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Patches and Stickers for sale here

File 135266103474.png - (143.86KB , 624x299 , Magpul_PDR-GVD2.png )
541 No. 541 ID: 4141c6 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
After hitting the sack friday night, I started thinking about an SMG/PDW design that would be bullpup, fully ambi and fed from the bottom (as is the standard today) but also ejects down (P90 style).

The general advantages of this are:
+ Easy ambi usage
+ No distracting brass flying past your face
+ No gas pushed past your face, even when suppressed
+ All advantages of a bullpup (barrel length, short, easy to wield in CQB, etc)

The detractors are:
- No easy access to the chamber, will need to use a workaround
- All disadvantages of bullpups (manual of arms, trigger, etc)

Let me explain the idea with this badly shopped Magpul PDR.

Basically, you have a conventional pistol caliber bullpup SMG. However, the gun is set up to let the bolt recoil about 5 cm past the mag (and thus past the conventional location of the ejection port). The area behind the magazine is hollow, as with a P90, allowing ejection downwards.
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7 posts omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 562 ID: 08d0a9
Honestly, after actually shooting the KRISS, the recoil management system and "re-vectoring" is more hype than reality. I couldn't notice a significant difference between the muzzle rise on the KRISS and an HK UMP. With the stock extended you save only 3" with the KRISS and give up 2.5" of barrel length vs. the UMP. They both weigh the same.

I use the UMP as a comparison because I have experience with it and it's a common modern .45 ACP submachinegun that would be a natural competitor for LE/MIL contracts.
>> No. 564 ID: 69c279
>And yes, it is tall, but if you use it as the buttstock, that height no issue.

Except that it wouldn't work nearly as well if you move it closer to the shoulder though?

If it did work so great, surely they'd long have made a 7.62x51 bullpup rifle with negligable recoil? That shit would sell like hot cakes.
>> No. 566 ID: e8ff9a

Behind the fire control hand the Kriss mechanism would actually increase muzzle rise.
>> No. 571 ID: 402cef
File 135319150470.jpg - (53.05KB , 750x360 , 1339128723.jpg )
As it turns out, engineers at S&W didn't think it such a bad idea.
>> No. 572 ID: 402cef
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Too bad it was so horribly made that rumours say it would break after 1000 rounds fired. The rear would often break off & seperate from the SMG entirely.

I'm not entirely suprized since S&W was the same company back then that couldn't fucking copy the Swedish K without fucking it up (supposedly). :s

File 135224446912.jpg - (253.75KB , 900x527 , one pin problem.jpg )
528 No. 528 ID: e32a8f hide watch quickreply [Reply]
I'm making little repairs to make my PBEAR functional. First problem was that the upper had a large pivot pin hole (It's an old Colt), so I got an adapter for that, and now it fits well.

However, a new problem has appeared: my trigger pin has a tendency to walk out on me after 40 shots or so, which disables the trigger until fixed.

I'm gonna get these pins with little screw caps on them:


Are there any tips or tricks I should know about trigger pins, or anything else I can do to keep them in place?
>> No. 529 ID: 394c39
File 135224547687.jpg - (92.03KB , 800x600 , Norgon_Ambi-Catch_and_KNS_Precision_Non-Rotational.jpg )
I see a lot of people use this style too

>> No. 530 ID: 1341b4
Check your springs, and see if they are laying as they should. The legs of the spring should be resting in one of the little grooves to prevent it from coming out on it's own.
>> No. 531 ID: f9a97c
/\ This.
Spring tension, or incorrect assembly is the usual cause for walking pins.
>> No. 532 ID: e32a8f
Interesting. This is probably what it is.

I've taken the trigger and hammer out, because there was no other way to reset it. When I get around to putting them back in, I'll be sure to make sure the spring goes in the groove.
>> No. 554 ID: 467d63
Yeah on my first assembly attempt I missed the little grooves, its a pretty easy fix and quick fix though.

File 135243840767.gif - (145.98KB , 991x855 , 1897.gif )
533 No. 533 ID: 7b9a9b hide watch quickreply [Reply]
So the last time I went shooting with my 1897, the cartridge stop screw on the right side of the receiver fell out (maybe slamfiring it too much?) and I can't find a replacement part. I would assume that the left and right sides are interchangeable. It's #28/9 on the diagram here.

Otherwise the gun works fine other than I have to manually push the cartridge stop back in before I pump the action every time, more or less. My googlefu is lacking and I've found some parts for other guns but I do not know if they would work, or simply I'm retarded in my searches. Also while we're on the subject, do any of you know where I can acquire a bayonet lug/heatsheild?
>> No. 537 ID: 843198
File 13525214029.jpg - (156.00KB , 718x978 , Win1897.jpg )
left and right cartridge stop screws.
>> No. 538 ID: 843198

forgot links

>> No. 544 ID: 7b9a9b
maxi you mag nigga, much obliged sir

File 135205541628.jpg - (2.27MB , 2448x3264 , gunrack.jpg )
513 No. 513 ID: 290919 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
The woodwork is done - just have to make the pistol holders for the bottom middle and add the decor.
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>> No. 527 ID: 84c1bf
>>Unrelated, but do you happen to be Polish?

No: I just really like Manto. The company makes exceptional MMA equipment and BJJ Gi's. I have a tendency to destroy my training gear.
>> No. 534 ID: 7268d5
File 135249616252.jpg - (494.85KB , 1936x1164 , 1.jpg )
Running out of room, god fucking damnit.
>> No. 535 ID: ffba8d
Just letting you know, I want to be your friend, because you seem like someone I would hang out with on a daily basis.
>> No. 536 ID: 7268d5
If you're ever somewhere near Ottawa, we can go get a beer.
>> No. 539 ID: c26fa2
I wish I had that kind of room.

The safe is getting awfully cramped as of late.

File 134964848511.jpg - (76.76KB , 639x384 , 3RiflesA.jpg )
424 No. 424 ID: 50df12 hide watch quickreply [Reply]
One of my buddies just gave me his old Hawken Muzzleloader and it's a nice gun but it has one small problem. I can't get the back(set) trigger to work, when I pull it nothing happens.

Does anyone know how I can fix it?
>> No. 459 ID: ca3f3a
I assume you've taken it apart and inspected for any breaks or parts not connected?
>> No. 462 ID: f9a97c
Last flintlock I fired, you pulled the rear trigger to 'set' the lock, then the front.

French trade lock, if that matters.

Otherwise, as mentioned above pull the lock and trigger, and look for crusty bits.
>> No. 489 ID: 112f35
Found the problem, the adjustment screw was out of whack.
>> No. 493 ID: f9a97c
Someone turned something they shouldnt have, or it was damaged?
>> No. 506 ID: 8ab3ba
Good thing about flint/caplocs is that most of the small parts can replaced, fixed, or even replicated very ad-hockedly with just a few files.

the pins holding the trigger assembly on my .22 together came out of my various doodad drawer :)

File 134646769432.jpg - (37.39KB , 768x512 , NHAVAC1.jpg )
240 No. 240 ID: 61ee88 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
My New Haven Model 250CB has stopped working. I pull the trigger and hear it go *click* but there's no dent on the primer from what I can tell. I've never had it apart and I can't find a guide for it on the internet.
Could one of you fine chaps tell me what the problem might be or instruct me on how to take it down?

It hasn't been cleaned in at least 20 years
1 post omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 245 ID: 8da9d4
If you're still worried about it I can take some pics of my 151k to illustrate.
>> No. 246 ID: 465a88
Nope, I got it. Thank you.
>> No. 259 ID: 69ed1e
File 134679974826.jpg - (39.13KB , 800x532 , 20-10-2011christof.jpg )
>It hasn't been cleaned in at least 20 years
Jeez, dump it in a vat of Hoppes.

polite sage
>> No. 267 ID: 584d7e
woo hoo new haven gun. that is all.
>> No. 495 ID: b90722
My CJ-2A hadn't been serviced in probably 60 years since it was a hauler on a tree farm. My god the problems it had. Every brake line had been bent somehow and unbent by hand, hoses rotting, the gas tank was repaired using roofing shingles and epoxy, the axle key for the left rear spindle was missing and the hub/drum seized onto the spindle and required a machine shop to rip it off.
The brakes were all worn down to the shoes, the rear cylinders were locked up and didn't work, the front just barely, the front right bearings were cooked as it was run when it completely ran out of grease, those factory Timkens made in US had no chance, the other bearings were perfectly fine.
The entire electrical harness was completely patched and wrapped in black electrical tape, all hope of finding what was positive and negative is completely gone, and most of the body below the fenders were patched with aluminum sheets.
Good thing;
The motor was a US military overflow that was put into the civilian CJ-2As shortly after the war.
It ran great and bore those 60 years of abuse well.

The worst thing you can do is not service your shit.

File 134783528947.jpg - (1.36MB , 1224x1632 , DSC03974.jpg )
304 No. 304 ID: d6e397 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
So, a couple weeks ago the front latch gizmo on the stamped floorplate of my RC K98 snapped off. I did a temp fix that worked quite well using JB weld but ordered a correct milled one anyway. Yesterday I got the milled floorplate which looked great, but would not quite fit my rifle.

Like a fucking retard, I then decided to try removing the floorplate catch assembly in order to figure out how to get this thing to fit, as it is the correct k98 length and everything. Well, turns out that this particular rifle apparently had the plunger/spring from hell and I basically spent all of last night, and this afternoon trying to push it back in far enough while simultaneously trying to pound the crosspin in on the towel covered cement floor of the shed. Finally I got pissed off enough that I cut a couple links off the spring after seeing that they're cheap and still with great difficulty got everything back together and in seemingly functional shape.

Well I go to put the old stamped floorplate on and it doesn't fit. I took a closer look and FUCK, I apparently bent in one side of the "magwell" area just a little bit in my fury. Is this something a gunsmith can fix? Maybe heating it up, putting it in a vice and putting something through the hole to pound it back out a little? It's not bent a whole lot, but just enough to not allow the floorplate to fit.

Needless to say I hate myself right now, but I would really like to know it's not permanently boned because of my ineptitude.
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>> No. 311 ID: d6e397
File 134793241610.jpg - (1.38MB , 1632x1224 , DSC03976.jpg )
Gunsmith didn't even charge me anything. Just took it in the back for 2 minutes while I looked at rifles for sale and brought it back nice and perfect. I'm kinda glad since I want to use this for deer this season instead of my my AK backup. Also I felt bad for fucking up history, no matter how parted out/insignificant it is.

Sometime this winter I think I'll make a thread and show how to (as I learn it) strip the shellac off this thing and go with zee German original finish. I won't polish the bolt or anything silly like that though.
>> No. 312 ID: b68f06
File 13479343103.jpg - (102.86KB , 800x600 , IMG_1337.jpg )
>> I won't polish the bolt or anything silly like that though.

Why not? You could up the value by, like, 500%.
>> No. 313 ID: d6e397
File 134793527681.jpg - (857.62KB , 1632x1224 , DSC03978.jpg )
OOH YEAH! Maybe buy some stamps to make myself an SS issue.

I love how they're marketing that rifle as some untouched lost treasure, and don't even bother replacing the postwar Russian PPSH sling or whatever it is that came with it as a RC, also fairly sure that little metal can is of Russian origin as well.

Though admittedly I had to improvise slingwise until I can afford one of the repro sling/capture screw/ cleaning rod packages (saving up for an M&P9 first).
>> No. 431 ID: c3ca0b
Like Mitchell's gives a shit and anyone that won't do the 15 min research into what Mitchell's is and does they deserve the "treasure" they get.
>> No. 494 ID: b90722
Or the Yugoslavian pull through, mag pouches and dis-assembly/cleaning tools.

File 134662469432.jpg - (33.10KB , 384x251 , wa-12-B.jpg )
249 No. 249 ID: 843198 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
okay, I'm sick and tired of this asshole locksmith and his stubborn wife constantly snooping around my bedroom when I'm not home. I want to trap the door to scare the shit out of them every time it's opened without my approval.

my idea is to use a CO2 cylinter, a Bosun's Whistle/boatswain's pipe, and whatever else to make a huge loud noise whenever some unauthorized individual opens my door.

how can I do this?
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>> No. 319 ID: c6755d
File 134836285596.jpg - (48.47KB , 870x245 , burglar bomb.jpg )
You must check out the burglar bomb products. Perfect for this.

>> No. 323 ID: 0668be
>a couple of dollars
I can get airhorns at my local dollar store for even less.

Nice AOW. What's your address? I have some friends who would love to check it out.
>> No. 410 ID: f065ad
12 gauge blank firing and flare guns are legal. That is all I have made.
>> No. 414 ID: 8abcec
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>> No. 490 ID: 144936
Do you have any idea how hard it would be to clean OC out of carpet? This sounds awesome, but you'd have to come in a clean up after it went off.

File 135051315535.jpg - (2.58MB , 3264x2448 , promag 013.jpg )
441 No. 441 ID: b4b692 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
[Most]posts should have a picture of the accessory or item of discussion. Here we will discuss what was good or bad, what went wrong or how it made things better. A review if you will. We will discuss what we have learned from each item and weather or not its worth buying.
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>> No. 461 ID: b4b692
File 135095158488.jpg - (2.69MB , 3264x2448 , promag 016.jpg )
Now there is this thing. The Promag picatinny rail mounted battery compartment thingy. It fits on there but does not feel that comfortable to put your hand on. It seems to narrow too sharply, thin like in feel. Makes the weapon feel strange. Almost, not weapon like. More like a toy or poorly designed squirt gun. Feels weird.
>> No. 467 ID: 3e4848
File 135119605716.jpg - (2.27MB , 1944x2592 , DSC01929.jpg )
I saw these 'fat' comps on The Firearm Blog and thought it would make for a good birthday present for my friend's AR. I got it because it's freaken huge and reminded me of something from Borderlands 2 and by friend really likes Borderlands so I thought "why not, its cool looking."

MADE IN TAIWAN. Not that its bad, just thought I would share.

(I'm not taking it out of the box since its a present, but after he puts it on his AR and we go to the range there may be some more pics and a range report.)
>> No. 470 ID: f9a97c
"T6 aluminum"

Well, that says a lot. Of nothing.
>> No. 480 ID: c52779
b-b-but it's hard coat anodize!
>> No. 482 ID: f9a97c
May as well be "raincoat" anodize.

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220 No. 220 ID: 65af30 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
Well, the bug is back, and I've decided to build another FAL, again, as I have enough spare parts to build one for around $600. I've decided I actually like the way the late '70s, early '80s Argies looked, and am considering purchasing a Coonan Type 3 receiver. However, this isn't intended to be a reproduction build, so I'm not going to stick extremely close to its asthetics and will probably purchase a DSA Medium Contour barrel instead of the standard sized ones.

How long is DSA's turnaround on barrels? Have you gentlemen had or know of any issues mating DSA and Coonan parts? Anything to look out for on the Coonan receivers? I was also wondering how well a long browning style flash hider fit against a medium control barrel as well (does it leave a gap that I'll have to washer fill?) or if I'll have to use the belgium short style.

Finally, I am considering two furniture types. Ironwood Design's STG58 Plate or G1-A, or (the cheaper option) a generic polymer humpback butt in OD-Green. Thoughts between the two ID stocks?

Of course, this is all pending my next paycheck.
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>> No. 427 ID: 123dc5
You should convince Oleg to take pictures of you.

And I have nothing of value to add to this, I'm sure Meplat will be along eventually to give your answer.
>> No. 428 ID: f9a97c
For a FAL/L1A1? Nope. I used a chunk of oak and a vise with lead jaws. Then a huge Crescent wrench.
>> No. 452 ID: b2766e

Well, I was kinda hoping to tighten it down to FN factory spec; and a receiver wrench with a torque wrench is the only real way to do that.


Who's Oleg?
>> No. 453 ID: 7268d5
Oleg is the dude who takes all these pictures.


He has a lot of guns/girls/pro-gun stuff. Good pics.
>> No. 466 ID: f9a97c
You know that hole in the handle of a crescent wrench?

A large spring scale will hook in there just fine. Then you use a bit of math to account for the variance in arm.

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