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Patches and Stickers for sale here

File 145686585625.jpg - (1.67MB , 2592x1944 , KIMG0233.jpg )
19982 No. 19982 ID: a70f76
Celebrating /v/ surviving the revamp, let's talk about the latest repair/replacement/upgrade/any maintenance whatsoever we've had to perform on our vehicles.

On my way to work this morning, my rear end slumped out of nowhere, no apparent cause. I thought I had a flat initially, but started to realize that it was my shocks after experiencing no handling issues.

Limped into work, looked at it for a few minutes, had to clock in, then 2 hours later during my 15 minute break, I pulled the side panels off and discovered this. Apparently the retaining washer broke and the shock came off the bushing and was wedged between the exhausted and the frame.

Thank God, it's an easy fix and I work in a shop, plenty of tools at my disposal. Loosened the exhaust, freed the shock, realigned it and stole a washer from the Grainger box to reattach it and even reinforced it.

I spent that two hours stressing about the possibilities, thinking I was going to be spending more money or missing work.
Expand all images
>> No. 19983 ID: a70f76
File 145686603896.jpg - (2.36MB , 2592x1944 , KIMG0231.jpg )
Next up, I need to find a manifold to replace this one with a crack. Getting a little too much air.

Not critical at the moment, it's giving me enough time to track down the part. Which is actually not easy.
>> No. 20003 ID: 25c659
Kinda is critical. That right there is a dirt hole.

Slap some silicone on there, that'll seal it until you can replace it.
>> No. 20006 ID: f11fa6
I put some tape on it for now. I'll do some silicone soon.
>> No. 20007 ID: 25c659
As long as it isn't sucking shit in.

Also it's a good thing that isn't on the engine side of the carb. Poor girl wouldn't even want to run if that were the case.
You might want to inspect that one as well. Unless it's not a rubber pipe that goes between the head and carb. But... shit, trying to think here lol

Yeah, pretty much every bike/quad/etc I've seen has a hose there.
>> No. 20008 ID: 79b400
That actually is the part connected to the engine. The other side is connected to the air box.
>> No. 20216 ID: c4277d
File 145835007774.jpg - (2.29MB , 4096x3072 , P_20160318_171846.jpg )
Don't know if this counts as a repair, or what, but I finally got those Taiwanese anodized aluminum valve stems for the wheels I'm refurbishing for my 300ZX. I don't thing they look bad at all, now I just need to get some tires on them, and put them on the car!
>> No. 20283 ID: 4a5d41
File 145913672077.jpg - (1.11MB , 2592x1944 , IMG_20160327_161040[1].jpg )
This is most of a Chrysler 225.

Need to have the crank reground and then I can get a rering kit for it. Whee.

Once that happens, the [IHC] family will have a '72 Dart (Or is it a Valiant?) running around.

Oh, and there's rear struts for my Tercel in there too since one is completely blown the fuck out. I'd been hunting a noise coming from the rear axle for like a week, checking the preload on the bearings, inspecting all the bushings, etc. Then when I was taking the wheel off to poke around in the brake drum (Making sure there wasn't a rock or something rolling around in there) I lifted the axle. There was very little resistance, it was just flopping around.

Yeah, I'm fucking smart. I let that strut kick my ass for a week. But, ayy, everything else on the rear axle is in great shape!

Tercel still best car
>> No. 20284 ID: 4a5d41
File 145913861019.jpg - (827.09KB , 2304x1728 , HPIM39_JPG.jpg )
Definitely a Valiant. Same front end as this one, but 4-door, yellow, and in slightly better shape.

It's a fuckin' driver.
>> No. 20285 ID: c4277d
Awesome, I want one, but with a 340, in red, or orange, and with Demon badges..
I want a '71 Dodge Demon.
>> No. 20318 ID: 79b400
Identified an issue I've been having with the starter, so I'm ordering a new starter clutch when I get home from work tonight. That should fix it.

Also got a bunch of Chilton manuals for various cars for a couple bucks from a used book store. Owner was sick of them accumulating.

Meh, any mods, work, etc.

If you're turning a wrench or screwdriver, post it here. I'm just curious what you guys are up to mechanically.
>> No. 20453 ID: 79b400
FINALLY my new starter clutch has shipped. Should be here by the 16th.

My current one has been messing up. It starts fine with cold starts, but after I've been running it, the metal expands and it doesn't want to move, so I have to wait until it cools down to start it. Or just keep trying for 15 minutes if I'm in a hurry.

New clutch should fix it.
>> No. 20456 ID: 79b400
Sweet, it finally arrived. And I have a day off tomorrow, so I'll will be working to get it installed.

Bigger and heavier than I expected, I thought the part would be much smaller.
>> No. 20476 ID: c4277d
File 146095314878.jpg - (393.26KB , 2048x1536 , 13054770_10153695975453867_1718255958_o.jpg )
Did a bunch of suspension work over the week after work, and this weekend. Got all new struts, springs, and poly urethane sway bar end links on the rear of my '88 300ZX. Dug into the front, and found out I need more parts. I have the wrong sway bar end links for the front, and I need new ball joints, and tie rod ends. That said, I can't actually find stock replacement front springs for my Z, but I did change the drivers side strut and top mount while I was in there. Test fit the refurbished wheels, because I'm an adult who could wait until I had the tires, but didn't want to. Haha
>> No. 20571 ID: 4f3968
I go to leave for work, my scooter won't start. Like, not even trying, no power going to the starter. Check battery, is good. Check fuse, it's good. A short? Take off all the panels, start tracing the wires. Find no damage, no evidence of a short. Well, shit, looks like I'm calling out of work and calling a scooter guy with money I don't have.

Start putting all the panels back on, get to the panels on the handlebars and notice something askew. The engine stop switch is in the on position. Flip that, engine starts.

I feel stupid for not checking the obvious first.
>> No. 20579 ID: 79b400
Okay, new starter clutch is installed. I can do more than commute now. :)

Also finally got a hold of the right place to get OEM parts, so I'm going to be replacing my manifold when I can afford it.
>> No. 20627 ID: 79b400
Not mechanical, but it involed wrench turning and swearing here and there.

I finally replaced my mirrors, now they're 100% and easily adjustable.
>> No. 20629 ID: 634497
File 14638672768.jpg - (35.84KB , 554x527 , feels_rage.jpg )

Haha, I've done shit like that. Image related.
>> No. 20630 ID: 0fa6d7
>The engine stop switch is in the on position. Flip that, engine starts.
>I feel stupid for not checking the obvious first.

Clearly, you don't have biker friends.
It's like standard fucking behavior to flip someone else's killswitch when parked. Fucking assholes.
>> No. 20635 ID: 634497

Or at stoplights, which is embarrassing as hell when the signal goes green and you didn't notice your bike was powered down because your ass was already numb and there's a shitton of louder bikes all around you.

Worse still, though, is that I've heard of dudes doing it to each other while underway. Now that's a dick move.
>> No. 20636 ID: 2999b0
The sad part is I do, I should know better. That's why I felt stupid.
>> No. 20638 ID: 0fa6d7
>Worse still, though, is that I've heard of dudes doing it to each other while underway. Now that's a dick move.

Meh, had it done to me on a straight. It's easy as fuck to rectify.
Just flip switch, clutch, start, make sure you're in the right gear & apply gas as you unclutch.

Another typical thing with my friends is them enabling my heated grips... On a summer day, it takes a while before you notice & then your grips will be hot for a good while. Assholes. :)
>> No. 20652 ID: f87148

Yeah, I can see that, but I can also imagine it potentially being dangerous as fuck at high speeds, especially if the rider is inexperienced, or gets flustered or distracted by the reboot at the wrong moment.

>heated grips

Duuude, BMW grips get hotter than Satan's gooty hole on the second setting.
>> No. 20653 ID: 0fa6d7
>Duuude, BMW grips get hotter than Satan's gooty hole on the second setting.

Worst I've driven through was 50km at -13°C. Even with heated grips, that was totally unpleasant. The contrast between the cold top of your hand and the warm palm due to the heated grips is just too high.
Never again.
>> No. 20654 ID: f87148

I've seen winter riding gloves specifically designed to work with heated grips once or twice -- loads of insulation on the outsides, not so much on the palms. Have you tried those, by any chance? Because I'm definitely considering picking up a pair for those February commutes to and from school.
>> No. 20655 ID: 0fa6d7

What you'd need are the electrical gloves. Works like heated grips, but all around instead of only the palms.
Problem is they either have batteries or wires to feed them off the bike's power supply.

Meh, I just stopped riding below -5°C.
>> No. 20656 ID: f87148

>electric leashes

Eh, I think I'll stick with the ordinary sort ^_^
We don't often see anything much lower than the 0 to -5 range anyways; it might occasionally drop to -10, but that's a fairly rare event apart from weather events during which I would be loathe to ride anyways.
>> No. 20677 ID: f45d9f
My fucking dad.

So, the Valiant (Dart? Dartiant.) has a scored crankshaft. Apparently it was run without oil pressure for a couple minutes. Not bad enough to spin a bearing, but bad enough I can't just slap new bearings in and call it a day.

So, naturally, the first thing he asks is, "Can't you just slap new bearings in and call it a day?"

No, Senior, I cannot. Look how draggy this penny is on the ridges. If it leaves copper it's not usable. It's leaving zinc.

So, the next thing, I take some initiative and find a place in Phoenix that'll grind the journals for $200. This was several months ago.

His answer? "Can't the NAPA in [nearby town] do it for cheaper?"

No, Senior, they cannot. I've been in their shop, seen their equipment. They have a bridgeport and a 4-hole engine honing machine that I'm mad jelly of, but no grinding equipment.

So, he gets this idea of putting a forged crankshaft in. The engine is an '82, and the forged units were only made until '76.

No, Senior, that will not work. The journals are different widths, you'd need a different block and conrods.

So, he steals my mom's phone and finds a company in Texas that'll outright sell reconditioned cranks. Forged crankshaft, ~$249.99.

No Senior, we already had this fucking discussion.

So, again I take to the internet, specifically Valiant forums. And I show him the posts, a forged crank has to go in a block made for it, and a cast crank has to go in a block made for the cast crank.

Now he believes me. The Internet is always right, I guess?

And then I go on that Texas companies website. They sell cast crankshafts for ~$229.99 (plus $61 shipping lel)

Look, Senior, the cast crank is cheaper than the forged!

And grinding the one we have is cheaper still. And if he gave me the funds I would have gladly driven it up there, and we'd have a driving Dartiant by now. Nope. Buying one from Texas because it's "faster".

Jesus tittyfucking christ. I need a beer.
>> No. 20708 ID: 79b400
Fuck me sideways. Something, couldn't identify what, broke on my scooter on my way to work.

It suddenly bogged down in power and I heard a loud rattling. Speedometer said I was doing 65, I was barely making it past 25mph. I don't know what it is, I can't identify the rattling.

I have an idea, but I just don't know these centrifugal clutches well enough.

I am currently home, my scooter is at work. It's like Sunday and Monday is the weekend for most motorcycle/scooter shops, because they're all closed those two days. Except for one, they fixed my manager's bike and did quite a bit for just $175. I'm calling them when they open, see if I can schedule a pick up for when I arrive at work tomorrow and figure out what's wrong and how much it's going to cost me. Landlord is going to be upset.
>> No. 20713 ID: f87148

Sounds like your CVT shit itself, but I don't know enough about the damn things to be any more specific (or helpful, for that matter). Probably the second most expensive major assembly on the bird if it turns out that you have to replace it outright, but it won't be nearly as bad as a functionally equivalent failure on a car.
>> No. 20720 ID: 79b400
Either that or the oil pump.

I'm finding out tomorrow. I told the mechanic to watch out for bits of raccoon fur. I cleaned it the best I could, but I'm still finding tufts of fur in little nooks of the center stand when I move it around. The bottom of the scooter sliced that little guy up good.

First animal I've ever hit, scared the shit out of me.
>> No. 20724 ID: 2a7fd5
A spring fell out. Or a key sheared.

I take it the speedo drives off the rear wheel?
>> No. 20740 ID: 818111
Most bikes, it's off the front.
>> No. 21031 ID: 79b400
The cause is infuriating. I'm beyond pissed.

Remember the starter clutch I had replaced? Well, the idiots at the shop had to drain my oil to get to it, but THEY NEVER REPLACED THE OIL.

I've been running it for an entire month, 50 miles a day, WITH NO FUCKING OIL. And it wasn't even giving me any noticeable indicators that something was wrong.

So, the guy has to tear apart the entire engine to look for any problems that would occur from riding it an entire month with no oil.

I'm never going back to that shop again. Bright side is this new shop I'm going to is a bit cheaper and a lot more knowledgeable. That said, this isn't going to be an inexpensive repair and I don't know how I'm going to afford it.
>> No. 21032 ID: 4620f2
That's what I thought, but who knows with Caseless' speedo indicating 65 at 25 actual.

Jesus fucking christ! I'm surprised it made it that long. Sounds like it's time to go raise hell at the shit shop.
Also damn, dude, don't you ever check your oil?
>> No. 21033 ID: 79b400
I replaced it a week before I went into the shop.

I saw a big jug of 10w-30 right next to my scooter when I had the starter clutch replaced, fucking faggot straight up told me "yeah, I replaced the oil, you're good to go."

I normally do it every month and a half or two months depending on how much I've been riding, usually between 2000 and 3000 miles. In fact, the most ironic part of all of this shit was the very first thought I had when leaving my street that day was "I should pick up a quart on my way home and change it in the morning." Not even kidding.

Also, I'm not raising hell. It won't do me any good, they won't give me my money back and taking them to court would just cost me more than I spent. My plan is simple, tell anyone who's looking for a scooter shop to avoid them like the plague and cite my experience.

I mean, I am going to talk to them and see if they offer any compensation, but I don't expect anything.
>> No. 21035 ID: 79b400
I called the mechanic the moment I woke up. Damage may not be as bad as initially believed.

Said something along the lines of "I've been playing with it everything, starts up and runs just fine, it's just making that godawful noise which could either be the valves needing adjusting or the timing belt."

If it's one of those two or both, that's so much better than I was expecting. I'm thinking it's the belt, because I heard/felt a snap when the incident happened.

Which was terrifying, because I was being tailgated at the time and there was a sudden drop of acceleration.
>> No. 21036 ID: f87148
File 146662246773.jpg - (62.89KB , 600x500 , deebly_goncerned.jpg )

Dude, if they permafucked your girl through their own negligence or stupidity, they're legally liable for it. And while I'm not an attorney, it's my understanding that a victorious plaintiff can usually get legal expenses paid by the defendant.
>> No. 21037 ID: 79b400
That's true and that's the course I'd take if it's permafucked.

However, if a repair is all it takes, I'll take the hit and eat ramen for a few months.

That said, I have several other things to address as soon as I can afford it. Brakes are starting to show signs of wear, it's a good time to replace those. They're still good, they've lasted me past 10k miles because I usually just engine brake and save the actual brakes for when I'm nearing a stop. It's a really efficient way to stop with a centrifugal clutch.

Before the brakes, though, my rear tire needs to be replaced, it's balding. Those Taiwanese tires are cheap as fuck at $30, but they only last like 3000 miles. I'm thinking about investing in Michellin tires, they're about $100 a pop, but they last about 10,000 miles. Either way, I'm getting about 1000 miles per $10, I'd just have to change them less with Michellins.
>> No. 21038 ID: f87148

>However, if a repair is all it takes, I'll take the hit and eat ramen for a few months.

Don't, dude. Don't let people take from you and just lick your wounds. You're better than that; you're a goddamn predator. Don't allow yourself to be treated like prey by inferior humans.

If those repairs, whatever they may end up being, cost more than, say, $100, you should immediately take action against those responsible. Document everything, threaten legal action, and if they do not immediately comply, find an attorney and take back what's yours.

Sometimes going along to get along is, in fact, the wisest course, but only when you're benefiting from the arrangement. This is not one of those times.
>> No. 21039 ID: 79b400
It'd honestly go nowhere. There's no way I can prove in court that it was a result of them just forgetting. I know better, there's definitely no leak. I park on bright concrete most of the time, I'd notice something eventually. Every thing is clean on the inside, nothing where it shouldn't be. I actually clean inside it quite a bit.

I think steering business away them from is a better option in the long run. Their reviews are just getting worse on Google and I believe my story trumps their various complaints.
>> No. 21044 ID: d0d811
Problem was the cam chain came out of alignment. Slightly stretched, but it will run reliably until I can replace it.

They set aside everything the previous mechanics did wrong to show me what they had to do. It was infuriating.
>> No. 21047 ID: 79b400
Okay, amend that. It will not run reliably, currently will not start. Now I need to come up with $350.
>> No. 21048 ID: 9ea451
File 146715900917.jpg - (111.38KB , 1140x488 , Burning-Money-cropped.jpg )
>> No. 21049 ID: 79b400
Amend that amendment. It will now cost me $450 because of it needing a few other parts.

My luck is great.
>> No. 21280 ID: 7e827c
File 14738257108.jpg - (4.53MB , 5312x2988 , 20160913_194449.jpg )
So this is what the spider gears in the Bronco look like after 152,000 miles and suspected teenaged burnouts.
>> No. 21281 ID: 758291
File 14739944772.jpg - (1.86MB , 1944x2592 , KIMG0500.jpg )
Here's what a blown piston from an XC125 looks like.
>> No. 21282 ID: 758291
File 147399450593.jpg - (1.56MB , 1944x2592 , KIMG0501.jpg )
>> No. 21283 ID: 758291
File 147399453272.jpg - (1.68MB , 1944x2592 , KIMG0502.jpg )
>> No. 21315 ID: 7e827c
File 147528032614.jpg - (3.92MB , 5312x2988 , 20160923_183328.jpg )
Subtle packaging for my new diff carrier.
>> No. 21316 ID: 7e827c
File 147528040523.jpg - (4.48MB , 5312x2988 , 20160924_173429.jpg )
I had to paint the cover in my signature wrinkle black.
>> No. 21317 ID: 7e827c
File 147528062838.jpg - (3.43MB , 5312x2988 , 20160924_174638.jpg )
And this truly EXCELLENT design feature. It's a downward-facing, solid steel spike on the bottom of the frame rail, right where you slide under to work on anything on the back half of the rig. You have to keep it in mind at all times, lest you shove it through your kneecap on accident.

It is riveted through the frame rail, attached to nothing. Must be an artifact from the assembly line.
>> No. 21319 ID: fb3bdd
You've got an angle grinder right?
>> No. 21401 ID: cad48c
Exactly my thought. Zip disc for the bulk, grind the remainder.

When in doubt, dike it out.
>> No. 21402 ID: fb45a0
Milwuakee recently introduced a reciprocating saw blade with carbide teeth inserts, I used one of those instead. Cut like butter.
>> No. 21428 ID: 65fc43
alright so this has been slightly urking me

Why go with hex driver button heads over traditional bolts?

I just see the possibility for more "mistakes" if you ever have to take the cover off.
>> No. 21430 ID: fb3bdd
Easier for robutts to put together.
>> No. 21431 ID: 471393
There's really only one reason to go with Allen head screws: space requirements.

Compare the diameter of the heads on a 6mm Allen vs a 6mm hex.


tl;dr allen screws bad unless they're really REALLY needed.
>> No. 21433 ID: 471393
File 147966767221.jpg - (2.15MB , 3264x2448 , 20161117_132522[1].jpg )
Huh. Wonder why no trip.

Ah, well. VW in question. This here's the shifter linkage on that retarded machine. Which needed to be removed to get the steering box changed.
>> No. 21435 ID: 7e827c
Several reasons.
1)They look nicer and provide a nice contrast to the wrinkle black.
2)We have a shit-ton of them, we buy them in bulk.
3)I wanted to.
>> No. 21436 ID: 7e827c
Not all of us have the hate-on against allen heads that you do.
>> No. 21437 ID: 0de47d
I don't mind them, as long as they're kept clean. But once they're packed with 30 years worth of oil and grease it's game over. Now IHC wants to punch babies, rape old people and take up smoking again.
>> No. 21443 ID: 7e827c
They aren't that damn hard to clean out.
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