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Deagle Boltface Patches On Sale Now!



File 140457286523.jpg - (112.02KB , 880x660 , 461313.jpg )
2881 No. 2881 ID: d3fb95 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/1165461313/hornady-bullets-9mm-355-diameter-115-grain-full-metal-jacket-round-nose

So I', reloading these things, what powders would you guys recommend?

Also I'm reloading 12ga. and apparently theres a secret formula depending on what wads and shot and whatnot you use, so I have no idea what I'm doing with that. I also have some magtech 12ga. brass shells I plan on using, do you guys have any experience with those?
6 posts omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 3467 ID: 576ab6
If you use bullseye in combination with that powder, here is my load:

115 grain hornady JHP or FMJ.

3.9-4.0 grains of bullseye.

CCI #500 SPP.



Very little recoil
>> No. 3468 ID: 8b1711
Does pistol powder even exists?

Can't find any anywhere, might try my luck at some gunshows idfk

looking for power pistol ideally
>> No. 3469 ID: 24641f
It exists.


Small hole in the wall gunshops are the best place to find it.


If you are in the DC area, Clark Brothers in Warrenton periodically has pistol powder and always has rifle powder.


There are some powders that can be used for pistol and shotgun, but always consult an official source before buying dual use powder.
>> No. 3536 ID: 304e9b
>>3049
I used to use Red Dot for just about everything I reloaded except for the match .308 stuff, then Sandy Hook happened, and I never saw it again. It was also about 16 bucks a pound. Glory days.

I've been using Hodgdon HP-38 with great success for 115gr and 147gr 9mm loads with great success.
>> No. 3537 ID: 304e9b
>>3536
great success


File 14407158994.jpg - (108.47KB , 640x480 , K31StripperClipp_JPG.jpg )
3509 No. 3509 ID: fd0828 hide watch quickreply [Reply]
K31 stripper clips are the most delicate stripper clip in history. All that's required is a pressed piece of metal but let's involve waxed cardboard and a design that looks like it wanted to be fully enclosed but couldn't. Does anybody on here have a 3D printer? I'm curious if one could 3D print stripper clips for the K31 and have a market to sell them for less than $20 per for what's definitely a used piece of waxed cardboard and tin. Other stripper clips, I wouldn't bother asking but this one is unique.

Failing that, I've seen where Mosin clips can be substituted but since 7.5 Swiss isn't rimmed, they don't work perfectly. Would .308 stripper clips work? Some Mauser flavor?

This seems like the sort of thing some old timer figured out.
>> No. 3510 ID: bbfe61
If you can give me some good measurements and some pictures of them holding cartridges and empty I can put some sort of design together that can be 3D printed, but more likely it's something that can be stamped out of super thin sheet metal.
>> No. 3511 ID: 50cd85
>>3510
IIRC the metal was crimped over the fiberboard, and was very thin.
>> No. 3525 ID: b89631
>>3509
Youre going to have a hard time since Northridge is basically doing the same thing for $15:
http://northridgeinc.com/store/index.cfm/c0/i898

That being said, I was curious about reproing this myself a while back and was thinking along the same lines, but I thought to get a dye cutter and cut out the thin, tin base and stamp it into shape since the metal is really thin and is easily bendable by hand.


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3453 No. 3453 ID: 097fc9 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
These were in production like 2 years ago and I message them on Facebook asking when will they make more. Couple days ago out of no where I get a message from them telling me it's back in stock

http://www.gfgear.com/charging-handles/ar-15/gfg-side-charger


P.S. - we SCAR now
11 posts and 8 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 3465 ID: 097fc9
File 143373749965.jpg - (30.83KB , 500x500 , gibbz-arms-g4urlh-gibbz-arms-g4-left-handed-side-c.jpg )
3465
>>3464
Neat! Did some more research on it, all it need is use their proprietary cam pin, I wonder if it will effect the BCG in the long.


> $225 vs $150 on the side charging handle :(
http://www.wcarmory.com/new-frontier-side-charging-upper-non-reciprocating.htm

Now I have to find a sucker to pawn this side charging handle off and get this upper
>> No. 3466 ID: 097fc9
>>3465
The cam pin looks like just add more material for the charging handle to pull back, its still pulling on the ledge on the BCG.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8aUOdBX3k9U
>> No. 3470 ID: 72eee7
I can't tell for sure, but I get the impression that the Gibbz, New Frontier, Spartan, and XProducts uppers are all the same thing, and Gibbz says theirs is patent pending, so I think the others are the licensed copies of Gibbz's, New Frontier has the lowest price and I don't think they are any lower in quality, so I guess that's the one to get.
>> No. 3478 ID: b754de
Dammit, i just designed one of these.
>> No. 3491 ID: 50cd85
>>3478
So did I, but mine used a L1A1 style folding charging handle.
Still neat to see others with the same idea.
Well done gents.


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3376 No. 3376 ID: d5e5a4 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
So, my Uzi has been broken for about the same period as my self-imposed exile from OPchan. After months of trial and error, we finally figured out why.

The issue: Failure to fire. When I pull the trigger, the bolt slams forward, pushes the round into the barrel, lightly dents the primer, but the round doesn't go off.

The problem: The 4 welds that hold the front trunnion in place had broken and the bolt had literally pushed the trunnion forward by about 1/4 inch.

The solution: Drill out the remainder of the welds, clean the surfaces, and re-weld the trunnion in place.

Added bonus: Detail strip and parkerize the gun. Plus switch to quick-detach fixed stock.

Let's start with a shitty phone pic of the exact problem.
37 posts and 23 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 3486 ID: 67299a
>>3475
Buy personal may day's ... trust me bro
>> No. 3487 ID: 3cb6a2
>>3475

Is there a limit as to how many sample guns one dealer can have on hand?
>> No. 3488 ID: b874f2
>>3487

From what I understand, Class II manufacturers can make whatever post sample guns they want themselves, without a LEO demo letter.

Any other post-86 sample guns they acquire from an outside source does require a demo letter. In those cases, you are only allowed to acquire one of a specific type for demonstration purposes, duplicates are not allowed.

One exception is that SOTs can acquire post-86 guns without a demo letter from other SOTs that are closing up shop, or otherwise surrendering their SOT.

Of course, pre-86 samples do not require a demo letter.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
>> No. 3489 ID: 23ad48
>>3488

Damn rigmarole.
>> No. 3490 ID: c3e6b2
>>3488
IIRC that's how AcidMan's gun shop was making F/A guns for rental.


File 143758781590.jpg - (0.99MB , 2592x1456 , FYS ergonomically.jpg )
3483 No. 3483 ID: fd0828 hide watch quickreply [Reply]
Every bump-fire stock for AR-15s that I can find requires a carbine length buffer tube. I have the Vltor A5 system on my AR for smoother recoil and more consistent bolt carrier velocity with less bolt bounce. Does anybody make a bump-fire stock that allows a carbine length buffer tube AND a rifle length buffer tube? The A5 buffer tube isn't rifle length and it's a smidgen longer than carbine length, but it does have the adjustment "notches" of a carbine so I figure that's the only way to make it work without doing some home hack-job.

Not sure how you'd keep the thing aligned without that thing on the bottom of a carbine buffer tube with the adjustment notches but whatever. Maybe I just need to build a new AR.

Pic related: The AR-15 in question, in it's infancy.
>> No. 3484 ID: de0cbd
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3484
I don't think they make a rifle length bump fire stock, the best thing you can do is take your rifle buffer tube and test it against one. I know when bump fire stock is installed the back of the buffer tube doesn't sit flush with the back of the stock so there might be enough room to work with rifle length buffer tube.


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2131 No. 2131 ID: d362aa hide watch expand quickreply [Reply] [First 100 posts] [Last 50 posts]
So I'm 3 days in with my school, first two days were general safety videos and operational shit. Starting with the machines today cutting practice stock. I've already posted before in /t/ about the school and shit, but I figured I would come here because I have never been in a machine shop before. The band dropsaw, grinder and the milling machine are pretty basic, I've got those.

My questions are for the advanced shit on the milling machine and the lathe, anything in particular you guys with experience think I should know?

Also I plan on posting updated pics on shit I make in shop in this thread, pic related: it's the shop I'm working in.
166 posts and 81 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 3185 ID: 5a40da
>>3184
I also remember reading that.

The trouble is that his accuracy could have been influenced by other factors than crown angle, like specific point in bullet exit along barrel vibration, what load he used (exact bullet shape, velocity), barrel imperfections at the receding crown locations, how well made each crown was (if it was really square and everything), or other factors that may escape my imagination.

I heard about tests performed with shadowgraphs to see gas flow at the muzzle, but I don't know where to look for that sauce.

There are competitors winning competitions with flat muzzles, no angle, cut square on the lathe and lightly lapped with a brass ball and abrasive compound, so I don't think the specific angle is as important compared to the miasmic sea of factors that will ruin a good group. Interdasting stuff regardless.
>> No. 3447 ID: b55e37
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3447
I'm gonna go ahead and apologize for lack of content this past semester or so, some crazy shit has gone down and I've been putting in like 50+ hours in class a week. I'm home on break right now but when I get back I'll be posting some sweet shit I did recently. Here's a teaser.
>> No. 3448 ID: b55e37
File 143149301563.jpg - (67.77KB , 720x405 , XDf2a4c.jpg )
3448
>> No. 3449 ID: b55e37
File 143149303885.jpg - (70.24KB , 396x720 , ktECZtK.jpg )
3449
Getting all dressed up for the ball
>> No. 3450 ID: b55e37
File 143149312596.jpg - (34.08KB , 396x720 , XA2iywO.jpg )
3450
Somebody is already to go.

Ignore the bedding compound on the barrel, haven't cleaned her up yet, and the bottom metal is missing because there a few high spot on the Devcon I still need to file to fit.


File 141940955467.jpg - (95.38KB , 867x700 , DVD quality.jpg )
3220 No. 3220 ID: f1d6de hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
(Going to guess that this is the right place for this.)

Recently assembled a 1911 (series 70 GI type).

Everything fit together nicely (except for one bushing screw which had unusable as it had corroded threads) but I am running into two issues with the the gun that are holding me back from finally getting to go shoot it. Problem one is the grip safety, it does not have any spring tension after re-installation of the mainspring housing (although the thumb safety still functions). Second issue being the hammer only achieving the first stage of cocking when racking the slide, the hammer will not lock into a "full on" fire ready position unless I manually do so. I suspect it has something to do with the sear / disconnector (area) but I don't if that's true, and if it was true what / how to fix it.

I have tried the vast majority of the youtube answers which a majority of tend to deal with series 80 models and almost all revolve around bending the leaf spring to provide more tension ( which has been done).

So /st/ wat do?

(Pic related : hammer after racking the slide)
19 posts and 8 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 3270 ID: f9a97c
>>3269
Apparently people have had issues with that set.

Pick up another FCS set, or try parts from a known working 1911.
>> No. 3271 ID: f0fc06
>>3270

FCS?

Front cocking serration?(the slide?)

Auto correct from MSH?

Just trying to clarify.
>> No. 3272 ID: f9a97c
>>3271
Fire Control. The innards.
>> No. 3277 ID: 94818a
>>3272

understood, will start doing some looking.
>> No. 3432 ID: 70c8a2
So its been a while. finally got the hammer and such working. The grip safety is in-op (and honestly i dont care because its a fun gun). Though I am considering getting aother duckbill so that i can get it working without having to file down the frame to fit it. All that aside, issue was the sear and diss-connector. Ordered a new one from fusion firearms and a few wilson parts. Oddly enough literally everything i have ordered so far has actually just dropped in (kinda defeating the purpose of building one) but still making for a nice pistol. Capable of hit and miss "accuracy" (3-5 out of 7)out to 150 yards shooting from a standing unsupported position.

All that aside should I spend another $120 bucks and try out a series 80 build, and get those "tight tolerances" (a grip safety that actually works) or risk filling down my first "functional" build of anything.(muh sentimental value)

thoughs, opinions.


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3416 No. 3416 ID: 7a390b hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
Remember guys, thin and lightweight gas blocks aren't exactly comfortable sitting on a pistol length gas system for .223 Rem/5.56x45.

Happened about 40 rounds after purchase, with factory ammo.

Set screwed gas blocks and clamp-style gas blocks are also not exactly the best things.

Taper pins. Accept no substitute.
11 posts and 6 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 3428 ID: e6c121
Well, I meant more how the curve was parabolic. But I guess the sander explains that, lol.
>> No. 3431 ID: d349d3
>>3428
You can do a parabolic curve by making the radius to the center of rotation bigger than the part and just shaving what needs to be cut off. It's a little tricky but you'd be able to do pretty much anything with a good indexing table, a test dial indicator, and some trigonometry.

Since this is just for weight reduction and to float under the handguards, there's no need to go full retard. The whole business with math, indication, and indexing table would be required if the part profile was critical for, say, a moving mechanism. However, I can use the belt sander since it's easier, much faster, and more than accurate enough with a steady hand. Even when looking at it, it's even and has a nice shape.

Final part thickness is a little bit over 0.125" at the thinnest, over twice the thickness of the original part. Clears the handguards by at least 0.025" in every direction, and the weight difference isn't really noticeable. It's actually lighter now that I've swapped out the collapsible stock, the one I had on it before this had this heavy rubber pad.

Range report probably this weekend.
>> No. 3433 ID: d349d3
File 142949838371.jpg - (100.78KB , 741x829 , sbr2.jpg )
3433
Good news everyone!

After a pretty decent little test, I can conclude that the gas block and rifle are working very well, despite being a little overgasssed. It doesn't have a heavy buffer in at all, changing that would pretty much fix everything.

Since I can't post webms here, I'll put them in the slo-mo thread here.

http://www.operatorchan.org/k/res/86885.html

The AR was perfectly clean and lubricated before this test. 380 rounds of cheap, dirty, full power Chinese 5.56x45 were fired, along with 40 rounds of Hornady Steel Match, 10 rounds of 60gr TAP, 10 rounds of 75gr TAP, and 10 rounds of 75gr Superformance.

Here's a really lewd shot
>> No. 3434 ID: d349d3
File 142949919310.jpg - (370.27KB , 2631x1329 , sbr1.jpg )
3434
After like 400 rounds, there were no malfunctions. No stoppages of any kind. Empty mags locked the bolt open properly, every round fed, fired, extracted, and ejected perfectly.

Also lol I got the gas tube warm.

Oh, and the front gas key screw backed off about 1/8th of a turn, you can see it in this picture. I tightened it back on and staked the stakings along with more stakes on the tops and sides. Staked that fucker harder than Buffy on 10 cups of coffee after a breakup in a sharp wooden pole museum double booked with a Dracula convention. Little shit is going nowhere.


Gun is still pretty clean, I put more lube on the BCG, ran a bore snake once in it and it's ready for more.

Except my wallet isn't.

;_;

I guess that's it for now.
>> No. 3435 ID: d349d3
File 142949989861.jpg - (555.79KB , 1380x1946 , 60grTAP.jpg )
3435
P.S.

Accuracy was okay. Despite a 1 in 7 twist, the rifle favored lighter bullets, 60 grains and under. Best price/perfance was the Hornady Steel Match, landing all rounds in a 2 inch circle at 100 yards. The cheap Chinese garbage wasn't that far behind, at about 3 inches.

I suspect the lack of accuracy with heavier bullets was due to the twist being insufficient for 75gr bullets when the muzzle velocity is that low. Longer barrels and calibers with more ass can stabilize heavier bullets with slightly slower twists, I guess it works both ways. The smallest group with the 75gr TAP and Superformance was about 6" at 100 yards. Nope, nope nope.

Picture is 5 rounds of 60gr TAP. Despite the accuracy being pretty good, my flier notwithstanding, this shit is a bit too expensive to use all the time.


File 14157481408.jpg - (165.03KB , 855x570 , strip01header.jpg )
3113 No. 3113 ID: 52b35a hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
The Type 97A or by it's Canadian Designation, T97NSR, is the 5.56 NATO Civilian Export Variant of the QBZ-95, the current service rifle of the Chinese People's Liberation Army.

It's hideously ugly, and it's ergonomics are atrocious, but this Striker-fired, short-stroke piston bullpup gets a few important things right.

Lets strip it down!
37 posts and 33 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 3371 ID: ac904b
File 142629112726.jpg - (652.88KB , 1920x1080 , m193.jpg )
3371
>>3149

Now the XM193. Aside from a few flyers, which Im pretty sure were lapses in concentration on my part, grouped noticeably better, similar to what I saw with the 55gr commercial .223.

Impacted higher, maybe due to higher velocity?

The T97 definitely has a 1:7 twist, I confirmed this myself once I got home, so I was expecting the heavier 62 grain to do better. Interesting to note, though, is that Chinese-produced 5.56 is a copy of the M193.

What else might they have done other than the twist rate that we see this kind of difference in accuracy?
>> No. 3372 ID: 639750
>>3370
>>3371
Piston, not a floated barrel, and iron sights probably don't help.

I'd try it with a box of 75gr Hornady Match. That stuff shoots pretty damn well from all my carbines.
>> No. 3373 ID: 639750
>>3372
>>3371
>>3370
>100m Prone Unsupported
Wait. Missed that in the first reply.

Those are actually pretty good groups for prone unsupported. I think the gun will surprise you if you rest it on sandbags.

Nice shooting.
>> No. 3374 ID: ac904b
File 142634334843.jpg - (61.79KB , 640x480 , forntsight.jpg )
3374
>>3372

>iron sights probably don't help

The sights are definitely an issue. All adjustments are made using the front sight post, like you'd see on an AK or SKS.

The problem is that the front sight is fully hooded and this makes the post off-center inside the hood.

When looking through the rear peep, my eye can't decide if it wants to center the post or the hood. It takes a lot of concentration

It looks like the PLA issue QBZ drifts the entire sight base for windage instead of just the post, which would largely solve the issue. Why did they change it for the commercial version? Fuck!
>> No. 3375 ID: ac904b
File 14263440587.png - (1.04MB , 686x648 , mag.png )
3375
>>3373

>Those are actually pretty good groups for prone unsupported.

Thanks, I was pretty happy with the M193 group. I can do way better with my AR but it has a better trigger, no massive piston etc

>I think the gun will surprise you if you rest it on sandbags.

Yeah, I may have to try that. Resting it on harder surfaces is a no go, the movement of the striker assembly when fired makes the rifle "jump" off target ever so slightly. I found I was better off just proning out.


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2359 No. 2359 ID: 218ecf hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
I'm hasguns again! My girlfriend and I moved out of her parents place and into an apartment. My dad recently visited and brought me my .22 bolt action ("good luck getting .22." said the funstore proprietor. "You might get a box at the gun show coming up if you show up early enough"), and more importantly, he brought my shotgun. Pic related, not my gun but same model. It's a Chinese copy of the Ithica 37. The magazine tube fits four rounds. My memories of it are not fond. It was an impulse buy from a pawn shop when I turned 18. It jams bad, either because it's a piece of shit, it wasn't cared for, or I'm a novice shooter. Probably all three. Since money is currently tight, this is now my home defense gun. Better than nothing.
I field stripped it and inspected it. It was dirtier than a Parisian whore, and had obviously not been cleaned since it was last used three (four?) years ago. I cleaned and oiled the bore, mag tube, and the inside of the action as best I could. I'm afraid to REALLY take it apart for fear I'll fuck something up. I'll take it to the range tomorrow and see how well it functions and go from there. More to follow.
38 posts and 11 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 3365 ID: 8fd85b
File 142575519416.jpg - (123.83KB , 1040x780 , should i do it.jpg )
3365
Forgot pic.
>> No. 3366 ID: 639750
>>3364
>>3365
You carry it every day, all day? I'd say cut it and roll with +p, but try out various brands to see what doesn't flash too hard or take ages to deal with recoil compared to your regular ammo.
>> No. 3367 ID: 9ae271
>>3364
Cutting, recrowning, and adding a new sight seems like too much money spent to me. My 3" Model 64 cost $400, and that's because I'm slightly impatient and bought one off of Gunbroker. Idk how much you have into that gun, but why not track down a 3" or 2" snub nose if you need something smaller? Actually, why do you want a shorter gun. Is the weight or size the issue (or both).

As for the ammo, 3" is functionally very short when you have the barrel cylinder gap bleeding pressure as well. I've heard great things about the 135 Speer optimized for short barrels. That's probably your best load choice for a short barrel gun, even if it gives up speed to the 110 grain loads. 900 FPS out of a 2" barrel might not seem like much, but it's still pretty lethal pushing a Gold Dot.
>> No. 3368 ID: 8fd85b
>>3366
No, not all day, everyday. I'm a state employee.

>>3367
I could find 64s on gun broker with a 3 inch barrel, or some with a bobbed hammer, but never both. Not at a reasonable price.

After reading opinions here, asking people in the irc channel, and even making a thread on 4chan's /k/ ("don't fuck with that gun you fucking retard!"), I think the cons outweigh the pros here. While an inch off the barrel will make it more comfortable to carry and a fractionally faster draw speed, it isn't worth the increase in muzzle flash, recoil, and loss of power. The barrel stays as is. Now that I've made up my mind, I can call the custom kydex guy I used last time and stop Mexican carrying a full sized /k/ frame... because I've totally been doing that. Shame me, OPchan.
>> No. 3369 ID: 8fd85b
>>3368
>RaceTraitor
Damn it!


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