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Patches and Stickers for sale here

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6661 No. 6661 ID: c63ce2
I know Seraph and PvtCaboose have printers, and you should check out http://www.operatorchan.org/st/res/796.html if you haven't already.

I have recently joined the 3D printer owners fraternity after a couple of years of casual interest. I got a used perfectly well tuned and barely broken-in ORD Bot Hadron with EZ Struder, Mk V J Head and bucket full of filament and spare parts off of craigslist for, get this, $500. The guy was a retired computer coder and lived in the nicest neighborhood I'd ever seen but he and his wife were packing up to move to a smaller house since the kids were moved out. He just wanted it gone even at a loss.
I lucked out on the deal.

The ORD Bot is an open-source design built around with Makerslide with common M5 and M8 components. Instead of linear bearings, double-bearing Delrin rollers ride on the Makerslide rails. So far it's been rock-solid for me, as good as you could possibly expect modern aluminum extrusions and a solid metal frame to be.
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>> No. 6662 ID: c63ce2
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This is the printer as I received it with test print #2 being this rocket base holder. It has a knockoff Arduino Mega 2560 and RAMPS 1.4 board on the back, EZ-Struder and J-Head MkV hot end. Also included was an obsolete extruder and craptastic hot end he'd cheaped out on initially and grew to loathe, so he replaced them. Build volume is roughly 8x8x7 inches. It's on a heated bed with Pyrex glass clipped to it. He used a 12V 30A power supply to run the thing, and added digital meters to both outputs.
>> No. 6663 ID: c63ce2
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After a few days of figuring this all out stumbling through Google searches on how to use the thing and overcome my complete lack of coding and microcontroller knowledge, I decided it was time to build a ventilated box for the printer. It was warming up the room too much at night and I was planning on switching to the cheaper, stronger but smelly ABS plastic ASAP.

We start out with a frame made of SYP 2x2's, Gorilla Glue'd and screwed. Rough final dimensions for the project will put it at 26" deep X 22" wide X 20" tall.
>> No. 6664 ID: c63ce2
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A $10 sheet of 1/2" isocyanurate foam board makes up the outside panels. 1/4-20 T-nuts were inserted into the bottom corners to allow for leveling legs to be added. The panels are simply cut with a carpet knife, a bead of Gorilla Glue spread on the frame, and the insulation attached with drywall screws. Extra glue was placed inside as well to seal up any gaps from imperfections. The top was completed with a scrap sheet of 1/4" plywood on the inside, topped with insulation, and a scrap strip of tempered hardboard sandwiched it.

The scrap acrylic sheet I had was simply too brittle to cut with a jigsaw, circular saw or reciprocating saw so I gave up on it and cut to size a piece of 1/8" scrap plate glass. Old alder 1/4 cut-offs made up the window frame.
>nb4 scrap scrap scrap
I hang onto things, what can I say?
>> No. 6665 ID: c63ce2
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The frame was plunge-routered to fit the glass, glued, screwed and stapled for good measure. Old leftover putty tape made for a good seal. Note that the glass is in perfect condition; what appear to be scratches actually are in the table below.
>> No. 6666 ID: c63ce2
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Mind yall, I'm no fancy woodworker and don't claim to be. It's servicable.

All the wires were run through the top of the box so the computer could be outside and remain actively cooled. Following a little disassembly of my old computer case and testing of the power supply (still good!) I decided to use it as my new enclosure.

Of course, my plasma cutter crapped out and won't strike an arc. I settled for using tin snips. Whatever.
>> No. 6667 ID: c63ce2
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Ventilation is accomplished via a 120mm case fan and PLA printed adapter to 4" dryer hose.
>> No. 6668 ID: c63ce2
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This is exhausted through a 1-way dryer baffle screwed to a foam board cutout fitted to the window. Quick and easy to install and remove.
>> No. 6669 ID: c63ce2
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Filament feeds in from the top through a piece of vinyl tubing I already had. A couple of old door hinges, pair of cabinet latches to flex out the imperfections in my ability to make wooden frames level, a 50 cent knob and roll of soft foam weatherstripping seal her up pretty tight. All the edges were sloppily duct taped with the good stuff.
>> No. 6670 ID: 7ebf68
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Thoughts on this manufacturer or is it better to build my own?


Also, do you have a decent guide to getting started?
>> No. 6671 ID: c63ce2
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I've got the discounted-due-to-unpopularity yellow ABS printing pretty good but this was my first attempt with black ABS. I was running it a little too hot it seems.

The front door on the tower slides up to hide the power meters and now I've made a shade to cover up the LCD panel for overnight prints. The fucker is bright.

Upgrades on the short list include a proper mounting bracket for the control board with integrated 90mm case fan blowing on it, better filament feeder system, LED strip lights for the inside and possibly a fancier extruder and hot end arrangement. Maybe even 2 of them.
>> No. 6672 ID: c63ce2
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Oh, and when I said
>bucket full of filament and spare parts
I meant I damned near have enough to build another printer. End stops, nuts, bolts and screws, high-temp wires, thermistors, 5 spare giant resistor/heating elements for the J-Head, more spare belt than is currently on the printer, bearings, pulleys, fans, a heat bed, it goes on.

Here's the deal: I still haven't found a beginners guide that I could have understood without ever seeing one of these printers in person, at least in my price range. This printer, built yourself from components, will run you around about $600 if you're cheap as hell like I am and know how to source stuff directly from China, like with Fasttech and AliExpress. That said, the design is perfectly modular: just use longer pieces of Makerslide from https://www.inventables.com/ . It's also plenty sturdy and repeatable. Logically, I'd assume it's stronger and better than the laser cut playwood stuff out there like Printrbot.

You could build a printer comparable to that $2200 LulzBot TAZ 4 for far less than half that. I would say, get something smallish and cheap first and use it until you understand the concepts and practices, then build a better one on the cheap.
>> No. 6673 ID: c63ce2
I forgot to say, even better, buy used. Buy one that some nerd got a year ago to make Yoda heads and dildos with, did all the tinkering and tuning for you, and save yourself a lot of headaches. I fully endorse the ORD Bot Hadron frame and my components. They work flawlessly for me. Your mileage my vary. All I had to do was build a box, reorganize some wires (that asshole was addicted to zip ties) and level the bed.

Forget PLA. It's brittle, you can't really smooth it easily, it delaminates like a motherfucker, and it's more expensive. It's hippy plastic and should stay in their domain. ABS is the way to go. You have to deal with the higher temps, a heated bed and build area and the smell, but it's stronger, cheaper, more flexible, can be glued with acetone and smoothed out in an acetone vapor bath to make it look as good as injection-molded.

I'm working on an acetone vapor can, either to be made out of a 5 gal kerosene can (I pulled half a dozen out of a dumpster last spring) or a Christmas popcorn tin.
>> No. 6674 ID: 044d24
Nice work Dander. Much more ghetto rigged than my printer. Some suggestions and comments from someone who has been printing way too often:

-Spare parts. My machine is so out of support I have to make my own stuff. I have an extra heated build plate when my current one (which has been replaced once) decides to ignite again. Your fan life will be crap because of ABS fumes.

-Save your old prints for ABS slurry. Acetone + ABS = awesome glue. I even use this on my glass build plate.

-A vaporization chamber is something I have been doing as well. Easy way to do it with effective results is coffee can for small prints with 1/16" hole in the top, or giant popcorn tin like you suggested. Just don't touch the prints after they come out for a least a day. They look pretty but they will be weak for a bit, then pretty and strong! Small fan inside helped but is honestly unneeded. Get a veggie steamer, put in bottom on popcorn tin, put acetone below it, done.

-Heat shrink is bad. Put heat shrink inside the chamber, bad results. Mainly smoke. Have started using kapton everywhere.

-Buy spare belts. Make belt tighteners.

-Lube everyone 100 hours. PTFE Super Lube is what I use.

-Clean up those wires. I know they snag. Trust me, already replaced 2 fans on the extruders and guess what, somehow wires snag in prints. I actually printed over a wire and then the print came of the build plate cause the extruder pulled it up.

-Filament color does affect temperature, you are correct. I have been using Octave ABS and found that black is more precise than white at 230c. White becomes more precise at 220-225c-ish. Bonding is something that is not great at the lower temperatures but for unimportant stuff, I stick to the lowest I can. I recommend these calibration prints:


Really check your wall thickness. When I was new I never did. Just check it. Get it to the perfect width. For the bonding one, for sure figure out your best balance of temp vs. accuracy.

I'll probably pop in here because you seem to be pretty decent at this already.

Last tip: I see you like glass plates! What hair spray do you use? The best I found was Tresume Tres Two Spray extra hold. I then use q-tips to spread about the plate till no longer wet.
>> No. 6675 ID: cd4a7e
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VERY relevant to this thread:

The cartridge contains the expanding gas now instead of a printed barrel.
>> No. 6676 ID: cd4a7e
Oh! Also the coolest thing is the spent casing ejects itself. Semi auto 3d printed firearms soon fellow STALKERS!
>> No. 6677 ID: fb20ae
The guy I bought it from threw in half a can of Aquanet Extra Super Hold. It's a water-soluble polymer and works like a charm. I'm still working through the first partial can and picked up 4 more for like $6 at Walmart. Cleanup means soaking the glass in the sink for a few minutes and wiping it off. It also means delicate parts can be unstuck without ANY trouble.

If this was a linear bearing/shaft system I'd be slathering on the grease but look a little closer. This whole setup runs ball bearings inside Delrin rollers on rails. There's so little that can bind or go wrong and no way to repack these tiny bearings. That combined with the fact none of them ever carry much of a load and it's all open source means I shouldn't have part problems.

>wall thickness
I constantly change my Slic3r settings to fit my current project. It's pretty damned easy via Repetier. If anything I'm far too distrustful of plastic strength and make things wastefully strong.

Have you ever tried filling voids with hot glue? Hot glue sticks are cheap as fuck and some people are having a lot of success with injections at only 10% printer fill.
>> No. 6678 ID: 044d24

Never filled the voids of hollow prints with hot glue. Pretty decent idea.

I have never cleaned that glass build plate. I have a thin layer of ABS on it that means things have trouble coming off, which is the way I like it. That way I can print extremely large objects. I tried the bare glass + hairspray and could never get decent results for large builds. If I need accuracy I swap glass plates to one without that ABS layer on it.

Tried the Aquanet hair spray cause of cheapness, never worked amazing for me. Too wet. Not enough stickiness. Might give it another shot because I have an almost full can.
>> No. 6679 ID: 72eee7
That is a horrible idea, but it worked so that's cool, I question how legal it is, I'm not sure if that counts as an AOW or as a muzzle loader with interchangeable barrels...
>> No. 6680 ID: db7b1c
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>half assing it
come on goddamn it contain the gas and make it silent
>> No. 6681 ID: db7b1c
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>> No. 6682 ID: db7b1c
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>> No. 6683 ID: 4d0f7d
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>I'm not sure if that counts as an AOW
If you go to the guy's website you'll see it actually has a rifled barrel, hilariously short albeit but it's there.
>> No. 6684 ID: 044d24

Maybe I missed it, but where is the metal permanently attached to the firearm that is required by the undetectable firearms act (if this is indeed a firearm)?
>> No. 6685 ID: 4d0f7d
That would seem an excellent question. Looking at the act itself though I think he might still be alright, it doesn't say anything about "metal permanently attached", just that it has to be detectable by modern standards. I think the use of steel bolts and AR FCG parts likely makes this thing detectable enough to be legal. http://www.gpo.gov/fdsys/pkg/STATUTE-102/pdf/STATUTE-102-Pg3816.pdf
>> No. 6699 ID: 5edda4
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My first published file, built yesterday:
>> No. 6722 ID: 5edda4
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This is what happens when it's cold outside and I spend time figuring out Autodesk Inventor.

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