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Patches and Stickers for sale here

File 14034067509.jpg - (898.38KB , 1920x979 , box1.jpg )
2774 No. 2774 ID: 0066b5
Here I thought a name like "strip club" would attract attention.

Well we're kicking this strip up a notch, because we're starting with a box.

So what could be inside?
Expand all images
>> No. 2775 ID: 0066b5
File 140340700148.jpg - (925.09KB , 1920x892 , box2.jpg )
It's a pretty box, fairly large and heavy.

As we see here, this box is bigger than a Mossberg 590A1, sporting the heavy 20" barrel and ghost ring sights. I could imagine that you could put at least two shotguns in this box. However, this box contains no shotguns.
>> No. 2776 ID: 824045
A Lahti anti-tank gun.
>> No. 2777 ID: 0066b5
I wish...
>> No. 2778 ID: 0066b5
Oh, one try per OPERATOR. I want to keep things relatively fair for those of us with varying schedules. Can't have one guy just guess on and on.

I'll check back tomorrow morning.
>> No. 2779 ID: 06ae7b
Since is stripclub I am guessing it's weapon related?
>> No. 2780 ID: 0066b5
Yep. This is weapon related.

If it was a fuckhuge dragon dildo I'd be making this thread in /dmz/. I think I'd want a dragon dildo that big, and make a lamp out of it.
>> No. 2781 ID: e68bea
Steyr HS .50.
>> No. 2782 ID: d444df
>> No. 2783 ID: 885afe
The lack of any observable rope handles narrows it down. Yep, talkin out my ass

If it was taller id say an old korean era 75mm rifle.

But Ill just go with a musket.
>> No. 2784 ID: cb8f22
I wonder how I can give a hint without being too obvious.

Do you guys just want to see what's inside?

Timbits are overrated anyway.
>> No. 2785 ID: b16efc
File 140344518525.jpg - (65.67KB , 600x204 , docs_big_boomers.jpg )
.58 caliber muzzle loader?
>> No. 2786 ID: cfae21
File 140344570019.jpg - (381.49KB , 1800x1200 , ISF_member_armed_with_RPG-7.jpg )
an argh pee gee lols
>> No. 2787 ID: 9e5a34
>> No. 2789 ID: 0066b5

It has a hook.
>> No. 2790 ID: f23512
File 140344874227.jpg - (8.90KB , 650x202 , ptrd_1.jpg )

I figure at that size it is likely a PTRS/PTRD, but I'm putting my official one guess down as a PTRD-41, as it has a handle which looks pretty "hook-like" >>2789.
>> No. 2791 ID: 0066b5
File 140344900812.jpg - (1.40MB , 2800x1057 , cosmo.jpg )
You win!

I guess it was too obvious...
>> No. 2792 ID: 0066b5
File 140344914512.jpg - (1.41MB , 2800x1086 , babby590.jpg )
This is a 1942 made PTRD-41 in 14.5x114 (586/587 bore).

So, want a donut hole?

Email in the field.
>> No. 2793 ID: 0066b5
File 140344932594.jpg - (1.70MB , 2920x1801 , cosmo2.jpg )
I always find it impressive to see the PTRD dwarf that Mossberg. Usually, the 590A1 is seen as a pretty big gun, but compared to 40ish pounds of Russian "fuck you", it looks comically small.

I think its official weight is 38lbs, but there's like two pounds of fucking packing grease.
>> No. 2794 ID: 0066b5
File 140344951045.jpg - (923.93KB , 1920x1129 , cosmo3.jpg )
The extent of the grease is not to be understated.

Looking down the bore, there was no visible rifling due to cosmoline, and a quarter inch of the bore was flat just because the cosmo had settled at that point. Made it look a little triangular.
>> No. 2795 ID: 0066b5
File 140344958790.jpg - (1.50MB , 1920x1440 , cleaningrods.jpg )
I knew the barrel was long so I came with cleaning rods.

Lots of them.

And so the great uncosmolining of our time began.
>> No. 2796 ID: 0066b5
File 140344972415.jpg - (376.80KB , 1200x775 , blearfgfh.jpg )
Grease sloughed off in large lumps, and would permeate brushes to uselessness.
>> No. 2797 ID: 0066b5
File 140345010872.jpg - (503.20KB , 1200x900 , wargarbl.jpg )
Now it got hard to take pictures during the cleaning at regular intervals, because...

>> No. 2798 ID: 0066b5
File 14034502068.jpg - (1.01MB , 1920x1303 , bolt.jpg )
Another one for the sense of scale.

I mean holy shit.

Oh, as soon as I can (probably this evening), I'll strip the cleaned up bolt for you guys to show you how it comes apart and stuff.
>> No. 2799 ID: 9e5a34
File 140345022867.jpg - (1.06MB , 3288x2352 , AP120217121348.jpg )
Very nice, enjoy sir.


>And so the great uncosmolining of our time began.

also enjoy.
>> No. 2800 ID: 0066b5
File 140345027446.jpg - (706.98KB , 1920x1440 , cosmo4.jpg )
It was starting to look like a gun after a few hours.

Oh, that was also the hook I was talking about.
>> No. 2801 ID: 0066b5
File 140345032765.jpg - (947.46KB , 1920x1440 , fuckingcosmo.jpg )
Even the firing pin is big...
>> No. 2802 ID: 0066b5
File 14034504192.jpg - (932.27KB , 1920x903 , horrorsofwar.jpg )
Do excuse the photography. The colors and lighting are wonky, as the sun kept prairie-doggin' it like a cunt behind clouds. Made it hell to get the whites right.

So four hours later, the battlefield looked like this.
>> No. 2803 ID: 0066b5
File 140345058561.jpg - (1.06MB , 1920x1286 , tripodlegftl.jpg )
Three rolls of paper towels, a half dozen terry cloth rags, a half gallon of varsol, two cans of brake cleaner, two cleaning brushes, two tooth brushes, two bottles of Hoppe's gun oil, six pairs of nitrile gloves, and a sunburn later...

The carnage was complete.

And a tripod leg. Fuck.
>> No. 2804 ID: 0066b5
File 140345069354.jpg - (1.02MB , 1920x1095 , horse3.jpg )
More pictures to come, now that it's clean.

I'll thank my bro for his help during The Great Uncosmolining.

Gotta go for now, be back in a bit.
>> No. 2805 ID: f23512
File 140345205581.jpg - (2.52MB , 2112x2816 , IMG_0122.jpg )
I'm jealous.

As a fellow Canadian, I'll take a pass on the timbit and save you the trouble of mailing one out to NS. I'll get one from the local timmies next time I'm out there.
>> No. 2806 ID: 73c984
Holy fucking shit.

War Plan Crimson my friend.
>> No. 2807 ID: cb8f22
Still torn between red or crimson.
>> No. 2808 ID: 39887e
Jeeezus, very fookin' nice me friend. I'm mad jelly.
>> No. 2809 ID: 0066b5
File 140349582329.jpg - (1.17MB , 2385x1231 , open.jpg )
New pictures, and a new name. Gonna try this one out.
>> No. 2810 ID: 0066b5
File 140349637798.jpg - (1.26MB , 2393x1296 , closed.jpg )
As most of you probably know, the action, barrel, trigger group and grip ride as one piece. This entire unit moves back into the stock tube around two and a half inches during recoil; this cams the bolt handle on a ramp, seen here directly behind the bolt handle. Some softer loads don't manage to do this, as the rifle has a good muzzle brake, and because the reciprocating mass is large. The spring is fairly stiff, but can be compressed by putting the rifle muzzle up and pushing down on the barrel.

It's a bit like pushing open a Browning Auto 5.

At first I was surprised to notice that its a cock-on-closing design, like a Lee Enfield, but it makes a lot of sense for a rifle like this; a cocking ramp in the bolt would increase how much force is needed to open it after firing, and that isn't a good thing for a large and higher pressure case that could easily require a good deal of force to extract in normal operation.
>> No. 2811 ID: 0066b5
File 140349664157.jpg - (1.24MB , 2600x1300 , suou.jpg )
The hook-ended firing pin can be pulled to re-cock in case of a poor strike on an especially hard primer, or something.

I'm not sure if it can be pulled and rotated as a safety. I don't think I want to try, as pulling it and rotating it is how you take it apart. I can't say I want to have the bolt disassemble itself whilst still inside the receiver.

Either way, pulling the hook that far back requires a good bit of tugging. Much, much more than a Mosin or a K31.
>> No. 2812 ID: 0066b5
File 140349679891.jpg - (623.40KB , 1920x1071 , suoupen.jpg )
It's a good thing that there's a nice cheek pad, because that bolt alone has heft. It's heavier than a full sized steel frame pistol, and taking it in the face wouldn't be fun during recoil.

Not a lefty friendly gun. Then again, not many Russian guns were all that ambidextrous.
>> No. 2813 ID: 0066b5
File 140349688525.jpg - (784.78KB , 1920x1202 , upskirt.jpg )
Empty cases plop right out the bottom.
>> No. 2814 ID: 0066b5
File 140349695578.jpg - (463.44KB , 1920x1113 , suoupen1.jpg )
Taking the bolt out is pretty simple. There's a nice serrated latch on the left side, just press it in and pull the bolt out.
>> No. 2815 ID: 0066b5
File 140349700220.jpg - (0.97MB , 1920x1440 , lewd.jpg )
Big gun...
>> No. 2816 ID: 0066b5
File 140349706651.jpg - (1.00MB , 2231x1595 , babby303.jpg )
Big rounds.

Here's what a .303 British looks like if its rim butts up against the breech face.
>> No. 2817 ID: 0066b5
File 140349716776.jpg - (646.16KB , 2400x1072 , bolt1.jpg )
So the bolt is a big block of steel with an extractor, and a firing pin assembly.
>> No. 2818 ID: 0066b5
File 140349757145.jpg - (728.10KB , 2300x1072 , bolt2.jpg )
Here's the underside, we can see the extractor sitting in its groove (it looks like a dovetail, and it's probably pinned in just to ensure it doesn't walk out).

One thing you'll notice in a lot of these pictures is just how anal they were about things not walking out. Every single screw, nut, and bolt is staked in. Most of the time, they're staked more than once.

There are three bolts that hold the rail in where the grip slides. They're in a single file, all just to hold the rail, and they're staked four times each. Nigga ain't goin' nowhere.

Enough about that, back to the bolt.

The cocking piece is massive. You don't shut this bolt with a limp-wristed nudge; it needs a good shove to push that cock-on-closing spring, and the bolt lugs are tight in the locking lug recesses. There's really no play back-and-forth with that bolt.
>> No. 2819 ID: 0066b5
File 140349771089.jpg - (737.03KB , 2200x974 , bolt3.jpg )
Taking it apart is just a matter of pulling on the hook until you clear the bolt body, and rotating it 90 degrees.

The cocking piece retainer has a lug, and the bolt has a groove. Once they clear, the cocking assembly pulls right out.
>> No. 2820 ID: 0066b5
File 14034979844.jpg - (1.73MB , 3236x1580 , bolt4.jpg )
The firing pin itself has a grooved section, and the firing pin body has a round lug. There's a retaining spacer that stops the firing pin from walking off the firing pin body lug.

Just pull the retaining spacer until you can remove the firing pin from the pin body, and the rest comes apart. There's the spring, and a split tube to keep the spring from kinking. The cocking piece comes off.

Simpler than a lot of bolts. If you can take a K31 bolt apart, you can take this bolt apart when you're piss fucked up drunk in the dark with frozen fingers.
>> No. 2821 ID: 0066b5
File 14034980493.jpg - (432.55KB , 1920x1578 , pewpewend.jpg )
She got a perdy mouth.
>> No. 2822 ID: 0066b5
File 140349809641.jpg - (855.20KB , 2400x1653 , mouzelbreyk.jpg )
The rifling is actually surprisingly great. Practically pristine.
>> No. 2823 ID: 0066b5
File 140349815781.jpg - (770.29KB , 1567x1025 , riffeling.jpg )
Gonna post a bunch of the rifling and bore pics. They're hard to photograph properly, so I did what I could.
>> No. 2824 ID: 0066b5
File 140349819066.jpg - (413.89KB , 1351x879 , riffleing.jpg )
Tried a few things.
>> No. 2825 ID: 0066b5
File 140349823138.jpg - (405.38KB , 1266x1180 , boer.jpg )
The bore is shiny enough to make funky arse reflections off itself.

Like whoa man.
>> No. 2826 ID: 0066b5
File 140349843188.jpg - (516.70KB , 1330x1184 , boer1.jpg )
There also seems to be a bit of something that hasn't cleaned off completely. I don't think it's rust, it looks more like a bit of cosmoline or old copper fouling that's still coming off; the bore is coated with gun oil as I'm transporting it from one place to another right now, and because the varsol/brake cleaner leaves metal so bare it can rust within minutes when not oiled immediately after.

So that might have something to do with it. The pictures bring that stuff out a bit more, when you do look down the bore with your eyes, it is good rifling.
>> No. 2827 ID: 0066b5
File 140349846184.jpg - (629.81KB , 1472x1399 , boer2.jpg )
Long barrel is loooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooong
>> No. 2828 ID: 0066b5
File 140349852856.jpg - (500.91KB , 1322x1184 , boer3.jpg )
Gratuitous 587 shots.
>> No. 2829 ID: 0066b5
File 140349856590.jpg - (461.33KB , 1193x1154 , boer4.jpg )
Rolled the focus closer to the crown over this and the following two pictures.
>> No. 2830 ID: 0066b5
File 140349859099.jpg - (450.06KB , 1223x1167 , boer5.jpg )
Dem lands and grooves.
>> No. 2831 ID: 0066b5
File 140349860588.jpg - (396.67KB , 1166x1077 , boer6.jpg )
>> No. 2832 ID: 0066b5
File 140349886398.jpg - (1.41MB , 1920x1971 , glorytothesuou.jpg )
With a few more brush passes and patches, I bet it'll look like mirrors fucking everywhere.

That'll have to wait a bit, got a busy week ahead of me.

Also, this thread is long from over. I'm gathering tooling and materials, ordering cerrosafe, and going over the plans for a chamber reamer.

I plan to make my own dies, then turn my own cases, form them in the dies, and turn my own bullets.

Lots more to come.
>> No. 2833 ID: 9ae271
So...stupid question: where did you find one of them? I wouldn't expect your benevolent overlords at the RCMP to allow that sort of firepower to hit the civilian market.
>> No. 2834 ID: f23512
That's the kicker I suppose; IIRC, The rifles aren't hard to come by, but good fucking luck finding any ammo.
>> No. 2835 ID: cb8f22

Fucking phone lol.

Oh, where did you get that case and that round? Is there more? Could I purchase anything/all?

50 BMG, 55 Boys, 14.5x114, 20mm and such calibers have no restrictions, and as long as the guns they're fired from aren't full-auto, they're in the same class as hunting rifles and shotguns, needing no registration.

Of course, you still need the non-restricted firearm license, but this was legally purchased at a reputable gun store (the collector's source).
>> No. 2836 ID: f23512
The case was found by a family member, and then it was passed my way. The "full" round is inert (no charge, used primer), and was purchased in the giftshop of the Bovington Tank Museum (now called "The Tank Museum") when I was living over there. The packaging from the round had a link to the suppliers website, which I think I bookmarked somewhere. Since I'm not prepared to part with the round, I'll try to find the link for you.
>> No. 2837 ID: c3e6b2
I want to know how are you going to transport it to the range. It's almost comically long
>> No. 2838 ID: 63b86b
File 140354415144.jpg - (3.65MB , 4128x2322 , 20140622_221733.jpg )
That would be perfect, thank you.

6'7",it's quite comfortably in the "comically long" category.

Still fits in the ol' boat, worth more than it too.
>> No. 2839 ID: f23512
I found the website, but I couldn't find a listing for the 14.5x114mm round on it anymore (they do claim to carry 30mm/35mm shells though). Its possible they don't carry it any longer, but just in case I've sent them an email enquiry. It looks like they are operating out of the UK, so I'm not sure how that affects shipping, with inert rounds going international post.
>> No. 2840 ID: 512a77
File 14035682398.jpg - (14.05KB , 225x225 , mTVSNyB8hE7Na8CZYKo3h-A.jpg )

I still can't believe how cool it is you've got a PTRD.
>> No. 2842 ID: 63b86b
File 140357547339.jpg - (341.58KB , 960x1280 , yeahboheee.jpg )
Been walkin' on sunshine since I got my hands on her.
>> No. 2843 ID: b5332d
Is the positioning of that barrel intentional or subconscious?
>> No. 2844 ID: 63b86b
Its too long to put any other way...
>> No. 2845 ID: 63b86b
File 140363387684.jpg - (1.37MB , 1920x1595 , horse2.jpg )

So I was confused at the lack of bipod and contacted Collector's Source. The nice gentleman at the end of the line expressed his surprise, and said that he'd have to find it or find one, but only when he's returned in the middle of July due to extenuating circumstances.

Looks like I'll get this girl a pair of legs soon enough, because I don't think the muzzle blast would be pleasant in this position.
>> No. 2848 ID: 63b86b
File 140416414311.jpg - (1.28MB , 3066x1558 , 20140630_173142.jpg )
>get some copper solvent
>squirt in bore
>brush a few times
>take a look
>good coat of solvent in every land and groove, down to the corners
>wait 30 minutes
>brush 20ish times
>run a few patches down
>they're so green they come out almost black
>squirt a bunch of solvent in
>let it sit for an hour
>brush it 50 times
>run a few patches down
>repeat process

It's been four hours of this. They're still coming out almost black. I can still see streaks of copper in the grooves.

It's endless. I think I'll run out of solvent before this thing cleans up.
>> No. 2849 ID: f23512
File 140417002516.jpg - (191.93KB , 1280x960 , 138326273995.jpg )
>seal off one end of barrel
>fill with solvent
>let sit overnight
>pray to The Machine God
>Hello tech-support; have you tried lighting some incense?

In related news, or lack there of, I still haven't gotten an email back yet from that website I mentioned previously. I suspect they have gone defunct.
>> No. 2850 ID: 63b86b
File 140417161915.jpg - (80.39KB , 400x400 , 19952379.jpg )
With a 53" barrel (not counting the massive chamber), I'd need about 8oz to fill the barrel. I should be able to plug it right at the neck, and fill to the muzzle with two to three bottles of copper solvent. I wonder what I'll use as a plug. Maybe a wine bottle cork?

I did start mumbling the rites of maintenance, and I seem to have gotten the majority of the copper out. I ran out of solvent, and my brush is no good.

Been wondering if it would be worth it to call the War Museum. Maybe some old guy there might know something about where some old brass might be.

Also, gonna try my hand at turning a solid case, the drilling it straight down from the mouth, and then cutting a shotgun primer pocket. The case capacity won't be much more than the volume of a regular 3.5" shotgun shell, and it could be filled with Trail Boss to send thousand-ish grain cast lead bullets at whatever the fuck they feel like flying.

Cheap, nigh-infinitely reusable.
>> No. 2851 ID: f23512
A thought... Would it be possible to turn the base/first ~15-20mm of the cartridge from brass stock, then improvise the rest of the "case" case out of a tube of paper?
I think I saw pictures of something like this at some point for some oddball/wildcat/fuck-huge round, but now I cant seem to find any pictures of it
>> No. 2852 ID: 63b86b
Like a giant paper shotshell hull?

I've been thinking about turning the cases in two separate bits. The head independently from the case body, shoulder, and neck. The two halves would then be pressed together, welded, and remachined.

The original plan is to make a reamer and use the reamer to make dies, and form the cases from a straight machined case (like forming a bottleneck caliber from straight-walled brass), but I'm worried about the case collapsing or folding during this process.

I'll have to experiment a little.
>> No. 2853 ID: 697a8d
I could never get the 29" barrel of my Mosin Nagant completely clean, and I tried for days. Hell, I doubt they were clean when the Russians finished building them during the war.
>> No. 2854 ID: f23512
File 140418381930.jpg - (112.95KB , 810x799 , haha, im doing engineering and this is the best I .jpg )
>Like a giant paper shotshell hull?

Yes, pretty much. I'm not sure how you would get the shoulder set up correctly, but I guess since its paper it would be pretty forgiving, so long as you left enough space in the rest of the body for it to compress in to. I suppose you would also have to be careful to make sure it fed in and seated correctly.
>> No. 2855 ID: 7188a3
  I loled most heartily at dem filenames. This thread is good and you should feel good.

You ever consider rigging an electrical copper removal setup? It's basically reverse electroplating. http://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm#Copper

It might be better to use brass foil case walls instead of paper in a steel base a la 577/450 Martini-Henry. Vid related. The foil will hold a bullet in place once crimped. Also, WPR, I'd use solder instead of welding. That much heat is sure to anneal the brass right where you want it to be strongest.

If this were me, I'd try make combustible case walls using nitrocellulose with a lathe-turned steel base. Basically, I'd take a chamber cast and use it as a base to make up a mold and plug from silicone or something. Then I'd figure out a way to inject goopy nitrocellulose dissolved in acetone (or whatever other solvent works) into the space between the mold and plug and let it set.

Keep in mind, I have exactly zero experience with plastic injection molding. It might be best to compromise between The Heavy Weapons Guy's and my own idea - simply use coiled paper impregnated with NC lacquer to make a combustible papier mache.
>> No. 2877 ID: 3674f5
Very nice, wish I had a spare $3k to add one to my collection.

No idea where in Canada to get any, but 14.5 brass shows up here in the states for $10-20 each, with steel cases being around $10 each. There's also a dozen on gunbroker atm that have been through a KPV, if you have an American friend who'll receive and then reship them to Canada.
You can usually find at least one live 14.5mm shell at most gun shows too, ranging from $25 to about $50 each.

If you do turn your lower capacity case, you'll need to use a .583" reamer for the inside of the neck for good neck tension on the .585" bullets.
I would also recommend casting your chamber for the exact specs, as you will need to turn the case as close to perfect for your chamber as possible in order to allow the shoulder to be pressed tight enough so the minimal neck expansion will seal the chamber.

For this kind of forming you'll want to use a series of dies. I'd go with three forming and one full length sizer (four total). That way each of your forming steps will only be reducing the neck by 3.5mm (which is fine since you'll be annealing the brass), before finally running an expander ball through the neck to uniform it during FL sizing. Expensive and time consuming yes, but this should prevent the majority of case deformations during forming and save your money (and time spent turning/reaming the case bodies).

Alternately you can just buy once fired brass cases and convert the primer pockets to use 50bmg primers, which will be significantly cheaper as all you'll need to buy/have made are the FL sizer die and the seating die (just use a 16.5mm 5C collet for crimping).

CH4D does make a die set for 14.5x114, although it is a 2" die made for their rock crusher press or similar home made presses.
>> No. 2878 ID: 63b86b
Yeah, I'm waiting on Cerrosafe to get exact chamber sizes.

Yeah, the reduced capacity cases aren't gonna give me much trouble, and I'll probably just primer pocket them for 209s since it won't be cooking too hot with trail boss under a cast lead bullet. Those cases will really be for cheap pew pew plinking.

I'll be cutting my own reamer out of an HSS JT5 taper. I have a JT4 taper that I'll probably use to make a "roughing reamer". Those reamers will be used to make my reloading dies.

What about forming cases turned from stainless steel? I hear 416 is used for custom big cases, ATRS mentioned something about how they subcontracted some for a guy up here with a 20mm. Do I need four dies to form the neck like that too? For those neck/shoulder forming dies, I'm thinking of just turning them with a boring bar in two pieces, so I can go down in steps without having to make four reamers. I have access to hydraulic presses, so power isn't an issue; there's a gazillion ton one at work, we use it to press-fit foot wide cylinders with shafts that are like +0.004" over, we don't even chill/heat.

Been looking for any kind of brass, there doesn't seem to be any in Canada. Getting a murricabro to ship it up is probably the only way for that stuff. I'd probably buy brass and steel cases, see what works out best.

I'm also having a bit of a hard time finding info on what powders to use for a standard load... It's not exactly in my reloading manuals.
>> No. 2879 ID: 63b86b
Wait, I'm stupid.

I don't even need a reamer if my plan for two-part dies works. I'll draw up a few things...
>> No. 2883 ID: 3674f5
You can make your reamers easier, cheaper and more precisely from drill rod via this method: http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/downloads/files/-Reamers.pdf or the method in James V. Howe's Modern Gunsmith (a 2 book set by a master machinist and gunsmith).

Stainless would form faster but require that hydraulic press from work (yay for "government jobs"). It would probably need only two dies (a halfway and your final full length sizer), as steel becomes softer as it is worked, unlike brass and copper which become harder. I know a couple places here in the US make stainless 20mm Lathi cases to feed the DD crowd.

You might also consider making just a neck sizing die, as since your gun is a bolt gun, full length sizing (and further stressing the cases) would only be required every so many loadings, while neck sizing would improve the chamber seal and reduce wear.

Since you're going to be making reamers, you might also look into making a set of swaging dies to form jackets from 1/2" copper tubing and fill them with wheel weight or pig lead, unless you want to just use lathe turned bullets for everything.

Brass cases are worth the extra money. My experience reloading steel cases has been at best 3 loadings before the necks split simply due to the poor quality of steel used for cases in former warsaw pact plants.

Powder wise I'd start with something like H50BMG or a surplus 50cal powder. In the US you can sometimes get surplus 20mm powder, which I would also suggest as your case capacity is closer to 20mm than to 50bmg. As for starting loads, while Quickload will come up with numbers for it, I would still approach these with caution as the loading for H50BMG starts over the max load for 50bmg with an 800gr bullet (so the 14.5 is already using a 25% heavier bullet on top of a 40% heavier powder charge).

Quickload generated "starting" loads with a 994gr bullet (extreme caution/be careful/hold my beer and watch this/etc): 315gr H50BMG; 298gr H5010; 313gr H870; or 305gr AA 870.
>> No. 2886 ID: 63b86b
>drill rod
I don't have access to that over 1" in diameter, but my boss has broken drills around 2" in diameter and he's pretty much giving me the tapers. My reamer materials don't really cost me much.

That also looks like a simple reamer design, I was going to cut flutes in it and everything with an indexer.

However that should all be moot, as I'm designing two-part dies; they will look like a bullet mold, but the "second half" is the shoulder and neck area, that can be swapped out with the subsequent sizing. I can do all that with boring bars, since I don't have to work with an inside bore 5" long that goes to 0.587"; a half-inch diameter boring bar 5" long wouldn't cut much. With the two-part dies, I can cut the case body from the head, down to the neck, with a carbide boring bar from the wide end in. For the shoulders and neck, I can cut them the same way with a smaller boring bar, from the shoulder to the neck. I can prep the material first without too much trouble with pre-holes and dowel index holes, I've done that before, that part should be peachy.

>neck sizing
That's the plan after the first fire, even if I'll be making them as close to chamber size as possible.

>swaged bullets

>surplus 20mm powder in the US
So that means I have more chances of seeing a gold-dipped CWO-5 orbiting Jupiter than ever sniffing a waft of that powder, carried along the breeze from the US to here. Because ITAR would block somehow.

"23 round per pound"
>I asked for this

Also, I am jelly of your quickload, can you post the data or something?
>> No. 2887 ID: 63b86b

Works out to a little less than a buck and a half in powder per round. 50BMG Primers are apparently around 75 cents each.

Excluding the cases (the price of those is yet to be seen, as I'm not sure how much the stock material will cost me yet), and the bullets (same deal), looks like the standard load should sit under two and a half to three bucks.

You know, that's not THAT bad. Factory 338 is more than this.
>> No. 2889 ID: 3674f5
I'm spoiled by having a nearby steel (and plastics) company.

The reamer you're planning is more along what Howe covers in his book.

The only issue I can think of with this setup (if I'm thinking of the same die setup you are) is that brass -might- end up with some galling due to the seams in the die. Though if you use a good, even coat of oil it and swage it slowly the oil should fill the gap and prevent any issues.

You just need an ameribro to get some of that big powder up to you.

Don't be too jelly, I don't have access to quickload anymore (went to a trade school that had it on the computers for some reason) but I ran the numbers for 14.5 when I did have access to it.

The reason I would be cautious of the quickload numbers is that the PTRD was proofed for less pressure than the modern 52k psi (how much less I do not know). At least a couple people who've fired modern 14.5 loaded for the KPV end up with damaged/blown up PTRDs.
IMHO I would probably start with a 50bmg load and work up (possibly with a lighter turned copper/brass bullet), as even with the smaller 50bmg load in the much larger case, you'd just end up with low pressure and poor velocity, though I'd be very surprised if that much powder produced a squib.

Case wise the worst you are looking at is $20 each plus whatever S&H hits you for.

It might also be worth looking into 14.5x114 blanks, as many euro countries used the same cases for live ammo as they did for training blanks, and this could net you a cheaper source of primed cases (after dumping the mystery blank powder).

Thinking about all of this, it seems a cruel fate that all the PTRDs are up in Canada, while all the brass, powder and ammo is down here in the states...
>> No. 2891 ID: 63b86b
I have some extreme pressure grease/lube, I wonder if it would work well. I'm afraid of cases folding and crushing more than galling, to be honest.

>kB'ing PTRD

I really do want to have some semblance of safety for my lil' rifle... I don't think I want to go too far in the "weak load" territory, because really slow powders in huge cases with a lot of room to spare is a direct road to "why can my buddy see bits of my rifle through the back of my head". I'll have to contact some people, send PMs on CGN, and see if that guy on /k/ with a Boys and a PTRD has handloaded for his. I'm not pulling the trigger until I have all the info out there.

>Thinking about all of this, it seems a cruel fate that all the PTRDs are up in Canada, while all the brass, powder and ammo is down here in the states...
Uhhh man that's like the story of my life forever with everything I ever do, think about, or want, related to guns or not. Just swap out "PTRD", "brass", "powder", "ammo" for pretty much anything and you now have my existence boiled down.
>> No. 2894 ID: 63b86b
File 14046732482.png - (454.13KB , 453x567 , 135562287310.png )
>go get more copper solvent
>about to go home
>remember that I need to eat sometime this week
>go to grocery store
>getting groceries, see wine bottles
>need cork for barrel, wine bottles have corks, I consume alcohol on occasion
>the goals align
>find something with cork that I'm willing to imbibe
>cider in a shampoo-shaped bottle
>why not
>get home
>no bottle opener
>try to bend a bit of wire into one
>it's working!
>top quarter portion of the starts ripping off
>wire-bottle-opener is nogo
>grab a 4" long 0.5" diameter carbide endmill
>wrap tissue paper around the flutes
>put on eye protection
>hit bottle neck with shank of endmill
>cracks open
>minimal loss of fluids
>cork in a bottle neck
>put rest of bottle in fridge
>wonder how I'm going to get cork out of neck without obliterating my hands
>look at it
>it's about the size of a reloading press ramrod thing...
>put it on the lee

>> No. 2895 ID: 3674f5
File 14046894767.png - (17.87KB , 300x286 , great success.png )
>> No. 2912 ID: d444df
File 14052270825.png - (273.36KB , 575x625 , Operator problems.png )
Fukken saved.

Also I've been seeing your new name around and have been wondering who the fuck you were. Good to know
>> No. 2913 ID: 06ae7b
File 14052763135.jpg - (48.84KB , 720x960 , 1535566_10152254140997985_1181013700_n.jpg )
Should have use screw and pliers
> move into new house
> bought a nice bottle to enjoy with waifu for New Year eve
> everything still in boxes
> couldn't make an educated guess where the bottle opener is
> but work bench stuff has been unpacked
> engineer mode: ON
> enjoy bubbly wine
>> No. 2914 ID: aa95bd
Didn't have any.
>> No. 2915 ID: 7188a3
Oh, that's brilliant. Whenever a cork needed popping and no corkscrew was handy, I always ended up just pushing the cork down until it plopped into the drink. I've never had any wine left afterwards in the bottle those times, but I'm sure parafilm would've been sufficient to reseal had I needed to.
>> No. 2939 ID: 2a299b
File 14057932277.jpg - (562.06KB , 1909x1399 , 8oz.jpg )
So how long should this sit for?

I'm thinking of letting it sit until tomorrow morning.
>> No. 2940 ID: 2a299b
File 140579334528.jpg - (352.50KB , 912x2192 , fumes.jpg )
I still lose my shit at how it just mercilessly dwarfs the toilet.

(There's a vent fan in here, it's why I chose the washroom)
>> No. 2941 ID: 4d0f7d
I know you're intending to make your own dies but if you wanted just buy some a company in Ohio actually makes 14.5x114mm (and lots of other cartridges) dies and I don't think ITAR restricts dies.
>> No. 2943 ID: c1c20f
36 hours with Hoppe's Bench Rest Copper Solvent did absolutely nothing.

No change.

Not a single shred of difference. Everything smells like ammonia now though.
>> No. 2944 ID: 7188a3
Is there a particular reason you aren't using an electrical copper removal setup?
>> No. 2945 ID: 3034cc
Don't know how, don't want to fuck it up, don't know anything about crazy space electro-magic.
>> No. 2946 ID: 3034cc
Also, ammonia should have worked.

Why didn't it? Did the Russians use bullets with a different alloy of gilding metal?

I can clearly see this yellow, copper/brass-ish color (NOT rust, it's very evidently some sort of bullet fouling) in the bore.

Who's to say wizard lightning science copper removal will work if ammonia didn't?
>> No. 2947 ID: 51a524
File 140594646342.jpg - (77.86KB , 476x532 , e.jpg )
>I can clearly see this yellow, copper/brass-ish color
Does it look like this?

This stuff is supposed to work well where other methods fail.
>> No. 2948 ID: 02c021
Yeah, but it's in the grooves, and it looks about a thou thick.

Also, I'll probably end up machining the cases inside and out, no dies.
>> No. 2949 ID: d3b4f6
Could it be some other metal or combination of metals like nickel or steel? I only ask because I've bought and sold a few rounds of 14.5mm in the last year and I've seen a number of different jackets including gilding copper, copper washed mild steel and nickel plated.
>> No. 2950 ID: 88ac26
Might be, I can't exactly tell just by looking. I'll find some Wipeout and give it a try.
>> No. 2951 ID: 88ac26
File 140615076992.jpg - (1.97MB , 3248x2960 , 416stock.jpg )
Steel came in, then I cut and deburred it during my breaks.

29 pieces, total cost of 300 bucks for the steel. It should have been 30, but I got jewed an inch on 144, fucked me over.

$10.35 per case is still okay, as these should last quite a while.
>> No. 2952 ID: 7188a3
>Shrugging off $270
Dude, what.
>> No. 2953 ID: 5adb5b
He meant to say that he cut the bar into 29 pieces because the length was an inch short, it should have been 30 pieces.
>> No. 2955 ID: ab594d
What Climber said, I'm still trying to figure out what I said wrong to make PONY think I chucked 270 bucks out the window without caring or something. I just lost around 10 dollars of steel but that short piece will be used for cutting tests with my new boring bar design. Not sure when I'll have the chance to make it, but thankfully it isn't that complex.

I bet I'll make it, only to see that something like it has been around for a while and I could have just bought it for cheap off my job's supplier for cheap.
>> No. 2956 ID: ab594d
Oh, wait, you thought I thought 12 feet of cold rolled 416 was going to be 30 bucks?

Maybe in the States it is or something, but up here, steel is pretty expensive. The whole bar is within 0.002" in diameter (over its 12 feet length), quite round and straight. Good steel isn't cheap... I'd rather pay a little more for something I know is decent than buy some crap Chinese "Of courrrse it's 416, amerrrican hat pig sirrr" shit that turns out to be painted chinese aluminum.

As we all know, chinese aluminum cuts like crap and is magnetic as hell.
>> No. 2957 ID: c3e6b2
> 12 feet of cold rolled 416 was going to be 30 bucks?

Na dude I got two 12" cold rolled bar stock 1" x 1" was like $38-ish
>> No. 2958 ID: 67f943
File 140633865058.png - (1.94MB , 1635x1000 , 137362682342.png )
>The whole bar is within 0.002" in diameter (over its 12 feet length), quite round and straight.

For those of us who aren't enlightened in the way of machining; why does this tight tolerances matter on the raw bar stock? Aren't you going to be machining it down anyways, and wouldn't any slight bending be negligible due to the fact you've cut it in to segments?
>> No. 2959 ID: 89140d
My Cerrosafe came in! I'm picking it up this weekend, expect updates soon-ish. It's going to be mighty interesting to pour molten alloy into a chamber that's 6 feet up. I'm no manlet but goddamn this shit is going to be all sorts of rock and roll. I foresee a chair, very precariously leaning objects, strange body contortions, and much swearing.

It's all that was available at the time.

On top of that, cold rolled is nicer to work with. It turns straight from the get go, the steel is uniform (grain/stress/composition, no hard spots, no surface oxide, no junk), and it takes off a couple steps to the turning process.
>> No. 2960 ID: 89140d
Also bipod came in too, picking that up at the same time.

Pictures by like Sunday for sure.
>> No. 2961 ID: 67f943
A thought; is there any risk of the cerrosafe alloying with what ever the stuff coating the inside of the barrel? It would be a royal pain if it did alloy, and that then throws off the useful properties of it the cerrosafe for future use.
>> No. 2962 ID: 0066b5
I'll be cleaning it with Wipeout before casting. Hopefully that will work.

If not, I'll try it anyway. CerroSafe casts at temperatures a little lower than boiling water, and the chamber is pretty clean. I won't be casting that far down the barrel, just chamber, freebore, and maybe an inch of rifling. If it does contaminate, it shouldn't contaminate too much.

Apparently, Cerrosafe is more sensitive to over-heating than much else. Not sure how much it would alloy from such low temperature...
>> No. 2963 ID: 7188a3
Thanks for clearing that up. I was all kinds of confused there.

Also, if cerrosafe doesn't work for whatever reason, I've heard of people using sulfur to make a cast. I guess at low enough temperatures it won't react with the steel, but it'd still make me nervous.
>> No. 2964 ID: 67f943
I'm not sure what your background in metallurgy is, so I apologize ahead of time if I sound condescending.

Some metals can alloy at room temperature, a prime example of this is mercury, forming amalgams with many other (solid) metals.
Cerrosafe is just a commercial name for Wood's Metal, and while I'm not sure if it will alloy with the metals present in the barrel, I am cautious about liquid metals being in contact with other metals, liquid or not.

On more factual grounds, Wood's metal is wonderfully toxic (cadmium and lead!), so wear gloves and all that.
>> No. 2966 ID: 0066b5
Cerrosafe isn't exactly Wood's

But it must be quite close to it. It's true that I don't know much about metallurgy, I just cut the stuff, I don't melt it.
>> No. 2970 ID: 68221d
File 140652114659.jpg - (2.25MB , 3468x1058 , suou2.jpg )
Now with 100% more legs!

this picture was one of the most niggering things I've had to do in a long time of being shit a photography
Rifle too long to photograph regularly without moving whole apartment around. Put camera up higher. Camera butts up against the ceiling. Can't see how the camera is framing because I can't fit my head between ceiling and camera. Use mirror. Camera goes to sleep. Wake up camera. No room between ceiling and camera to bounce flash. Set camera on 2 second exposure, grab flash in my hands. Turn off all lights so they won't contaminate bounce flash during 2 second exposure. Need to let camera focus, grab flashlight. Use phone to remote fire camera. Need three hands to shine flashlight on spot I want the camera to focus, trigger camera with phone, chuck all that shit aside, grab flash and fire it off at ceiling before exposure is over.

Picture still looks like ass. I need a drink.

>> No. 2994 ID: f48366
So the fabled Wipeout does nothing.

I'm noticing a small reduction in the bore fouling when I brush. This residue must be somehow immune to chemicals, but seems to slowly brush off. I've started simply squirting oil down the barrel and brushing with vigor.

It appears to be getting an estimated 10% reduction per 100 strokes. I prepare my fap hand for this one.
>> No. 2995 ID: 7188a3
I wouldn't generally recommend this, but you might do better with a fine lapping compound like J-B as long as you go very very carefully. Is it coming out as flakes or what?

If I were you, I'd actually keep it as is until you put some rounds through it and test for precision. If you aren't satisfied, you could then fire lap it to see if it improves. I'd just be worried about removing something that turns out is supposed to be there.
>> No. 2996 ID: 7a7c7b
No flakes. I'll see how this goes today, and keep rubbing until my arm falls off.

The residue can actually be seen here >>2823 and here >>2824.

I'm not going to fire-lap or use an abrasive, unless I actually lead cast lap the bore. The previous two just aren't right.
>> No. 2997 ID: 7188a3
At least it seems to be just sitting in the low spots.

If you have a whole lot of mercury lying around you could try flood the bore with it. Pure copper only amalgamates with great difficulty, but lead, zinc, tin, and other low-temp-melting relatively-nonreactive metals will dissolve just fine without producing a galvanic cell that attacks the steel. Loosened bits of fouling float to the top and you just filter the mercury through a bit of old t-shirt into an airtight container to reuse. If mercury can severely weaken and embrittle old once-fired fulminate-primed brass cases, it might help with your problem.

Of course, there aren't too many people with loads of quicksilver just lying around anymore. It's not as dangerous as the environmentalists make it out to be IF you have adequate ventilation and can prevent droplets from spills going all the fuck over the place. Zinc sponge and flowers of sulfur are useful in the latter case.
>> No. 2998 ID: 7a7c7b
I think I'll just leave it.

Good news though, I found some brass. I might not even have to cast the chamber, when I fire the first round, I'll be able to measure the brass case itself.

I have primers and powder, so the big thing now is slugging and making bullets. Not exactly difficult, but I have to find the right copper to make bullets from.
>> No. 2999 ID: 4416e5

20 brass cases to pick up from the post office (thanks Sebarms)
Bore slugged (.5881)
Primers obtained
Powder obtained
>> No. 3000 ID: c97812
>Bore slugged (.5881)

That's within expected parameters. Neat. I wonder how she'll shoot.
>> No. 3001 ID: 4416e5
File 140907912413.jpg - (148.91KB , 1279x681 , P82s65099.jpg )
Well the exact size isn't crucial compared to the state of the rifling, because I can compensate for that stuff when making my own bullets. I am quite hopeful for good accuracy, because the rifling is pretty nice, and should shoot the properly fitted bullets rather well.

Got my cases in. I chucked about 10 in the tumbler before going "yeah it ain't gonna fit more than that". Tumbler is a Lyman Turbo Pro 1200, and should be able to take 125 cases of 30-06, lol.

I got three steel bullets that I probably won't fire, but I'll be able to use them as a reference when I make my own.
>> No. 3002 ID: 7188a3
>mod get out >:(

Jokes aside, It's terrific you got components lined up, WarPlanRed. JBM ballistics has an excellent bullet stabilization calculator that will give you an idea what sort of projectiles will stabilize in your rifle and how much drag they'll experience in flight. http://www.jbmballistics.com/cgi-bin/jbmdrag-5.1.cgi
What sort of primers does that thing use, anyways?
>> No. 3003 ID: b10277
I fiddled around about a month ago with bullet designs, going off G7 profiles, then using that to come up with volumes and then weight in copper, to find out how long I could go before twist started being an issue, as copper isn't that dense.

I might have to press in a lead core, if my math isn't totally off. The PTRD seems to have a relatively slow twist, as far as Russian military guns go; I'm used to nuggets and stuff with twists quick enough for 240 grains...

For primers, I have to cut the primers pocket open, press fit a bushing for 50BMG primers (CCI#35).

I think they didn't intend to use long bullets in the PTRD. It'll be something to try out.
>> No. 3004 ID: 9ebbb1
>Well the exact size isn't crucial compared to the state of the rifling, because I can compensate for that stuff when making my own bullets.

Sure, but the wider the slug came out, the more likely there would be (uneven) wear on the rifling too.
>> No. 3005 ID: 8a8453
Pushing the slug through, you get the feeling for the barrel if it has rough spots or tight spots. All things considered, this one wasn't too bad.

Would have been a lot better without the Immortal Fouling of Chemical and Physical Immunity.
>> No. 3013 ID: 1d86b1
File 140942185360.jpg - (464.95KB , 3329x605 , 5234423.jpg )
I'm a little surprised at how well this worked out, the shipping box was really cumbersome.
>> No. 3194 ID: 327c77
File 141833567470.png - (932.15KB , 926x960 , 2014-12-11 17_05_06.png )
Finally got around to priming things. I'll do as many as I can tonight.
>> No. 3195 ID: a5dca8
Looks good. Stainless bushing?
>> No. 3196 ID: 6ab689
File 141843960525.jpg - (1.04MB , 2477x1394 , 20141211_191114.jpg )
I had a rod of 3/8ths 1045 (regular cheap shit) that was wonderful for this.

The CCI #35 .50BMG primer is .225" thick with a diameter of .317", while the Russian Berdan is .200" thick and has a diameter of .355". I merely had to drill the rod with a 19/64ths drill and bore it to .316".

Had to make my own babby boring bar with a bit of HSS.
>> No. 3197 ID: 6ab689
File 141843975080.jpg - (614.50KB , 1860x1136 , 20141211_191812.jpg )
I used the lathe dog to push the primer in the bushing, and then parted the bushing off the rest of the rod with a cutoff tool.

The front of a drill chuck is pretty flat, and the square rod was to ensure the primer wasn't pushed in at an angle.
>> No. 3198 ID: 6ab689
File 141843983645.jpg - (689.33KB , 1793x1287 , 20141211_194436.jpg )
The case primer pockets were just bored 0.025" deeper, and .374" in pocket diameter.

Finished the week with 15 primed cases, ready for powder and bullet.
>> No. 3199 ID: 6ab689
File 141843993090.jpg - (768.73KB , 2212x1131 , 20141211_185919.jpg )
Reloading presses are for quitters.
>> No. 3200 ID: 6ab689
As for the projectile, I found a few options.

First, I could buy CNC turned solid copper or brass bullets. The problem with those is the price. They end up being $20 dollars per projectile. Twenty fucking dollars.

Second, I could get a copper rod, that would cost me $75 for 3 feet, and machine my own bullets by hand. That's not so bad, I can match them for the bore diameter and everything.

Third, I could get nylon or teflon rod and make sabots for either stock 50 BMG bullets, or straight up 1045 bar stock. Or an old bit of HSS from an endmill shank. Or even carbide.

Fourth, I can swage copper tubing onto a steel rod, and turn them both on the lathe simultaneously to bullet shape, with only the cannelured copper as bearing surface. I'm looking around for the proper copper tubing right now.

I'll ask at work for the nylon or whatever plastic I could use as a sabot, because that might very well be the cheapest option while requiring the least amount of work.

Final note:
Right now I'm trying to focus on making this as safe as possible, such is the priority. Second is trying to keep it relatively low cost, because I want to put more than ten rounds per year through it without having to sell my kidneys. Third, is some measure of accuracy (car engine block at 50 yards). Fourth is seeing how long the components can last if I keep MV at 3100ft/s or so.
>> No. 3201 ID: dc0192
File 141849780718.jpg - (69.44KB , 800x532 , gas checks.jpg )

This might be a stupid question since I don't know anything about guns this size, but why is hardcast lead with gas check omitted as an option? Is there an integrity issue?

That much lead would obviously have to be bought in bulk & not from the usual recycling sources, and making the custom mold would be somewhat an investment, but in the long run it's probably something you'll be able to shoot more often than the other options?
>> No. 3202 ID: 006111
Ah yes. I have no trouble with that sort of projectile, and will be machining my own mold. However, there's a limit to how hard you can drive even well lubed, sized, gas checked lead without getting intense fouling, so I'd be doing it with the reduced capacity stainless cases. Those cases are to be machined to the same external dimensions of regular cases, but bored to a straight internal diameter, usually called an "everlast" design. This reduced internal capacity would limit powder load so that a reasonable muzzle velocity with mellow operating pressure can be achieved without difficulty.

Tl;dr with regular full cases I don't want to have to scrub lead out of that fucking bajillion feet long bore. I hear Trail Boss can be used in a full case, I'll have to try that too.

I also want that gun for what it was meant to shoot, i.e. an angry steel core 1000 grain bullet at 3000ft/s+ (the factory specs for the early WW2 stuff was actually 3200 to 3300 with a 990 to 1000 grain bullet, but I'd rather be a little more on the safe side when a beer bottle sized round is going off a few inches from my face). I spoke to another guy up here with a PTRD and he said lead loads were nice and all, but let's be honest, we didn't get that gun to load it like grandpa's .577 Snider.
>> No. 3203 ID: dc0192

Alright, makes sense.

With a gun like that, I'd surely make some loads like you described. Sounds like good fun. And the loads being reduced or not... You're still shooting like 900 grain of lead. That shit is going to pack a whallop. Whatever it'll hit, it'll be pretty spectacular.
>> No. 3204 ID: 006111
I'll probably skip right over 900 grain lead and go straight to more weight to make up for slower velocity. Whatever the twist can stabilize, also fuck streamline shapes, they increase bullet length for similar mass.

If I make a lead bullet, it'll be a flying brick. Except less aerodynamic and heavier. Because fuck everything. Just a big flat based round nosed hamburger (quarter pounder) or even cheeseburger if the twist can swing it.
>> No. 3206 ID: 7188a3
File 141853956611.jpg - (331.15KB , 2400x1600 , 37mm_projo1.jpg )
I am very much a fan of the plastic sabots idea. Of course, if you were to figure out a way to make groove-diameter plastic jackets around a bore riding steel core, I'd be a much bigger fan of that.

In fact, have you considered using driving bands? They could be made with copper or plastic.
>> No. 3207 ID: d35b85
>> No. 3208 ID: 6ab689
File 141870063934.jpg - (2.01MB , 4128x2322 , 20141215_204907[1].jpg )
>grab CCI #35
>put on plate on burner
>put on hearing protection
>put on eye protection
>couple minutes pass
>honeydew sized, bright, flash fireball
>noggin begins to churn
>machine out primer pocket of .38 SPL case
>press in #35 primer
>seat lead bullet

Sadly, a Ruger GP100's hammer doesn't have the juice to do much more than scratch the primer. Was kinda cool to think about though, I bet the bullet would have left the barrel.
>> No. 3209 ID: dc0192
File 141875491356.gif - (505.94KB , 499x374 , 53a5509d06d7c11f.gif )

Found WarPlanRed.
>> No. 3210 ID: 6ab689
File 141878446779.gif - (1.83MB , 275x154 , 1388804771207.gif )
That hurts man.

I really don't like monkeys
>> No. 3218 ID: 6f5839
Neat. I see also that you've been able to obtain 14.5mm ammunition.

I hate to ask, but is there any way to mount an optical sight? A rifle in 14.5mm seems to cry out for one, for the same reason that modern .50 BMG target rifles as a general rule have an optic of some kind as the primary sighting mechanism.

Also, let us know what kind of groups you get with it the next time you go and horse around hurr hurr hurr at the range. Wikipedia quotes translated Russian training documents suggesting the original accuracy standards were around 1.2 mrad/5 MOA with delinked MG ammo. This is not unreasonable, given the expected target size and the quality of ammunition manufactured for a belt-fed, area-fire weapon. But I should think the weapon itself would be capable of better, with better quality ammunition. We need to start a write-in campaign and bother Sierra Bullets until they release a 1000gr .58 caliber MatchKing.
>> No. 3219 ID: 6ab689
More like painstakingly assemble from scratch and still don't have actual load data for. Also the projos are still in development.

I might make a sight mount that requires no modification of the rifle at all (make a mount that clamps against the barrel). It would be aluminum so it wouldn't scratch the rifle. I'm kinda hoping for 3 arcmin, give or take (hopefully take) 1 arcmin.
>> No. 3412 ID: c3e6b2
  Here is a PTRS in action
>> No. 3413 ID: e8a108
I'm all kinds of jelly.
>> No. 3414 ID: 70d38f
And here's PTRD.
>> No. 3415 ID: 0066b5
I would do unholy things to see a little russian girl with short red hair do that.
>> No. 3481 ID: e8af03
How goes the work on this project? I just read this whole thread and am excited to see how your bullets are coming or if the barrel ever got clean.
>> No. 3482 ID: 2f62b7
Don't think the barrel will ever be clean, to be honest.

For bullets and the rest, still on hold due to reasons. I need to make a few calls and set up a meeting at work to see if I can subcontract bullets or something, but it'll be a little while.

I'll post updates as they happen.
>> No. 3485 ID: 26cfa0
Having read this thread longt time ago, I dont remember if you tried electrolytic removal of the shit inside your barrel, but Ill toss you a link to some guy on Reddit describing the way its done quite good.


We used to do this exact thing with our M107 and Browning HMG barrels when I was still with the army, mind you we used a power-supply so we could get the best results, but the trick with the phonecharger works to.
>> No. 3535 ID: 6372b6
Okay so projos are in the works. Stock material should be on order by next week.
>> No. 3544 ID: 6057a8
File 144442856218.jpg - (75.96KB , 550x367 , soon-9.jpg )
Material has arrived, just waiting on a lathe to free up.
>> No. 3545 ID: f9905a
So after talking to you on the other Chan I tried the e-mail.
It was for the other PTRD owner in niagra. Let him know about the possibilty of bullets since he missed the thread.
Probably going to order the dies sometime soon.
Shoot me an e-mail at thefrogge at hotmail.
>> No. 3546 ID: 6372b6
>> No. 3576 ID: 7da887
File 145134598793.jpg - (171.83KB , 728x917 , 1206746885873.jpg )
Found pictures!
>> No. 3577 ID: 7da887
File 14513460004.jpg - (189.90KB , 716x946 , 1206746919924.jpg )
>> No. 3578 ID: 7da887
File 145134600781.jpg - (155.49KB , 704x946 , 1206746952304.jpg )
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