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File 141445007266.jpg - (131.67KB , 1280x960 , 1027141528-00.jpg )
6639 No. 6639 ID: 195903
The end result of my first time welding is this ugly motherfucker, two test beads on one part. I know what I did wrong on this one for the most part but does anyone have any tips on welding, welders or other related info?

I'm using a Hobart 140 by the way, sorry the image sucks but it was a cellphone camera.
Expand all images
>> No. 6642 ID: ddcf9f
I can't see well, but it looks like you have porosity. Or it could be that it was intermittent, did you get push back from the wire? I think you need to slow down, and watch your puddle form. You can also try making small loops with the welder all the way down your weld.

As for tips
>check yer fuckin gas
>check yer fuckin pressure
>check yer fuckin wire speed and amps
>brace yer fuckin hand while welding
>don't bend the fuckin welding cable, the mig wire will probably snap
>routinely clean the copper dust out of the liner, fuckin

Tons of tips, I don't mig weld all that much I have a Stick machine but a lot of the basic principles are the same.
>> No. 6643 ID: 195903
>>6642
it's actually 2 beads practically on top of each other since I only had the small scrap to practice on, porosity isn't actually that bad but my beads are far from even or straight. Once I get a chunk of metal longer than 4 inches I should be able to get a better bead going and have much better results.

I have a huge ass tank of Argon and a large spool of solid wire but I'm using the flux core wire without gas since I'd rather wait until I know %100 what I'm doing with the gas before I fuck with it.
>> No. 6644 ID: ddcf9f
>>6643
Flux core is shit, especially without shielding gas. I normally use trigas or a 80/20 argon CO2 mix

As for metal. Metal is everywhere, on the side of roads, in junkyards, backyards, everywere.
>> No. 6657 ID: 195903
>>6644
That is why I'm using flux core to practice forming a nice bead, that way I don't waste my argon and solid wire that is more expensive. I have yet to find some decent metal but a friend who works at an auto shop is going to bring me some scrap to use.
>> No. 6658 ID: b66b3b
>>6642
What Vydunas said.

I had a hard time in high school at first forming puddles without melting big holes in my metal. Then I got the hang of it. I worked with Oxy, Mig and Tig. I ended up getting the highest mark in that school at 98.6%. But like I do with everything I fucked the pooch and got kicked out of class and wasn't allowed to return the next year. Which sucks because I could have actually went somewhere with welding if I had more experience.

Create crescent moons with your bead or a stack of dimes as my teacher calls it. Once you get the motion down its easy cheesy.
>> No. 6659 ID: 5f2bf8
File 141503956364.jpg - (36.04KB , 250x271 , CP-302_Stationary_Pkg.jpg )
6659
>>6644
Listen to this man.

>>6657
>That is why I'm using flux core to practice forming a nice bead

On small single-shield flux core machines like that, you might never form a nice bead. Save yourself the time and move on to solid core, and pick up a small bottle of 75% Argon 25% CO2. Unshielded flux core is a really horrible welding process for the home welder or hobbyist (unless you're hobby is welding ships together, in which case you'll need pic related anyway). It just doesn't begin to shine until you're blasting together 1/2" plate while hanging off the side of a skyscraper, and even then you'll probably be using a shield gas on top of your flux core filler anyway.
>> No. 6686 ID: ae5623
File 141549457474.jpg - (156.75KB , 2048x1152 , 2013 Chassis - Complete.jpg )
6686
I'd recommend buying an Econotig setup if you're just a hobbyist. They go for maybe $1000 for the generator.

Need 240V, and a can of argon that'll probably last you anywhere between 2 months to year based on volume of work done, as well as grinders, electrodes, torches, etc.

TIG really is the way to go for hobby welding. Leave stick for people laying oil pipes, and MIG for people who can't master TIG. TIG gives you the strongest welds for the size/ weight, the most torch control for making art, and is generally the best. The only problem is the associated cost and skill requirement. That being said, I have no perception (eye condition) and still managed to learn well enough to make pic related.

I know it's expensive, but if you're serious about welding, it's the way to go. Crappy spark arc kits just don't work as advertised, and you'll make something either dangerous or shoddy as fuck.
>> No. 6687 ID: ae5623
>>6686
*depth perception
>> No. 6688 ID: a65216
I had a welding class today, and built this huge ass trebuchet, well not that huge, it's almost as tall as me though, more pics when its day and i can try shooting it.
>> No. 6689 ID: a65216
File 141552246810.jpg - (4.09MB , 3456x4608 , IMG_0028.jpg )
6689
>>6688
Didn't upload, idk why.
>> No. 6690 ID: e7d1c0
>>6688
>>6689
You've awakened my old forgotten dream of cobbling together a ballista using multiple truck suspension flat springs.
>> No. 6693 ID: 1bcc0d
>>6690
So I'm NOT the only one...I had the idea of using one of those to launch T-posts that had been "fletched" after a fashion, but I've never had the space to build one (or test it).
>> No. 6695 ID: 74cb27
>>6693
I was thinking more about getting three feet long bits of rebar up to supercar speeds.

And maybe heating them up first.

Also, a ballista like that would be only more awesome with a compound bow setup, like an oversized PSE TAC-15. Anti-tank ballista level shit.
>> No. 6698 ID: 1bcc0d
>>6695
I don't know how well a compound bow-style setup would handle the shock loads of the arms hitting the end of their travel. I could see it snapping pulleys rather easily, with non-hilarious results.
>> No. 6700 ID: 74cb27
>>6698
I was thinking about using a stout steel frame with car tire rubber bumpers to stop the truck leaf spring limbs.

My main concern was how strong the cable could possibly be. I don't see it lasting very long with all DAT POWAAAAAAAAAAH.
>> No. 6703 ID: 1bcc0d
>>6700
Designing a slight bit of slack into the cable when the arms are fully extended would help out a great deal.

As for how tough the cable would need to be, I suppose it would be a trade-off between the required flexibility and the load. I'd use a sectioned cable if it was my setup. Something like two threaded-end cables running between the nock and the bow itself, with a thinner cable making up the nock area, or perhaps a wholly mechanical linkage designed to handle the stress of the sear (to borrow a firearms term) and the bolt. That way, it's the shorter section that takes the tight bend, but there's never a point at which the bowstring "snaps" taut.
>> No. 6719 ID: 195903
>>6686
I plan on learning as much as possible so if that is a good method I'll probably try to learn it too. I've been thinking of making a PVC elbow with a marker in it to practice motion since I can make one with about the same size and dimensions as on my welder.

I'm going to switch my spool and figure out the gas setup as soon as I can, currently the garage is filled with instruments and its been in the 30s (F) and windy as fuck for a while so I have to wait. Anyone know where I can get some decent metal to practice on without killing my money?

>>6689
I remember the one my physics of weapons class had, the frame was about 8ft tall and made of wood. It worked for a while before finally kicking it due to uneven ground sliding the bar out of one side. Trebuchets can be a bit of a pain in the ass to first set up with the net and cord length but the results are nice.
>> No. 6720 ID: ddcf9f
>>6719
If you go to a junkyard you can pick up metal for scrap prices. scrap metal is just as good as new metal. You can also go to steelyards and buy metal from the cutoff bin which is much cheaper.
>> No. 7115 ID: 399bc9
File 142941412346.jpg - (1.42MB , 2448x2448 , IMG_00000287.jpg )
7115
Horizontal fillet with 6010.
>> No. 7116 ID: 399bc9
File 142941423397.jpg - (1.31MB , 2448x2448 , IMG_00000284.jpg )
7116
The good thing about doing this type of joint is that I can literally push the rod against the corner and do a relatively easy straight drag.
>> No. 7117 ID: 399bc9
File 142941459515.jpg - (1.26MB , 2448x2448 , IMG_00000285.jpg )
7117
Some undercut towards the end. Need to lower my angle a bit, which was why I set the clamp a little bit higher to begin with. I like using half a rod or at least one with the tip burnt, as I'm less likely to eff up my restarts than with a new rod, especially on a V-joint where I have an issue with fusing the edges on the other side, or if I already ground it out, building up too much on the ramp before the keyhole.
>> No. 7120 ID: a43ca7
jesus fuck this is terrible.
>> No. 7122 ID: de0bec
>>7120
You should see my welding attempts.
No you shouldn't. No one should.
>> No. 7123 ID: fb3bdd
>>7117
Either lower the current or speed up. Also, stop pausing. You want the entire weld to be as close to one smooth continuous movement as possible.
>> No. 7142 ID: 065fe2
>>7116 bead is too convex. not enough penetration.
>>7117 same thing, plus constancy issue.

i'm sorry, overall crap.
>> No. 7154 ID: 0b73d6
Play much pool? When you're pulling the torch, think about playing pool, about drawing the que back before you strike the que ball.

Smooth, even, and steady.
>> No. 7155 ID: 392726
always remember: a grinder and paint make me the welder I ain't.
>> No. 7156 ID: 3f8c1c
>>7123
>>7142
Thanks for the tips. I should've showed you guys my horizontal and vertical V's.

Next semester I'll see what kind of havoc I can wreak on mig and tig.
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