>>213
Those hold the body IIRC. They used to offer differing length bodies as well, but they weren't as useful as the different choke sizes. There should be a radiused mounting behind it, that is attached to the barrel.

If the choke tube is really stuck, hit it with some Kroil and a little heat. Repeat this a few times and it should loosen up.

>Breakchoke
Fuck, do want.

>>209

Thanks Meplat!

>>214
Thank you, Meplat. I've been needing to clean the ribs since I inherited it. The gun was made in 1933, and was my great-grandfather's favorite pheasant gun. One of the things I love about it, is there's a rust mark on the receiver from where his thumb would ride while carrying it low.

A last word about these Cutts.

They not only sold chokes.

They sold a tube called a "spreader". Not a duckbill, but close enough.

Torrent for the demo:
http://thepiratebay.se/torrent/6333727

Just got this for my iPhone. Freaking love it. It's not exactly good at teaching you how to detail strip a weapon, but it does show you the order in which parts are removed and it does it for some very interesting weapons.

It's more than just that though. You can view the gun in x-ray vision and watch the weapon cycle at varying speeds. You can just plain watch an M16A1 dump a whole mag in real time, or you can go into x-ray mode and slow down time to 10% and watch each part move individually.

The app itself is free and it comes with about a dozen guns. You have to buy other ones. Definitely way more fun watching someone detail strip a Luger instead of playing Angry Birds when you're on the toilet.

I downloaded it yesterday. This app is pretty cool once you get used to the controls. Sometimes the order in which you have to take things apart is kind of derp, but whatevs. If a couple other guys wanna chip in, we can pool $50 for an opchan account for the full version of the app. Mite b cool.

I've actually had this for a while; been using it to help me design some weapons of my own for fun.

And after. A nice coat of Remoil or CLP also helps to add some shine to it.

>>141
Good to know. Thanks.

>>142
Sir, I require your RPK sling. Where did you get it and what did you pay for it?

How do you clean the muzzle brake? Does it have to be taken off all the time, or what?

>>205
Yeah. But it's not difficult to remove. Just push in the button and unscrew.

Also, any places that ship to Canadia? I'm having trouble enough as it is just finding the fucking 22/45 parts. I thought this shit was popular.

>>126
Ah hah! Check the furniture!

Anyhow, Ruger parts? , if Numrich doesnt have them, then no idea. You tried calling Ruger customer service?

>>128
>office chair
>desk
>bed
>shelving unit

I'm still stumped. I'll check Numrich, I always forget that company! Thanks.

>>128
I also checked the clothes I was wearing at the time. It's happened before that I've found a tiny screw had somehow bounced three feet off carpet back into a crease in the pants.

Because small parts don't give FLYING FUCK about the laws of physics.

I'll call my gunsmith too, he may have those parts.

Finally got the two detent pin things from Ruger and put it all back together.

Flying thundercunt fagballs, I practically had sex with it to get everything in the lower back together without the pins or various bits falling back out. They may make a good little semi-auto, but it took tweezers, all of my fingers (all of them, all at the same time), my crotch and my tongue to get one of the pins in (the one that holds the safety, it's little detent pin that likes to go flying off, the hammer and sear (sear has to be on load), the trigger connector and one of the spring things).

I had my pinky through the frame slot at the back to hold the safety, other pinky at the front of the frame to hold in the trigger bar so its spring and pin didn't fly out, rest of one hand to manipulate the tweezers and the other hand to get the bits in the right place, my tongue to push the pin through the whole mess and it was all balanced on my crotch. I think all the other guns are going to be jealous for a while.

I'm done for a while on detailing shit that probably shouldn't be detailed by my incompetent hands. Mineral oil and air compressor from now on...

Where the screw sits, way out of the way of the bolt and trigger group.

And the reverse of inside the grip.

Feels pretty damn good, definitely a bit lighter too.

Now comes the fun part: a liberal application of JB weld to fix everything in, followed by some epoxy, then a paintjob when I get time/a place to do that...spraypainting in the apartment is probably not a good idea...

I'll get some more pics up once everything's dried and sanded down to look nicer, but that'll probably be tomorrow since by the time everything dries it'll already be pretty late.

Overall liking it a lot so far though, spent $50 for the pistol grip and buffer tube, so already much cheaper than any of the other options.

Thanks for reading!

- RTF

Pretty cool. Is the buffer tube not quite parallel with the barrel? Was that intentional?

>>196

It's not perfectly parallel, I was alright with having the stock slightly off, I got it to a point where it was comfortable to shoulder and gave a pretty good cheekweld (although I would need a cheek riser for any optics, but that's common with M1As), I mainly focused on getting the pistol grip to a good spot where it was comfortable and also gave enough room for the trigger guard to be pulled out for field stripping.

I'm by nowhere means skilled at this kind of thing, actually my first project like this, so I was mainly concerned with getting it to work, if it's slightly off, that's alright. It's sturdy, comfortable, and fits on the rifle well.

How it is now. It's 18-18 inches now.

Sexy gun is sexy too

SBS Stamp it, then make it into the shotgun from 'The Punisher' with Thomas Jane in it

The more pressing question is: Why are you in a motel room, chopping down an old shotgun?

>>164
>in b4 retro goes "brb I think chigurh is here"

>>164
Between apartments for a few days, lol.

I'm considering SBRing it if it's around by 21.
Thinking of selling it to get a 1911.

>firing pin
>firing pin spring

>>146
I dis and re assembled it.
Okay, so how do I know and see if everything is aligned correctly/in it's proper place/functioning?

is it dirty at all? make sure nothing is obstructing the trigger , make sure the bolt is clean, make sure nothing is obstructing the firing pin.

Inspect the firing pin, check to see if it looks like part of it has broken off.

>>94
>How much damage can you really do with 0000 steel wool and oil, anyway?
You'd be surprised. I understand that monetary value of the firearm might not be a big deal to you or your family simply because the shotgun has more sentimental value than anything else, but after you strip the original bluing and replace it with cold blue, the value of the firearm just received a swift kick to the mouth.

If you're going to try to restore your Grandpa's shotgun, do it right. Here's typically how I go about refinishing old guns.

To begin, you first need to strip the original bluing off the metal parts chemically so you don't inadvertently over-work certain areas of the metal with abrasives like steel wool or sandpaper; once you blue it, some areas might end up looking shinier or more dull than others. If you've removed the bluing successfully, go ahead and finish the metal however you want, but I recommend using OO-OOOO steel wool. Use long strokes, going from muzzle to breach on barrels, and from breach to where the stock mates on receivers. Just keep everything going in the same direction. For military rifles, consider sand blasting.

From this point on, you will not handle bare metal with un-gloved fingers.

After your material is prepped, you'll need to de-grease your parts. Not like, spray your parts with carb cleaner de-grease. Like, scrubbing everything with a toothbrush and fresh lacquer thinner until the lacquer thinner running off your parts looks like it's unused. These parts need to be *clean*.

Okay, so assuming your metal is all prepped correctly, let's talk about bluing. First thing's first on old guns with value, don't even think about cold bluing the parts. Cold blue is a really thin coating prone to scratching and corrosion. It's fine for little parts like screws and stuff, but it's no good for receivers, barrels, magazines, etc. Search google for "slow rust bluing", this will yield the best, and more importantly the most period-correct results. The process is too long for me to do a good write-up about it here.

So, if your metal is blued, oiled, and you're happy with it, let's move on to the wood. As a rule of thumb here, all wood finishes from Home Depot are garbage, but you can mix up some pretty good stuff with ingredients from Home Depot or Lowes or whatever. First, de-grease your wood like you de-greased the metal parts, you'll be surprised how much crap the wood has soaked up over the past 80 years. Just like with the metal parts, after the wood is de-greased, it is not allowed to touch your skin, so get some clean latex or nitrile gloves on. Now get yourself some 220 grit sand paper, and sand in the direction of t

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>>97

Awesome shit. I'll be starting this weekend. I pray to John Moses Browning I don't fuck it up.

>>102
I'm sure he'll hear your prayers.

>>78
Man, those pictures of AR-7's never do justice for how fucking huge the stocks are.

oh god dat retro franken gun

Erm, stupid question:

Are modern parts compatible with the NDS upper?

I mean, I want the trigger charging handle, but don't care if there's MOE or whatever on the rest of the gun.

>>123
You'd only have to worry about matching the MOE parts to whatever lower and barrel assembly/gas system type you decide to use. But yes, modern small parts fit on the NDS 32 upper, to include new manufacture A1 sight assemblies, bolt carrier groups, and dust cover assemblies. bout all you can put on them.

>>124
Also MOE parts are perfectly compatible with NDS lowers as well, their specs are very similar to A2 lowers, only difference being the amount of material around the buffer tube threads and the mag release fences depending on whatever magwell you decide one.

A better look at the extra holes. Looks like the mag block is held in with a couple of roll pins. One of the holes might intrude on the PBE engraving a bit, but whatever.

You could buy a ProMag mag block that works and not have to do anything to your lower.

>>111
If I go that direction, I'll be using a Hahn dedicated mag block. Thanks, though.