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File 137878399963.jpg - (2.42MB , 3264x2448 , image.jpg )
2219 No. 2219 ID: 01857c
Second P11 that I've done a polishing job on, I'm personally not a fan of bling, but it's starting to grow on me. Started at 320 grit due to the poor surface quality, up to 1000. Then it went to the wheel, total hours-6.
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>> No. 2220 ID: 01857c
File 137878407674.jpg - (2.22MB , 3264x2448 , image.jpg )
2220
>> No. 2221 ID: 01857c
File 137878412282.jpg - (2.27MB , 3264x2448 , image.jpg )
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>> No. 2222 ID: 01857c
All that is left is the extractor and takedown pin, those may take a little while due to the shit-tier grinding marks.
>> No. 2224 ID: 0a9437
Are you going to put something on it? Cause it's probably gonna rust if you don't
>> No. 2226 ID: 475c77
>>2224
The last one I did was a buddies CCW, he does construction and carries IWB for the past couple months, he claims he wipes it off with a silicone towel before bed. So far no rust on the surface. Keep in mind polished steel does have more resistance to oxidization than a normal surface.
>> No. 2227 ID: c3ca0b
File 137902045313.jpg - (26.27KB , 500x500 , boeshield.jpg )
2227
+1 several friends who have polished guns and parts to a mirror shine without issue.

Do recommend
Boeshield, Boeing waxy protection
http://www.brownells.com/gun-cleaning-chemicals/oils-lubricants/rust-prevention/t-9-waterproof-lube-boeshield-12-oz-aerosol-sku686-900-012-9719-24708.aspx
>> No. 2228 ID: 01857c
>>2227
That is pretty cool, I'm definitively ordering now, thanks
>> No. 2232 ID: 993a52
File 137911739538.jpg - (1.36MB , 3264x2448 , Img_2589a.jpg )
2232
how do you do this?

Also
>typical P11 owners' collection
>> No. 2233 ID: 4f6426
File 13791234344.jpg - (2.15MB , 3264x2448 , image.jpg )
2233
>>2232
Soak slide/barrel in Vinegar for 1 hour, use a scotchbrite pad to scrub parkerizing finish off.

I started at 320 grit paper and wet sanded up too 1500 grit.

Liberal usage of bench buffing wheel, finished with Mothers Mag and Aluminum polish by hand.
That's a simplified version, took a lot of trial and error, Keltecs surface quality is pretty rough under that parkerizing, had to remove quite a bit of surface imperfections.
>> No. 2235 ID: 993a52
>>2233
so is the amount of metal taken off from this process significant enough to cause any issues? I guess if it's just on the outside...

and how does this affect racking the slide? Is it much slicker?
>> No. 2236 ID: cfd243
>>2235
Doubtful, very little metal is removed, grip is somewhat compromised I imagine, but I have yet to compare them side by side.
>> No. 2242 ID: 4f6426
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2242
>> No. 2247 ID: cfd243
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2247
Almost there ...
>> No. 2256 ID: 39d5ed
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2256
>> No. 2269 ID: 9a23d7
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>> No. 2273 ID: 1438f6
>>2242

I kind of like this dirty flat look. It reminds me of an old gun with the bluing worn off.
>> No. 2274 ID: 70d45e
>>2273
Hah, right, I never looked at it that way
>> No. 2296 ID: 1438f6
>>2274

And I didn't mean to undermine your stellar polishing job.

I remember polishing was the most frustrating and irritating part of bluing preparation for me.
>> No. 2297 ID: 4f6426
>>2296
Oh no, I understand, I agree entirely, it does look good that way as well.
>> No. 2303 ID: be0c5c
>>2296
>I remember polishing was the most frustrating and irritating part of bluing preparation for me.

That's why I don't blue anymore. If someone comes to my shop for a refinish job it's duracoat or parkerizing.

Fantastic job.
>> No. 3570 ID: 804d8c
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>> No. 3572 ID: 6372b6
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3572
Having polished a few things in the "european stick up ass" method, I can say that it's a fuckton of trouble and work. I did the buttplate, the action, the barrel, the bolt, and the recoil lug. No good pics of those, I'll take some eventually.

Method went as follows:
>Rough file any bumps off. File until divots caused from filing said bumps are evened out with the entire workpiece, all over.
>Fine file until rough file marks are gone, filing any remaining divots, bumps, or dips of any size, blending the whole surface together
>180 sandpaper until file marks are gone (all the file marks)
>240 sandpaper at a 90 degree angle from the 180grit until all the 180 grit marks are gone
>320, perpendicular to 240
>400, perpendicular to 320
>400 again
>600 along the longest length in the workpiece
>600 until all 400 marks are gone
>800 until all 600 marks are gone
At 600 to 800, examine under bright light and magnification to see if ANY marks from previous grits remain. If they do, go back down a grit and start the whole thing all over again, all over the piece. This is important as you don't want a wave/wobble to build up from spot-sanding.
>polishing wheel with 555+ fine paste can be used at this stage for some parts, but anything with edges are no-go

I stopped at 1000 grit for my parts, seemed shiny enough. All by hand, took about 4 days of sanding 5 hours per day for all the parts from saw-cut/big grain sandblast parkerization.

If I did something like pic related again for a customer or something, it would not be cheap.

Pic is the buttplate and tung oil finished stock (similar process, less work but more drying time between 600 grit tung coats or final rubbings with a few drops of tung and my palm). I fitted the screws so they'd line up straight.
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