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Patches and Stickers for sale here

File 140055090516.png - (473.28KB , 800x600 , VAL Scaling.png )
2701 No. 2701 ID: e8e85a hide watch quickreply [Reply]
I'm trying to make an AS-VAL prop for a costume, and have done some basic scaling but any additional help would be appreciated.
>> No. 2702 ID: 500b43
>> No. 2736 ID: 169adc
I've got King Arms VSS in the mail now. Not sure if the dimensions from thatll help

File 139795787224.jpg - (823.82KB , 2442x1000 , DSCN2459.jpg )
2645 No. 2645 ID: 15119b hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
It's been about 10 months and a little over 1100 rounds so I figured I would give my thoughts on the Vector.
I wont go over factory stats as that can be looked up and known by anyone who cares. Figured I would give some insight, from the time that I've owned it.

When I first got it, the bolt spring was really stiff and took some effort to rack. It also lead to about five FTE and FTF's through the course of 250 rounds of Wolf 230gr ammo. It wouldnt fully eject the spent case or crush the new one.
I also ran about 300 rounds of PPU 230 gr brass ammo through it without issues.
Right around the 300 round mark everything loosened up and the gun could be charged with two fingers and without bracing it against your body. Also, there have been no malfunctions since.

The trigger is mushy. I have a friend with an mp5, which I thought was already mushy trigger. This thing takes the cake. It breaks at about 8# and has a positive reset and predictable breaking point, but it's just squishy up until it breaks.

The gun has been performing with zero malfunctions and without any cleaning for the past ~800 rounds. I gave it some oil a couple weeks ago before taking it to an IDPA carbine match. I did two carbine matches, two weeks in a row. It chugged along without any fuss. I also now use 200gr hard cast lead reloads 99% of the time and have experienced no loss in accuracy or reliability.

Dont get the wrong idea, it doesnt take away recoil. The best way I can explain the impulse is that it feels like half a rainbow. If you're trying to be really perceptive, you can feel the bolt/buffer pulling the gun down just a bit. You still feel it bouncing straight back into your shoulder, but the muzzle rise is definitely mitigated compared to other platforms.
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>> No. 2675 ID: 15119b
Honestly I dont care/was playing around. That's why I "saged" the post.
People like what they like for various reasons.
I thought your compliment sandwich approach was funny too.

P.S. For realz though, I really dont like Keltec. Everyone I've shot/handled has turned me off in some way. I really wanted to like the Sub2k, but the one I shot... build quality was shoddy and sight was canted and non-adjustable. If you want a red dot, the thing is no longer foldable. The blowback action on the 9mm is rougher than it should be. I'd rather an mp5k on my wrist than a sub2k 9mm on my shoulder. Can only imagine 45. My rifle's accuracy is right there with the sub2k as well with lead plinking ammo.
>> No. 2676 ID: fdf717
Yeah, the Kel-Tec isn't perfect, and it is on the cheap side.

The point is that the argument isn't very different if we swap out Kel-Tec for JR carbine or even a fucking Hi-Point carbine. I think Ruger and Marlin also made pistol caliber carbines that were good, if one can find them used, unless they're still in production and I haven't gotten the memo or something
>> No. 2677 ID: 15119b
>>The point is that the argument isn't very different if we swap out Kel-Tec for JR carbine or even a fucking Hi-Point carbine.

Maybe... but not for my purposes.
My parameters during my search were:
Not an AR conversion with a wonky mag well.
20+ round magazines
Easily suppressed and SBR'd
Easily accept optics and light

So, I spent some months looking and had to eliminate a bunch.
Keltec fit a lot of it but is just cheap and wasnt happy with build quality. Nor can it fold once optics are on.
JRC: Almost an AR conversion. Doesnt fold. In fact I would rather just build an AR conversion for cheaper.
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>> No. 2678 ID: fdf717
At that point a carbine kit for a Glock would be worth it.

>you get a working Glock out of it
>it folds in half
>optics and suppressors mount easy
>big mags are common and cheap

But hey, you like it, that's all that counts. Oh and I guess you have to SBR it in the states? Not sure though.
>> No. 2680 ID: 7451d8

>Oh and I guess you have to SBR it in the states?
Yes, unless the carbine kit comes with an extension to make the barrel 16" long.

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2637 No. 2637 ID: 72ce99 hide watch quickreply [Reply]
There was a thread around somewhere about questions that don't deserve their own thread. Can't find it though.

Why won't my regular old SKS magazine fit into my TAPCO stock? I bought this from my friend, and I have no idea if the stock only fits duckbill mags now. Is this the case?

Probably not, so why won't my mags stay in place?

INB4 w/e the fuck you have to say about my fudd
>> No. 2638 ID: f10410
I just texted a friend who owns an SKS and he said with his Tapco stock that he can't put in the original mag that it came with, just duckbills. His is a Yugo.
>> No. 2663 ID: ee1c7f
Because Tapco wants you to buy their mags.

File 139345051692.jpg - (10.93KB , 400x400 , channel liner tool.jpg )
2588 No. 2588 ID: c3ca0b hide watch quickreply [Reply]
I've been Glocking for years, and have felt confident about everything about them until the channel liner removal and install. Cerakoting slide. I've had to brake down and buy one of the tools. Brownells bills the Rimfire Gunworks tool as the one Glock uses so went with it over the Lonewolf (install only) and Jentra. Will post review.
>> No. 2596 ID: c3e6b2
  I had to look up WTF is channel liner, this video explain everything it looks pretty easy to remove and install.
>> No. 2598 ID: c3ca0b
The tool is the way to go. I went through 3 channel liners--2 before I got the tool. The liners are really in there good and are fun to press in without proper tools. I wish I had looked up that video before. The one end is the bolt (like in the video>>2596) and it easily threads into and catches the liner. The polymer washer keeps it from marring the slide. You tighten the wing nut a few turns until the liner starts out and pull it all out. The other end is the aligning punch. Bevel end in first and it lines up and punches right in with little required effort, without crack or split.

For the long run I kind of think it would be better as two tools, like double sided ar15 roll pin starters because even with a gunsmith leather/brass/poly hammer you still are hammering on a useful, important end. I am happy with it.

Rimfire Gunworks Channel Liner Tool for Glock
>> No. 2661 ID: f4afb2
wow, glad i found this thread. i probably wouldn't have noticed this little part until i cooked it. it'll take me five minutes to turn a little install tool on the lathe.

another trick for anyone with a lathe (or a drill press, file, and deep self-hatred); a 1/4" socket head cap screw fits the stupid glock front sight bolt. just machine the head down until it fits in the slide. i've seen people modify cheap nut drivers for normal slides, but long slides require a special tool.

File 139779370260.jpg - (94.51KB , 1017x763 , raifu.jpg )
2640 No. 2640 ID: 80afa2 hide watch quickreply [Reply]
Picked this 2007 one off CGN EE with a USGI stock.

Is there any fake fire selector switches available in Canada to plug this hole up and is there anything I can do to close this gap between the stock and the hand guard. I'm hoping this problem will fix itself once I get shims and the barrel properly indexed.
>> No. 2641 ID: 80afa2
File 139779379241.jpg - (549.94KB , 1632x1224 , raifu 2.jpg )
Close up of the gap. The clip on the rear of the plastic hand guard is in the groove of the barrel and the rest of the rifle fits into the stock pretty evenly.

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2561 No. 2561 ID: 46b9d2 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
Well, my Romy furniture for the AK will be here shortly (Whenever the big brown truck finally shows the fuck up), and I'm looking to refinish it, since it'll probably be pretty gross.

Now, this here pictured stock was done with clear shellac & some iodine to give it that amber color, which is about what I want.

But I don't want to use shellac, because it's really too cold right now for that, and it'd take for-fucking-ever. Plus the shitty water resistance. Even mixed 75/25 shellac/mineral oil and ragging it on would probably take me like 15 coats to get it where I wanted it.

So what would you guys suggest as an alternative finish? It'll have to be clear, since the iodine is going to be mixed in it, and fairly rugged, since this isn't going to be a safe-queen AK, either.
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>> No. 2582 ID: 46b9d2
File 139283440172.jpg - (178.73KB , 1024x576 , DSCF0360.jpg )
And the other side.
>> No. 2583 ID: c3e6b2
If is stocked finish you don't really need the stripper giggidy you can just use a brillo pad (for the finish) and hot water (for cosmoline). Give that a go before sending in the stripper.

Put a little bit of wax/oil on it and it will look fucking awesome, see >>2564 pistol grip.
>> No. 2585 ID: 46b9d2
Any particular oil you suggest?
>> No. 2586 ID: c3e6b2
I just rubbed the gun oil over it then wipe the extra off, it need very little. The oil on your palm will later be the oil it needs.
>> No. 2631 ID: 329f54
I mix 50:50 teak oil and stain when I'm refinishing AK furniture. Which stain I use always depends on the set I'm refinishing. Five or six coats does the trick.

File 139632453018.jpg - (3.82MB , 3648x2736 , IMGP1780.jpg )
2624 No. 2624 ID: fa8400 hide watch quickreply [Reply]
Just a little teaser...

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2445 No. 2445 ID: d5e5a4 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply] [Last 50 posts]
Field stripping a Model 1928 Thompson SMG.
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>> No. 2500 ID: 9ae271
Awesome pictures. I now know more about the Thompson's greasy bits than I thought I wanted to know (this is a good thing).

One note on your descriptions: the gold thingy is a Blish Lock. Wikipedia describes in better detail, but it roughly worked to delay the opening of the bolt slightly due to static friction between the bronze block and steel of the receiver. It's functional benefits in the Thompson were dubious (the WW2 era models dispensed with it completely to no ill effect), but it's a clever idea.

>> No. 2501 ID: bf615d

Good to know, thanks!
>> No. 2538 ID: 8f8ee7
Jesus christ Thompsons are way more complicated than I thought. I'll stick with my simple slavshit SMGs.
>> No. 2587 ID: 527497
I guess you could say it's low-speed high-drag :D
>> No. 2599 ID: cb4bfc
Keep in mind there were big changes between this model and the M1's that were adopted for military use.

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2558 No. 2558 ID: f1385d hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
If I purchase a barrel such as pic related with a pinned gas block already installed how do I go about getting a barrel nut on there? it doesn't look like it would work going from the the muzzle without removing the gas block and if I'm understanding how ARs work, it can't go from the chamber.
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>> No. 2560 ID: f1385d
I'd imagine it'd be easier to unpin the gas block as come to think of it I don't think they're welded like when you pin a muzzle device.
>> No. 2562 ID: 06ae7b
File 139251752156.jpg - (16.99KB , 600x402 , upper-parts-spikes-micro-gas-block-750__34426_zoom.jpg )
I think Spike Tactical uses set screws so you can just take the gas block off for the barrel nut
>> No. 2572 ID: f1385d

They claim it is both set screwed and pinned. I think that you're right about having to remove the gas block though. It honestly shouldn't be too hard provided they didn't weld the pin in there.
>> No. 2576 ID: 3dc364
File 13927620216.jpg - (63.16KB , 512x356 , hover cat.jpg )
>provided they didn't weld the pin in there.

If they welded the pin in there, they need to have their hands cut off and be fucking fired.
>> No. 2577 ID: 06ae7b
Looking at all the parts comes with the purchase I am guessing it's a pin for the gas tube and two set screws.

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152 No. 152 ID: 3e4848 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply] [Last 50 posts]
So after a few trips to the range I decided to make some improvements to my nugget. Mind you I have not taken it to the range since the modifications but I will post a range report ASAP
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>> No. 1939 ID: 39d4a6
File 137246303792.jpg - (1.50MB , 3264x1836 , 20130628_193049[1].jpg )
Now before anyone says anything, I haven't cleaned my barrel since I took it to the range. I only used non-corrosive ammo so I wasn't worried about immediately cleaning it.
>> No. 1940 ID: 39d4a6
File 137246309614.jpg - (1.08MB , 3264x1836 , 20130628_193121[1].jpg )
Upon inspecting the muzzle, it just looks like ass.
>> No. 1941 ID: 39d4a6
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>> No. 2436 ID: 40e2a0
cant save the rifling but a crown job would help that rifle out a lot
>> No. 2444 ID: f10410
Oh yea man. A friend of mine is in gunsmithing school in PA and in the spring he needs a rifle that needs barrel work so I'll drop it off at his apartment before then and he'll work on it. I'll probably give him a bottle of Jameson as payment since he's doing it for school.

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