This gun came with some spare parts, as well as two small hex keys specifically designed for this. Don't lose them!

It all starts by taking the small hex screw in the trigger guard of the gun.

Definitely DO NOT LOSE THESE

Spin the slide stop clockwise until it's facing upward...

... and give it a poke while the slide is back and it should just drop out.

Slide stop pin in all its glory

Not a very good picture, but here's the upper half leaving the railed frame. Notice the barrel shroud also maintains the recoil spring and guide rod. There's no capture for the spring as it is a flat surface on the inside, so you'll have to ensure the two are aligned when putting it back together.

The barrel shroud is also aluminum.

Detached

Spin it to win it. Out comes the barrel and barrel shroud

Unfortunately, when the revolver arrived, the compensator was on the bottom. The importer put their mark on the *bottom* of the compensator at the time. At least it's better than the shit they do at CAI.

The carrello and cylinder

Other side

Open

The backplate is removed from the slide and here we can see the guts.

The small circle on the bottom left is the cylinder stop piston and it can be removed. It is indexed by that arm and under spring tension. It is one of the biggest follies I've had with this gun so far. As the back plate is held by two small screws, without Loctite, the screws can begin to back out. As the lower screw is deep inside the recesses of the gun when the gun is fully assembled, it can be near impossible to screw it back in. Without the necessary spring tension to operate the cylinder stop, the gun may have a tendency to skip a cylinder when fired.

On the right, there's an arm that looks like it's case hardened or something. This is called the Slide Distributor and is the magic of the whole system. When pulled back, this is what operates the cylinder when engaged by pulling the trigger or when returning back to rest once fired. This can be seen in some later pictures.

The two cylinder release levers can be removed and readjusted using the same hex screw you saw in the first few pictures. The pin they are attached to, the operating pin, is kind of reminiscent of an AR safety pin with the cylinder release levers facing downward as SAFE and facing the operator as FIRE. You cannot pull the trigger when they are down.

When the cylinder has returned and ready to fire, as like a traditional revolver, the extractor piston pushes the operating piston and returns the operating pin back to a fire ready status.

Then the cylinder has been spun to the next chamber, the slide distributor is extended. Note the cam on the end.

Firing pin and spring. Don't dry fire these.

Back plate and screws. They've been Loctited and returned to the slide

Here's the frame, hammer, and something called the Desmo.

The Desmo is the piece that engages the Slide Distributor under operation.

Hammer down, desmo down.

Hammer back, desmo back.

Ready to fire

"Gun has been fired"

Hammer down, desmo back.

Frame internals. Seems like a tight fit.

Basic breakdown. Any more and I'll cry

Barrel and barrel shroud attached and ready to screw back into the slide

Putting it back together, ensure the slide distributor arm is extended and the desmo pin enters the cam. Without these two engaging each other, semiautomatic fire is not possible.

Here's the gun reassembled improperly. A pretty clear indicator of what's wrong.

Properly assembled

And here is the cylinder. Notice that the cylinder locking notches are on the rear of the cylinder.

Here's the cylinder stop piston when engaged

And lastly, here's some paperwork that came with it

Close up of the schematics

Parts list

Thanks for reading. I hope you enjoyed it.

If I were OP:

>Let's take this thing apart.
>On second thought, let's not.

Neat gun, thanks for sharing.

Thanks for posting. I certainly enjoyed it.

  >>3622
>>3624
Thanks guys, I appreciate it.

Also, I made a video of a short demonstration of the action. I know LifeSizePotato and GnR357sig made some videos, but they never showed what's happening at the rear of the cylinder.

There aren't a lot of Mateba videos out there, so I figure one more shouldn't hurt.

>>3601
Additionally, after testing the barrel orientation a bit last time I went shooting, I've concluded that the cylinder stop spring tension wasn't the issue. The issue was that the cylinder gap was too large and didn't produce enough recoil to cycle the action reliably.

However, Loktiting the two backplate screws fixed another problem I probably would have seen later: The lower backplate screw would have gotten in the way of the firing pin. Please see the diagram in the post below.

>>3625
<-- If the bottom screw were loose

If you dont suppress that thing, you aint shit.