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Patches and Stickers for sale here

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207 No. 207 ID: 7f1363 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
I have a Remington Model 31 with a strange muzzle break on it.

Has anyone seen anything similar before?
What variant of M-31 is this?
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>> No. 214 ID: 609d6f
Those hold the body IIRC. They used to offer differing length bodies as well, but they weren't as useful as the different choke sizes. There should be a radiused mounting behind it, that is attached to the barrel.

If the choke tube is really stuck, hit it with some Kroil and a little heat. Repeat this a few times and it should loosen up.
>> No. 215 ID: d3c6ff
Fuck, do want.
>> No. 216 ID: 7f1363

Thanks Meplat!
>> No. 217 ID: b2e63f
Thank you, Meplat. I've been needing to clean the ribs since I inherited it. The gun was made in 1933, and was my great-grandfather's favorite pheasant gun. One of the things I love about it, is there's a rust mark on the receiver from where his thumb would ride while carrying it low.
>> No. 218 ID: 609d6f
A last word about these Cutts.

They not only sold chokes.

They sold a tube called a "spreader". Not a duckbill, but close enough.

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48 No. 48 ID: 8a1019 hide watch quickreply [Reply]
hey all was at the range the other day and the RSO showed me this badass app for droids and iphones, not a spam plug here, there are a few free guns and some collections you can buy. it allows you to strip a gun down and reassemble it and it times you anyways check it out
it called gun dis assembly 2
>> No. 54 ID: 3e4848
Torrent for the demo:
>> No. 72 ID: 22f64c
Just got this for my iPhone. Freaking love it. It's not exactly good at teaching you how to detail strip a weapon, but it does show you the order in which parts are removed and it does it for some very interesting weapons.

It's more than just that though. You can view the gun in x-ray vision and watch the weapon cycle at varying speeds. You can just plain watch an M16A1 dump a whole mag in real time, or you can go into x-ray mode and slow down time to 10% and watch each part move individually.

The app itself is free and it comes with about a dozen guns. You have to buy other ones. Definitely way more fun watching someone detail strip a Luger instead of playing Angry Birds when you're on the toilet.
>> No. 184 ID: 69ed1e
I downloaded it yesterday. This app is pretty cool once you get used to the controls. Sometimes the order in which you have to take things apart is kind of derp, but whatevs. If a couple other guys wanna chip in, we can pool $50 for an opchan account for the full version of the app. Mite b cool.
>> No. 210 ID: 9e392f
I've actually had this for a while; been using it to help me design some weapons of my own for fun.

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108 No. 108 ID: 4c2259 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
Sup. The finish is getting pretty worn on the AK74 pictured here. Bare metal is exposed on the high spots, where the safety rubs, and where the dust cover rubs on the receiver. As well as on the bayonet lug and FSB and various other places. I think it's a parkerized finish. Anyway, if I were to want to refinish, would I have to strip off the remaining park first? I also want it to be more black than the dark grey it is currently.
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>> No. 142 ID: 292372
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And after. A nice coat of Remoil or CLP also helps to add some shine to it.
>> No. 147 ID: 4c2259
Good to know. Thanks.
>> No. 151 ID: a468a6
Sir, I require your RPK sling. Where did you get it and what did you pay for it?
>> No. 205 ID: e32a8f
How do you clean the muzzle brake? Does it have to be taken off all the time, or what?
>> No. 206 ID: 1341b4
Yeah. But it's not difficult to remove. Just push in the button and unscrew.

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112 No. 112 ID: 8062b4 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
Probably going to post some field stripped guns. If I care to, I'll take a pic when I detail one at some point.

I have no problem answering requests.
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>> No. 127 ID: 8062b4
Also, any places that ship to Canadia? I'm having trouble enough as it is just finding the fucking 22/45 parts. I thought this shit was popular.
>> No. 128 ID: 609d6f
Ah hah! Check the furniture!

Anyhow, Ruger parts? , if Numrich doesnt have them, then no idea. You tried calling Ruger customer service?
>> No. 129 ID: 8062b4
>office chair
>shelving unit

I'm still stumped. I'll check Numrich, I always forget that company! Thanks.
>> No. 130 ID: 8062b4
I also checked the clothes I was wearing at the time. It's happened before that I've found a tiny screw had somehow bounced three feet off carpet back into a crease in the pants.

Because small parts don't give FLYING FUCK about the laws of physics.

I'll call my gunsmith too, he may have those parts.
>> No. 198 ID: 8062b4
Finally got the two detent pin things from Ruger and put it all back together.

Flying thundercunt fagballs, I practically had sex with it to get everything in the lower back together without the pins or various bits falling back out. They may make a good little semi-auto, but it took tweezers, all of my fingers (all of them, all at the same time), my crotch and my tongue to get one of the pins in (the one that holds the safety, it's little detent pin that likes to go flying off, the hammer and sear (sear has to be on load), the trigger connector and one of the spring things).

I had my pinky through the frame slot at the back to hold the safety, other pinky at the front of the frame to hold in the trigger bar so its spring and pin didn't fly out, rest of one hand to manipulate the tweezers and the other hand to get the bits in the right place, my tongue to push the pin through the whole mess and it was all balanced on my crotch. I think all the other guns are going to be jealous for a while.

I'm done for a while on detailing shit that probably shouldn't be detailed by my incompetent hands. Mineral oil and air compressor from now on...

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188 No. 188 ID: 75c150 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
Heya guys,

For the longest time I'd wanted to put a pistol grip and collapsible stock on my SOC II, however with Cali law requiring me to put a bullet button on it that way, I decided to hold off on it.

Now that I'm in Oregon, I decided it was time to give her some love.

The first thing I did was remove the clunky rail system, never mounted anything on it anyways, and it was just extra weight and mass. I might put a small bottom rail and AFG on in the future, but we'll see.

I looked around at the various options for stocks, and, well, they're all kinda pricey:


You can also find the old Choate ones with the pistol grip and fixed folders, but they're still around the $150 mark...and ebay pulled the one I was bidding on because they deemed it too dangerous or something stupid.
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>> No. 192 ID: 75c150
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Where the screw sits, way out of the way of the bolt and trigger group.
>> No. 193 ID: 75c150
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And the reverse of inside the grip.
>> No. 194 ID: 75c150
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Feels pretty damn good, definitely a bit lighter too.

Now comes the fun part: a liberal application of JB weld to fix everything in, followed by some epoxy, then a paintjob when I get time/a place to do that...spraypainting in the apartment is probably not a good idea...

I'll get some more pics up once everything's dried and sanded down to look nicer, but that'll probably be tomorrow since by the time everything dries it'll already be pretty late.

Overall liking it a lot so far though, spent $50 for the pistol grip and buffer tube, so already much cheaper than any of the other options.

Thanks for reading!

>> No. 196 ID: 824045
Pretty cool. Is the buffer tube not quite parallel with the barrel? Was that intentional?
>> No. 197 ID: 75c150

It's not perfectly parallel, I was alright with having the stock slightly off, I got it to a point where it was comfortable to shoulder and gave a pretty good cheekweld (although I would need a cheek riser for any optics, but that's common with M1As), I mainly focused on getting the pistol grip to a good spot where it was comfortable and also gave enough room for the trigger guard to be pulled out for field stripping.

I'm by nowhere means skilled at this kind of thing, actually my first project like this, so I was mainly concerned with getting it to work, if it's slightly off, that's alright. It's sturdy, comfortable, and fits on the rifle well.

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77 No. 77 ID: d4e90a hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
Placeholder for this weekends getting drunk and chopping down a shotgun thread.

I'm buying a sears model 20 and am going to chop the 28 or 32 in barrel to a more manageable 21 inches. Why 21 you ask? I can then possibly get it threaded for chokes, or have a gunsmith make a true cut at 20 or 18 if I fuck up
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>> No. 93 ID: c8e21f
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How it is now. It's 18-18 inches now.

Sexy gun is sexy too
>> No. 137 ID: 261dc4
SBS Stamp it, then make it into the shotgun from 'The Punisher' with Thomas Jane in it
>> No. 164 ID: 93d765
The more pressing question is: Why are you in a motel room, chopping down an old shotgun?
>> No. 166 ID: 8062b4
>in b4 retro goes "brb I think chigurh is here"
>> No. 185 ID: 7ae0c1
Between apartments for a few days, lol.

I'm considering SBRing it if it's around by 21.
Thinking of selling it to get a 1911.

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140 No. 140 ID: 8b8b5c hide watch quickreply [Reply]
My Winchester 1200 developed a problem last time I took it to the range. It would sometimes not strike the primer. I would hear it go click, but the gun would not fire, and the primer would have no indentation. This was the second time I took it to the range, and after I had partially disassembled it last time to clean it.

How might I have fucked up?
What should I take pictures of to give you information?
Picture is stock photo of gun.
>> No. 146 ID: 083f9c
>firing pin
>firing pin spring
>> No. 148 ID: 8b8b5c
I dis and re assembled it.
Okay, so how do I know and see if everything is aligned correctly/in it's proper place/functioning?
>> No. 150 ID: 083f9c
is it dirty at all? make sure nothing is obstructing the trigger , make sure the bolt is clean, make sure nothing is obstructing the firing pin.

Inspect the firing pin, check to see if it looks like part of it has broken off.

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78 No. 78 ID: e6f895 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
Alright gents, have a dilemma. My grandpa bought the pictured 1894 Winchester back in the 30's. It's seen some years of use and abuse, mostly the fact my Uncle brought it up to Alaska for bear/moose hunting, and I'm guessing the sea air got to it a bit, and it's starting to show it's age and a good amount of rust. I'm no expert so could someone point me in the right direction of cleaning this rust off and making this thing look factory new again? Not the best picture in the world but you get the idea. I would also like to redo the wood as it's showing it's age as well. This thing'll be a kickass Fathers day gift, as he grew up shooting it, and so did I.

Thanks in advance

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>> No. 97 ID: a468a6
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>How much damage can you really do with 0000 steel wool and oil, anyway?
You'd be surprised. I understand that monetary value of the firearm might not be a big deal to you or your family simply because the shotgun has more sentimental value than anything else, but after you strip the original bluing and replace it with cold blue, the value of the firearm just received a swift kick to the mouth.

If you're going to try to restore your Grandpa's shotgun, do it right. Here's typically how I go about refinishing old guns.

To begin, you first need to strip the original bluing off the metal parts chemically so you don't inadvertently over-work certain areas of the metal with abrasives like steel wool or sandpaper; once you blue it, some areas might end up looking shinier or more dull than others. If you've removed the bluing successfully, go ahead and finish the metal however you want, but I recommend using OO-OOOO steel wool. Use long strokes, going from muzzle to breach on barrels, and from breach to where the stock mates on receivers. Just keep everything going in the same direction. For military rifles, consider sand blasting.

From this point on, you will not handle bare metal with un-gloved fingers.

After your material is prepped, you'll need to de-grease your parts. Not like, spray your parts with carb cleaner de-grease. Like, scrubbing everything with a toothbrush and fresh lacquer thinner until the lacquer thinner running off your parts looks like it's unused. These parts need to be *clean*.

Okay, so assuming your metal is all prepped correctly, let's talk about bluing. First thing's first on old guns with value, don't even think about cold bluing the parts. Cold blue is a really thin coating prone to scratching and corrosion. It's fine for little parts like screws and stuff, but it's no good for receivers, barrels, magazines, etc. Search google for "slow rust bluing", this will yield the best, and more importantly the most period-correct results. The process is too long for me to do a good write-up about it here.

So, if your metal is blued, oiled, and you're happy with it, let's move on to the wood. As a rule of thumb here, all wood finishes from Home Depot are garbage, but you can mix up some pretty good stuff with ingredients from Home Depot or Lowes or whatever. First, de-grease your wood like you de-greased the metal parts, you'll be surprised how much crap the wood has soaked up over the past 80 years. Just like with the metal parts, after the wood is de-greased, it is not allowed to touch your skin, so get some clean latex or nitrile gloves on. Now get yourself some 220 grit sand paper, and sand in the direction of t
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>> No. 100 ID: d3c6ff
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>> No. 102 ID: 9b8e46
Awesome shit. I'll be starting this weekend. I pray to John Moses Browning I don't fuck it up.
>> No. 104 ID: d3c6ff
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I'm sure he'll hear your prayers.
>> No. 144 ID: fbc21e
Man, those pictures of AR-7's never do justice for how fucking huge the stocks are.

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98 No. 98 ID: fb95fa hide watch quickreply [Reply]
Made a video of my latest build. Enjoy.

>> No. 99 ID: 7677e1
oh god dat retro franken gun
>> No. 123 ID: b5ff32
Erm, stupid question:

Are modern parts compatible with the NDS upper?

I mean, I want the trigger charging handle, but don't care if there's MOE or whatever on the rest of the gun.
>> No. 124 ID: 806916
You'd only have to worry about matching the MOE parts to whatever lower and barrel assembly/gas system type you decide to use. But yes, modern small parts fit on the NDS 32 upper, to include new manufacture A1 sight assemblies, bolt carrier groups, and dust cover assemblies. bout all you can put on them.
>> No. 125 ID: 806916
Also MOE parts are perfectly compatible with NDS lowers as well, their specs are very similar to A2 lowers, only difference being the amount of material around the buffer tube threads and the mag release fences depending on whatever magwell you decide one.

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84 No. 84 ID: 2500e0 hide watch quickreply [Reply]
If I bought a Colt 6450, how much could I expect a gunsmith to charge me to drill my PBEAR V2 lower to accept the Colt 9mm mag block and switch all the parts between lowers? Is it unwise to expect the same reliability from the mag block after this is done?

I was thinking about having the upper receiver and FSB replaced with a flattop upper receiver and F-marked FSB, with the FSB at the rifle-length position for 9mm dissipator goodness, but I hear Colt has finally begun making 9mm rifles with flattop parts, so I may wait for those to show up at G&R Tactical.
>> No. 85 ID: 2500e0
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A better look at the extra holes. Looks like the mag block is held in with a couple of roll pins. One of the holes might intrude on the PBE engraving a bit, but whatever.
>> No. 111 ID: 0668be
You could buy a ProMag mag block that works and not have to do anything to your lower.
>> No. 120 ID: 27eed3
If I go that direction, I'll be using a Hahn dedicated mag block. Thanks, though.

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