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PBE Felix and Deagle Boltface Patches On Sale Now!



File 136255879178.jpg - (11.42KB , 216x216 , thumbs_up_i_like_guns_postcards-r50caaf6a91d644519.jpg )
1302 No. 1302 ID: c29d11 hide watch quickreply [Reply]
what's the best lube? (as in prevents friction the best)

what's the best rust preventative/protectant?
>> No. 1306 ID: 3626f0
Well, for metal on metal contact, I haven't come across anything better than swiss automatenfett. But I also use a lot of teflon based oils as well.
(don't put those in your barrel though)

I do think it largely depends on your environment btw. The best lube for -10°C is probably not the same lubes as the best one for +30°C. The best lube for a match grade .22LR bolt action aint the same as for a full auto AK.


File AK47receiverplan_rev2.pdf - (68.21KB )
1089 No. 1089 ID: 10fe67 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
I don't know if anyone has a dimensional schematic for the barrel trunnion on an AKM with annotations but I figured I should ask.

Regardless a random schematic thread wouldn't be amiss either.
11 posts and 5 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 1178 ID: f3e044
File 136011814481.jpg - (639.56KB , 1200x1600 , IMG_0108.jpg )
1178
>>1176
Use an internal grooving tool to cut out the inner chamber, like the tool I made on the right (the thing that looks like a hook).

This is one of two identical "brakes" that I made for one of my coworkers. It's for a .22lr so I guess it's more a muzzle weight than anything. It's pretty massive. Kind of for no real reason too. 1" dia. 1/2 x 28 UNEF threads (same as for an AR15).

The holes on the sides were cut on an indexing head. The holes on the face were cut by the power of math after dialing in onto the center hole.
>> No. 1179 ID: f3e044
>>1177
The design sans holes is a little more dangerous in that aspect. The ports would enhance the noise actually.
>> No. 1180 ID: caf076
>>1178
>>1179
I just want to make sure it is in the eyes of ATF is a comp/flash hider instead of a mini silencer.
>> No. 1181 ID: 916fe5
>>1180

if it decreases sound by 1db, it is illegal according to the ATF.
>> No. 1182 ID: 5a7358
From my use it seemed to direct more of the blast forward so it seemed a little quieter from the operator's perspective, but it works almsot in the same way as the Noveskee Flaming Pig (or Krinkov muzzle device, both of which aren't silencers).

When I had it attached it seemed to cycle the gun a bit harder. A friend of mine who was watching noticed that the mark from the ejector was deeper on the back of the casing than the standard AK-74 break.

But yeah, I ended up running a practical rifle stage with it. The thing is unbelievably loud in any sort of corridors or anywhere the muzzle blast can bounce back towards the shooter. So from my un-scientific testing it's not suppressing anything, just directing the blast.

If I can get my hands on a AK-74 parts kit again after this scare I'll probably rebuild the rifle I was running it on and double check the sound levels just to be on the safe side.
But as you can kind of tell, I did end up planning for more porting cuts but didn't get around to them (or have the tooling on hand anymore) and I ended up selling the gun I had it mounted on and just kept the compensator.


>>1177
It shouldn't be too hard to do something like that, I'd just need specifics on how you'd want the cuts done.


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1130 No. 1130 ID: 5a0e31 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
Here is the somewhat completed receiver. All that I will add is a pin above the bolt for the spring. Otherwise somewhat finished. The pins under the sear hold the grip, which currently is a small block that does nothing. Grip to be designed last, as everything is modular.
2 posts omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 1134 ID: 5a0e31
File 135941281851.jpg - (416.34KB , 1920x942 , finishedgun.jpg )
1134
OK I'm done. Uses a small spring that costs $1 at Lowes. Insert on the bolt and ram 5mm pin through. I can't print any of this sadly, but I'll post it so someone else does.
>> No. 1135 ID: 5a0e31
File 135941295184.jpg - (413.01KB , 1920x942 , outgun.jpg )
1135
Here is the how the gun looks as a whole.
>> No. 1136 ID: 5a0e31
Download it here:

http://www.operatorchan.org/z/src/Simple22.zip
>> No. 1138 ID: 123dc5
>>1136
Thanks, when I learn how to use the CNC mill I might try to do a steel frame so that I can legally test printed parts.
Might modify the design so that it has a more defined grip because of the pistol definition laws.
>> No. 1139 ID: 5a0e31
>>1138

Yep, the detachable grip is a big no no. Although on the AR-15 the grip is detachable so I don't really see the difference...


File 134130248424.jpg - (258.77KB , 960x1280 , gunproject_nosights2.jpg )
139 No. 139 ID: 1cdb1f hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
I hijacked /k/anadian's 'Everybody's Projects' thread here back on the old OpChan with this. Little has happened to it since, because I had been studying abroad from last September until two weeks ago.

The Specs:
Double Diamond Law Enforcement Supply dedicated 9mm lower receiver
LWRCI lower parts kit with nickel-boron fire control group
RRA 9mm upper receiver
CMMG ramped 9mm bolt
Spike's Tactical ST-9X 8.5oz. pistol-cal buffer
BCM 10" 9mm barrel
YHM Rifle Length Todd Jarrett Competition Series handguard
SRT Arms 16" integral 9mm suppressor

I bought the upper receiver, barrel, and handguard in September of 2010. They were then shipped off to SRT Arms. I bought the Spike's buffer from AIM Surplus in early October of that year, after Spike's discontinued it. I paid off my previous purchases and saved up for other stuff until January of 2011, when I ordered the DDLES lower. The secretary at SRT screwed up the ATF paperwork on the suppressor, so I had to wait an extra month on top of the 12-week backlog SRT had going on before the upper arrived at my SOT in February 2011. Sent the ATF my Form 4 about a month later. I didn't do the trust or corporation thing, but my county sheriff had no problem with me owning this thing. Meanwhile, the thirty day wait time that was quoted on DDLES's website when I ordered the lower receiver proved quite false. I ordered the remainder of the bits and pieces for the lower in May of 2011. I got the lower receiver in late July 2011, about six months after DDLES took my money. I paid a gunsmith to put the thing together. After all the crap I'd dealt with by this point, I wasn't about to scratch up a $315 lower receiver I had waited six months for.

I took it to a range without any kind of sight in early August. I just wanted to see it work before I left it forever. It was indeed quite quiet with 147gr hollow points. Then I had a failure to extract. Like an idiot, I cleared the jam and continued firing without checking the bore. A couple dozen rounds later, I had a case rupture. I honestly don't know exactly what happened in between there. I read online that the Mountaineer Custom Cartridge stuff I was running through it may be reloaded ammo. I'll probably never use that stuff again, but I can't be sure that was the issue. The case rupture caused the ejection port door spring to come unhooked from the receiver, allowing the ejection port door to rotate freely. Additionally, the handguard rotated a little out of line with the rail on the upper receiver.
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>> No. 202 ID: 609d6f
>>201
Unburned particles of propellant is pretty common with blowback carbines.
>> No. 203 ID: 824045
>>202
Okay. Thanks for your help, Meplat.
>> No. 219 ID: 824045
File 134525531086.jpg - (1.97MB , 3008x2000 , gunproject_EOTech_vs_gasdeflector2.jpg )
219
I got a Colt disconnect spring and had that installed with the LWRC fire control group. During one hundred rounds, I didn't have anything I would call full-auto fire. There was one time where it seemed like it fired as I let the trigger reset. I'm going to call that a fluke until I see it happen again.

Otherwise, I bought a Blue Force Gear VCAS, a qd attachment point for the forearm, two qd sling swivels, a tape switch for my X300, and an EOTech 516. So this project is basically done.

There is one new issue, however. As you can see in my pic, the EOTech and the gas deflector at the back of the ejection port don't really get along all that well. Where I have the EOTech right now is as far forward as it will go without me putting it at least somewhat on the forearm. I anticipated this issue and bought a standard ejection port door to replace the current ejection port door/gas deflector arrangement when I bought the disconnect spring. I'll have my SOT switch those out next week.
>> No. 1111 ID: 824045
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1111
Getting the ejection port door changed out took awhile, but not this long. I just didn't bother to update the thread until now.

One of the guys my SOT uses for gunsmithing is apparently incompetent. The first time I attempted to retrieve the gun from the SOT, the ejection port door spring wasn't wound tight enough. The second time, the barrel nut was only on hand-tight, and the forearm lock ring was not engaging the forearm itself at all. I had them order in the correct YHM forearm wrench and, as with so many other things, the third time was a charm. In between each of these episodes was at least a couple of weeks, as school was keeping me pretty busy.

And the fact one of my SOT's gunsmiths didn't know to tighten the barrel nut past hand tight calls into question whether or not it actually came from SRT Arms like that. I still think it did.

But hey, the darn thing works now.

Here it is enjoying the company of my Beretta.
>> No. 1132 ID: 9a841f
>>1121
Do as you wish. Keep in mind, though, that you won't be able to use a suppressor with the kind of internal volume as what I have, since the suppressor most likely wouldn't be able to go further back on the barrel than the gas block. For reference, my suppressor extends along almost the entire length of the barrel, which was cut down to eight inches before the suppressor was welded on.

I'd appreciate a thread on this thing in here, if you don't mind.


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1101 No. 1101 ID: 38b35c hide watch quickreply [Reply]
Note that the M16A1 and M16A2 buttstock screws are different.

I had an A2 stock, and figured I could replace it with an A1 by ditching the spacer and keeping everything else.

The problem is that the A2 screw is too long, and prevents the buffer from going all the way back. This in turn forces the bolt catch to engage the carrier instead of the bolt face, and prevents the bolt from grabbing cartridges when you release the bolt catch.

Use a proper A1 buttstock screw instead.

It's much shorter and allows everything to work properly.
>> No. 1103 ID: 35e0f8
Yeah I have terrible issues with hacksaws and Dremels too.
>> No. 1116 ID: 9df9b5
>>1103
I don't own or buy hacksaws.

Doing so is a good way to end up in jail for more than a year without a trial.
>> No. 1118 ID: c3e6b2
>>1117
He is parodying S0L


No. 918 ID: a26a45 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
  So I have the urge again to chop my fullzie Glock grip to the length and angle to accept midsize magazines.

I don't have a midsize Glock to compare to and midsize magazines don't fit in the magazine well to give me an internal index point for where to cut. I could try to roughly mark it out by laying the midsize magazine on top of the gun, but that's a little too imprecise for my liking.

Is there any template or something online that I could print off that compares full-size to midsize and where to let the dremel loose?
7 posts and 2 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 928 ID: 42ca4f
I really like the idea behind this mod. you get the longer barrel and sight radius with hte more compact grip. Plus it's apparently a far better carry gun.
>> No. 929 ID: 437a35
If I ever buy a Glock (which I will since there so common) I will be doing this/having a pro do this just to use compact mags.
>> No. 941 ID: a26a45
>>929
If I had the dosh, I might buy a Glock 34 or 35 and chop it down to accept subcompact Glock 26 or 27 magazines just to weird people out.
>> No. 1050 ID: c3ca0b
$70
http://www.bowietacticalconcepts.com/servicesandshipping.html
>> No. 1075 ID: a26a45
>>1050
I ought to take this Dremel tool on the road. Looks like I could earn $140 an hour!


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1044 No. 1044 ID: 5e67b3 hide watch quickreply [Reply]
Anyone know of an exploded diagram for the M&P22?


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690 No. 690 ID: e9d7ce hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
Alright lads, I need some information.

I recently bought a CZ-550 in 6.5x55 in a private sale. The former owner had it match chambered for some reason.

I figured it would be a little tight on some factory ammo, and knew for certain it wouldn't handle any of the 160 grain bullets, as the owner said the chamber was set up for 140 grain loads, but I'm wondering about the safety of firing loads that DO chamber a little more tightly.

Pic related is a 139 grain PRVI SP under a magnifying glass. I colored it with black marker to see where it might be hanging up and then chambered it.
Not only was putting the bolt down a little stiff, but opening it back up was nugget-strength stiff, and the bullet remained in the chamber, while the case was ejected. I had to drop a steel cleaning rod down the barrel to remove the bullet. (hence the expansion on the SP)
After I removed the bullet I tried just re-chambering the brass and it was still a tight fit.

From what I know of how cases and chambers work, there needs to be room for the case to expand to prevent a KB, but just how snug can the bullet be in the barrel?

For more info...I have a 100 count box of unprimed Lapua. These chamber as they are with no problems.
I also have some handloaded Lapua cases with 140 grain Sierra Match King bullets the seller gave me, and these chamber fine.

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3 posts and 1 image omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 703 ID: f9a97c
>>699
trimming the case wont help. Seating the bullet deeper, might. When you remove volume by seating the projo deeper, you potentially increase chamber pressures.

Depends on the load, etc.

You need to get the leade relieved.
>> No. 705 ID: e9d7ce
>>703
And because I can pretty much guess the local gunsmiths I know wont have a 6.5 Swede reamer, I'm going to have to either buy or rent one to get the job done.

I don't understand the purpose of this match chamber at all. Even the guy's handloads are a little tight putting the bolt down.

Really should have studied up on this before I dropped the money.
C'est la vie.

Thanks for the wisdom, Meplat.
>> No. 707 ID: f9a97c
>>705
The leade is just the transition between the very end of the chamber, and the actual rifling.
A common tapered ream should do it, as long as it leaves the chamber alone, and it's jigged true top the bore.

At most I'd have the chamber highly polished. I'd bet that'd help your other issues.
>> No. 770 ID: 540b32
>>690
You could try to get a 6,5x55 Scan reamer and see if it helps.
There are three different kinds of 6,5x55 actualy, the Swedish one, the Norwegian one and the scandinavian one.

Also this problem is quite common in guns chambered for 6,5,
long bullets make for a tricky headspacing and seating depth
>> No. 991 ID: 1b53b5
>>690
The chamber of your rifle is FINE. DO NOT use a chamber reamer on it unless you want the headspace fucked over.

Your problem is the throat, where the rifling lands are cut away and tapered to let the bullet sit before it touches the rifling.

This can be easily fixed (at most 30min of work), but requires a throat reamer, which is very different from a chamber reamer.

When you go to have the throat reamed, you need to decide what is the heaviest bullet you wish to load, and at what overall length you want to load it to, as the less distance between the ogive of the bullet, and where it contacts the taper of the lands (this space is called 'freebore') the more consistent the rifle will be shot to shot.


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677 No. 677 ID: 4f8fa3 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
who has done this?
im looking at the idea of doing a part kit build of a heavy machine gun
why
>for fun of building one
>after i build it i have a heavy machine gun
>cost, it looks like a part kit cost less then a full gun
what i need to know is, what pitfalls are in doing this?
also just some general info and pointers from people who have done this
12 posts and 2 images omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 909 ID: 3679d2
>>718
here in Puerto Rico They processed nationalist/terrorist based on the items they used crossed state lines and commerce clause gave then jurisdiction.
Also I read somewhere that even the tools so If you buy a mill from a place outside state whatever you make with it can fall under the fed has jurisdiction part.

Luckily NFA does not Apply in Puerto Rico so I can make SBR and NFA items without ATF crap. Unfortunately If I decide to move to the US Ill have to pay tax stamps on everything and wait before moving them from Puerto Rico.
>> No. 913 ID: 690ec2
>>909
>Luckily NFA does not Apply in Puerto Rico
wat
>> No. 914 ID: 038051
>>909
>>913
dafuq?

That doesn't sound right to me either.

If it is, hot damn. All that potential.

If PR were NFA-exempt, suddenly I've got a big interest in moving there. If they're voted into the union, I wonder if that means NFA items would have to be grandfathered in...
>> No. 926 ID: e28a05
>>909
Puerto Rico might become a state soon, in which case you'd be fucked.
>> No. 930 ID: 7df055
>>914
We sent the atf a form 4 for a sbr they returned the money and the papers saying we where exempt. If full auto and silencers where legal here texas will look like california compare to pr


File 135584056178.jpg - (390.11KB , 1536x1152 , Rhodesian FAL parts.jpg )
756 No. 756 ID: 8835f7 hide watch expand quickreply [Reply]
A thread for everyone's work in progress guns. M

Maybe you only have one part or maybe you're just waiting to find that last part. Whatever you're building, this is the thread for it.

My Rhodesian marked R1 lower just showed up yesterday. I still need a bunch of parts but it's starting to come together to vaguely resemble something like a rifle.

What's the rest of opchan working on?
3 posts and 1 image omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No. 875 ID: b96bfd
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875
This is what I have for my Rhodie build so far. The rest is on order from DSA and Sarco, both of whom are fucking awesome dudes.
>> No. 876 ID: b96bfd
File 135717331843.jpg - (373.02KB , 1000x750 , 100_1770.jpg )
876
And this is my completed G1. Finally up to snuff, and I couldn't be more pleased with her!
>> No. 879 ID: 0a9437
I've got a couple 80% AK receivers I'm looking forward to putting together. I've ordered the jig to drill the holes. I have no idea where I'll find decent parts kits nowadays.

Since they're unfinished, what do you guys recommend for a finish?
>> No. 903 ID: aa0d42
>>765

You're talking about the Primary Arms Micro Green Dot I assume?

I put one on my Mossberg 500, and it's a perfect shotgun optic. Zeroed easily, highly visible, and even though there is no off switch the battery lasted a good 6 months. Has soon up to a couple decent knocks.

Great product for the money, would recommend.
>> No. 925 ID: 41a524
>>879

I happen to have a partially de-milled Romy kit lying around complete with barrel I'll probably never finish.


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