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Deagle Boltface Patches On Sale Now!



File 135734774976.jpg - (612.62KB , 1280x960 , CAM00033.jpg )
881 No. 881 ID: aa0d42 hide watch quickreply [Reply]
Greetings /st/,

Recently returned from my holiday vacation, during which I got some nifty little things for my "go-to" pistol. So I thought I'd post a thread here to share some pictures and opinions.

The base handgun is a run-of-the-mill Glock 17 Gen 4. This is the gun that lives on my nightstand, in my backpack, and in my glovebox. I'll start with the most visually obvious addition, a Surefire X400.

I'd wanted a light for this firearm since the day I got it, and like most things, I exhaustively researched options until even thinking about weapon lights brought on nausea and 1000 yard stare. Seeing as it was going on my everything pistol, I wanted an everything light as robust and capable as the gun itself. I settled on an X300/400, and finally the 400 after a little discussion on the usefulness of a laser. So I got myself one for Christmas, $430 on Amazon.

The light comes with two rail inserts, one for accessory rails and one for weaver/picatinny rails. I didn't closely compare the two to see the difference. It also comes with one pair of Surefire CR123A batteries, a spare set of laser adjustment screws with blue loctite pre-applied, and an allen wrench for zeroing the laser. The batteries installed easily and the door felt very secure.

cont.
>> No. 882 ID: aa0d42
File 135734947528.jpg - (462.66KB , 960x1280 , CAM00042.jpg )
882
It slid onto the accessory rail easily, and tightened down rock solid with the locking screw. The screw has a decent amount of resistance, like a nylock washer or blue loctite. I didn't take it all the way out to see which it was. It fit on the gun perfectly, if only just. The battery door of the light has the same curvature as the front of the trigger guard on the G17, and they fit so closely I can just barely slip a piece of cardstock between them, but I did not have to force it in place.

I snugged the screw down pretty well without really cranking on it, which distorted the frame a very small amount, in the form of pinching the sides together a little. You can see in the op picture it looks like the slide is contacting the frame, but if it is it's only maybe 1mm actually in contact. There are no marks on the frame after shooting the pistol to indicate rubbing and I feel no resistance cycling it by hand. At any rate, the pistol works perfectly so I'm not too concerned.

While it undoubtedly added weight to the pistol, the feel and balance is not notably different with a full magazine in the pistol. It does feel somewhat more front heavy with an empty magazine.
>> No. 883 ID: aa0d42
File 13573496671.jpg - (407.73KB , 960x1280 , CAM00035.jpg )
883
The beam pattern is excellent, producing a very bright, evenly lit circle with a halo that illuminates a much wider area. In a closed room, it effectively lights the whole room including your peripheral vision. It also silhouettes the sights nicely, making them perfectly visible. Having it shined directly at you is positively blinding. Very loose tests in an outdoor setting suggest decent visibility at even 200 yards.

It's difficult to get a good picture of the laser dot, but it's easily the brightest red laser I've seen. It's perfectly circular, exceedingly bright, and very clear. It stands out like a road flare in the dark, is very visible in lit rooms, and is even visible in broad daylight. I dicked around shining it at telephone poles at night at it's got a farther visible range than you'd ever need.
>> No. 884 ID: aa0d42
File 135735072151.jpg - (130.44KB , 960x1280 , CAM00038.jpg )
884
So later that day I went out to shoot a bit and zero the laser. Before I actually shot it, I dropped in my Sightmark 9mm laser boresighter and put laser-on-laser at about 20 feet. The adjustment screws are treated with blue loctite, so they take a little torque to turn but the included allen wrench worked perfectly. Note that the pistols frame warps a little bit when you apply torque, so I had to adjust a bit, then let off to see what the actually point-of-aim was.

When I got out the the "range" (innadesert), I shot off a few rounds at about 20 feet. It was damn near right on, just a few inches right. I adjusted it leftward and down a bit, then shot at about 15 yards. Right on again, so I adjusted just a little more and shot at 20. Perfectly on, great group, and lined up perfectly with the irons. I shot another magazine with irons, then one with the laser, and found all satisfactory.

Overall I'm extremely pleased with this light, and it's pretty much exactly what I was looking for. It does have to come off the gun for battery replacement, and I'm not sure how that will affect the zero, but I'll find out before too long because I can't stop playing with the damn thing. I've picked up two sets of spare batteries just to have around.

Final notes. I forgot to mention that with the light and laser both on, the laser dot is still very easily visible in the beam. My camera had trouble capturing it though. The build quality, functionality, and fit are superb. I haven't put the gun through too much abuse with the light on it yet but knowing me, it's sure to be well tested. I have high expectations. My only complaint with the light is the primary on/off switch. It's the only thing on the light that feels "flimsy", though I have no reason to suspect it actually is. It's not particularly smooth, either, unlike the mode selection switch which is solid and decisive. Since I spent my break in Arizona, I dicked around with holsterless conceal carry and found that the switch absolutely loves to catch in your waistband, usually requiring two hands to remove. I don't generally CC the pistol, but it's something to consider.

Next up, Factory Glock extended slide release.
>> No. 885 ID: aa0d42
File 135735116676.jpg - (873.32KB , 1280x960 , CAM00041.jpg )
885
I've actually had this extended slide release on my pistol for a while now, and overall it's a huge improvement in my opinion over the stock flat slide release, which I personally felt required a little too much force to use. The extended version provides the perfect little bump that gives that ideal tactile feel and is easy to use. It doesn't get in the way, and I haven't found myself accidentally locking the slide back while shooting.

I do, however, have one gripe. It's a little too long, and doesn't center in the little bowl for in on the frame. It doesn't affect the function at all, but it does ruffle my aspergers a bit every time I look at it. I don't know if it's just the one I got is a bit too long or if this is a general problem, but once again it works perfectly so I'm not too worried about it.
>> No. 886 ID: aa0d42
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886
Finally, I also received and installed a Ghost Inc. 4.5lb Ranger Kit.

Installation was fairly easy once I figured out what the fuck I was doing, and I have as of now only installed the Ranger 4.5lb connector and the trigger spring that came with the kit. I'll get to the firing pin spring another time.

Once I got it all put back together, I had my moment of truth in which I pondered all the ways I might possibly have fucked up horrendously, cocked it, and tried the trigger. Nothing but pure bliss. Not only did it work, but the new connector did everything it promised. Reduced travel, much of the "mushiness" gone, much much crisper as a whole. I did it a few more times just to be sure. A marked improvement over the stock trigger, and my groups when I went out shooting supported this. 50 rounds with zero issues was enough to convince me I did everything right, and I was pretty pleased with my improved groups. It feels so much nicer that it would be painful to go back to the original at this point. Later I had my grandfather try it. He owns a Gen 1 G17 (his only gun), the gun that resulted in my buying mine in the first place. He's a grumpy old bastard of 82 who still shoots 100 rounds a week, but he gave it his highest praise. "Hrum, that's nice." I caught him looking at places to buy one on his Windows 95 desktop later.

I also failed to take any pics before I assembled it, so have this pic instead.

All in all, it was an excellent holiday season for my G17.


File 135621566622.jpg - (732.25KB , 1296x864 , akmodularrail.jpg )
786 No. 786 ID: c3e6b2 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
I was looking around for a new hardguard for my AK, the Midwest Industry AK-SS extended one I bought require me to remove the handguard cap and I didn't want to throw down $300 ($80 upper gas tube + $220 lower rail) for Ultimak rail set (their lower has a cut out for the handguard cap). I came across this rail set, it seems pretty new to the market and watched a video on how to install it doesn't seem that hard at all.

http://damageusa.com/product/ak-47-modular-forearm-assembly#
6 posts and 4 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 847 ID: 0f2196
>>791
Good news to people who cared, Damaged Industries says they are coming out with an add on piece to cover up the hole.

>>846
Like I said ignore the personality in the video
>> No. 848 ID: 6fced1
>>791
Let me know how it handles heat transfer. I've got a WASR that I've been looking to upgrade with a nicer forearm, and my big concern with metal ones is that they seem like they'd soak up all the heat they could from the barrel and gas tube and inject it into me.
>> No. 851 ID: 0f2196
>>848
When I had UTG quad rail on mine with Magpul ladder rail cover on it was just warm even after 2 mag dump. Granted UTG one is wider than Damaged Industries' but I will report back once I can shoot couple mags out of it.
>> No. 872 ID: 28e84c
yet another AK rail?
>> No. 873 ID: d6e397
I was hoping you'd do a review on this after seeing you talking aboot finally getting it in the "bad experience with vendors" thread.

It looks pretty streamlined which is a nice change for an AK rail. It seems like every company is trying to outdo each other on how fuckhueg they can get their railz. From how hard it was to get on, I would assume yes, but do you think the top handguard would be a decent red dot mounting area? (probably a micro dot of some type)


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774 No. 774 ID: f9a97c hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
Pretty much done in here.
Good luck folks.Just cant offer much more.
11 posts and 2 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 843 ID: d8bc7c
Shame to see ya go. Pop in every now and again, yeah?
>> No. 849 ID: 6fced1
A journey.

A pilgrimage.

Meplat has done all he can over the internet, we must go to him, now. We must climb to the top of the brass, steel, and wood mountain, and sit at the feet of the guru to learn his ways.

Those who remain, and journey not shall miss him, those who choose to travel and become the new disciples of fire shall be blessed, and bless others in turn by the spreading of the knowledge.

OTOH...email saved, at least. I've got a couple projects coming up I was hoping for some input on.
>> No. 850 ID: 8abcec
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850
Good luck in the cursed earth. You will be missed.
>> No. 862 ID: 59f028
>>779
I hate you. HATE YOU.

....

Why you gotta leave?! ;_;
>> No. 863 ID: 4a3917
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863
Now I regret fucking with him...

shit


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856 No. 856 ID: f17633 hide watch quickreply [Reply]
1. Find a fine file
2. File just enough to get the sides of the spine near the feeding lips flush with the sides of the spine at the body, see pic related

Just file a few strokes at a time. You do not want to remove much material, just touch it enough for the mags to drop free. Magazine on the left didn't need any filing, magazine on the right was filed and drops free now.

DO NOT REMOVE MORE THAN A THOU OR TWO AT A TIME. TEST PMAG EVERY COUPLE OF FILE STROKES. DO NOT FILE SPINE OF PMAG.
>> No. 857 ID: f17633
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857
Measuring PMAGs is touchy business as the plastic surface isn't exactly flat anywhere, but if you hold the caliper dead flat against the part you filed (or the part you don't have to file) you can compare the thickness. The PMAG I filed was about 0.005 over the one I didn't have to, and only due to a little injection-molding line (that's the part you file off) that I'll point out in next pic.)

You do not really need a caliper to do file your PMAG, but if you file more than the thickness of two sheets of paper, your magwell may be a little too small and I'd reconsider warranty before filing the mags too much and weakening them.
>> No. 858 ID: f17633
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858
This little line in the plastic is usually the problem. There are magwells that are a little too small in some cases but I'm pretty sure that it's this line in the plastic and the top part of where the sides of the spine go into the feedlips that prevent the mag from dropping. If I remember correctly, these are injection-mold made and the mold has various parts that could be off a thou or two depending of who farted in the room, where the moon is or if you're eating a sandwich or not during the process - the parts of the molds can't always be exactly in line on the dot within less than a half-thou every time as they have to be opened, moved and worked on (etc), so I'm sure that it's just luck and the size of your magwell.

If your magwell is still in spec but on the small end of the tol, you'll probably get a few PMAGs that don't drop free due to this mold line.

I'm no expert but this worked for my tight little LMT AR-15 and the AR of some dude on /k/inder.


File 135581568989.jpg - (29.20KB , 450x600 , comptac2oclock.jpg )
749 No. 749 ID: cdaf54 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
So I just got an HK45CT and am making it my conceal carry and general use fightin' gun. I needed a holster, I looked into the usual crowd, and discovered the idea behind Appendix carry.


Holster impressions: I placed an order with comp-tac, immediately emailed the following morning telling me that my holster was being made as we speak, two days later, they emailed back with a tracking number, two days after that, holster was in my hands.

Very study and thick kydex construction. Retention is suitable for the purpose. Although I would not want to engage in a marathon run or chase someone through the hood without bracing the weapon with my hand.
5 posts and 4 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 755 ID: cdaf54
>>754

Final opinions.

I think it's a great way to carry that is full of advantages but at the same time, disadvantages like anything else. There are a lot of right ways to carry, and a lot of wrong and unsafe ways to carry. You just have to try out what works for you as different people have different shapes and sizes.

The holster only ran me $60 so I figured I would try it and see if I like it before I plump down a lot more money on a better designed and more expensive custom holster.

So far, I'm liking it. Please post if you have any questions, I'll be happy to answer them the best I can based on my experience with it.
>> No. 757 ID: ba36ad
>>751
your dick or your femoral artery... how is it when sitting down? That seemed the greatest weakness of the position, apart from it's muzzle direction. I drive a lot, so if you're sitting up, I couldn't get it to work.

That does conceal a lot, though. Interdasting.
>> No. 760 ID: cdaf54
>>757

Not that comfortable, although with a little playing around with it, you can get it to ride in a spot that isn't so bad. Again, the clear advantages are easy concealment regardless of clothing you are wearing.
The disadvantage may be reduced comfort in certain positions.
>> No. 782 ID: a26a45
I wear a suit all day and I'm concerned with how appendix carry will print with a tucked in dress shirt, though I also wonder how much printing will really matter when nobody's staring at my dick (that I'm aware of). I could keep my suit jacket on all day but there has to be a more comfortable way to conceal a midsize handgun that's big enough to fight with.
>> No. 792 ID: c64a9a
>>782

Will demonstrate soon. To be honest the pros of appendix carry is the fact that you can carry with minimal clothing. With a suit and jacket IWB at the 3 or 4 o'clock shouldn't be too difficult with a full size single or double stack gun. Or for extra concealment, small of the back carry with a smaller weapon with the shirt tucked over it.


File 135571410281.jpg - (48.44KB , 480x640 , vO65u.jpg )
721 No. 721 ID: 9af714 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
http://www.glockforum.com/forum/f8/i-compiled-bunch-pov-pictures-glock-night-sights-13311/
22 posts and 22 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 744 ID: c3ca0b
File 135572282055.jpg - (60.04KB , 280x216 , advantagetactical.jpg )
744
Advantage Tactical
>> No. 745 ID: c3ca0b
File 135572318231.jpg - (11.56KB , 640x480 , hivizregular.jpg )
745
HiViz
>> No. 746 ID: c3ca0b
File 135572340378.jpg - (7.52KB , 176x179 , ameriglo suppressor sights.jpg )
746
High sights
>> No. 747 ID: c3ca0b
File 135572343187.jpg - (28.99KB , 800x600 , rmr.jpg )
747
Trijicon RMR with suppressor sights
>> No. 794 ID: b9a23c
some of these are pig disgusting.


File 135525530462.jpg - (133.75KB , 462x591 , IMAG0242.jpg )
691 No. 691 ID: d29cda hide watch quickreply [Reply]
All right. Some of you may know that I own the Rolls Royce of battle rifles, a SAFN-49. This rifle was issued to the Belgian Army, and was manufactured in 1952. It's all matching, has it's bayonet and sling, and is pretty much a perfect example of these rifles.

Except that the previous owner was a cunt and varnished the stock.

He didn't do the best of jobs on it either, leaving beaded varnish on the right side of the stock. I'd like to correct this idiocy, but I'm not sure about how to proceed.

I've refinished stocks that have been painted (my old Egyptian FN-49) and that have been sanded (Kar98), but I've never had to remove a tough finish like this. Since the stock is matching, how do I go about removing the varnish without damaging the stock? I'm looking for some techniques and such by those of you who have had experience with this. I will be giving the stock a hand-rubbed oil finish once this shit is off of it.
>> No. 698 ID: f9a97c
If you're worried about your own abilities, take it to a furniture refinisher for a ride in their dunk tank, and a matched restain.

Then finish how you want.
>> No. 700 ID: c52779
Send it to me and I'll take care of it.
>> No. 704 ID: 48a3cf
>>698
I'm not too worried about my abilities, I just want to do it right the first time.

>>700
Only if you send me the new Garand and dosh in return.


File 135371387788.jpg - (1.15MB , 2592x1936 , Troy Defense 5_56 Carbine - OPSEC.jpg )
594 No. 594 ID: ebe76d hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
bought one of the Troy Defense 5.56 Carbines that were on sale for $800 at Dicks Sporting Goods due to it being african-american friday...

1 in 7 twist barrel
middy gas system
13" free floated rail w/ spring loaded from back up front sight, and their folding rear irons

...but I guess the jokes on me, because for all the neat/worthwhile qualities it has, the magwell is out of spec/tight as fuck... it wont let the included 10rnd troy mag drop free, USGI Aluminum or Stainless mags wont drop free... and 2nd Gen PMAGs (which are mostly what my mags are) barely fit in the fucker let alone drop free...

I emailed Troy to find out what is up with the mags not dropping free and what they intend to do to unfuck this situation
13 posts and 3 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 674 ID: 614576
  Troy has since gotten back to me and they are living up to their reputation for awesome customer service, and then want to fix/replace the mag well issue, and it is hopefully en route to them as I type... and not getting stolen by some D-Bag delivery guy.

I'm also probably going to have buy some heavier bullets for it, the 1:7 barrel didn't seem to like the 55-grainers I run through my 1:9 M&P-15...

...and hopefully I get some neat schwag outta all this as well, but I mostly hope that fucker comes back able to take and drop PMAGs
>> No. 688 ID: 61608e
>>674
55gr bullets should run fine through a 1/7 barrel.
>> No. 693 ID: 21baa1
>>688
yea, I've read that as well; as in I shouldn't experience jacket separation or over-stabilization with 55gr through 1:7 but I've also read some 1:7 barrels just wont run it as accurately as heavier bullets... which is what I'm hoping is the case, because it grouped considerably larger than my M&P15 and I'm hoping that with all neat little perks on the troy carbine that they didnt go cheap on the barrel which would be semi-retarded...
cause whats the point of having a free-floated rail as standard if your barrel is shit?
>> No. 694 ID: 61608e
>>693
What kind of 55gr did you shoot? I must admit all of my experience with 1/7 barrels and 55gr ammo is with either M193 or TAP.
>> No. 695 ID: 21baa1
>>694
I shot a couple different groups of different brands 52-55gr, all of which my M&P15 1:9 like, except for the Black Hills 52 grainers... they do worse than the Tula out of the M&P15... not sure why/how...
but I usually plink with Tula and generally get alteast 2-3 MOA out of the M&P15 with it

Tula 55gr FMJ ~4.5" @ 50yd after getting it zeroed
after shooting that, I went WTF, and shoot a 5 round for grouping with the M&P got my usual 2.5 MOA group so I grabbed the rest my more expensive ammo that I keep for loaded for HD/testing/shits and giggles.

American Eagle XM193 55gr FMJ was 3" @50yd
Hornady Tap 55gr TAP had a 2.5" @ 50yd vertical string
Hornady Super Performance Varmint 53gr V-Max 2.75" @50yd
Black Hills Ammunition 52gr Match-HP and i forget what the black hills did all I remember it was shittier shit than usual

and Im aware that some of it is me, which is why I shot my M&P15 a bit to see if I was having a really off day & that Tula is shit tier ammo, but its cheap and plinks nicely...
but after seeing those kinds of groups im thinking ill have to
A) buy up some cheap-ish 62 grainers to plink with from now on
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File 135177627634.jpg - (144.44KB , 800x499 , 800px-China_Lake_4x40_REMOV_48135729_std.jpg )
499 No. 499 ID: 2857fe hide watch quickreply [Reply]
Hello,
I am doing a autodesk inventor design of the China lake for future manufacturing and as a learning exercise on autodesk inventor.
I decided to go with the china lake for being simple mechanically and for having lower barrel pressures compared to other ammunitions.

Well I am having a really hard time finding pictures of internals, field manuals etc. and everytime I search on google i get Call of Duty shit -_-.

Anybody know where I may find more pictures of it? Or perhaps a Forum where somebody may have one and may take some pictures of the internals.
>> No. 500 ID: 437a35
File 135178779252.jpg - (146.89KB , 449x800 , IMG_2181.jpg )
500
Not sure how accurate this is but it should help. Some guy made a prop one:
http://www.therpf.com/f9/china-lake-40mm-pump-action-grenade-launcher-116844/
>> No. 504 ID: 843198
it's basically an Ithaca 37 made for 40mm grenades.
>> No. 569 ID: 6098be
cancer i know someone who has access to one. I might be able to get pictures if he co-operates.
>> No. 570 ID: c3e6b2
Someone on /k/inder works at the museum and has a bunch picture of the China Lake. Lurk there he posts picture once a while or drop a /r/ing to see if someone has picture of it they can dump. Apparently there was very few made and the fact that MuseumFag laid his hand on one it's pretty awesome.
>> No. 663 ID: e401c0
>>504
It doesn't have a trigger disconnector?


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636 No. 636 ID: b9a23c hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
So I thought about making this thread after I got my rear sight on. I'm replacing the gross stock g34 sights with Heinie Straight Eight night sights.

I originally was going to take it to a smith but decided to try it myself since It seemed so simple.

It is quite simple besides that I had to file quite a bit off the rear sight to get a good fit. There's a couple marks that aren't bad at all from when I was trying random items for punches. I actually used the blue pen cap in the photos as a punch.

It shouldn't take much force to adjust the sight, and if it does, more filing is required. Once it's zero'd there is an extra securing screw to tighten with loctite, but the press fit is what secures the sight in place.
3 posts and 3 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 640 ID: 1341b4
>>639
Just go to home depot and buy a 3/16" nutdriver. The Husky brand seems to work without modification. Otherwise, you need to reduce the outer diameter a bit for clearance with the inside of the slide.
>> No. 641 ID: a0d79e
i saw adjustable glock sights for $30 at the gun show last weekend. that's a lot of money for garbage.

i turned down a bolt to make a front sight tool, but it would've been worth ten bucks to order one. it's got to be flat to engage the shallow head of the nut and thin-walled to clear the shoulder in the slide. also, make sure you put the front sight in a vise or something to make sure it's aligned with the rear notch. if your front sight looks like it's leaning, it's a tiny bit off.
>> No. 648 ID: b9a23c
File 135436907017.jpg - (127.30KB , 600x310 , side.jpg )
648
>>640
Ah thanks for the heads up. Too late though. I went to home depot to get a triangle file though :)

Front sight was ridiculously simple. Unscrew, remove, put in place, screw, center, screw.
>> No. 649 ID: b9a23c
File 135436914988.jpg - (195.30KB , 500x598 , sights.jpg )
649
Not having a side camera button on the galaxy nexus made this fucking picture so hard to take and it still came out shitty :|

Sights look awesome though.
>> No. 696 ID: b9a23c
  This video is quite helpful.


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