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Patches and Stickers for sale here

File 142160878666.jpg - (2.78MB , 1780x3144 , Warded rim lock with bit key.jpg )
6960 No. 6960 ID: 0a2b37
Before pin-tumbler locks became commonplace most structures were secured using warded locks. Many old houses still use warded locks, there are two basic types:
Mortise locks which fit inside the door and door frame are mostly encountered on exterior doors as they offer greater security against forced entry by being part of the door structure.
Rim locks Mount onto the door and door frame using screws and thus are not as secure but are also much simpler to install, making them practical for interior doors where the lock is used simply for privacy rather than security.
I don't generally recommend the use of a warded lock to secure an exterior door, while it might befuddle the burgler armed with bump keys to attack a pin-tumbler lock the deadbolts are usually too short and the strike plates too weak to resist forced entry very long.(Though the same can be said of most common pin-tumbler locks as well.)
But for interior doors where privacy is the primary concern a warded rim lock is quite adequate. If you find yourself living in an old house you might just get stuck with them either from lack of finances to replace them or because a landlord simply can't be bothered with such a triviality. So lets go over the basics of their operation:
Expand all images
>> No. 6961 ID: 0a2b37
File 14216101306.jpg - (1.28MB , 2116x1332 , IMG_0792.jpg )
To get at a warded lock you will first need to remove the door knobs and spindle. This is usually just a matter of removing the setscrew from one of the knobs and then pulling the spindle out by the other knob.
On a Mortise lock you will then have to remove the door plates, usually there is two screws per plate, you may then have to pry them free if they've been painted over. You will then have to unscrew the lock mechanism from the door and usually it too will have to be pried free from the door then. You can insert a screwdriver through the spindle hole and wiggle it loose.

Rim locks are usually held in place by three or four screws and may also be stuck on by paint. Resist the urge to hit it with something to break it free, lock casings are often quite brittle and will crack or shatter.
There will then usually be a screw securing the case, which may be painted over or stuck with rust. remove this and the cover plate and you can get at the guts.
The insides are often going to be pretty nasty with rust and crud. But most of the parts are large and solidly constructed so even if it's rusted up solid so long as nothing is broken or missing it can usually be bought back to functioning condition with a little PB blaster and grease.

It's probably going to look something like this rim lock. The layout probably won't be exactly the same but we'll go over the major parts in the proceeding pics.
>> No. 6962 ID: 0a2b37
File 142161234675.jpg - (601.37KB , 1788x1500 , IMG_0797.jpg )
The major parts are as follows:

A: Is your latch bolt. it simply holds the door shut and is spring-loaded so that it retracts into the casing when it hits the strike plate. It is reversible for inward or outward swinging doors.

B: Is your deadbolt, it is extended and retracted with the key. Which may be done from the inside or the outside.

C: Is your spindle hub it is what the knob spindle passes through, it has two levers to interface with the latch bolt and will need to be flipped around if you reverse the latch bolt.

D: is your lever tumbler, it latches your deadbolt into the open or shut position. When you insert and turn the key it pushes the lever tumbler up and out of the way and then either pushes the deadbolt out or pulls it back.

E: Is your interior latch lock. This will not generally be present on mortise locks, it is your privacy lock on the rim lock, it simple blocks the latch bolt and prevents the knob from being turned on the outside. If you have small children you may wish to tape over or remove these so they don't lock themselves into bathrooms, bedrooms or closets as there's no way to disengage them from the outside.

Next we'll look at the parts in greater detail.
>> No. 6963 ID: 0a2b37
File 142161339282.jpg - (1.13MB , 1396x1544 , IMG_0779.jpg )
The part that needs replacing most often is the latch bolt spring. It is usually a flat spring and thus a replacement can easily be manufactured from a windshield wiper blade spring with nothing more complex than multitool.

Take note of the old spring's position and remove it. Now take note of any bends in the spring and it's length. Precise measurements aren't necessary, simply eye-balling it will do, just don't cut your replacement spring too short. Cut your replacement spring and make any bends. Install the replacement and check fit, adjust as necessary. this and a bit of grease is generally all a non-abused warded lock requires for maintenance. Should now be fit for another 50 years of service at least.

The interior latch lock spring may be replaced in exactly the same manner if necessary.
>> No. 6964 ID: 0a2b37
File 142161371272.jpg - (1.51MB , 2104x1368 , IMG_0769.jpg )
Now we take a closer look at the latch bolt, spindle hub and Interior latch lock.

As pictured the latch bolt and spindle hub are set up for a left-handed, outward-opening door or a right-handed, inward-opening door. To reverse them it's simply a matter of lifting them out and flipping them over.
>> No. 6965 ID: 0a2b37
File 142161378689.jpg - (1.17MB , 2036x1068 , IMG_0780.jpg )
This is what they look like in the reversed position.
>> No. 6966 ID: 0a2b37
File 142161422889.jpg - (1.17MB , 1904x1112 , IMG_0772.jpg )
Here we see the interior latch lock in the unlocked position.

Here it is in the locked position. Simplicity itself. If you wished to remove it it's simply a matter of pulling out the flat spring and lifting it off it's pivot. If you don't intend to put them back immediately drop them in an envelope, label it(Like: Upstairs bathroom lock latch.) and put it somewhere you won't lose it.
>> No. 6967 ID: 0a2b37
File 142161518685.jpg - (1.06MB , 2108x980 , IMG_0787.jpg )
Now we'll take a look at the deadbolt and lever tumbler assembly.

Here it is in the locked position, notice how the projections on the deadbolt interface with those of the lever tumbler and the case, preventing it from going any further forward or backward. Just behind these is the notch were the bit of the key will interface to move the deadbolt forward or back.

To do this the key first has to pass the wards in the case and/or on the case cover on either side of the keyhole. A regular bit key will have only narrow cuts meant only to work with it's particular lock. A skeleton key will have wide cuts meant to bypass the majority of wards. The key may also have tumbler cuts to interface with warded projections on the tumbler. This particular lock only has wards on the case cover, pictured bottom right.
>> No. 6968 ID: 0a2b37
File 142161579777.jpg - (1.18MB , 1752x1276 , IMG_0789.jpg )
Here we have removed the deadbolt to expose the lever tumbler. As you can see it held in place by a pivot post, a stop and it's spring. If the spring is worn, broken or rusted you should be able to find a generic replacement at the local hardware store. When you go to remove the tumbler be sure not to let the spring go rocketing off across the room. They're not usually under much tension so that shouldn't happen, but it pays to be cautious.
>> No. 6969 ID: 0a2b37
File 142161786529.jpg - (164.60KB , 1080x810 , IMG_0768.jpg )
Here we see how the key interfaces with the wards. Or rather how it doesn't. You can buy a set of generic skeleton keys at most hardware stores and those will open most warded locks OK, you can hire a locksmith to impression a blank to fit your lock specifically or you can save some money by doing yourself.

Many old locks don't have brand markings and you'll probably have to find a key on Ebay, where most of the seller aren't locksmiths so you'll have to measure by eyeball. You can either look for a blank key or more likely you'll have to pick one that looks like it should fit or is close to fitting.

To impression a key you'll need a small flat file, a candle, a vice and of course the key and the lock. First you stick the bit of the key over the candle flame to black it with soot. Then you insert it into the keyhole, turn it clockwise and counter-clockwise and wiggle it up and down, back and forth so that the wards rub the soot off where they hit the bit. Then you clamp the key in your vice and apply the file where the soot has been removed, remove the metal to clear the wards. Reapply the soot and fit the lock again as necessary until the key works. removing more metal than necessary won't hurt unless you remove enough to compromise the key.

That about does it for now unless anybody has questions, I intend to polish this up a bit, acquire more pictures and make it into a PDF.
>> No. 6985 ID: e880db
>> No. 6990 ID: cd49aa
Thanks for the info, man. I don't have much experience with warded locks. Except for what Master Lock tries to pass off as warded locks nowadays with their cheap padlocks.
>> No. 6991 ID: ddcf9f
>went to a meeting
>making locks
>see this thread
Fuckin' surreal man
>> No. 6992 ID: 06f96c
Thanks a bunch Ulfhunden.

I have a bunch of these in my house, now I can get keys and get them working again.
>> No. 6999 ID: 0a2b37

Glad to be of service gentlemen, I woke up feeling the motivation to do something that day and that's what I decided on. If you have any questions shoot them my way, This thread is just a rough draft.


They are warded locks, They just also happen to be Master locks, it's like being born with downs syndrome, they can't help it. Warded Master locks are useful because they're highly weather-resistant and super-cheap, perfectly adequate for keeping kids out of your garden shed and if you lose your key and have to use the bolt cutters you're not going weep over the loss.
The quality of the lock should match the quality of your overall-security. No point in putting a high-quality lock into a flimsy door or vice-versa. Extremely high-security can be counter-productive too. Recently my lady-friend bought an electronic pistol safe, it was push-button only, having no redundant means to open it which was touted as a safety feature, but then her teen daughter shut the thing with her pistol and ammo in it before she had a chance to program the code. I told her if Customer service can't help her then she can work a hammer and pry-bar as well as I can. I haven't heard about it since so I assume the issue has been resolved one way or the other.
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