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Patches and Stickers for sale here

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2423 No. 2423 ID: 58a76a hide watch quickreply [Reply]
Hey guys,
I picked up a Zastava AK a bit ago.
Upon trying to take it apart, I found that the button to remove the dustcover does not come anywhere close to depressing all the way.
I have a Zastava M76, which is similar in design, and never experienced this problem.

It is stuck as fuck.
Anyone know what do?

Also, best way to go about loosening up the safety lever once I get it open? It takes quite a bit of effort to switch to fire.

>> No. 2424 ID: 22504e
Just to clarify, there should be two things you press to remove the dust cover. One is a button on the left or right side, then you have to push down the recoil spring "button" as usual for AK's. Which one are you talking about?
>> No. 2425 ID: 58a76a
Huh, I feel a little retarded now.
My bad, the 76 doesn't have that button and I assumed they'd work the same.
Thanks, comrade.
>> No. 2426 ID: 22504e
Well, if I recall correctly. The side push button thing is to keep the cover from popping off during nade launching. M76's don't do that, for the obvious reasons, so they don't need it.
>> No. 2439 ID: d6e397
Pull the safety lever outward and back until it's at your desired tension, it won't hurt anything.

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2429 No. 2429 ID: 251b7d hide watch quickreply [Reply]
first i am a gunsmith and i was just doing this for the fun of it

ok i was looking into the idea of trying my hand at fixing the problems with the l86, so i was going to try and find one to buy to work on.
>no one imported the l86 into the us in large numbers, so trying to find one is a little hard (rare as hens teeth)
so i tried looking for a build kit
>no luck
now im looking for some blueprints or plans, or even good pics of the internal workings of the gun

i was going to build myself one that was semi-auto and made to be a marksman rifle, also try to see if i can fix some of the problems with it
now im just looking for resources of technical specs on some of the less popular weapons (fg42 comes to mind as well)
can someone help
>> No. 2430 ID: df464e
1) Get an AR18.
2) Put on a pot of Earl Grey.
3) Drink the Earl Grey and feel British.
4) Make the AR18 a bullpup.
5) Spend a bunch of money and time making it right.
6) ? ? ? ?
7) Enjoy your new L86. You will be the envy of all your friends.
>> No. 2432 ID: 251b7d
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AR18 is on the wish list as well
and i already know of a simple way to bullpup it
>doing this for the fun of it
you know, for the challenge
sometimes you do stuff just to see if you can do it
>> No. 2442 ID: a468a6
Didn't HK already iron out all the kinks in the early 90s or something? I wasn't aware there were still problems.

Sage for lack of contribution.

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2258 No. 2258 ID: c3e6b2 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
I want to make a steampunk pistol for halloween, bought this Namco NPC-106 light gun at Goodwill. Took it apart made made place holder for hammer but can't figure out how to make it work with the trigger.

All I need is able to cock the hammer back and lock it back, pull the trigger and release the hammer. Simple moving parts. Planning on making the hammer out of acrylic piece I have laying around.

If someone can just Photoshop/MS Paint the picture with a simple design I'll make another one out of the cardboard. for testing.
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>> No. 2265 ID: 5adb5b
I started to make a post about a simple single action mechanism, then I said "wait I'll just draw something over his picture", then I said "well crap that's going to be impossible to turn into a mechanism without adding material to the trigger", so uh yeah, good luck with that.
If you added a separate sear that the springy bit, that I guess used to click a button, pushed to release the hammer you could probably pull it off.
*sigh* I'll draw it up.
>> No. 2266 ID: 5adb5b
File 137965627085.jpg - (1.04MB , 2592x1944 , mammothgun.jpg )
Note that the green transfer bar has to go past the blue hammer and the red sear pin is the part that actually holds the hammer back.
Transfer bar will need a separate spring holding it down.
Drawing is crude and should be used for reference purposes only.
>> No. 2267 ID: 5adb5b
Ok, two points:
Left side of red sear pin should be about in line with axis of rotation of the hammer.
The spiky thing coming off the hammer should actually be vertical when the hammer is cocked, not when it's down, also it should probably be just a part of the hammer, not a spike, but you get the idea.
>> No. 2401 ID: 46cf70
Well shit Mammoth. Next time email me and I could have 3d printed you a functioning hammer.
>> No. 2402 ID: 44b264
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Thank you for the offering, my wife just made a gauge and put it in the back instead. It became too much work to trying to get a working trigger and hammer and she wanted to have some kind of gauge on it so it would be more Steampunk.

Here is what the light gun turned into.

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2305 No. 2305 ID: e197a2 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
School project time

Objective: Build 3 bolt action rifles.

1) Mauser 98 action

2) Two Remington 700 actions

a) 1 700, 1 Winchester 70 action

I have to rechamber them and build custom stocks. My questions relate to what to build. I want to make a scout rifle for one. For the scout rifle I would ideally like to have these credentials: Removable magazine, common caliber, lightweight stock. I have never really messed around with bolt gun and I have no idea on what to choose for any of these.

A couple other requirements are for me to use a solid wood stock on the mauser, a composite stock and a 2-piece stock on the other rifles. I think I narrowed it down to calibers and so far I have .308, 6.5 creedmoor, and either .223/5.56 or .22-250. I have no idea what type of barrels I need to order for any of these calibers, let alone what caliber to use on which rifle.

Based on this info, what do you guys reccomend? I have never shot the creedmoor or the .22-250 or even a .308 out of a bolt gun.
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>> No. 2389 ID: eeb844
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Speer 12th
>> No. 2390 ID: eeb844
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Lyman 49th
>> No. 2391 ID: eeb844
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Lyman 49th
>> No. 2392 ID: eeb844
That's all folks.

Here's Hodgdon's, btw.

>> No. 2394 ID: e197a2
thank you sir, i very much appreciate it :D

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1904 No. 1904 ID: c7a832 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply] [Last 50 posts]
The kit he ordered from AK-Builder is beautiful - it has 99.5% of the finish on it still, I believe it was an un-issued kit or never fired then de-mil kit.

It came with barrel assembly already done (which made the build a hell of lot easier, don't need to head space or worrying about lining up the sight, gas block.
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>> No. 2230 ID: 1956a2
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Look at this custom support jig I made. The drilled in area is where the rivet head rest.
>> No. 2231 ID: 1956a2
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Move the nut outward to create support then the rivet is crushed. I'll take some nice photos later before I send it out to you AirCav
>> No. 2353 ID: 1341b4
So, whatcha do to align that optic plate? The internet is strangely silent on this subject.
>> No. 2354 ID: ae14b1
Back of the caliper like this video
>> No. 2358 ID: 1341b4

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868 No. 868 ID: 601156 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply] [First 100 posts] [Last 50 posts]
Rather than bump South Dakotan's thread about a stamped receiver, figured I'd start a new one about my upcoming build.

Still need a few more parts and all, but figured I'd post pics and info as it comes along in case anyone's interested since a Galil build is a little different than an AK one.

Got most of the parts in, still missing the following:

- Milled receiver
- Stock
- Selector (the guy who sent me the kit thinks he has a spare one he can send me for free though, so waiting on that)
- Trigger (Going to use a Tapco G2 group for 922r)
- Random little block for the receiver that the pistol grip screws into.

Talked to Lei, and he's going to give me a hand building it, but I still need a little more time to get funds for the rest of the parts/find them.

In the meantime, anyone have any info or tips on building one of these? Thanks!
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>> No. 2011 ID: e28a05
That's a Hesse/Vulcan operation. Stay away.
>> No. 2012 ID: 601156

Yeah I avoid Blackthorne, link was just for an example of the adapter.
>> No. 2290 ID: 4e02d2
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Completely out of the blue, found a mostly complete ARM parts kit at a gunshow this weekend.

Going to take me a few weeks to get the missing parts, and we don't have access to a mill or lathe until we've moved our shop into a new location (hopefully by end of November), but this will definitely be the next project.

Going to do it a little differently this time though since we learned a lot from the last one, also going to spend the $$$ on a CNC Warrior receiver, talked to them yesterday and apparently they're doing another run of receivers soon.
>> No. 2291 ID: 1341b4
Be prepared to buy a new barrel too. Unless we get extremely lucky and it times on correctly in the 5-ish degrees we get to play with within the proper torque range.

But I'd wait for the receiver to see how lucky we are before plopping down the $90 or whatever it was.
>> No. 2293 ID: 4e02d2

Yeah, it would be nice if the IMI barrel would work but realistically I know we'll need a new one, but I'll hold off on getting one until I get the new receiver. CNC Warrior didn't give me an exact date, they just said "soon" so I'll take that as early next year.

I'm going to spend my time now just sourcing the missing parts, and working on the AK74 kit.

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2212 No. 2212 ID: 1956a2 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
Any idea how this could happen.
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>> No. 2215 ID: 39d4a6
I've always read that there is no advantage with that ring versus any normal 3 ring set up. How many rounds through your rifle when this happened?
>> No. 2216 ID: 1956a2
about 3 mags worth just today but life of the bolt is about 2k rounds at this point.
>> No. 2217 ID: 9e78b5
I bet the inside of the carrier is fucked.
>> No. 2218 ID: 1956a2
I took a look inside the BCG it's fine I think the gas ring is softer than the BCG and it bent pretty flat so didn't do any damage to inside of the BCG
>> No. 2225 ID: ee387c
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Could be as simple as that was the few bad gas rings out of the millions made and just needs replaced?

the other things that Ive heard cause that are small burrs from the machining leftover in the area where the bolt carrier gets tighter so that it forms a seal with those rings

also could have been a hot round too, just hot enough to do that, but not hot enough to acutally KB the rifle

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2203 No. 2203 ID: aaff85 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
So theres'a local auction coming up and they have a 1919A4 parts kit. I think I might try to buy it. The thing is that I don't really know what I might be getting myself into.

I know it will most likley be extreamly difficult. Although I'm planning on going to the Colorado School of trades next year for gunsmithing. So I could hold off until then and do it.

Anyway I'll post the rest of the pictured the auctioneers website has.
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>> No. 2207 ID: aaff85
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>> No. 2208 ID: aaff85
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>> No. 2209 ID: aaff85
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>> No. 2210 ID: aaff85
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>> No. 2211 ID: c3e6b2
Get in touch with Boof he was selling one and he says he can make you a semi auto side plate for the receiver or help you make one it's apparently really easy.

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2108 No. 2108 ID: 861761 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
recently got 3x parts kits

Romanian MD-63

What do I do?

the two ak receivers are not heat treated, and some of the rivets are not usable... so I am gonna have to scrap the receivers.

as far as I know I have all the internal parts.
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>> No. 2110 ID: f6e1e8
The Romy kit looks like came with a US made barrel, it shouldn't be too hard to take it apart and mate the kit with a new receiver. Can you get a close up of the front trunnion of the Romy kit? Those rivets looks weird, also with the burn mark could they be welded or try to weld them in place?
>> No. 2115 ID: ff51af
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>wat do
All of the this. Every bit of it.

>> No. 2197 ID: 7aa24d
uuuuunnnh, even a heavily disassembled ppsh43 is so damn sexy
>> No. 2199 ID: a468a6
I just finished like, my 15th AK build or something. Come up with some more specific questions and I'll answer them as best I can.
>> No. 2200 ID: c3e6b2
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Fuck it I am going to ax a question, A2H what would you suggest to crushing the rivet for the side rail? I don't have the AK riveting jig like in pic. So what do you suggest? The bolt cutter jig is too wide for inside the receiver.

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2166 No. 2166 ID: 338a69 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
Finally got around to detail stripping my Marlin 17-G shotgun.

Was too lazy to take apart the bolt, though.

If anyone is interested, I can do a step by step process take it a part, but for now, here it is.
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