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Patches and Stickers for sale here

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454 No. 454 ID: 67bb0b hide watch quickreply [Reply]
Is there anything you guys would like me to look for when I take her out? When I get back I'll take pics and shit for a full review.
>> No. 457 ID: 824045
I just want to know if take-down is as horrible as on the GSG-5.
>> No. 458 ID: d39eec
Please, go dress EXACTLY like that picture.

Also how finicky is with shit ammo
>> No. 465 ID: d63e10
This. The GSG-5 is fun to shoot, but holy shit, you would have to try hard to engineer a more pain in the ass way to take down the damn thing.

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40 No. 40 ID: f8e3fc hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
Dunno if I should put this here or in /k/ but I'm looking to, over the course of the next year or so, build myself an AR15.

What I'm looking to build (pic kinda related):
- MOE furniture
- Dissipator for maximum sight radius + places I can put my hands
- 16" barrel

Questions I have:
- carbine vs mid-length gas system?
- depending on the above choice what sort of buffer?
- what sort of tools will I need to complete the build?
- advantages of various BCG coatings? (what's the difference between a $150 BCG and a $300 BCG?)
- what parts should I sink the most money into to get maximum returns on investment in terms of accuracy / reliability? (I figure barrel, BCG and trigger)

other than that I'd appreciate any advice / suggestions people have
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>> No. 53 ID: f8e3fc

you sir have excellent taste in books
>> No. 55 ID: 44666e
Why thank you, sir. "Blood Meridian" is perhaps my favorite book, up there with "The Fall" by Camus. I'm constantly rereading the novel, to the point where I can start reading a scene and finish it in my head. One of these days I'll get "Et in Arcadia ego" engraved on a gun (perhaps the pictured AR), just like the Judge's rifle, as "wrought German silver" seems a bit much for anodized aluminum.
>> No. 455 ID: 76486c
That's a sexy AR.
>> No. 456 ID: b47bd6
Holy dicks, they are currently asking 800 fucking dollars for those dissy uppers. What in the actual fuck?
>> No. 481 ID: 123dc5
$150 more than I paid...
Looks about the same overall, they also charge $50 for it to be shipped with MOE furniture, election price gouging in full effect.

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223 No. 223 ID: a44a95 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
OK, so my 1911 hasn't been performing like it used to when I first got it. I've put an estimated 2K rounds through it in the last three years, and that's just an estimate. Probably less, but who knows for certain.

Anyways, I recently stripped it for cleaning, and the hot round had a indentation on the primer, but not centered where the firing pin is, and nor round.

I've sidelined the pistol until I can figure out how that happened, but I figure hey, if I'm not going to carry it in the mean time, why not take it to the next level and learn to do my own armorer work on it?

It's a skill that could prove useful, and it can't really be that much more difficult than repairing an airplane. If Meplat can do it, I can learn to do it, right?

So, the starting point is to get an Armorer's Manual, that much is obvious. But, what's the best armorer's manual to get? I'd rather not get the internet knockoff manual that's got steps in the wrong order.

Pic related.
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>> No. 293 ID: 609d6f
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>> No. 301 ID: a44a95
Thank you. :)

Those are seriously awesome. I've got most of that just from buying the A&P list at school, the rest shouldn't be too much trouble.

Hell, the hardest thing might be getting a vice, since I don't really have much of a place to mount one at the moment.
>> No. 302 ID: 609d6f
I have the "Aircraft Repairmen" ones too. Much more extensive though.
>> No. 314 ID: a468a6

So awesome.
>> No. 412 ID: 6fced1
By the time I finish out the MAF list, and get a few tools that I've seen in my boss's shop and know will come in handy, I'll still spend the rest of my life buying tools here and there, whenever I see a tool that would save me a great deal of time or profanity.

I've never met a mechanic who actually has every tool he'll ever need. Met a lot that make do with what they have because they can't afford purpose-built tools, though.

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278 No. 278 ID: b68f06 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
When I first put it together it fed normally most of the time, a couple failure to feeds. I got a Geissele SSA-E trigger for my birthday and installed it, and now with most mags it refuses to pick up another round after I fire. 75% of the failures it doesn't pick up a round at all and the other 25% the rounds get stuck halfway out of the mag.

I went through 5 mags today, 2 pmags and 3 GI with magpul followers. All work flawlessly in my colt.

In my Stag build 1 GI mag fed perfectly, 1 pmag fed with 1 ftf, the other 2 GIs and pmag had a ftf after every 1 or 2 rounds.

What do?
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>> No. 386 ID: b68f06
Looks like it
>> No. 387 ID: d3252a
Dont worry bro, I got my rifle complete from CMMG a long ass time ago. Yeah it was a bargain bin. I never had the time or money to shoot it, and upon shooting it my gas rings bent up in the BCG. Took it in to get it fixed. He didnt have any gas rings in the entire store (even in his personal stock). I got talked into shooting it a few times, Shits all locked up again, WEeeeeeeeeeeeee.
>> No. 388 ID: c52779
strange. my buddy's CMMG never had any issues. If they keep bending, maybe your bolt is fucked?
>> No. 396 ID: d3252a
It might be a lube issue as well. I had been using a hoppes gun lubricant, Guy at the gun store recommended something thicker, It would no surprise me if that was the case.

Ive yet to get new rings on it (after this recent shooting). I was semi tempted to order the single gas ring.

Link related: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=18722/Product/AR-15-MCFARLAND-trade-BOLT-GAS-RING

Ive heard good and bad things about it.

Never had this issue when I was in the army, So I think it is a mix of A) Super super tight tolerances. The takedown pins require a bit of force (read taps with a hammer) to get out. B) Lack of good quality lube.

While on the subject. What lube do you guys suggest? I live in a humid environment (South texas).
>> No. 400 ID: c52779
interdasting. to be completely honest, my BCM and bushmaster spend half their life dry. I keep better care at lubing the BCM up but the bushmaster stays dry, no real issues with anything unless I never clean it ever.

the takedown pins will get easier with time, the mag catch is pretty similar, very rough at the beginning

as far as lube, I've used grease on the bolt, works pretty well when it's clean to start, but I use Hoppes Elite oil on my BCM when it's dirty from LOLPMC ammo. make it wet and it fucking runs like a raped ape.

in any case, I can't imagine the oil effecting the gas rings. you might want to check for burrs or something abnormal in the carrier and on the bolt

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286 No. 286 ID: 43f401 hide watch quickreply [Reply]
I have acquired a american gun co double barrel hammerless 12 gauge but don't know what length the chamber is on this thing. How would I go about finding this out?
>> No. 289 ID: 609d6f
There is a gauge, that basically slides down and stops on the cone.

but judging by the ad and the brand, at WORST it's a 2" shell, and likely a 2&1/2" chamber.

If it's a twist steel barrel, you're stuck with handloading, and using overshot card wads. Crimp shells can cause problems.
>> No. 294 ID: 43f401
How would I make a gauge to check this? Could I make it from 3/4 pvc pipe? I know I can fit a 2 and 3/4 in the chamber but I'm not sure if it has room to unfold.
>> No. 296 ID: 609d6f
The diameter of the chamber toward the muzzle should be a nominal 0.798”. If you turn a bit of aluminum to that diameter for at least 3", then insert it into the chamber you can gauge the chamber length.

I would be hesitant to shoot petal crimp shells in a shotgun of that vintage.
>> No. 305 ID: 883d06
I was able to fit a fired 2 3/4" without bending the folds and a loaded 3" without forcing it. I'm going to try some low brass #6 shot then high brass and inspect the shells and barrel for bulges.
>> No. 306 ID: 609d6f
You'll probably notice it kicks harder with petal crimp shells, first thing.

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2 No. 2 ID: bad329 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
Let us celebrate the return of /st/ with a stripped guns thread.

Post field stripped, detail stripped, or diagrams of firearms in this thread, preferably labelled to help those unfamiliar with terms. Bonus if they're guns you own!

I'll start us off with a very basic one, a Remington 870 field stripped.
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>> No. 86 ID: 3e4848
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Bought a Mosin Nagant yesterday. I'll post it in /k/ when its assembled.
>> No. 87 ID: 3e4848
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Also sanded the finish off the stock and I'm refinishing it.
>> No. 88 ID: 3e4848
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2 coats of stain and polyurethane combo later. I may go for a few more to darken it up, or I may not.
>> No. 297 ID: 02160d
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My camera sucks, so awhile ago I attempted this breakdown on a scanner. Surfaces in contact w/ the glass came out great, but definition is lost with distance from the surface. It's an FN-Herstal M1910 .32ACP, dated 1913. This pistol has a lower serial # than the one used to assassinate Archduke Franz Ferdinand.
>> No. 298 ID: 02160d
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As far as I can tell, everything on this pistol is original. It functioned flawlessly during the one range test we did, but the sights are practically non-existent, so aiming is mostly instinctive.

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263 No. 263 ID: 64a39d hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
Looks like a box. Not all that special until you notice its from the Czech Republic. Wonder what could be in there?
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>> No. 265 ID: 64a39d
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So what's IN the paper? It's a black box with THESE inside. Anyone want to take bets on what they are?
>> No. 266 ID: 64a39d
File 134697442059.jpg - (2.02MB , 3264x2448 , 2012-09-06 18_57 sanitized.jpg )
Spoiler alert - they're night sights for my Vz.58! The sights consist of two components, the rear sight in the bottom of the previous picture clips onto the rear. The sight is a folded steel box open facing the front of the gun. The bottom of the box is a spring clip that snaps over the end of the rear sight and holds the night sight in place. The night sight has two phosphorescent orange stripes and an extra large notch that allows a clear view of...
>> No. 268 ID: 64a39d
File 134697497648.jpg - (3.51MB , 3264x2448 , 2012-09-06 18_58_31.jpg )
...the front sight. It sits on top of the front sight post and is held in place by that wire hook. The hook pulls the front sight down tight on the post too keep it from popping off. I have a Czechpoint imported Vz.58 with a welded on barrel extension that is wider than the original barrel, so the hook has to re-profiled a touch to get a tight fit. The hook is soft wire, so it wasn't a big deal. The front sight glows green in the dark.

Speaking of glowing, these things aren't all that bright. I suppose I can't be surprised, seeing as these things probably older than I am (I'm 23 for reference). I don't mind all that much since I've a) never seen them in the US before and b) they are more of a historical novelty for me. Oh! and c), they were only $26.50 including shipping from EUROPE. Now I need a Czech issue muzzle brake to complete the package...
>> No. 269 ID: e48719
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East German clip on AK night sights were here.
>> No. 295 ID: e48719
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271 No. 271 ID: 71bd60 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
So I just finished reading the book A Rifle Anyone can build by Jerry Lindsey. The short version is that the plan is based on the old single-shot, .22lr rolling block rifle. There are no mills or lathes necessary and the tools are very basic.

Here is the book: http://www.amazon.com/A-Rifle-Anyone-Can-Build/dp/0557317681/

Here's a very nice video explaining how a rolling block action operates: http://videos.midwayusa.com/index.php/show/how_a_rolling_block_operates_-_the_cycle_of_operation?id=1_l1hg1a72
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>> No. 273 ID: 71bd60
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My plan for the project is to make a few modifications.
1) I'd like to make a custom stock for it out of a nicer wood fit for my particular body frame with a raised cheek rest.
2) I'm considering changing the design from .22lr to a 12ga. It's a lower pressure and slightly more versatile.
3) I'd like to scan the designs, make 3D scaled models of them and then post them for download or to buy from shapeways.com as stainless steel.Thoughts?
>> No. 274 ID: 3e4848
Thanks for the book review, its much appreciated. I may have some DIY rifle .pdf's if you're interested.
>> No. 275 ID: 71bd60
I'd love them! I already have the "Home Workshop Guns" series but at the moment those are bit above my level of tooling/ability.
>> No. 277 ID: 3e4848
I just put a few here in /z/

>> No. 279 ID: 71bd60
Thank you!

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260 No. 260 ID: b68f06 hide watch quickreply [Reply]
I got my sister a Remington 597 awhile back for her birthday. She only put a couple hundred rounds through it. I go to clean it and the bolt appears to have a hole in it, under the extractor.

I looked it up and others also have holes, some say it's supposed to be there others don't.

Is it something I should contact Remington about?
>> No. 261 ID: e48719
it's supposed to be there, don't worry about it.
>> No. 262 ID: e57de6
It's a spot where the wall is machined really really thin, sometimes it breaks through sometimes it doesn't. Don't worry about it.

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230 No. 230 ID: 3e4848 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
So living in NY sucks ass. I have to pin and weld a muzzle break (no flash hiders) and I have to remove my bayonet lug (still). I bought a 14.7" barreled upper since I would have to pin and weld anyways and a YHM muzzle break that would bring it beyone 16" (16.2" measured).

So I marked my break and with a silver sharpie and center punched it...
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>> No. 241 ID: 9ae271
Such is life in the communist Northeast. Are you going to patch the finish or leave it bare?
>> No. 242 ID: 3e4848
What do you mean by patch? I just colored it black with a sharpie and if that wears off I have some black high temp grill paint I could use.
>> No. 243 ID: 9ae271
That's exactly what I meant to say...and failed spectacularly to do so. Nice work regardless.
>> No. 248 ID: 609d6f
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>> I just colored it black with a sharpie

Also handy for "refinishing" AR-15's!
>> No. 253 ID: 3e4848
Yea I had a small nick on my lower form when I built it and now its not even noticeable thanks to a sharpie.

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