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Patches and Stickers for sale here

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1492 No. 1492 ID: 136bf7 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
416 thread?
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>> No. 1515 ID: 540b32
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Good ol`boy
>> No. 1516 ID: 540b32
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Realy Realy super fun to shoot!
>> No. 1518 ID: 540b32
I agree with Balci, but we try to mend mistakes.

And apparently my camera shrinks pictures.....
>> No. 1523 ID: 999113

Ohh, right. I remember about the shit ammo.

Thanks for posting, bro.

Keep the gun porn comin'.
>> No. 1528 ID: 80eaa5
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1195 No. 1195 ID: a483ea hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
We had a local gun buyback here in the Metro Atlanta area this past weekend, so me and a few buddies went out to see what came in. 95% of it were "farm guns" (old .22s, shotguns, etc) which I'm sure the media will spin into whatever cop-killing babby-mutiliating nonsense they can.

This was the diamond in the rough I was able to walk home with for a paltry $80, a Remington Model 11. I bought it from a nice elderly black man who had had it in his family for years.

A cursory inspection of everything proved it would function. The bolt, while sticky, moved freely after cycling it several times. The safety worked and hammer dropped and the mag tube and follower weren't seized. The only thing wrong with the shotgun is the buttstock was cracked where it met the receiver, but I've already sourced a replacement stock set that I'll be using for the restoration of this.
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>> No. 1425 ID: a483ea

How about no.
>> No. 1508 ID: 226faf
Exactly my plan post deployment except do 20" and have a Nordic Components +2 extension. Going to refinish the wood and reblue the metal. Its going to match my snub 32 S&W Long as wall hangers
>> No. 1519 ID: f8ece4
Just remember that the barrel retracts while firing. Don't put any accessories on the barrel/tube that would interfere with the barrel recoiling back three inches.
>> No. 1524 ID: 66163b

It is pleasant to find this thread here as I just bought a Belgium-made Auto-5 "light twelve" and spent the evening cleaning it and getting acquainted. One important thing to note is that the brass friction collar/steel ring setup for the Remington Model 11 is apparently backwards from the original Browning setup. To reiterate:


Just a heads up to all of you out there so you don't have to re-assemble your shotgun twice like I just did. On the Browning the beveled edges of the friction rings always face forwards (towards the muzzle), with the flat edges closest to the receiver, while on the Remington 11 the beveled edge (usually) faces towards the receiver. Thanks again for the info.

Link to BROWNING AUTO 5 manual: http://media.browning.com/pdf/om/auto5_light_om_s.pdf

Link to Remington 11 recoil system diagram: http://www.leeroysramblings.com/hunting/rem_recoilring.jpg
>> No. 1527 ID: b4da3f
My Model 11's spring is so tired I have it on maximum friction, even though it has a Cutts on it.

I need to replace the recoil setup, methinks.

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1468 No. 1468 ID: 6b1618 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
Now the 7 day wait.


Bought a lower today. The Manufacturer walked into the local toy store today whilst I was checking on the prognosis of previously ordered lowers.
He had 8 in hand. The purveyor bought all of them on the spot. I in turn bought #0015X. The quality looks good. Cost was $149 retail.
Cal marked multi.

This begs the question .. what to build it as ... Alas RI is not NFA compatible so the choices are limited.

BTW ... Second post from a Lurker. Don't flame too hard guise.
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>> No. 1491 ID: 6b1618
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My two lowers together .. The Slickside Colt has the Fun Boss .. the new one doesn't. Not that it matters *that* much.

I am not 100% sure, but I think that's something the Fun Police mandated correct ?

Anyway .. found a Single Stage RRA lpk in stock for $79 .. ordered same. Anybody know of ANY company that makes protectors/plugs for the Rec tube threads?

I also double checked the bound book and 4473. Listed as "Other" which to me = assembly as a pistol first. That has been decided.

The plan so far is I am going to set it up as a 22 until I get the scratch to buy a PDS Pistol Upper or OA 93 upper .. though if I find a LR300 upper, that would be the balls.

I am open to other suggestions as well if there are other known buffer tube-less systems.
>> No. 1496 ID: c3e6b2
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The orange thing is call "Accu-Wedge" simple Google search should yield some results and just pick from your preferred online retailer
>> No. 1497 ID: 6b1618
Actually I meant where to find a "plug" or anything that can be use to protect the threads of the lower, where the buffer tube screws in.
Now that I think about it ... is there any manufacturer that has an endplate that is meant to be used without a Buffer tube? All this is because I would not like to have a gaping threaded hole at the back while in 22 mode (no buffer tube)
I have had that Accu-wedge in there for a good while now .. whomever came up with the idea was using his noggin for sure.
It keeps things Neizentight.
>> No. 1502 ID: 6b1618
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Done. For now.

It appears Spikes (and a couple of others) makes the threaded plug for the buffer tower I was referring to. It would be really trick to get one with a chunk of PicRail that could be mounted to the center of it, in lieu of a QD .. but the QD hole could be tapped ... hmmmm.

Anyway it looks much better with parts in it.

Now for an upper ......
>> No. 1504 ID: 5c7b98

FWIW it makes cracking open an AR a pain in the fucking ass. First order of business in the CF whenever we were issued new (to us) rifles - check for that stupid fucking wedge and yank it.

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1412 No. 1412 ID: 601156 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
So I got bored, and you know that means? Time for another installment of RTF's crazy DIY projects!

Before I go any further, I was completely inspired to do this project by my buddy HUFFWELL's Pelican Case:


Having gotten to play with that case in person - it's REALLY cool. Fucking heavy though, took both of us to load/unload it from my Jeep.

Basically, I wanted to do something similar with my safe door, so after thinking about it for a while, then getting bored, then finding myself near the ACE, I decided to pick up some velcro and go for it.
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>> No. 1472 ID: 601156
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Stuff from ITS came in today, here's a shot of the finished project. Saves a lot of space, makes stuff easier to access, I'm loving it!

I'll probably be picking up a second safe by the end of the year (out of room for long guns in this one), so I'll likely do this modification to that one too.
>> No. 1474 ID: f8ece4
Oh you poor dear, having too many guns for your safe.
>> No. 1475 ID: 601156

I know, it hurts so bad :D

I've got plenty of room for handguns and receivers, just no space for long guns anymore.
>> No. 1476 ID: f8ece4
I'll store that Dissy upper of yours. I'll store it real nice.
>> No. 1489 ID: 1341b4
I'm out of space too. But that's cause mine is only an 8 gun safe. Shit's pretty small. Still, it was a fucking pain in the ass to get it up stairs. I have a completely empty shelf for handguns still that just has dessicant sitting on it right now. But man, I just love buying rifles a lot more.

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762 No. 762 ID: e5fb94 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
tl;dr looking to weld a receiver from flats, need tips

I've been toying with the idea of building a Galil, but have been having a hard time finding a receiver. I came across a site selling flats that you can weld up, has anyone ever done this?

I would like to think of myself as a capable welder, and have access to TIG, MIG and stick welders(I'd probably do TIG, open to recommendations).

Would I have to do any bending? Or just tack it up and weld it?
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>> No. 890 ID: d2835b
Source for parts kit?! I am looking for a ak74 parts kit..
>> No. 891 ID: 601156

I lucked out and got one from a guy in uzitalk, finding one for a Galil anywhere else is pure madness at this point. Missing a few parts, but got a good price, and he was really nice and easy to deal with.

Aside from ARFcoms board, here's a few places you might want to try (most everything is out of stock though, and avoid Blackthorne unless you want missing parts in your kit or lots of random US made ones snuck in):





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>> No. 895 ID: e28a05
Just avoid Blackthorne completely.
>> No. 897 ID: d2835b
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You are most kind my friend!
>> No. 1465 ID: 8eab8b
If you're the same person as A Simple South Dakotan, I need you to email me ASAP.

No. 1436 ID: 374e02 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
  Years ago, before I started college, my father decided to give me his old S&W 2206 stainless steel target pistol after he found out I loved shooting more than he did.

This will probably be the first time the pistol has ever been detail stripped and cleaned.

Using this 240p video as a guide, I set off to clean my heirloom
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>> No. 1458 ID: 374e02
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Recoil spring and guide rod go back on after the slide.

Funny thing, the damn gun needs a tool for disassembly and reassembly, but that was something my dad lost long, long ago.
>> No. 1459 ID: 374e02
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Fortunately, you're allowed to improvise.

I usually use a .22LR case, but I couldn't find one for some reason.

A .22WMR case is fine too.
>> No. 1460 ID: 374e02
File 136401076561.jpg - (3.80MB , 4912x3264 , DSC01154.jpg )
Push it just right, and you'll be able to put the recoil guide plug back in place.
>> No. 1461 ID: 374e02
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and then you're good to go.

Thanks for reading.
>> No. 1462 ID: 9af714
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Hey!I have one of those guys. (mine does not have a can)

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1069 No. 1069 ID: b6eb2a hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
So I bought a Marlin 336 Not too long ago, and took it to the range. Sometime on the way back, the buckhorn sights snapped in half. No worries, those sights were shit and being the practical man I am, I already had an XS ghost ring set on order.

I'm expecting them to come in today, so I set about removing the receiver screws and... god fucking dammit. They are cemented in by the bluing or something. I nearly stripped them.

How do I get these fuckers out? Is there something I can use to break down the cemented bluing?
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>> No. 1108 ID: f17633
It often takes a couple whacks, we do it at work all the time. Takes a bit of patience. Sometimes we just hit it hard enough to break the screw in chunks.
>> No. 1194 ID: b6eb2a

The repair shop just e-mailed me saying they couldn't get the plug screws out either, and will be sending me a replacement rifle. I fell less bad about myself.
>> No. 1210 ID: f17633
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>they couldn't get it out either so they sent you a new rifle

I hope its all good/fit/finish and smooth on the inside and all unlike some new Marlins.
>> No. 1405 ID: d444df
Step 1: Apply 1:1:1 acetone/Marvel Mystery oil/paint thinner mix to screw

Step 2: Wait

Step 3: Centerpunch in the EXACT center of the screw

Step 4: Left-hand drill bit

If Step 4 hasn't worked,

Step 5: Apply heat (Not some shitty soldering iron, use a propane torch)

Step 5a: Heat to ~350-400 degrees

Step 5b: quench with mix from Step 1
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>> No. 1406 ID: b6eb2a

They let me exchange it for a Remington 700. It looks to be in excellent shape. The first thing I did was check the plug screws, they came right out.

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610 No. 610 ID: 7b9a9b hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
And this shit happened. The primer's dented, it didn't cycle, it would fire but I had to cycle with the charging handle and when the round came out it looked like this. I have no idea what's going on.
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>> No. 673 ID: c3e6b2
Yes reverse lip
>> No. 675 ID: f2e3bc
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I picked up a GI mag at the local gun store on my way back from lunch break and it feeds and drops effortlessly. So I stare at my PMAG and this new mag and notice an indention on the front of the GI that the PMAG doesn't have. That's right about where my PMAGs are getting scuffed up too.

Anyone else able to finger fuck their mag well? I'm interested to see if the other people having the same issue as me have the lip.
>> No. 679 ID: ffba8d
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What kind of feedramps do you have?
What's it look like?
>> No. 681 ID: f2e3bc
M4 style, the "good" kind.

I haven't shot it yet but it seems to feed properly once the mag is in there', it's just rough getting it in and taking it out.
>> No. 1374 ID: 3ef1bd
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Fwiw .. my Thermold mags have said step on the top forward portion of the mag.

Pic not mine but related.

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1245 No. 1245 ID: c2693c hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
So I've been thinking about setting up a table for gunsmithing, and the like. I plan on buying as I can afford to buy things for reloading, gunsmithing, and, eventually, for doing Duracoat. I'm down on all the things I'll need for reloading, and Duracoating, but I have no idea where to start on gunsmithing tools.

I'll be focusing on my guns at first, mainly my AR, and Glock. I was looking at "sets" on Brownells, but the seem to be all sold out, or backordered. What should I be looking for as far as the tools of the trade go? Anything I should avoid?

Also, general gunsmith tool thread. Show me what you've got.
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>> No. 1284 ID: a483ea

That's why I bought 4 sets of them lol. Surprisingly stout, though. When I finally eat through what I have I'll spring for the real deal.
>> No. 1292 ID: f17633
Other handy workshop tools:

>Belt sander
Sizable one, 4 to 6" wide
>Bench grinder
Fine and coarse, don't cheap out. You want one that spins true; I'm speaking from a very good bit of experience that it SUCKS A WHOLE FUCKING LOT to have a bench grinder that spins like a hula hoop. Mother of fucking god. We have an old bench grinder at work that shakes so much it numbs your hands if you have more than an endmill to grind a flat on. Plus, it gets fucking impossible to grind a proper flat when the endmill is dancing around and vibrating every which way. You want a honing stone and you want some decent power. Baby the fuck out of the fine stone; you will hate yourself if you abuse the fine stone when you're trying to sharpen a drill or when you're grinding an HSS turning point or something.
>cutoff tool of some sort
When you get too lazy to trim a hard, thick bolt or hardened steel spigot with a hacksaw.

For all of the above, keep a tupperware full of water around. Don't let the shit turn color, don't wear gloves. When it gets warm in your fingers, cool it down. You'll be dunking it every three seconds or so.

One thing I missed completely is lights.


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>> No. 1294 ID: f17633
File 136212741270.jpg - (15.18KB , 300x300 , azizlight.jpg )
Protip: A sleepy Egyptian kid will not provide you with enough light.
>> No. 1305 ID: f8ece4
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Although, it WAS pretty cool when the dude tried to defend himself with a Mauser C96.
>> No. 1308 ID: f17633
His handwriting is really, really blocky for his era and profession.

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176 No. 176 ID: 88d3fa hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
I had been shopping around a while for a good metal polish of sorts, but I needed one that was non-abrasive and non-acidic. Somewhere I came across Renaissance Wax and now the rest is history.

Basically, this stuff is super awesome wizardry, no joke. It's pretty thin to put on (Just a dab with a rag and you rub it in, let it dry for a minute, then wipe off). It's basically finger print free and it preserves fairly well it seems. I think the coolest thing for me is that it darkened the blue on my Radom Vis 35 and made the finish shine like glass almost.

I put 8 coats on the pistol and it came out pretty great, I also put a coat on my Polish Mauser and it darkened the wood slightly.

Overall, for a nice preserving product on a nice expensive gun, this stuff does pretty well. I'm also thinking about trying it when I refinish an old Maadi AK stock I have, would make a nice top coat over the shellac I think.

Just thought I'd share this with you guys. I got too enthusiastic over on kinder /k/ and they thought I was marketing, LOL.
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>> No. 1115 ID: 00a4ed
I just bought a can of it for my Star.

Will post results when it comes in.
>> No. 1183 ID: 64dd2c
I read about it a few years ago, then forgot about it. after larry potterfield endorsed it I bought a can and subsequently wiped down each of my firearms with it. application is easy, gives a nice pearl finish that doesn't feel sticky nor catches dust. gefällt mir.
>> No. 1300 ID: a333de
Bought a can of the stuff. Tried it out on an old .22. Seems to work fine, but I would have liked a higher gloss finish. I'll wait a little while and see how it holds up to rust on that. If it doesn't suck, I'll probably apply it to the metal of all my guns outside the action. We'll have to see how it handles heat, as well as if it can be used on a bolt or other moving part.
>> No. 1301 ID: 8d1a71
Did you degrease it with at least alcohol first? If not, then you won't yield a higher gloss, also won't work as well if the bluing is slightly more matte or aged badly.
>> No. 1307 ID: fc6c47
Watching this thread. I have a shotgun I only use infrequently, and there is quite a bit more moisture where I am living now.

Hey DD, this is somewhat off topic but I remember some time ago seeing you mention some stuff that would chemically react with red rust present on steel, in order to do a thorough rust removal. Do you happen to recall what that was?

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