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PBE Felix and Deagle Boltface Patches On Sale Now!



File 13696109682.jpg - (1.22MB , 2048x1536 , 136910040524.jpg )
1813 No. 1813 ID: a8afb0 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply] [Last 50 posts]
Building a 1911 is nowhere near as difficult as people may think. All you need is a basic understanding of how they work, some tools and a lot of patience. Competition builds DO require some very precise skills and machines, but a basic "go out and shoot it" build can be done by anyone.

I've spent the past week making a basic guide on how to do this from start to finish. I tried to make it as easy to follow as I could, but it's not perfect. I'll answer any questions that may rise as I go.

Also, this particular build is for competitions. I will go over how to use specialty tools but don't think you NEED to use them on your build. They're only for explaining how to do shit.
51 posts and 40 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 1877 ID: a8afb0
>>1875
Ramped barrel?

Also, measure the front of the slide where the bushing inserts if you have a micrometer. Tell me what it reads.
>> No. 1878 ID: f8ece4
>>1877
It's an unramped barrel.

How much would reblueing cost? Mine turns purple in the sunlight.
>> No. 1879 ID: a8afb0
>>1878
$150 for re-bluing, but I'm way backed up. It will take a few months.

I could probably duracoat it for cheaper/sooner.
>> No. 1880 ID: 37f0d7
>>1879
Oh, this will happen no time soon. Just wondering on cost.
>> No. 1881 ID: 37f0d7
What I really want to do with it, is re-barrel/bush it, machine it for Novak sights, and get it either reblued or duracoated.

But that's money, and no one is buying my body anytime soon.


File 136952517150.png - (19.05KB , 1142x872 , lasergun_assembled.png )
1800 No. 1800 ID: 1abca0 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
So here is an assembled svg version of the file used to cut the gun out of plywood.
Could also be made from acrylic.
I'll try posting the svg file next, if that doesn't work I'll put it in /z/
7 posts and 1 image omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 1811 ID: 5adb5b
>>1809
Derp, battery in my camera needs charging.
I'll get to it today though.
>> No. 1858 ID: 5adb5b
File 136980166480.png - (4.13MB , 1432x1151 , laserguns.png )
1858
Took these the other day, just getting around to uploading them.

Sadly the video was too dark, I'll have to do another one with better lighting.
>> No. 1859 ID: 5adb5b
File 136980184112.png - (2.34MB , 1088x871 , laserguts1.png )
1859
This shows how the mechanism work, basically the same in version 2, but I don't want to take the pins out of version 2 right now.
>> No. 1860 ID: 5adb5b
File 136980187299.png - (2.81MB , 1208x947 , laserguts2.png )
1860
>> No. 1861 ID: 5adb5b
At some point in the future I'll do a version 3 where the striker only sits in front of the spring instead of around the spring, it'll have to run on side rails and have the sear in front of the striker, but it will basically be the same.
Actually that would be the best way to make a 3D printed one I guess, then you only need the trigger pin to keep everything together.
The whole gun could be done in 4 prints, barrel, frame, striker, and trigger, you would need 3 metal parts, trigger pin, firing pin, and spring.


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1680 No. 1680 ID: 0a8e0e hide watch expand quickreply [Reply] [Last 50 posts]
We felt a bit of an itch to do some science involving fiber glass.
Mammoth and I invested in some fiberglass composite ballistic panels(probably the cheapest on the market) and were curious about what they could''really'' stop. They were labeled 3a and were advertised as being able to stop a .44 magnum. That's fun and great an all but I wanted to do something a bit more interesting.

I had a level 3a kevlar soft insert on hand that I would include in this test.

Pic related.
65 posts and 56 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 1748 ID: 0a8e0e
What knowledge can we take away from these tests?
1) Level 3A plates will stop 12ga
2) Level 3A composite plates are definitely multi-hit when put up against 3A threats
3) Level 3A plates DO NOT stop 5.56, even if doubled up.
4) Level 3A plates will NOT protect you against 7.62x39 at typical combat distances.
5) Level 3A plates combined with Level 3A kevlar WILL stop 7.62x39.

Keep in mind these are probably the cheapest plates on the market along with low budget out of spec kevlar. One can safely assume that if true ballistic kevlar is used in conjunction with a high end 3A rated hard plate one could survive a close range shot from an AK47 or SKS. What is the perk to this combination? Weight reduction. There is a company that sells 3A plates that weigh 14oz each. The less your plates weigh, the more ammo you can carry on you. Question is...How bulletproof are bullets?

To be continued....
>> No. 1749 ID: 093d8a
>>1748
>Question is...How bulletproof are bullets?

... ah, shit.
>> No. 1750 ID: b16bb2
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1750
Not very Box O Truth did a test

http://www.theboxotruth.com/docs/bot9.htm
>> No. 1756 ID: 39d4a6
>5) Level 3A plates combined with Level 3A kevlar WILL stop 7.62x39

Good to know thanks for the test results.
>> No. 1783 ID: 697a8d
>>1756

That's pretty interesting. I'm curious what surplus 5.45 wod do to one of those compound plates.


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1675 No. 1675 ID: 7ed57c hide watch quickreply [Reply]
Today I purchased an old single shot Armory Guns 12 gauge for a song. The hammer clearly had a broken spring but it was otherwise in operating/ok condition.

If I can replace it, this is a gun I'd spend a little bit of time on and restore. From my research, it's originally a cheap hardware store shotgun with no sentimental value, so removing the rust, patina and re-bluing it won't be a sin.

Without much fuss I've disassembled it and identified the broken leaf spring.
>> No. 1676 ID: 7ed57c
File 136839151626.jpg - (2.76MB , 3264x2448 , Broken Spring.jpg )
1676
Here is a closeup of the broken leaf spring for the hammer. You can see the break at about the 2.25" mark.

Using my caliper, it's 90mm in length, 9mm wide and approximately 6mm of lift.

I found this post about fabricating a hammer spring.
http://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/showthread.php?15670-making-gun-springs

I'm open to doing the work, but what sort of metal should I source for this? Can I use common hardware store stock and temper it, or is there something else I should use? Should I try and find a similar spring online and cut it to fit?
>> No. 1753 ID: 9d1df4
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1753
For future reference, this is a nice article about spring making:
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=12601/GunTechdetail/Springmaking-Without-Tears

I'll probably pick up some 1075 from McMaster Carr or Brownells tonight unless I hear otherwise.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-spring-steel-sheets/=mr30y0

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/small-hardware/bulk-spring-kits/extra-wide-spring-steel-prod390.aspx#producttabSpecs
>> No. 1754 ID: 0a488a
>>1676
don't use hardware store stock

order some quality O-1 metal from a supplier like onlinemetals.com if you can find a sheet the right thickness, you only have to cut the shape. If all you can get is bar stock you could cut a segment to the right thickness, then file/stone it to dimension.

probably much easier to find someone that deals in old guns and just buy a new spring though, but hell making things is fun.
>> No. 1755 ID: 0a488a
derp didn't see your links to materials
those should work just fine.


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1555 No. 1555 ID: 123e61 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
That's a nice block of 4150 you got there...
32 posts and 20 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 1677 ID: 0a488a
>>1665
did the through pin need to be milled? Would a riveted in pin been prone to failure?
I see all that stock go to waste and I cringe a little, but if the stresses demand the strongest possible joint I guess it can't be helped.

>>1663
speaking of forging. If i had a rough and ready blacksmith setup, would it be possible to make a roughly 'L' shaped blank to machine? Would it still take a heat treatment well or would the smithing process to shape it change the nature of the metal in an unfavorable way?
>> No. 1678 ID: f17633
>>1677
If you heated up and pounded your bar stock into shape, you could then give it another heat treatment to relieve the stresses. Not one to harden it, although some metals machine well even when hardened a little.

After you're done machining, you can give it a final heat treat and touch up your crits with some post-hardening machining, as it could distort during the heat treat.

We subcontract all our heat treatment jobs so I don't know all that much about it. Other, more knowledgeable operators, might be able to tell you how to do some heat treats for normalization, stress relief, hardening, tempering, etc.
>> No. 1679 ID: 498dc0
The nice thing about metals is that you can basically hit the reset button on their atomic structure. Take it above the critical temperature and let it drop at a controlled rate and it'll be like it was never heat treated.

So you can machine/forge it any way you want, and then treat it however you'd like to get whatever properties you want. One of the tricks in forging/machining is to start with an alloy with certain additives that make it easier to work. Then when you're done working it, heat treat it to precipitate the additives out, and you have a stronger part.
>> No. 1751 ID: 0a488a
>>1679
interesting
my knowledge of machining is pretty solid, but metallurgy is kinda spotty. The most I get into is hardening by color, then heat treating to blue all over an open flame. Needless to say shit goes awry as often as not, but I'm mostly just making special drill bits or reamers that can be remade pretty easy.
>> No. 1752 ID: d25220
There's plenty of documentation online on heat treating methods and how to get the properties you want.

Basically it all revolves around;

Temperature
Time
Cooling Method

Cooling Method is basically Furnace Cooled - Air Cooled - Quenched, and Quench can have different impacts depending on how the part is handled and what the fluid is you're using to quench (mostly controls the depth of the Martensite/Austenite shell, but can have a bit of an impact on the surface chemistry as well).


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1615 No. 1615 ID: 123e61 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
Any woodworkers here?

I don't really know much about the subject myself. I mostly just cut metal (using karate chops) but I've messed around carving a few things in the past.

Anyway, I'd like to make myself a stock set for a Vepr. Anything I should know before I inevitably waste my time and money?

I kind of figure that you need seasoned wood so it doesn't warp. I've also thought a bit about laminated wood. Each layer would take less time to dry out completely and all right?

I don't have a lot of REAL wood working tools. Just chisels, saws, drills, a rasp and plane. Anything I would seriously regret not having? I also have access to a machine shop and while perhaps slightly overkill, I can mill shit out all day long there. CNC even if I wanted to.
15 posts and 7 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 1645 ID: 41a524
>>1642

This operator speaks truth, you need the 3-vent-hole style handgaurds for an M70. They're approx an inch longer than normal ones.
>> No. 1646 ID: 41a524
>>1645

And sorry for double post, but if someone is seriously going to start making those for an M70 I will ship them hand guards to work off of, I have several extra sets.
>> No. 1647 ID: c3e6b2
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1647
>>1642
>>1645
>>1646
Damn, I had to look at the AK-74 and WASR and I see what you mean by the 3 vent holes.

AirCav, I'll try to find some wood and work one for myself and see how much trouble it is, if not too bad I'll get in touch with you so I can make some for M70
>> No. 1655 ID: c3e6b2
File 136761237378.jpg - (0.99MB , 2037x972 , woody.jpg )
1655
Went wood shopping and came back with this. I got it wide enough for M70 handgaurd also but I'll make it for the AKM first. The wood was $25 it is covered in wax that's why it looks extra dark but it has a nice dark and light brown pattern/grain to it.

Got it from here, it's pretty cool they just let you walk around in their warehouse and pick up the stuff you want. I was going to get some Mahogany, I put it back when he told me the price... $65.

http://www.peachstatelumber.com/
>> No. 1747 ID: 7e61e5
What do you have for tools?


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3685 No. 3685 ID: 06b993 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
I encourage you to first read through my first reloading thread here: http://www.operatorchan.org/clw/res/42.html

Getting started does not have to be either expensive or hard. But first, you must decide which direction you want to go with things, concerning caliber(s) and volume. If you dry fire your handgun 100 times a day but only get the chance to shoot every couple of months, your needs will be different from a guy shooting steel every weekend, or the monthly 3-gun competitor.

There are several big name brands in reloading gear, and just like with anything, on some you pay for the name.
From Cheapest Crap to Unnecessarily Expensive

SmartReloader: Chinese copies of Lee designs. Extremely poor track record as far as quality is concerned. Presses rarely aligned correctly; electronics die prematurely.

Lee Precision: Everything made in USA. Cheapest of the manufacturers with acceptable quality. Excellent warranties. Everything they make works, but some items need tweaking, fiddlin' or fine tuning. Offers literally everything you need. Best value for your dollar in my opinion.

Lyman: The former leader in reloading supplies, until poor customer service allowed RCBS to gain a foothold. Well made items which are beefier than Lee but much more expensive. Stay in business by selling roughly the same thing as RCBS for 10% less.

Redding: The definition of "average" in all things but price. Haven't really caught onto this whole "internet" thingy the kids are messing with. I had a poor personal customer service issue with them, for the record.

Message too long. Click here to view the full text.
22 posts and 10 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 3708 ID: 7d6970
Dander, I'm looking to get into reloading since this scare is going on, and I had a question as to acceptability of reloading presses for an absolute beginner.

As I'd like to be able to pound through a few dozen rounds in a few hours, or a few hundred in an afternoon, I'd like to get a turret press. Because ammo beyond 20 and 12 gauge shotgun is damn near impossible to find near me right now.

However, having NEVER reloaded before at any speed or any caliber, would you recommend I just start at bare basics and get a single stage press? Or could I, being very careful and focusing on check-double check-triple check, get a turret press for the increased rounds per hour capability?

I'm moving into an apartment with my soon-to-be wife soon and would like a decent supply of defensive ammunition for a home defense handgun, and reloading is the only real for sure method of supply.
>> No. 3709 ID: 9fc121
>>233

>just get a progressive from the start

I still discourage this. You're talking about going into this green and balancing exponentially more variables to get a progressive running well, and if you're doing multiple calibers you'll spend more time converting a progressive back-and-forth than it takes to finish the average reloading session on a turret.

>>226
>who do you think has the best primer feeding system?

There's not really a best or a worst, just some, like the Dillon tube, are more dangerous. Loadmasters are known to set off primers too, though going slow and steady, and stopping at unexpected resistance prevents accidents like these.

>>235

If all you're doing is handgun, I'd say step right up to a turret. Remember that with a single stage the case is inserted and removed multiple time, and it's a hell of a lot easier to do with rifle cases than pistol cases. You're also less likely to get an accidental double-charge with a turret for the simple fact that the case goes in dirty and only comes out once fully loaded ready to fire. If you load on a single stage, or charge with powder off-press, make a habit of turning the case over before charging. Spilling some powder on the table is preferable to a double-charge.
>> No. 3710 ID: 369cb3
Earlier in a different thread discussing a potential halt on imported ammunition, you provided some links to sites that still had dies and other supplies in stock. Would you mind providing them again here?
>> No. 3711 ID: 9fc121
>>244
I'm about to leave for work but will do this evening.
>> No. 3712 ID: 9fc121
>>244

Pro-Tier: I have done business with and fully endorse these guys.

http://www.grafs.com/
Large selection of everything reloading, with most everything out of stock right now.

http://www.titanreloading.com/
Sells only Lee branded reloading tools, ran by a guy who picks up inventory by driving to the factory.

https://fsreloading.com/
Same as above, but slightly higher prices.

http://store.thirdgenerationshootingsupply.com/
One of the last outfits to have smokeless available when I bought 10 lbs a couple of weeks ago. Mostly components.
Message too long. Click here to view the full text.


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1626 No. 1626 ID: 84574c hide watch quickreply [Reply]
So I found a bag of parts for a pietta 1851 in .44. I went through everything and the only parts I'm missing are the barrel wedge and barrel. My googlefu is not strong enough for me to find a replacement. Could someone point me in a good direction, brownells and midway have nothing.
>> No. 1633 ID: 3dbdf0
Try Dixie Gun Works. Give them a call up and see if they have anything.


No. 1487 ID: c77c43 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
  I loved my Ruger MK3 and then I tried to take it apart to clean it. It will be fun, they said. Just reassemble in the reverse order of disassembly they said.

Anyway, this video finally helped me figure out what the fuck i was doing wrong. Fuck ruger with a thousand cocks for making the gun so impossible to reassemble without knowing how to do magic tricks.
1 post omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 1498 ID: f17633
>>1488
I detailed it once. Lost two pins in the process.

" Finally got the two detent pin things from Ruger and put it all back together.

Flying thundercunt fagballs, I practically had sex with it to get everything in the lower back together without the pins or various bits falling back out. They may make a good little semi-auto, but it took tweezers, all of my fingers (all of them, all at the same time), my crotch and my tongue to get one of the pins in (the one that holds the safety, it's little detent pin that likes to go flying off, the hammer and sear (sear has to be on load), the trigger connector and one of the spring things).

I had my pinky through the frame slot at the back to hold the safety, other pinky at the front of the frame to hold in the trigger bar so its spring and pin didn't fly out, rest of one hand to manipulate the tweezers and the other hand to get the bits in the right place, my tongue to push the pin through the whole mess and it was all balanced on my crotch. I think all the other guns are going to be jealous for a while.

I'm done for a while on detailing shit that probably shouldn't be detailed by my incompetent hands. Mineral spirits and air compressor from now on..."
>> No. 1525 ID: 043a6b
>>1498
i request pics or an ms paint drawing...also OMFG my sides hit hyperspeed
>> No. 1526 ID: f17633
>>1525
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UFh-8Isu1uw
>> No. 1630 ID: 4ee64a
Dunno if If this is normal but I had a bitch of the time putting the bolt back in my Mini 14
>> No. 1757 ID: ffba8d
This thread is why I don't fuck around with Rugers.

The P89 fucked my hand up a few times.
Ruger can go eat a bag of cock.


File 136618361964.jpg - (282.74KB , 2048x1536 , IMG00199-20130416-1725.jpg )
1545 No. 1545 ID: f17633 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
Ensuring your scope is level with the mount using gage blocks isn't normal.

(0.4698")
9 posts and 1 image omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 1587 ID: 5c7b98
That, that is engineering in a nutshell, and why we should always work in groups. Spend so much energy on the small-scale stuff, the bigger picture sometimes escapes us.
>> No. 1588 ID: f17633
>>1587
I blame that mistake on not having the gun at work. Not because I wouldn't bring a rifle to the shop, but because I haven't actually gotten my Tavor in yet.
>> No. 1589 ID: f17633
>>1588
>>1587
I also blame that mistake on being a moron.
>> No. 1590 ID: 5c7b98
hehehe, but you make up for it by getting a motherfucking Tavor. Nice buy if I do say so myself.
>> No. 1591 ID: f17633
File 13664256228.jpg - (251.19KB , 1942x628 , IMG00207-20130419-2236.jpg )
1591
There we go, should be good now.


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