mount a POSP with some slight modifications to off the shelf parts. Either way, a cheekpad or a monte carlo stock would be necessary for a side mounted scope. I know it sounds like a crazy idea but my brain needs to see if it would work...

i don't think a cheek riser is a bad idea given how high optics usually have to be mounted on AR-style rifles but that may be a bit different with an ares stock setup.

on typical rifle-brand rifles with rifle-brand stocks, sights, and by extension, any optics on them, will typically sit lower to bore than on an AR, because the stock's comb height relative to the bore is lower. ARs will normally have a higher sight height-over-bore, so if you end up mounting your scope pretty low to the bore like on a normal rifle, you may run into a problem with your A2 fsb obstructing, if not blocking your sight picture. a magnified optic will make this a bit of a blur because focal planes and parallax are a thing, but if it sits low, you're going to stevie wonder yourself at the range with it.

you may need the larger charging handle latch to solve the issue of being able to charge the rifle with a big, honking ocular lens in the way if it does end up being mounted low, but even then, its just a nice thing to have.

honestly the combination of a round with great accuracy potential at long range with it being on a gun with a rail built on top of the receiver, i'd probably go for a more modern optics setup than some weird milsurp deal. decent scopes and rings these days are at rock bottom prices for a workable setup, especially if you plan to take the gun innawoods.

>Only thing I haven't figured out is which rear sight I want to use.
one that folds out of the way, polymer magpul mbus sights are cheap and fold but are xbox hueg, but they make a neat steel one with a wide range of adjustments. the griffin armament ones are nice and small, too. the sights are going to be pretty high up relative to the stock based on what i know of the SCR lower so hopefully that will work out with a cheek riser.
>> No. 108355 ID: cf6500
File 155327146183.jpg - (133.12KB , 990x1920 , received_1744741382292015.jpg )
108355
Got about 75% assembled. Rear sight is still in the mail, just order the special non-standard bolt catch the SCR used, have yet to order optics or the hardware I think will let me side mount a scope WWII style. Also still need to choose an ambidextrous mag release.
>> No. 108361 ID: e7bc52
I am a new owner of an AR upper. A co worker decided he didnt want one that he had.
Can I hot swap uppers and still keep my zero? Or will I need to re zero every time I change reinstall the upper onto a lower?
>> No. 108362 ID: f5c3ed
>>108361
Shouldn't be an issue.
>> No. 108363 ID: 8b7a7b
>>108361
As 5.45 said, there shouldn't be an issue. Since the sights or optic are mounted to the barrel/upper receiver, that all stays in the same alignment.
>> No. 108364 ID: e7bc52
>>108362
>>108363
Thank you for the response.
I assumed it would be ok. I will still head to the range and double check.

So now I have 3 uppers and 2 lowers. Other than cost savings. is there any reason to have a lower for each upper?
>> No. 108367 ID: 9dcda2
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108367
>>108364

> So now I have 3 uppers and 2 lowers. Other than cost savings. is there any reason to have a lower for each upper?

The only need for additional lowers is to have different configs or to have more functional guns at one time. 'Case you need to arm yourself, your cat, and your dog all at the same time... or something.

Unless the cat and dog don't get along, then I'd recommend against it.
>> No. 108375 ID: 51b0a9
>>108361
Mechanical zero is based on the sights in relation to the bore.
Since in the AR-15, both are rigidly mounted in the same component (unlike say, a FAL) a swap would not change any mechanical zero (or boresight).

However you would still need to do a final sight-in to compensate for changes in hold due to stock (or sight plane in reference to eye and bore) or distance from eye to sight line.
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