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Patches and Stickers for sale here



File 14594775809.jpg - (4.51MB , 5312x2988 , 20160329_181348.jpg )
20295 No. 20295 ID: 1a91fc
Note to self.

Next time someone pulls out from a stop sign in a little econo shit box just t-bone him in the driverside door and kill the motherfucker.

Police report says that I wasn't at fault so my rates ain't going up but I'm still out the deductible for the repair. USAA basically said don't hold my breath about the other guy's insurance paying for the repair even though I have a witness and a police report saying he was at fault since I managed not to hit him (damage is from a post when I went off the road).

Happened in front of the Radford Auto Auction (which isn't actually in Radford) at the intersection of 177 and (I shit you not) 666 if you guys want to google maps it.

Still wondering how the guy didn't end up getting even a fucking ticket...
Expand all images
>> No. 20296 ID: 416e78
Find him and take a baseball bat to his car.
>> No. 20297 ID: 1a91fc
>>20296
I was actually thinking calling him and asking that he pay for the deductible followed by a Letter of Demand followed by mediation under threat of small claims court followed by small claims court. Between all of those the implied, but never written or verbalized, threat of me breaking his fucking legs with a felling axe handle.

Honestly it's not enough $$$ to even bother with going to the point of a LoD but I like being a thorn in people's sides.

In the end it isn't the small bit of damage that is ticking me off. I actually considered not fixing it but since my rates will stay the same I figured why not. It is how his insurance is most likely going to weasel out of paying. Seriously thinking about investing in a dash cam now.
>> No. 20298 ID: 1a91fc
Since my truck is going to be in the shop for a few days and I don't want to get a rental I think I'm going to use this as an excuse to buy a motorcycle. Like a Rebel or a GZ250 to commute to work on (60 some odd miles a day total).
>> No. 20300 ID: d8acd0
File 145949333773.jpg - (484.23KB , 3072x1728 , motorcycle crashed into a Chevrolet Cobalt 1.jpg )
20300
>>20298
Here's another note:
You definitely do not want to T-bone anyone on a motorcycle.
And stupid people on the road seem to act even stupider around motorcycles. They just don't see 'em!

- A motorcycle crashed into a Chevrolet Cobalt Tuesday killing the driver of the bike. The passenger on the bike and the driver of the car both suffered critical injuries.
>> No. 20327 ID: 79b400
>>20298
Do it, it's very satisfying.

Get a fuel injected one, using non ethanol fuel or treating regular gas with Stabil to keep the carburetor clean is annoying.

>>20300
Rule of thumb with a motorcycle is to make yourself as visible as possible, but ride like you're invisible. Ride like no one sees you, you have to be aggressive to live.

In fact, I have a lot of safety advice, I'll post some after I get some sleep. If you have any questions, ask away. I'll be glad to help you be a safer rider.
>> No. 20329 ID: 3270ef
>>20327

I've found that carburetors tend to be more trouble than they're worth with modern gas, especially Holleys.

EFI LYFE DAWG
>> No. 20331 ID: 79b400
>>20329
Yeah, that's why I'm wanting a motorcycle to replace the scooter.

Motorcycle would cost the same in maintenance, but I could use the highway and modern gas.

My scooter gets 80mpg, a Ninja 260 gets 60mpg and I can use regular gas which is current $1.98 here, compared to non ethanol which is currently $3.50. It'll cost me about the same in gas.

Plus, a Ninja is a very common bike, really easy to source parts. My Riva is out of production, kind of a headache to find parts.
>> No. 20332 ID: 82a3e8
>>20331
Also think about older hondas. I basically got two complete bikes (in parts) for $500 total. I could get one running with about $400-600 or so.

>>20295
The reason USAA is telling you not to hold your breath is because you did not hit the guy. You hit a pole.

I had a lady run into the back of me, clearly her fault, and her insurance wouldnt have payed if I asked them to. But there was no reason cause it was a rub mark from her bumper on my used car. whoopeee
>> No. 20333 ID: 79b400
>>20332
I love Honda CBs, I love any UJM.

But I need a cheap, simple commuter and after riding the scooter for over 7000 miles, I know exactly what I need. EFI being at the top of the list.

I'll start restoring older UJMs as a hobby when I can afford it. Right now, I just need something that will help me get to where I need to be to be able to afford paying everyone back and advance myself to a better station in life.
>> No. 20435 ID: 1a91fc
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20435
Good news!

By some miracle the other guy's insurance is paying out!
>> No. 20437 ID: 1a91fc
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20437
Going to look at/possibly buy this lady today
>> No. 20438 ID: 79b400
>>20437
Nice. What is that, an SR400?
>> No. 20441 ID: 1a91fc
File 146024845192.jpg - (75.07KB , 960x540 , 12993373_1153643794655327_2389738171668950446_n.jpg )
20441
>>20438
Couple of hundred pound heavier

'78 XS750

Engine runs, some very light surface rust on parts of the frame, brakes don't work, needs carb work (running lean), tires are dry rotted, and it probably has a whole plethora of little problems I don't know about yet.

On the bright side all of the electrical stuff is working perfectly so (knocking on wood) no hunting down little gremlins.

Gonna start with the corrosion control tomorrow and the brakes next weekend. Gonna photo document all of the maintenance and post it.

Paid $640 for it. Pretty sure I over paid but "oh well".

Called her a money pit when I told my folks I bought it...thinking about naming her Moneypenny.
>> No. 20442 ID: 82a3e8
>>20333
Good news. Turns out one of the guys ive hung out with lately is a huge bike fan and has been looking for a new bike. Hes an older guy and his first bike was a 75 cb550 and then a 75 750. My bikes are 75/76 cb360s.

I told him if he comes and teaches me how all the shit works (im literally a mechanical noob) and help me build them, he can have one as payment.

Betty is gonna be finished soon gentlemen! As shes been in hibernation for 2-3 years.
>> No. 20443 ID: 1a91fc
>>20442
Once you start you'll find out that Mechanics isn't hard but really does take a certain level of intuition and creativity.

Biggest thing to remember is always finish with a torque wrench and click twice to confirm. Even if the torque is something like 28in-oz. An engineer spent a lot of time coming up with the proper torque figure. Follow it or death can result.

Also don't buy Craftsman. They've gone to absolute shit in recent years. Walmart-tier Stanley stuff is better. I'm a tool snob and the lowest tier I'll go is Kobalt so keep that in mind.

...also if you end up needing to do a torque with a crows foot or some other attachment that lengthens the "lever" you need to do an equation to find the proper torque setting. There are calculators online for it. Seriously you can strip threads and snap bolts not accounting for that when using crows feet.
>> No. 20446 ID: 79b400
>>20443
Wanna borrow my Harbor Freight tools?
>> No. 20447 ID: 9dcda2
>>20443
> Biggest thing to remember is always finish with a torque wrench and click twice to confirm. Even if the torque is something like 28in-oz. An engineer spent a lot of time coming up with the proper torque figure. Follow it or death can result

Good advice. Also dry/wet torque is different. Find out which one the manual is talking about. If there is no torque spec, you can find out from the bolt/nut size or material you're screwing into. A 1/2" bolt into steel has a different spec than aluminum.

If you're talking a lot of shit apart, put it into baggies or plastic bins and label it.

And for fucks sake, get a manual.

> click twice to confirm

Man, one of the things I work on has the torque sequence from hell.

10 bolts in sequence.

50 ft-lb - 1 through 10
Verify 1 through 10, if any moved, keep doing passes till they don't.

Then 100, 150, 200, 250, 275.

It's a two man job, with one guy on the ladder lining up the 5 foot long wrench and holding it while the other guy pulls. It's easily 100 torquings, all overhead with a 25 lb (weight) wrench. It takes HOURS.
>> No. 20448 ID: 1a91fc
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20448
So I got the bike down from my truck today. Considering it had no brakes it was an interesting experience. Scared to death someone was gonna get crushed.

Took the seat and gas tank off. All in all no where near as much rust as I was expecting. Next weekend I'm gonna wire wheel it off and repaint with rustoleum. If I decide to keep bike for the long term I'll strip her down one winter and send the frame off for powdercoat.

Got the brake calipers off and figured out why they were fucked. NO caliper lube at all. Not on the guide pin or the backs of the pads. The pistons were also pitted and rusty as fuck. All told the cost of rebuilding the brake system is going to be $$$ but since I'm not a fuck head it will be done right with quality components. Sainless pistons, new guide pins, braided stainless lines, EBC pads, EBC rotors, and fully rebuilt master cylinders...oh yeah and I gonna fucking LUBE the damn thing. I think the previous owner may have been suicidal.

Figured out (or at least think I figured out) why the left cylinder wouldn't fire reliably. The spark plug wire for it was duct taped together. Why would you do that? Maybe to limp home but spark plug wires are CHEAP. The fuck?

Have an oil leak from where the tach cable hooks up to the head. Looked up how to fix it and honestly it makes me nervous. Fuck up even a little changing the internal seal and I'd basically have to have a machine shop fabricate me a new one as Yamaha stopped producing the part forever and ten years ago.

Oh and I got the carbs off. Took a real hard look at them and I think I'm just going to rebuild them. They probably don't need it but better safe then sorry.


>>20446
Nope. Got a full set of Kobalt and Snap-on.

Considering the price HF does make decent stuff but...in the end you'll spend less buying quality tools that last vs replacing lower quality ones. It really comes down to how often you're turning your wrench.
>> No. 20449 ID: 79b400
>>20448
I have a mix of Craftsman Evolv and Harbor Freight.

They'll definitely hold me over for now, but I'll need to upgrade when I'm ready to go to school.
>> No. 20480 ID: 1a91fc
File 146111541487.jpg - (45.24KB , 640x640 , 13055322_1159537607399279_5927123522592446612_n.jpg )
20480
So I've now found out that previous owner pulled the carb apart. He also stripped most of the screws and over torqued the fuck out of things. Oh yeah and he used a shit ton of red locktite...

Gonna have to use an extractor to get it out...also thank god for vice grips.
>> No. 20569 ID: 1a91fc
File 146212354583.gif - (7.63KB , 250x397 , terminals.gif )
20569
***UPDATES***
Had to do some repairs due to overzealous drilling out of broken screws...my fault...helicoils are great though.

Found a damaged butterfly valve. Guess what the only part I couldn't find an individual of?
Ended up having to buy someone else #2 carb that they broke a float post off of from ebay. That butterfly valve was corroded as fuck but I polished it as best I could. Honestly don't think it will ever be 100% right but right now I have no alternatives besides having one custom machined. I heard of a guy who rebuilds vintage jap bike carbs by fabricating his own parts and does excellent work. $$$ so I'm going to look into it this winter or buy a complete "re-manufactured" set of carbs off of ebay. I've heard wildly different reports on those though.

Got the carbs back together. It is raining today so won't get to test them and the new sparkplugs and wires. I'm gonna try to record video of it firing back up and post it...if it fires back up. I've never rebuilt motorcycle carbs before and I am slightly nervous.

I'm also nervous that I'm gonna find out that the problem with the #1 cylinder not firing wasn't just a broken spark plug wire. I'm not afraid of actually rebuilding the motor but finding rebuild parts (like over bore pistons) is a PITA for old jap bikes that aren't Hondas.


Completely unrelated side note. Fuck E3 sparkplugs for peening on their terminal caps. Bitches were a damn near impossible to get off. The entire point of have one that threads on is so that it can be taken off if the application demands it.
>> No. 20584 ID: 88fb2a
>If you're talking a lot of shit apart, put it into baggies or plastic bins and label it.

For the love of Jebus, dont use a sharpie on the outside of the baggie. That's what my dad did when he took the cylinder head off of my mom's truck.

When he asked me to help put it back on a few months later, there were lots of little baggies with about 3 screws in each and a black smudge on the outside where the sharpie used to be.

What a shitshow.

Personally, I use coffee cans.
>oh this one is cylinder head, since those are head bolts in there.
>oh this one is lower end since there are 10 big bolts and 8 nuts, and they all look funny.
>> No. 20585 ID: 79b400
>>20569
My buddy who rebuilds old Japanese bikes in his spare time has a garage full of parts.

I'll ask him next time I see him and see if I can scrounge you up something.
>> No. 20588 ID: 1a91fc
Got mostly everything put back together (sans brake system). Didn't start her up. I have discovered that the left petcock is broken. I was going to replace both of them eventually with manual petcocks (OEM is a teribad vacuum design) but the ones that fit are expensive...just gonna have to bite the bullet on that.
In addition the battery is toast. Gave jump starting her a try but it didn't work out. Local places want $$$ for what should be a cheap old style lead acid battery that fits. Found a sealed glass mat type online for $40 and it has good reviews and free shipping.

Got a lot done though. Start up is delayed till next week.
>> No. 20589 ID: 1a91fc
>>20585
Thanks bro!
>> No. 20615 ID: 1a90af
No luck, dude, he exhausted his Yamaha parts in the last two builds and hasn't replenished yet, he has mostly Honda, Suzuki and BMW parts right now.

He said he'll keep an eye out, though.
>> No. 20616 ID: 1a91fc
>hook up new battery
>lights turn on
>hit starter
>one revolution
>smoke from wiring harness
>lights turn off

FUCK ME!
>> No. 20617 ID: 50cd85
>>20295
>Next time someone pulls out from a stop sign in a little econo shit box just t-bone him in the driverside door and kill the motherfucker.

repeat after me! "My next vehicle will be a M37 Dodge.".
>> No. 20618 ID: 1a91fc
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20618
>>20617
>repeat after me! "My next vehicle will be a M37 Dodge."

"My next vehicle will be a M37 Dodge."
>> No. 20621 ID: 1a91fc
>>20617
I just did a quick google search.

Holy shit those trucks are affordable. I always thought vintage military vehicles were >10k even for rust buckets with seized engines.

I always intended on keeping my current truck until she is 100% dead but...well now I have an itch in the back of my mind...
>> No. 20623 ID: 1e7925
>>20618
>>20621

They are also chick magnets.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TjOsC3d6NdM
>> No. 20624 ID: 1a91fc
>>20623

I fucking love it!

Could prove useful if things with a Trekkie girl I met a little bit ago don't pan out
>> No. 20626 ID: 1e7925
>>20624
that old timer's channel has a bunch of videos about his M37, which he apparently got for a low price with very low mileage.

And about every 4th video is of him experimenting with a handload with one of his numerous, old rifles, so his channel is totally operator-related :)
>> No. 20634 ID: 818111
>>20621

You can also go nuts, and mount Michelin 11.00X16 XL radials, in lieu of the 9.00X16 bias.

First gear now becomes relevant, ride is greatly improved and the brakes become very effective. They also look "right".

They are expensive tires though, but they really do make the M37 into a very roadable critter.
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